Questions from emails and The answers with gaited horse trainer Mike Meizler

Many questions come to Mike about Gaited Horses and their special needs. Mike explains that gaited horses need to be soft,supple and light to be a productive citizen.
Questions about loping a gaited horse should I or should I not lope? Loping is a natural gait to horses. Of course you should lope your gaited trail horse. Loping can free a horse up to extend his body and uses his hindquarters for propelling themselves forward. Many pacing horse will vastly improve by loping. Lope is a 3 beat gait, a pace is a 2 beat gait thus breaking up a pace in a horse by loping.
Gaited horses do not need a special but in order to gait properly. However if you do not spend time to teach your horse how to bend and be soft, supple, light and responsive then a snaffle bit is not for you. A horse that is stiff, straight and unresponsive needs a more severe bit to keep it from running off with the rider. A bit is not meant to be the device for you to hang onto a horses face and pull to keep yourself balanced. Many riders use the bit in this way. Our goal is to get your horse bending, flexing, complete control of the entire horse and you the rider being a team member with your horse.
A gaited horse is bred to gait, you can either help them or get in their way. Mike explains how you can be a partner to your horse in getting a smooth gait out on the trail.
The four beat walk of all gaited horses is your smoothest gait it is the gait you should strive to master. The gaited walk is comfortable to sit and comfortable for the horse for long periods of riding.
Creating a horse that is soft, supple, responsive and relaxed is the goal for any horse of any breed. Having a horse that stays with the rider not trying to go faster and faster but instead listening to the rider at all times. Having a horse that is relaxed and responsive will help you in the event of an unplanned spook.
The one rein stop is a tool that every rider should be able to master at any level of riding. This technique will be a life changer in your horsemanship game.
#horsetraining
#missourifoxtrotter
#horsemanship
#trailrider
#gaitedhorses
#horsesafety
#naturalhorsemanship
#ridinglessons
#onereinstop
#gaitedhorsebits
#thepowerofonerein
#softsupplehorses
#achieveshoftnessinyourhorse
#trainingyourhorse

Пікірлер: 24

  • @nancyrandazzo1713
    @nancyrandazzo17132 ай бұрын

    100% Once this is accomplished, the partnership and ride is amazing. I lost my 9 year old to Lymphoma and am starting over with my 4 year old.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    10 күн бұрын

    I'm very sorry. I know how that must hurt. ❤

  • @jimheckert5383
    @jimheckert5383 Жыл бұрын

    This is good advice. This man knows what he is taking about. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 thanks.

  • @MrMikemeizler

    @MrMikemeizler

    Жыл бұрын

    Glad to help and thank you jim

  • @chadspencer9302

    @chadspencer9302

    9 ай бұрын

    I got a twh that is full of energy. I’m afraid if I teach him to canter he will run off with my wife. He has a lot of motor

