Hi Eric the car guy I just wanted to let you know you that you helped me a lot while I was in jail , I had access to a learning tablet that had a whole bunch of educational videos of different types of jobs one them was yours , had all kinds of videos of how to fix different things

You're still great at what you do, regardless of what everyone says. Every video I've watched has helped me extremely with my issues. Thanks for taking the time to do what you do!

honestly , as an apprentice, I find myself often referring to your videos for a second opinion on fixes, and things that go wrong with my own vehicles, often you've been more informative and accessible than even the journeymen i work under. Being a young tech is a rough start .. not an easy world to work in. having someone who knows what they are talking about to reference makes a huge difference. so thanks for that man.

@420mustang20071

8 жыл бұрын

Hi in uuikkjbvb

Had the same exact noise this past weekend after, and only after, changing out a cracked cylinder head and 2000 Cherokee. I was helping friends do the work to save them some money. They elected to use the old spark plugs which were well used & AMA (against my advice). The noise was a "knock" like a rod rather than a "click"like sticking lifters I'd heard Before. Using a stethoscope I mostly convinced myself the noise was high and near cyl #1 or #2 but the tone of the noise, the location and the absence of the noise before pulling the old head didn't add up. I was stymied. I suggested some Marvel Mystery Oil and a trip to a professional mechanic. My friend, a novice mechanic, decided to go ahead and change the spark plugs when he got home. The noise stopped! Don't know if it was a bad plug or a bad connection to the coil bar which caused a firing problem which caused the noise. Can't explain it because I am not experienced/smart enough; but, the noise went away.

would have been a great candidate for scannerdanner. He would have set some piezos on the engine, captured data and graphed it to find out not only the noise location via a series of captured db levels but also tell you what other events were occuring at the exact timeline. ie .. the piston travel positions and engine timing events. damn

Wow Eric. You hit all parameters answering the comments on this one. Good job.

I have come across a few of the later Jeep 4.0's that had the same noise. In all of these cases, I found that the cylinder head cracked, which caused coolant to flow into the oil. And as you know, it doesn't take long before bearings and anything else lubricated by oil to get destroyed or wiped by coolant contamination.

Balancer hitting the timing cover? sounds like the jeep i just changed a balancer on

Two Pistons Skirts is the Answer from my personal experience. When the 4.0 over heats its common for the two front pistons to warp as their skirts break apart. My WJ when it first over heated i pulled over waited my WJ said it was normal temperature again. couple miles later as i was driving it started to over heat again then i started to hear a knock noise appear as i pulled over i lost power waited an hour turned it back on it starts and runs but knocks so i towed it home. Took my Valve cover off nothing, my Engine's Head nothing so, i checked my pistons and only the first two were damaged. Replace the two and there is no longer a knocking.

@jasonyant2241

3 жыл бұрын

Water pump

I love these re: videos Eric keep doing them !!!

If the noise was coming from cracked or loose flex plate the noise would change ALOT by putting the trans in drive or reverse while the engine was at idle speed.

I was tring to figure out mine and saw your video, I noticed someone said it might be flex plate , and shure enough it was, I got under there and that was it.

thanks dude, all your time and effort showing good info for amatuer (shadetree) mechanics like myself is appreciated, ignore the idiots that spend more time being critical than posting anything useful.

My 4 L has a broken piston skirt and It got worse over 3 years and now I have to fix it , however I only want to fix the one as the rest are still Ok, The Jeep is almost done so what say all you Jeep owners? Should I just change the one?

you the man eric! it's great you do these kinds of videos for your fans.

I've got a 96 2 door with a 5 speed and 2 wheel drive. It may not be able to crawl over rocks but it's driven over something hardly any other vehicles have... over half a million miles of highway. It gets around 20 MPG and after all those miles and over 16 years I STILL love driving the thing!

