This was a job, I do recommend incorporating other fixes while the transmission and engine are separated. Let me know if you have any questions regarding this repair.

@herrerambp

Жыл бұрын

Would it be possible to also do the oil pan gasket during this job or does the engine have to be removed? 1995 EB 351w

@TheFixTech

Жыл бұрын

Yes, it would be best to reconnect the transmission to the block and secure with bolts, then lift engine off the motor mounts, stick wooden blocks between the engine and motor mounts. With everything else out of the way the oil pan will slide out. I regretted not doing so, but had to complete the video. For the 351 you will have to remove the upper intake plenum to lift engine high enough.

@Jacksongamma

Жыл бұрын

@@TheFixTechAlso, if I’m not mistaking; You need to remove the transmission shift linkage and even jack the transmission up slightly. The shroud will get removed as well. You have to be very careful when lifting the motor and keep good attention on the transmission cooler lines that you don’t over flex them or interfere. Once the bolts are off the pan you can slide it out only so much. Most people typically have to remove the oil pump that way the pan can slide out. It really is a disaster of a job and design. Great videos, keep up the good work.

@Jacksongamma

Жыл бұрын

And yes, as you said with the 351 most people have no hope debolting exhaust. What many people have to unfortunately do is cut out the exhaust that runs under the pan and then either flange/clamp it back together. Or if you’re a good welder by all means lol! Some people take the whole manifold off… good luck with that out east.. I don’t even want to imagine how many bolts would just snap.

I wish my truck was that clean underneath

Excellent video ! Very clear and concise instructions without all of the fluff that a lot of other videos have. I also appreciate the time you took to have well placed lighting with steady video and very clear audio. Nice job 👍

@dn-kg6rb

Жыл бұрын

Also, can you please add the information for the torque converter that you used in the video ?

@TheFixTech

Жыл бұрын

I updated the description with a link to the torque converter. This is for the E4OD transmission, it is a 2000rpm (high stall) which is a factory replacement. Interchange part number F59HS

Thank you for making this video! You showed everything with details that could help anyone looking to do this job. 👍🏻

These videos are great! Love them… but now I need you to get a 95’ f150, 4.9L, short wheel base, 2wd… and I can watch exactly how to do anything I want to tackle on the truck my sons and I are tinkering on, lol… thanks for the videos dude!

You've got theses how to videos down man. The right amount of instruction and wrenching. I appreciate the time you take for editing. Great job and much appreciation.

@TheFixTech

7 ай бұрын

Thank you.

Thank you for another great how-to video! One safety note for those watching, make sure to chalk your wheels and engage parking brake when doing this kind of work. I've made the mistake myself of getting caught up in the process of fixing a driveshaft and forgetting this important step. Having a vehicle roll with you under it is no fun. Your videos have been very helpful and well done.

@TheFixTech

6 ай бұрын

Great tip!

😊😊😊....Dude, you are the Best...Like others have said...So concise, even a Caveman can do it...👍👍

@TheFixTech

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@ToyManFlyer1100

Жыл бұрын

@@TheFixTech Much oblige...

cant wait for u to do the oil pan gasket

recently bought a 96 bronco and I have almost all your bronco videos saved lol thank you so much

@TheFixTech

6 ай бұрын

Glad to help

Excellent Video!

@TheFixTech

Ай бұрын

Thank you very much!

I can't wait to see how you remove the valve covers. I'm literally on the same boat and pace in terms of restoration! Great job!

@TheFixTech

Жыл бұрын

Thanks, I will also be incorporating other fixes in that video. Coming soon.

Perfect from beginning to end.

@TheFixTech

Жыл бұрын

Thank you

All your videos are top tier and so informative. I️ have a 91 with the same drivetrain I’ll have to do this to. Thank you for the great for content 👍

Buen video amigo lo mejor que han sacado en sellos para resolver el problema del cuello del siguenal

Awesome video and very well detailed. Personally I would stay AWAY from the Teflon Seals and use a Rubber Seal with a Repair Sleeve. Teflon seals are notorious for cracking and degrading fast due to them being a much harder/stiffer material and they also like to gouge the crank shaft over time which is why 90% of the time you need a repair sleeve is due to the teflon seals eating into the crank.

Ford notoriously for main seal leaks one has to do with excess main bearing clearance and the seals getting hard.

Excellent. Going to change the oil pan gasket while I'm down there too. And the 4wd engagement motor. Mines iffy, especially in Winter when I need it most. Fords. Gotta luv 'em! Subscribed.

Nice video! Well done, you always do an outstanding job!

@TheFixTech

Жыл бұрын

Thank you.