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    10 күн бұрын

    @@chadspencer9302 IMHO there is no basis for that. Teach him to listen and to be calm. Start with short collected canters, in a round pen if you can, to build confidence in yourself and your wife. Then increase the length of them. Your wife has been subjected to this incorrect idea, and because of that she may need confidence. But she and her horse NEED to be able to experience the full range of motion for both of their mental and physical health. How can they ever be partners when they are both bound up in this constriction? I don't like saying it, but your fear may be the biggest problem here. The ages and experience levels of your wife and of the horse are extremely important, but I know nothing of those factors. I wish I did know. An older horse is a far safer horse, so is a horse that has a lot of trail experience. If your wife has as little experience as it seems, then the horse needs to be an experienced one who has been through many things and had many different riders. A "hot" horse should not be used to teach a novice rider who doesn't even have a secure seat yet. Or one who doesn't even have very soft hands yet. But even near beginners can sit a canter in the ring! And they ned to be allowed to do it, so they can learn! You can't "teach" the horse to canter. All horses can and do canter on their own. You need to be sure the horse has been trained to canter when asked, and to stop when asked. That is totally the result of good calm, consistent training. And it can only be acheived by doing. Holding your wife and her horse back will not accomplish anything. You need the advice of a professional riding instructor, and your wife needs lessons from a pro. I've been runaway with more times than I can count, when I was young and riding rental horses, and I've never been hurt. It was always my own fault in one way or another. I won't try to say it never happens, just that it isn't the end of the world. Runaways only happen when a horse gallops. They are caused by 3 things, and a short collected (or controlled) canter is NOT one of them. The 3 causes are a scare, causing them to go as fast as they can without stopping, racing with other horses, and being goaded on by the rider. There is a vast difference in the mindset of a runaway horse and a cantering horse. Runaways are exceedingly rare. You should start with short collected, controlled centers in a round pen, if you have access to one, or in a riding ring, which is a smallish area commonly called an arena. Gradually increase the length of them. If you are still uneasy after working in a round pen or outdoor arena, do your first trail canters on a trail where there is a natural barrier of sorts at the end, which will naturally slow a galloping horse down. Please note that a canter is a collected gate under full control. The gallop is a flat out racing gait that almost never happens unless 2 or more horses are racing with each other, or the rider has goaded them into it. The 2 things are completely different and a canter is not at all likely to lead to a gallop. Only if the horse is racing with another horse, has been frightened, or has been egged on by the rider, will they begin to gallop. We really should not ever goad any horse into galloping. A canter can be a beatiful relaxed thing with no loss of communication between horse and rider. In fact the communication is greater during most canters than it is during most trotting. Because of the bouncy nature of trots, we tend to be focused on too many things at once. On not losing our stirrups, on posting, or on sitting without bouncing, on the very difficult task of keeping contact with the reins without pulling on them. I don't care what anyone says, that is incredibly hard for even the best riders. Then we need to take in any hazards, in our immediate area and at the medium distance. While moving a lot faster than at the walk. This is all actually easier at the canter than it is at the trot. Canters are easily slowed or stopped, but gallops are not always as easily stopped, depending on why they began. Runaways only happen at the gallop. The rider will only be likely to fall when the horse runs into the trees, or if it makes a sudden sharp turn. It is undesirable for sure, but it's not the end of the world. It's just scary. The thing that is most needed here is confidence in your wife and in you. The horse WILL obey her if she is confident. I feel that YOUR fear is likely the problem here. Your wife will pick it up from you, and her horse will then pick it up too. I would never allow a husband or wife to teach their spouse to drive a car, because all of their neuroses and their relationship problems will come out. The same thing applies to riding. Husband or wife should never teach each other. It's is damaging to all