Had one same noise up high in the motor but had two noises went for lifters look to see if anything there turned out other noise way piston

my hats off to ya eric. you have to be a smart dude to do what you do. after reading through my quest's service manual and dealing with the O2 sensor problems and such, it's VERY complicated. There is a lot going on inside a car, and they are very impressive in design and function. you're very good at what you do

Eric, one thing I found out about Chrysler products is something I have never seen with any other make. If you re-use the torque converter bolts you are supposed to grind a thread out of each bolt. They don't give enough depth of thread in the holes and a used bolt will bottom out. They aren't TTY bolts and can be reused but must be ground. I also have in my shop right now a 4.0 that has a shot to hell timing chain with tons of play but no driveability issues, another thing I have never seen in anything but this particular engine. The timing chain failed due to heavy sludge, which was loads of fun to remove. Love your vids and what you do, but I do realize that maybe you aren't as deep into the 4.0 just like I am not in deep with knowledge on import cars. Thought I would throw some info your way. Obviously without the engine available for an autopsy we will never have conclusive proof what did fail.

All Jeep 6 in Line 4.0 L Engine Noise is coming from the Pistons Zuiger when the zuiger is moving form left to right . I Recommend to Replace all Piston and Zuiger kit in all Cylinder. The Noise starts in the Cyl 5 and 6. The noise is coming from the bottom of the part in the back. I hope this will resolve your problem.

i wonder if its just a Straight six cylinder thing i have a Trail Blazer that sounds not as nosy but there telling me its a lifter issue so i got the blazer in the shop where i got the car and there going to replace all the lifters

I had this happen to my toyota 22r truck last week. It started off as a sticky valve which explained the reason why it went away and then came back as described in this video. The sticking valve was eventually hit by a piston and kept the valve stuck open. The car wouldn't start after. No compression so it just turned and turned. The tapping could be the piston hitting the valve.

Hey Eric it's William from MustangMedic, thanks for the AC video we are deep into it on a 69 Mustang.

@779069

3 жыл бұрын

The peoples journalist! hahaha What a coincidence seeing you here

Wrist pin or broken piston skirt are VERY common and sound like that.

good re eric.......thanks for posting......hope we find out what happened to the 4l....have a good day sir

hi 1- i have jeep xj 2000 modle i have noise in the engine on the high speed what to check 2. what is the best oil to use in the car regards

The GM HFV6 engines also throw a code if the timing chain stretches , there is a software update which can be a temporary fix for them , but i think it's better to replace them , and there's more than one as they are a multi cam V6 , so it is not cheap , but some dealers will meet part of the cost , m y own dealer does them for $1500 NZ Ruble's

My AMC Comanche made that exact noise at 260,000 miles. It also was running fine one day and then sounded like that the next. The engine threw a rod less than 50 miles later before I could have it looked at.

Oh, and when I replaced the engine in my 1980 Pinto, I did pull the oil pan off the old one, and sure enough, there was 3 pieces of the #2 piston in the pan, broke off at the oil ring. Strange thing was one of the cracks was very shiny, indicating that it had been cracked for a very long time. The rest of the pieces had very sharp crystallized edges showing a rapid progression once it decided it's time was up. The block was too deeply scored, so got a used engine from a mustang.

So what was it? Valve? Lifter? Bearing?

owning a jeep with a 4.0 myself, i have done some research. those 4.0's generally wear out right around 200000 miles. mainly its lifter problems, but it is usually followed by a lower engine knock pretty quickly.

low end knocks like that are usually a main or rod bearing, I had a similar problem with the neighbors 99' Ford F150, ended up pulling the engine and replacing the main and rod bearings.....its just as you pointed out Eric, you can only do as much as your friend or as in my case your neighbor will let you and how much they want to spend......

I tell you what I have same thing I just bought it yesterday and there was a little bit of a ticking but not like a little lifter noise little bitty one and now it sounds like just like the one you had in your video

I have a 4.0 and its making some noise coming from the top end. (I think) but you can't hear it at idle and only when you rev it. I'm so lost.

