FINALLY!!! someone shows HOW to release the parking brake...every other video has it as an after-thought in the "about" section -- "oh yeah, don't forget to release the parking brake before trying to pull the rotor off." thank you, sir...have a good night

I watched several similar videos, your video was by far the very best. I appreciate how you deliberately show the view of the parts that are being manipulated as you're describing the techniques. You just made my tasks much easier. Bless you and many thanks, Jim.

Thanks for the video. Just as a point of information, the Dodge/Ram 1500 big adapter bolts are 120 ft/lb for the rears and 130 for the fronts. The caliper pins are 22 ft/lbs rear and 24 front. It is also good to examine the piston boots for tears and if the piston is excessively hard to push back it may be rusted and your new pads will wear out real quick from pistons that don't retract I just rebuilt mine, replacing a rusty piston and a couple of boots and piston seals

I fought with it yesterday and this morning and finally got it. Thanks

I wish I had watched your great video before. Now I have to jack up car, remove tire and adjust e brake. Thanks Very well done.

TY for the very thorough description! These videos are better than the auto manuals since having also benefit of visual and since the manuals don't include any troubleshooting regarding repair mistakes made by 1st time diy repair people.

Got to love all the haters and their criticism! Did you guys take time out of your day to upload a video to help someone out? I doubt it because all you do is troll. Thanks for the vid, helped me out!

Excellent video. I could not figure out how to release emergency brake to slide rotor off. I had to use B f h and it took about an hour a piece. Then I have to put the brake shoe retaining Hardware back together cuz pop the part on the way out. Wish I would have seen this video 5 hours ago. Timing is everything. But now I know and I can tell others. Thank you

Thanks man. I’ve been feeling uneasy about damaging anything on this job

Thanks, that is exactly what is happening to my rear rotors. Now I just have to find the adjustment hole. Great Video, it helped a lot. I could not figure out what was going on at first, but now I know.

Awesome video! I didn’t know about the bolt hole to pry the rotor off the hub. So thanks for the knowledge and what could have been several hours of accidentally taking apart my E-brake components through the grommet hole

Thanks for the video, I am so glad my Jeep Grand Cherokee has the parking brake adjuster from behind the splash shield - no need to rotate the drum and hat rotor before loosening. Yup as other posters noted, this step is too easy to forget when working the rear axles....think I forgot once and must have wrestled with the rotor for an hour before I remembered about that funny star adjuster to relax the parking brake shoes from the inside of the drum surface. Woo hoo!

I have found if the parking brake pads are hanging up a bit, you can SPIN the rotor as you pull it off and the sliding friction is a LOT less than just trying to pull it off by sliding/rocking back and forth pulling the rotor off as you did here. The difference is amazing. Unless the inside of rotor is really grooved (from a parking brake?) you won't need to even use those removal bolts in the holes unless it's to break the rust loose from the large main hole in the rotor and the hub it fits onto. Still, just break the hub loose with the two bolts just an eighth of an inch to a quarter inch, take them out, then try to spin the rotor as you pull it off and it should come right off. The first spin and pull might get the rotor most of the way off the studs and the next spin and pull will have the rotor sitting in your lap. I found that out by accident when I was checking to see if the hub was spinning freely after putting the parking brake off and on a couple times thinking that might break the shoes free of the rotor. If you can spin the hub pretty freely, just yank it off at the same time and it will slip right off when rocking backing and forth and pulling fails dismally. This would probably work on a grooved drum with drum brakes as well. You may not even have to back off on the shoes to pull it off. It's certainly worth a try before going to more effort. Thanks for providing this video. It's a MAJOR help to anyone doing this. Use a piece of wood to spin the hub or put the lug nuts on to protect the threads.

Glad it helped - and thanks for the feedback Mariel.

Great video, tackling my daughters 09 town and country next weekend to replace pads and rotors. Now I will be abke to do it without offending my neighbors with hundreds of curse words...

Thanks Mr. BackYard. I've done a few dozen front brakes and a couple of rear but never where the rotors were locked on. Until yesterday. Seeing the adjustment screw out of it's 'natural habitat' was helpful. Always learn a couple things watching a mechanic get busy.

Awesome video, thanks! Although, I wouldn't put those screws into the new rotor, especially with the amount of rust you experience there. They're just to hold the rotor on while on the assembly line. Instead, thread two lugs back on to hold it in place while you adjust the e-brake shoes and put the caliper on. The wheel holds it on ultimately.

I want to thank you for posting this great video! I was at wits end trying to get the parking brake to release so I can replace the hub until I came across your very informative concise video. It goes to show car brake technology don't change much at all just the material used. Great job!

I will be looking for more videos, I hope you keep making them. Two Trump up.

I spent 2 h to remove rear rotor from Dodge Grand Caravan. I used hammer to hit it. I used not good words until finished. But, finally I replace a rotor, caliper and brake pads. Today I did this by 10 min. Ax in opposite site and hammer at other was not so good, but, perfect. Greetings to Dodge engineers for so stupid design. PS: withing 19 y we did not use emergency brake.