concerned, including the poor horse. I don't intend any harsh criticism of you. I'm sure you are no better or worse than me or anyone else, and I like very much that you care so much about her safety. In so many ways that is a very good thing! But I struggle to see where you are coming from, because for a novice it's far easier to stay on at the canter than it is at the trot. If she has a good handle on how to trot, both at the posting and the sitting trot, without yanking on the horse's mouth, then she is ready to move on to one of the the next 2 steps. It doesn't matter much which of the next 2 things you do first. It can be either be the canter, or the learning of how to ride without stirrups. Riding without stirrups can come before or after the canter. I learned it first, and IMHO, I recommend it first. Anyone who can't ride without stirrups can't ride properly at all, period. People do lose their stirrups now and then at the trot or the canter. We don't want that to cause fear. It's better to just rip the bandaid off and do it without them, in a controlled environment. First at a walk, then after 5 minutes at a slow collected trot. The trot phase will take much longer of course, and they should spend a lot of time trotting without stirrups, in many different places and environments, if possible, in the ring and on the trails. Riding bareback is equally as good, if the horse has a smooth back without high withers. Bareback pads can be bought, with places to attach stirrups. They also keep your pants much cleaner! Once a person can ride stirrupless at a trot without any pulling on the reins, it's time to canter. Holding her back is not helping her. Stirrupless or bareback, either one, is an acceptable step between trotting and catering. Either way, if she is trotting well, feeling very comfortable, and is not pulling on the reins or hanging on to the saddle or the horse's mane to stay balanced, you need to need to move on. If they are held back in only walk/trot routines, both she and the horse will be bored to tears by the lack of variety! I think the input of a knowlegable third party would help you booth immensely at this point. Is she is such a novice that she is not ready to canter? I wish I knew more about the situation. If there is any doubt at all about whether she rides soft on the horse's mouth, then stirrupless or bareback must be the next step. If she is pulling at all, then take the reins away too, in an enclosed area like round pen or arena. Ride without reins and stirrups for as long as it takes. This can take a long time, weeks, or even many months, but it is essential. Anyone who can retain control of their horse at a trot, without pulling and without stirrups, is ready to canter. The canter is SO MUCH smoother than a trot, so that it feels 100 times easier to do and safer. You should really have her take a few lessons from somebody else. I'm not saying you are not a good teacher, not at all, just that the more different teachers we have the better we become. Our understanding is increased by the variety of ways in which things are explained to us. So it would help you both so much. I would also talk with as many people as you can about both of you, your own abilities, and those of your horses. I would also talk to many people about learning how to ride bitless, and teaching our horses. I've seen such a large number of horses and riders in the last 20 or so years that ride with no bit. Some horses were trained without a bit from day 1, and some transitioned afterwards. Most of them like it so much that they listen better without it. The idea that anyone or any horse requires a bit with huge long shanks is ridiculous. It only shows that there is a hole in the training of the horse, or rider, or both. Your horses know how to canter, whether or not you teach them how. But they are better in everyway if you teach them how to do it correctly, in a collected manner. It's VASTLY better for both physical and mental health of horse and rider if they are allowed that range of movement and expression! Speak to your vet about it too. Nothing but walk/trot routines is actually very hard on the horse's spine and musculature. Your wife and horse both need to learn to ride in collection. The inclussion of canters will help them do that. If they don't learn how they will both suffer. The horse can develop serious physical problems. A condition called Kissing Spine can be the result, or can be worsened. That is where the bones of the spine actually rub on one another, and it can cripple or kill a horse, in the worst case scenario. I'm sorry. I'm not very good at expressing this in writing. Please do get other advice! It's great that you asked here, and I'm sorry that the channel owner seems to not have read your question. I would have loved to read his reply. All the best to you, your wife, and your horses! ❤🐎🐴🐎❤