@billythompson2910

10 жыл бұрын

Oh damn, I have the exact same problem right now! Did you ever figure it out?! It was apparently real low on oil and I floored the gas while it was cold to heat the car up faster (stupid I know, still feel like an idiot) and this noise started at the higher RPMs Filled it up with oil and let it warm up for a while. Noise is still there (sounding like it's from the top end) but like you said only when I rev it. Did you have any luck? I would really appreciate the help. This car is my only source of transport.

2 of 2 From what I'm told, the head cracks and warps ever so slightly , and it puts stress on the lifters. We since then replaced our engine, $2500 later, and our jeep is back on the road. The engine had 86,000 miles on it, and the jeep has 192,000 on it. The reason why I'm saying a stuck lifter is because they wouldn't move at all afterwards. But after it cooled down, and was towed to the shop it sorta ran again.

22mpg huh? is that idling or when not running?

Great video's Eric. Thank you

Any chance of a cracked flywheel? I've heard a similar noise on a 5.3 Chevrolet that was a cracked flywheel.

It was either bad lifters or connecting rod bearings.

Hello from a mechanic in Denmark... I think it sounds like the connetion rod bearings at the crankshaft... Great videos.. Keep up the good work... :D

I studied auto mechanics while into prison on Sweden for 6 years. Your videos were and are inspiring. Thank you. This why my English may be terrible, I’m sorry! Been work hard and studying for license and shop! With that said to you, thanks you!

please i hope no one cancels injectors individually by simply unplugging them!! Chrysler uses positive side switching. for those who do not know what that means; if you simply unplug and injector while the jeep is on there will be what is called a power surge in that electrical system which has a very HIGH potential to burn out your computer. the only safe way to unplug these injectors is to turn off the vehicle and wait a few minuets. then unplug one injector, and start the vehicle again to proceed with the test. you must turn off the car completely each time you want to unplug, or plug in an injector.

Eric there is one more thing about ticking noise if it sounds like it is the lifters but to soft you should do a drop off the oil pan and hand crank the engine so you can see with a flash light up to the piston if the piston is worn on it's side which is a common issue when you run this jeep thru the mud and get dirt into the engine block. It works like sand paper and so the ticking comes from the piston been worn and each top dead center when you go from push to pull it tick's the cylinder from one side to the other side. Just as a FYI for the future for you and others to know. Over time it creates a blow by to the point of engine blow up or total power loss. If in the early early stage you find out it's only the cylinder which need's to be replaced. Later you need to machine the block for bigger pistons with a machine shop.

Cars break it happens. Your a good guy Eric keep up the great work.

well I can tell you what have same thing happened to me 10 min ago so where do you thanking I should start

@eric mabe the knock sensor went?

There's not enough zinc and phosphorous additives in modern engine oils to properly lubricate flat tappet engines (of which the 4.0L inline 6 Jeep engine is). The engine ticking noise is a worn out cam lobe hitting the bottom of the lifter because of excessive clearance. If the proper additives were in the oil since the engine was new ( and at every oil change, of course), there would be less likelihood of worn out cam lobes, thus ticking. I figured that as soon as the customer received his Jeep back from Eric, and a short time later the engine seized, the lifter jammed the cam and stopped the cam shaft from spinning.

@JohnDoe-yj5ng

10 жыл бұрын

There are a few options to this problem. New or rebuilt engine swap ( which is expensive), or, if you have the time and money, new camshaft, timing chain, lifters, rocker arms and valves. And always use Shell Rotella 15W 40. It has plenty of the zinc/phosphorous additives needed for these type of engines.

@justindent3813

9 жыл бұрын

John Doe In my opinion, most modern oils do still have zddp in them. Enough to satisfy a stock engine (Eric posted his video at valvoline, this is a great addendum to my opinion). The 4.0 doesn't have a high lift or duration camshaft as it is, and it doesn't rev that high. I don't think, especially at those miles, that would have caused it. Also, if you have good oil pressure, running thicker oil, such as a 15w40, may actually hurt the engine in the long run, considering your clearances have to be tight to still achieve good oil pressure. Trying to push thicker than spec oil through those still tiny gaps could strain the pump, among other things. Not trying to argue with you at all, just stating my opinion/what I believe.

