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Q*bert Refurb & Repair - Part 3 - Joystick, CR7000 CRT Restore, Misc.

Q*bert is in the basement! Joystick rebuild, CRT restore and some other minor things.
00:00 Intro & Status
03:30 Joystick Disassembly
07:17 Joystick Comparison
10:28 Joystick Assembly
19:40 Progress Smoke Test
23:55 CR7000 Tube Restore
38:24 Bezel Stuff
41:05 Final Fixes and Play

Пікірлер: 27

  • @delsarcade
    @delsarcade8 ай бұрын

    Just confirming that that smoke glass bezel is original. I had it in my Q*Bert. Most others I've seen have plastic instead of glass. So if you have glass you're ahead of the pack.

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    Thanks Del. She has some battle scars but does appear to be all original so that is a plus.

  • @deborahberi3249
    @deborahberi32498 ай бұрын

    Reminds me of some of the fixes the great Francesco of YT Channel iz8dwf does! -Mark.

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    Hadn't seen that channel. Thanks for the 411.

  • @Omega_Mark
    @Omega_Mark8 ай бұрын

    That smoked glass will definitely hide CRT burn-in, so it's a win-win and it will last you many years more 👍.

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    Yea. I had to research it but the smoked glass is referred to as "Monitor Filter Glass" in the manual. I guess they knew there would be plenty of burn similar to pac-man's maze.

  • @Omega_Mark

    @Omega_Mark

    8 ай бұрын

    @@jacklick I always liked the look of it. The colors were somehow more interesting and your eyes were hurting much less while playing for a long time, especially in a dark room. You can save a lot of CRTs with a burn-in just by using tinted glass or just light tint plastic for car windows.

  • @RyanAumiller
    @RyanAumiller8 ай бұрын

    any idea where to get kicker parts? mine was in a flood. I got almost everything working again except the kicker. pretty sure I have a corrupt character rom and I still have sound issues (never says "Hello I'm turned on" sometimes it will just continuously chatter if it actually tries to do the welcome speech, this was a problem BEFORE the flood)

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    www.arcadeshop.com/i/1028/q-bert-knocker-assembly.htm Arcadeshop sells both a 12v Knocker for the jrok board and a 30v knocker. You can get them with or w/o the assembly. @classicarcaderepairs4818 repairs boards if you need to send it out.

  • @Omega_Mark
    @Omega_Mark8 ай бұрын

    43:09 Maybe it's just the camera, but the coin door lights are kinda bright. Are you sure the bulbs are proper voltage?

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    I haven't checked them but it is probably the camera. I will doulbe check.

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    Double checked. +5v at the coin door with #259 bulbs, which are correct, but #555 would be fine too.

  • @Omega_Mark

    @Omega_Mark

    8 ай бұрын

    @@jacklick It's like a checklist. It's definitely better to not leave any "stones unturned" in these old games :).

  • @Omega_Mark
    @Omega_Mark8 ай бұрын

    With that big vent hole on the back of the cabinet, are you gong to add a fan to keep things cooler, especially in the summer?

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    Convection :) It wouldn't hurt but I doubt I will make the effort.

  • @Omega_Mark

    @Omega_Mark

    8 ай бұрын

    @@jacklick I don't remember, are there any vents near the top of the cabinet? Q*bert power supply gets very hot (you might want to rebuild it, the sooner, the better). Check on it after the game is running for a while. Some people could fry eggs on that heatsink :). That heat has to escape somewhere. A fan blowing colder air into the cabinet (the vent is near bottom, so no point of blowing the air out there) might help with the circulation. It doesn't have to be high speed, so it's going to be pretty much silent.

  • @delsarcade

    @delsarcade

    8 ай бұрын

    Yeah, my Q*Bert had vents on the top. You can see them at 1:21.

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    I did rebuild the PS in video 1. I agree helping the convection affect could be helpful.

  • @Omega_Mark

    @Omega_Mark

    8 ай бұрын

    @@delsarcade Cool... no pun intended lol.

  • @waynegram8907
    @waynegram89078 ай бұрын

    What is the Gun Tracking doing to the RGB Guns? its tracking what. What is the difference between Low Tracking compared to High Tracking?

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    I have covered it other videos but will oblige anyway.... low tracking compares the G2 voltage needed to achieve cutoff current and compares that voltage across all 3 guns to make sure they are within close @125% to each other. high tracking is similar but measure the peak emission (g1 neg bias at zero) of all three guns and compares them to make sure they are close to each other @150%

  • @waynegram8907

    @waynegram8907

    8 ай бұрын

    @@jacklick I'm looking at the Senscore CR7000 and it doesn't show a display for 125% for low tracking and 150% for high tracking so how do you know if the RGB guns are close to 125% or 150%?

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    @@waynegram8907 because I know how to read and various Sencore cr7000 documents state that is the ratio it is tracking for low and high tracking.

  • @waynegram8907

    @waynegram8907

    8 ай бұрын

    @@jacklick Yes the documents state that I get that part but when looking at the Sencore CR7000 there is "NO indicators" or "No labels" on the display meters to know if you're within 125% or 150%? so how does a technician know

  • @jacklick

    @jacklick

    8 ай бұрын

    Under Gun Tracking there is a green led for good and red led for bad tracking. For low tracking, the gun with cutoff adjust set highest is the bad gun. For high tracking, you will be able to see via the emission output which gun has the lowest emission of the 3.