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    10 күн бұрын

    @@chadspencer9302 I forgot to add something. (I hope you are not sick of me. LOL!) Before you ride you can lunge him, to burn of energy and to get him focused. Always groom him first, to help him get ready, and to adjust more slowly than just grabbing him and going straight into lunging. They also need the gentle contact with you first. To talk and snuggle, and to recieve scratches, which they just love! The same thing applies when riding. They need the slow time to understand that now it's time to work. Some people will lunge without the saddle, but in your case I would do it with one, just on a looser girth or cinch than when riding. But do tighten it up before actually riding! A round pen is helpful for lunging, but is not essential. Use a lunging caveson (a type of headgear) if you have access to one, or an ordinary halter, but not a bitted bridle. Keep a close eye out for rubbing though, and at the first sign of any rubbing, get fleece pads to put on the halter, to prevent any sores from developing. Do not EVER continue if the halter rubs. That would just make them hate the whole process, and cause you problems forever, with them resisting lunging or even resisting halters FOREVER! Use a long rope or a lunging rope and learn how to hold the rope, so that if they try to take off, your hand won't get injured from the rope. Also get a lunging whip and/or a lunging flag. We all know that "whip" is only a term for a stick with a floppy rope at the far end of it, that is used as an extension of our arm. We never ever whip our horses for any reason. Take him up and down through all of the gaits at varying rates, spending at least a few minutes on each gait. Over time you will see a change in him. Some people find it advantageous to keep lunging them before every ride, forever. Spend around 20 to 30 minutes, no more, and give them a big reward after, like a treat of some kind, and then another brushing with a lot of affection, or a good hosing down, as long as it isn't cold out. Read up on techniques, because even if I had time to write it all out, I haven't got full knowledge, so others can advise you better than I can. You AND your wife should participate in this, ESPECIALLY your wife. This a very important thing, and is something you REALLY NEED to incorporate. I would also recommend giving your horse desensitization training, by exposing him/her to as many different sights and sounds as possible, while making the start and end off the experience as positive and enjoyable for them as you can. There are many great examples on KZread. It can include sacking or bagging the horse. It's a wonderful technique that is very popular in Australia. I had big doubts until I saw it done, but I am very enthusiastic about it now. Eventually you can make a lot of noise and movement, but first you must start slowly, as in all desensitization programs. It involves slowly accustoming them to first the sight and smell of the bag, then being gently petted with it, first gently on the sides of the face and top of head, then the neck and withers, rubbing their chest, then slowly down the front legs, then their back, and belly, then top of the bum, and slowly down the back legs. Each time, if possible, with slightly more noise and bigger arm movements, until eventually they will tolerate any amount of commotion with no alarm at all. This go fast or slow, the needs of the horse are the only thing that matters. It can take an hour, a week, or a month. The thing is to not scare or hurt them in any way. Other people's opinions are the very last thing that matters. Your horse's increasing comfort and trust are the only thing that matters. If you need to spend a month just sitting with them quietly before you can even begin, so be it. Be sure there is no fear or confrontations regarding haltering them or bridling them. Be absolutely sure you are not causing any discomfort with that, like banging the bit on their teeth, or hurting their ears. The extra time taken to be sure that they are totally comfortable will pay off immeasurably in the end! You can and should do other desensitization too. Take them for walks with a tarp fixed over the saddle, and plastic bottles with small stones in them, or better yet marbles for maximum noise. Get them so you can rattle the tarp a lot with no reaction from them. Ride them this way once you are able to. Expose them slowly and carefully to cattle and barking dogs, loud radios, noisy vehicles, and fake explosions. All in a gradual way, with lots of love and plenty of reassurance, and ALWAYS be sure to provide something positive at the end, like a massage or a brushing down, with lots of their favorite kind of feed or treats as reinforcement. During the activity also include as much access to hay and water as the activity permits. It helps them. The only way to make a horse bombproof is by putting in the time. Older horses are naturally just not as trigger happy. Very often during this training, whenever possible, the presence of an older or more experienced and calmer horse is very helpful to their confidence. So you can really help them by showing them that another horse they know and trust will do the thing without any fear. Crossing bridges, streams, and man made contraptions like teeter-totters. First without a rider and then with one, preferably your wife. All of these activities will build the confidence and trust between the 3 of you. I sense you need that. The horse needs it the most of course, so if you choose to have a trainer do a lot of it that's fine, but it's even better if you can do those things together, including the lunging, and bagging if you choose to do it, and lots of time on the trails, in nature. The more time you spend together in any way, and the more you understand and trust each other, the more rewards you will get from your relationship. Afterall, horsemanship is not limited to just riding, and if a person doesn't love horses in general, and their own individual horses, enough yo do these things and enjoy doing them, then maybe they should rethink things, and perhaps find a different hobby. After all, horse ownership is a lifestyle not just a hobby! I'm sure you already know that. So please don't think I'm implying you don't. Maybe I've told you a lot thay you already know. No offense was intended. I wish all of you nothing but the best. ❤❤❤

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    10 күн бұрын

    Thank you SO MUCH to KZread for putting my reply to the poster back again! ❤

  • @user-bi6ro8rx2m
    @user-bi6ro8rx2mАй бұрын

    Love it!! Thank you for all of your truthful information!!!! Thank you for reiterating the bit myths!!!! I ride my walkers bitless...Don't need those dang shanked bits for control!! Trail riding is the best...thank you for your honesty and not downplaying trail riding!