I'm a old-school mechanic it's a very simple fix for that noise before disassembled the cylinder head you must #1 drained 2 quarts of oil then add 1 gallon of diesel let it run for an half hour then drain all the oil with the diesel #2 remove the cylinder head replace all lifters and lifter rods #3 install everything back put Ina cheap oil 🛢 filter put 5w30 oil 1 can of mineral oil Let it run for 1 hour drain the oil get a good oil filter good oil and the ending will be very satisfying I personally have rebuild plenty of these 4.0 they are one of must strongest engines out there 😀 mark my words

I have a similar noise but more from the oil pan area? Any thoughts?

It's a shame u have to explain yourself. I get this sometimes. A bit like "since you serviced my car my air freshener doesn't smell nice anymore"

Well it did, but a SPOA lift with wheel spacers and 33s fixed that quite easily, and the sidekicks (my toy of choice) fixed it because the top was narrower than the bottom unlike the Sammy. I live in the south and I see rust-free ones on Craigslist all the time. But they are pretty expensive. But think of what it's used for. It's a miracle they lasted this long when they're mudbogging and plowing snow and fording rivers all the time. My 89 Sidekicks got 34,400 original miles.

Yes you can hear the rod knock clearly on the video. And it engine later seized up confirmed the case. I just hope the Eric can get the Jeep pulled back in again so the can show the views how a sprung bearings in a 4 litre looks like.

oil pump died is one thing or chain jump cus jeeps timing chain wear oddly depending on the driver

Jeez, Eric... Just read through the comments... Didn't realize there were so many experts out there, I feel for you. Keep up the good work and don't forget to clean out your B.S. filter =D

@csn6234

7 жыл бұрын

You are guilty of your first comment.

@L4ND.SH4RK

7 жыл бұрын

***** very clever, took long enough

How can i message u a video and maybe find out what mine is. Ithappens when im driving or stopped. Acand heat can be on or off. Same with radio

your totaly right about it not being a timing chain every loose or slipped timing chain I have seen has had a cam code in the pcm. I work at a chevy dealer and the timing chains on the 3.6 engines like in the camaro and traverse and acadia are known for stretching and what tells me they are bad is a cam sensor code .

so Eric the car guy show how to tear down a jeep grand cherokee 2001 4.0 to install lifters & camshaft .saw someone remove front end just want to do the fan& shrod radiator pulleys etc of course exhaust man .tell me whats up!

Hey eric my dad back when had that problem he changed the intake throttle body went bad. He changed it it fixed.

i have a 2001 suburban with a 5.3 liter v8 it has 267000 miles and has developed lower pressure and some noise multiple people have told me they used 15w40 oil with lucas stabilizer and noise went away and presure improved, whats your idea on this? thanks

i got a ford focus lx 2005 with a engine rattle when it idles, i put my hand on the cam cover thing and it stops, how do i titan it or fix it? thanks Eric, Stay Dirty

Any news on the engine?

Probably piston skirt.. the 4.0 was redesigned in 99.. they changed the piston castings, and they were bad. also changed the head casting at some point they tend to develop a small crack in the coolant space, and bleed coolant into the oil under the valve cover between cly 5-6. The 4.0 was a bullet proof engine, but 99-04 has the potential for serious issues

1 of 2 One thing I have found out is that these jeeps have chronic intermittent overheating issues due to the electric radiator fan connectors. I fixed that in ours, and it hasn't Overheated again. But about 4 weeks later, the engine let go. The rapping got louder, and changed noises, then died completely. The damage was already done. The cause after taking apart the top end was the head cracked between cylinders 2 and 3.

Bent valves? (while I'm here are tappets the same as lifters? ala, noisy tappets/lifters) Would a compression/leak down test have shown anything Eric?

Is this a non priority main oil system? If so wouldn't the engine have good oil pressure up top, but none/restricted oil flow on the bottom?