@mjencristo

Жыл бұрын

Man you make it look easy!!!!! But it’s not!!!!! 😅😅😅😅

Super clean as always.

@TheFixTech

Жыл бұрын

Appreciate that

Excellent video. Thanks for your time and instruction on this.

Great video, thanks.

Another great video! Exactly what i need to do but I'm so freaked out about all the things that can go wrong. ( rusted bolts, broken books, stripped threads, ect...) Your video is giving me the confidence tho. Could you possibly do a video on troubleshooting intermittent stalling? I can't figure it out. Thanks again!

@TheFixTech

Жыл бұрын

Usually the intermittent stalling will be caused by a bad egr system. I do have a video on that system. Also could be bad fuel pump and ecm relays, replace both.

Thanks so much for the videos man

@TheFixTech

6 ай бұрын

My pleasure!

Nice Job.

@TheFixTech

5 ай бұрын

Thanks for the visit

Can you do a video of deleting all of the emissions canisters/ system? I have a 91 and want to remove all of that. But curious to see how you bypass the electronics and hardliners into the back of the engine. Also would help to clear out space in the engine bay of unnecessary parts.

@TheFixTech

4 ай бұрын

My choice of preference to delete those hard liners is to upgrade the heads to ones that do not have those ports, otherwise you can simply plug the holes with a thermactor plug. If the stock engine is to be used then I do recommend keep the original emissions system for best MPGs and stock performance. Otherwise the best way to delete any emissions is to remove the components and tune the ecm.

@druss2535

4 ай бұрын

@@TheFixTech thanks for the reply. They don’t make any replacement emissions parts!

Is dropping the trans easier than lifting out the engine? The 5.8 in my 96 Bronco has good compression but has some pretty bad oil and coolant leaks. I have worked through several vacuum leaks (P1071/1074) but it still has a misfire in cyl 4, so I pulled both manifolds and having the injectors cleaned as we discussed. When it runs right, I was considering pulling the engine to replace the rear main, oil pan gasket, freeze plugs, exh manifolds, and hoses. Thanks

@TheFixTech

6 ай бұрын

I would pull the engine out if you need to seal engine/coolant leaks as there are some freeze plugs that can be hard to reach. The trans does come out very smoothly if you are using a decent trans jack (like the one shown in the video). Make sure you have the correct ignition module for your truck.

Damn dude you are an expert mechanic props! Realistically is this a job that an average wrencher could do?

@TheFixTech

6 ай бұрын

With the proper tools it is easier than it looks. The transmission jack works wonders and these trucks can fit dinosaurs under them

What size of engine does this broco have, my Mecerury and crown vic both have the 302s and ive replaced both rear rear seals on both cars, but i see you didnt put any thread sealer on you flywheel bolts when you reinstalled your flywheel, you should of done this, of as they are kniwn leak from the main crank once theyve been removed, great video, ✌️👍

@TheFixTech

9 ай бұрын

Thanks for the advise, this engine is the 5.8 351 Windsor.

90 Bronco here I bought it and had a mechanic do an engine overhaul, 5 years later I had a mechanic do a transmission overhaul he told me I had a 2 piece rear main seal?😮

is this a good time to install headers?

so the teflon rear main seal installer comes off after it slides onto the rear of the crankshaft. Never used one of these style. New to me.

@TheFixTech

11 ай бұрын

Yes, it is very important to use the plastic installer sleeve to slide the Teflon seal into place. It is also recommended not to remove the seal from the sleeve prior to installation as the seal will deform.

It's metal on metal, what prevents oil from leaking between the new sleeve and the crankshaft??

@TheFixTech

7 ай бұрын

It’s a press on fit, must be tapped into place and does form a solid seal. I have used these a few times with no issues. The Teflon seal is a good choice as well.

Did you bring the trans and transfer case down as one?

@TheFixTech

Жыл бұрын

Yes, both together as a unit

I forgot to mention it’s a 5.8 351W

I hear a tiny squeal i think is coming from my flexplate. I hear it while idling and going below 20. Can i spray any lubricant on flexplate? 93 bronco new engine and rebuilt transmission 3 years ago

@TheFixTech

8 ай бұрын

Is it an automatic or manual? If manual it is usually the throw out bearing. If an auto, remove the flexplate/torque converter cover, if the squeak is more prominent then torque converter would be a suspect. Check trans fluid for any burnt smell or shavings.

@dirtyeric2

8 ай бұрын

@@TheFixTech its auto im missing the flexplate lower cover. Do you have email i can send video of it?

Sir were do you live in in Dallas, I need your mechanic services if you are in my area… I have literally no time to work on my truck.

That only took 20 minutes, it would take me 2 weeks