I followed this video to a t. I forgot to lube the synchros before installing I also put the pin in backwards that holds the shift lever in place, could either of these issues causing no engagement of first third and fifth gear

@RoadReadywithMosesLudel

8 ай бұрын

When shift rails do not move in the right sequence or cannot move, there will be no gear engagement. Shift rail detent balls, springs and interlock plugs must be in their correct positions. If the balls, the barrel shaped plugs or springs are not in the right position, the shift rails will either bind or not work the gears correctly. If you are confident that those parts were installed correctly, the problem could be at the shift lever or shift tower. The lever must be able to move freely. The shift lever pin(s) must face correctly. Make sure the lever can move freely and that a pin is not binding the lever or blocking the lever's movement. Be sure that the shift lever and shift arm engage with the shift rail slots. In neutral, all slots should be open to accept the shift arm. Make sure the shift rails are aligned for neutral before installing the shift arm, shift tower and lever...After verifying that the shift rails align right with the shift arm, with the shift tower and lever in position, try to shift the gears...It's possible that the dry synchronizer rings are stuck to their hubs and dragging. That generally does not create an issue once the transmission lubricates while spinning in neutral. This lubricates the parts...Let us know what you find and how you remedy the problem.

While rebuilding my ax15 I found that the new 2nd gear needle bearing has a gap that looks like a needle is missing. Is this how the new needle bearings are made today?

@RoadReadywithMosesLudel

9 ай бұрын

While this may seem strange, it's necessary to have a split cage with a gap between the cage halves. This helps eliminate risk of needles binding or skidding. There is just enough cage end play to allow for normal backlash without binding. This is "normal" and not a defect. Your concern here is that bearing contact surfaces are not worn and that the shaft is within specification for radial runout. Think of the cages as "spacers" between each needle roller. The cage keeps rollers apart and reduces risk of binding. There are many transmissions that do not use caged rollers; they instead load needle rollers next to each other, so close that the needles stay in place by "keystone effect". Aisin engineered these AX15 caged bearings with larger needles spaced apart by the cages.

what tools were used to install to press fifth gear, Synchro assembly hub. did you use a synchronizer hub seal installer and transmission adapter?

@RoadReadywithMosesLudel

9 ай бұрын

Your approach would work. I often improvise with a deep-set impact socket and sand-filled plastic mallet when an OEM sleeve tool is unavailable. If the socket is not deep enough to clear the countershaft on an assembly like this, my time honored approach is to make a driver/sleeve from simple black (plumbing) pipe. I find pipe with the desired inside diameter. If making a "permanent" tool, I weld a piece of 3/16" or 1/4" thick flat plate at one end of the pipe. Visualize a sleeve that safely clears the countershaft and splines in this case. Choose a pipe I.D. best suited. I prefer a sand filled plastic mallet to protect parts and tools. This is plenty of wallop, and not much force is needed in this installation. (The blocker ring comes off with a simple two-bolt, slotted bar type, screw stem puller.) It should not take excessive force to tap this assembly into place. Black pipe yields some, and that helps protect parts...I have factory seal and parts drivers. Additionally, under my shop press is a box full of black pipe sleeves of various lengths and inside diameters. They are quick to make and handy to keep. For plastic parts with a lighter fit, PVC pipe can sometimes work.

I have lost the 1st gear thrust washer locating pin and can't find one for sale from any parts supplier. Is it acceptable to fabricate one from tool steel? I measure it to be 6.55x4.6 mm (LxW). Would guess it is hardened so I will quench & temper after turning one from stock.

@RoadReadywithMosesLudel

2 ай бұрын

Before attempting to fabricate this piece, try McMaster-Carr or MSC Direct. I find chromium ball bearings (close tolerance, properly hardened), machinery parts and industrial items like the part you need at these sources. Beyond that, Advance Adapters (phone 1-800-350-2223 and ask for tech support) is a direct dealer for Aisin and offers complete, brand new AX15s. They may have some parts on hand or, more likely, transmission cores or used parts like the pin you need.

@GTechComputer

2 ай бұрын

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Appreciate your advice, sadly no luck. I found many components somewhat close in size from McMaster but at that point we may as well turn from new stock and go through the motions, we shall see in time how it holds up. Follow up question, at the shift tower now, installing restrictor pins. One feels a lot stiffer than the other to compress. Do you know which side this one goes on? The overhaul manual does not differentiate. I would guess 5-R is stiffer, either from lack of use, or for user comfort shifting in usual driving conditions?

@RoadReadywithMosesLudel

2 ай бұрын

Another idea on the missing locating pin: Look for a similar dowel pin. Automotive machine shops and other applications create a market for replacement dowel pins. Sources for dowel pins by size include Fastenal. I looked at their website and found a lengthy sizing list at www.fastenal.com/product/Fasteners/Pins/Dowel%2520Pins?query=dowel+pins&categoryId=600111. (Your measurement is very close to 3/16" U.S. or 4.78mm. Fastenal shows steel and stainless, U.S. and metric sizing. I would prefer a hardened steel for this application; you could inquire about hardness and the alloy.) Also, and simpler yet, the mainshaft pin is Mopar Part Number 83506008 ("Mainshaft Pin"). I ran the number in a search and immediately turned this up: www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-pin-mainshaft~83506008.html. The part is still in the Mopar system and not very expensive...Regarding the tower, your theory makes sense, as we can feel this during shifts to reverse or 5th. If so, the design would reduce the risk of accidentally dropping the shifter into reverse instead of fourth gear or fifth/overdrive instead of third gear...Make certain you have the interlock springs, pins, balls and plugs in order at the shift rails. This part of the assembly is crucial for the right shift fork and rail interaction.