Suzuki, the Samuri? Does Suzuki have the HP for serious offroad? My 5.2 runs like a watch, no lifter noise, oil consumption, etc. Whatever the brand they all need attention eventually but yes some have more problems than others --I have NO regrets buying my ZJ, i have it the way i want it now, amazing in snow and that's why i own it, my Hyundai gets great gas mileage so the Jeep is mainly a winter machine

Had this very same thing happen a few months ago. Jeep engine quiet and running good to Jeep engine knocking and clattering. A BIG mystery for quite some time. THEN over breakfast one morning the owners son mentioned that he knew the Jeep was Toast! and long before it started making noise. Said even he had tried to save it. Said he noticed a DROP of oil in the school parking lot. Proudly stated he had picked up a can of stop leak and poured it into the engine. What kind of stop leak? Slime

A jeep at work has a deep clunk when the lady starts it. Could this be her oil low?

I have a 2003 Jeep Cherokee that has a ticking noise on top of the motor but quiets down after I run it

i hope you find out what coursed this, if u do plz share it with us ^^

HELP. I have the same thing going on now. But i have a check engine light on. Ran the codes and it says i have the numbers 2 & 4 cylinders miss firing. Could it be bad plugs?

Hi Eric! I have a 99 Monte with a 3.8 V6, when I start it up it ticks very loudly and then goes away when it warms up, should I be concerned? cold in MN Jeremy

@justinp8946

8 жыл бұрын

very typical in alot of gm vehicles probably just lifters or piston slab

My question is can I install a six cylinder engine in a mahindra bolero Jeep? I am very much keen to install British leyland 0.370 six cylinder naturally aspirated diesel. Please reply me quickly I am anxiously waiting for your reply

Hello, I have sound in my engine when i exhilarate the speed is it possible to send you the sound and get your feedback?

What's a power balance ?

Most last for a while but i have seen a few that passed on, too bad with that one as the body looked clean on that GC, could have been a good candidate for a NEW motor-- i have a 96 ZJ 5.2 with 130,000, runs like new

Buddys jeep wj simlar issue it was number 6 cylinder broken piston skirt if you would of used a micro camera to check out pistons u may have caught it in time

I HAVE SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH A CHEROKEE SPORT AND WAS TOLD IT WAS THE STARTER.. .MY STARTER SOUNDS OVERWORKING ON CRANKING..GOING TO CHECK/CHANGE MY STARTER..SHIMS..?? SOUNDS LIKE YOUR PROBLEM STARTED AFTER STARTER CHANGE TOO.....??? HAS 40 # OIL PRESSURE..

hey eric, I am helping my neighnbour tomorrow ripping out a 4.7 motor out of a dodge ram, its the same motor and its doing the same noise, the noise was appently coming from the bottom of the engine, any tips on removing this engine??

I wish you could have examined the engine, a friends relative had about a 2000 GC 6 cyl. and it sounded like that, you will never guess what it was??? One piston disintegrated and the rod was bouncing off the cylinder wall, i mean TOTALLY gone, i helped pull the head off, i never saw something like that-- my buddy should have taken a compression test, it was running on FIVE cylinders-- he thought initially it was lifters but the sound was too deep

Please help me with this problem electric Vibration Cherokee Patriot 2008

Eric, lo que aprendo con tus vídeos es enorme y nunca dudaría de tus diagnósticos así que no le des importancia a los sabios que comentan sin saber la historia de ese auto. Greetings from Argentina, you're the best by far. I'll dare you to use the google translator! solo quería que sepas que veo todos tus vídeos a 10000km de distancia!

How many miles did he have on the engine?

Great summation and as a retired Tech I agree , you cannot just go ahead and repair as the cost issue can be the key, and viability of repair, your call proved correct. It would be real nice to find out what did happen internally !

did it spin a main or rod thats what it sound like

hey i have a 2001 dodge intrepid 3.2 and i have bad cv axels but before i replace them i have a knocking or pinging sound when my car gets hot (about half my temp gauge). Do you have any idea if this is something easy or inside the engine. And i cant rev past 4000rpm it cut out and when i power break it it want go past 2500pm. i think my cats are plugged causing that Please help been working on car for past 4 days and cant figure it out. P.S ive done changed oil oil filter and plugs. or if anybody has helpfull ideas

Regardless, that thing was shot. The two options were junking it or replacing the motor with one from a salvage yard.