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    10 күн бұрын

    I can't understand why people still use those horrifyingly long shanks. What's wrong with their minds? Another channel just published a video of a guy trail riding with a double bridle on his horse. Why?! I also want to say that while some shows can be an ok thing, IMHO the only really rewarding way to ride is on the trails. I see the value of schooling with the lunge, of course, and of riding in a ring for instruction. But all of that would only be to improve the trail riding experience for me and my horse. I've been around horses off and on for my whole life. 64 years. I see no value in increasing the height of jumps beyond what might impede us on a normal trail, and jumping on trails is not a good idea anyway. If you can possibly avoid it, you should do so. Jumping high jumps or jumping a lot of low ones strains the horse's body in unnatural ways. If you are bored with the trails nearby, teach your horse to be a good loader, and take them to new places. Teach them to do Liberty or Dressage moves. Teach yourself and them to ride bareback and or bitless, or even bridleless,, with just a neck rope. I see no value at all in the high stress things they put horses through. Barrel racing, all rodeo events, racing, and Big Lick. Those are simply torture, and should be banned. There is nothing that compares to the beauty of just following a trail or fields, and enjoying your environment, with just your horse or with friends. If I could do it every day until I die, I would die happy!

  • @jordanwhite5470
    @jordanwhite54703 ай бұрын

    The "what" is good to know, but would be more useful if the "how" followed it.

  • @dizel9387
    @dizel93872 ай бұрын

    ❤ I just found you today. Love your opinion and I agree. Gaited horses are fascinating and we have to learn together. It’s so much fun. I will watch more of your content and recommend it to my friends. Thank you 🙏

  • @MrMikemeizler

    @MrMikemeizler

    2 ай бұрын

    We also have a Patreon page it is rafter m tracings stables over 300 training videos there and thank you very much

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    10 күн бұрын

    Can anyone who is or has been a Patreon comment on how complete and/or helpful those Patreon videos are?

  • @bryanmontgomery4050
    @bryanmontgomery405019 күн бұрын

    I don’t know a damn thing about a gated horse but this guy figured out all the cow horses in the world!!! If you don’t have a solar foundation, you have nothing!!!

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    10 күн бұрын

    What do you mean by solar? Solar means the sun.

  • @bryanmontgomery4050

    @bryanmontgomery4050

    10 күн бұрын

    Solid, have fat fingers.

  • @rebeccadees2300
    @rebeccadees230015 күн бұрын

    Just curious if you can use a bit less bridle on a horse with a good foundation.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    10 күн бұрын

    Of course you can! Just don't expect instant results. It takes time for them to learn, just as it takes time for us. You should be riding more with your legs anyway though. If you have a respected person who has made the transition, ask them to help you. Most people who love horses will be happy to help.

  • @EstellaHoskins-pm1sh
    @EstellaHoskins-pm1shАй бұрын

    Question, I have a KMSH trail horse, 11 years old. She is a great trail horse but has bucked me off four times causing some serious injuries. She is usually soft, supple, and responsive but gets scared at 18 wheelers, motorcycles, and sometimes I don't know what. She is so athletic that she is in the air. It's happened 4 times in the past 5 years. What can I do to correct this immideate response to being scared?

  • @MrMikemeizler

    @MrMikemeizler

    Ай бұрын

    Your mare is 11 years old and should be over all thta nonsence so if she isn’t over It by now I would say she will never be over it and you could get hurt really bad I know you have been hurt but it could always be worse I wish I had and answer for ya but your status is vital

  • @nancyrandazzo1713
    @nancyrandazzo17132 ай бұрын

    Where are you located?

  • @MrMikemeizler

    @MrMikemeizler

    2 ай бұрын

    We are in Thayer Missouri. Thayer is located on the Arkansas Missouri border. 4172802219 is joy’s contact number.