Since when is a 4.7L V8 the same motor as a 4.0L I6?

Hows it doing now?

Ever ask him what he did to it, or rather didn't? My guess is the engine had been overheating for a very long time. I takes work to kill a 4.0.

@wildbill23c

6 жыл бұрын

Probably a combination of a lot of lack of maintenance. Very common cause of many vehicle problems.

What the hell is up with some of you guys?? Give the man a break. Thumbs up Eric.

awwww I was hoping for a tear-down.

Wow what is it with Jeeps and noisy something or other. Just noticed the hundreds of other Jeep with Noise videos in the related video section

I agree with your train of thought. With that many miles if it's not the top end = rebuild the motor, replace with salvaged engine, or junk the vehicle. I'm thinking it's a spun a rod bearing. My GM 4.3 Vortec spun a rod bearing and sounded similar. I could have sworn it was pushrod noise at first. At TDC the excess play makes the slapping noise. The connecting rod acts like rudimentary tuning fork which makes it sound like top section of the engine. It louder below but that's not where people put their heads. A stethoscope helps as you mentioned. An unsolved mystery unfortunately.

@rickjames6647

7 жыл бұрын

crap...I thought this was new upload.

@paulthibodeaux9063

7 жыл бұрын

Rick James tell me this.. my jeep rattles like a sob at idle an long periods of go.. Im very faithful to chevron 93 octane in every thing i drive. An still it rattles . clack clack clack. by the way it runs an performs like it should.. but come to a stop or have to put it in park an turn the ac off it goes down to like 6 rpms an would probly do it till it kills.. but it would take a while to do.. 193000 miles.. if it helps i ran it way low on gas then put 2 good octane boost. Now that made way way less loud after. HELP

@rickjames6647

7 жыл бұрын

paul thibodeaux You didn't say the year of the jeep, but I'm betting it's new enough to have an idle air control valve. This small electronically operated valve is attached to the throttle body. It sets the idle air volume (idle speed) depending on the engine load. For exampe, when you turn on the AC, it compensates for the increased load (drag of turning the AC compressor) by allowing more air in the engine at idle so the car doesn't die. Sometimes these gunk up or fail causing unsustainable load to idle relationships. Remove it, clean it, clean the port it sit in (make sure carbon isn't blocking the opening). It may just need replacing. Also clean around the main butterfly valve of the throttle body itself while your there. That would be my first thought. Other considerations: fault crankshaft position sensor...throws off timing or stalls the engine. This could be intermittent. Stretched timing belt or chain..throws off timing. Worse case it could be low compression. A worn out engine with excessive blow by, especially if it's a 4-cylinder, will be most noticeable at idle.

I'm about quitting on my XJ, this jumpy idle is driving me nuts and I can't find the problem!!!!

@romemedina4733

5 жыл бұрын

Dirty throttle body sensors all off them all clean out Male valve center of manifold should help also looking injectors if first step doesn't help

So, any update on this ? What was that engine's issue ?

Definitely piston skirt slapping problem then it broke with catastrophic results. Very common noise in those years with some folks having the noise for years without breaking. Its been a few years but I think it was piston 5 in mine that broke and scored the cylinder walls so deep that I couldn't do a rebuild on the engine unless I wanted expensive cylinder sleeves . Engine was at 125K miles.

@dnlmachine4287

8 жыл бұрын

+Tony Wadkins Yes same thing I have experienced at our shop. Piston slap...leads to piston skirts fracture....leads to holy schnikies. Stay gold.

"cracked" flexplate. or a piston skirt.

I am curious now ...let us know if you find out.

@EricTheCarGuy You know what man.. there will always be haters so just push them a side. Really your the one that is working on the Jeep and you know the owner real well and you said that you have done several things to the jeep and you know the car better then we do. So anyway keep doing what you do. Thank you for all the free videos they have helped me and several other people so me and other people thank you! :)