An important note I need to mention: Please don't think I am in any way dogging the old shop that helped me with the original build. I don't blame them for any of the issue we had with the block. Yes, the block got knocked off a work table, but stuff like that can happen. And then they took a lot of time and attention making the repair. Everything thought it was done as well as absolutely possible. So please don't think I'm putting any blame on those guys, we're still friends and hope to work with some of them again in the future. Thanks!

@domenicomonteleone3055

Жыл бұрын

Working with Keith Dorton is the Master Engine Builder and everyone else Top Quality Workmanship they all have an excellent understanding about Engine Building hi 👋 from# YSW respect back to you all 🇨🇦 😊😊😊😊😊😊

@xozindustries7451

Жыл бұрын

I would think that they would have replaced the block

@tomconner5067

Жыл бұрын

It was the decision of the customer to repair it, and it was done well, there was just and undetected and unsuspected main cap alignment issue that if detected, would have been correctable with a material buildup/re-size, and basic line bore & hone on the rear main cap,while torqued down. If foresight was as clear as hindsight, the welder could have ran the bead with the rest of the block submerged in H2O, preventing the damage with an ounce of effort and it would not have been an issue requiring the above mentioned “pound of cure”. I’ve cross drilled dowelled and siamese drilled and tapped a hole for a small tapered plug, half into the dowel end and half into the ear, preventing it from turning or walking its way out, then cross drilled through both the plug and dowel starting through the ear material ending 5/16” into the block, pounding in a drift pin until it bottomed out cutting them off with an angle grinder with a slicer, then after grinding the whole thing flush,used a punch and a low temp oxy-acetylene tip to heat up the iron i peened the block gently to lock in the dowell , and drift pin before re tooling and repeating the process at the other end deliberately cross drilling at different angles along the linear edge. Once it was fixed, I ground a slight bevel along the crack, and patiently stitched the seam with a nickel 99 electrode filler, letting the bead cool to the same temp as the preheated block/ear substrate. Phew! My thumb is numb! Well it held up, and no one noticed, it was on a 454 block, had a little more meat

@cassellracing

10 ай бұрын

The old shop absolutely 💯 % would have provided me a Factory Freash New Block !!!!

Much respect to everyone responsible for doing all the block work.

I always appreciate it when mistakes are shown, talked about. It shows honesty, human fallibility we all have and the desire to educate others so they, hopefully, don't make the same mistake. So, for that, Thank You. That said, awesome build and video.

I like how you're keeping it SBC powered.

@rockfordhx2768

Жыл бұрын

America!!!

Good to see a new show, and certainly was not disappointed. I get educated with every episode and I never knew milling magnetised blocks. I love all the nuts and bolts stuff, All the very best from Scotland

@angelo_giachetti

Жыл бұрын

Main caps warping from heat is another great tip Iv never heard before.

I like that the block is painted red, that's good for 20HP. 😎

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

Exactly!

@thomaschandler4831

Жыл бұрын

@@TheHorsepowerMonster if it was painted ( BLUE ) it would gain 100 hp 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 👍👍🏆🙏😁

Those are some great dyno numbers, especially at just 5 psi of boost. Definitely a monster engine. Great video as always. ✌😁

@ICONBADGTA

11 ай бұрын

5psi is all?!? HOLY SHIIIATTTT! I was wondering why only 600ish HP when NA 427's can do that.... With 10psi, that thing should have went 1000hp+ (EASY)!!

@KingJT80

4 ай бұрын

@@ICONBADGTA this engine and a V7 ysi kit they sell..it'll do it with more cam

@ICONBADGTA

4 ай бұрын

@@KingJT80 383 did it with 10PSI... Don't know why they couldn't do it with a lot more cubes on this engine... kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y6Ntla-yqZWpgJM.html

I like Vortech blowers and their kits. They work. I was one of the first to buy a Vortech kit serial #00214. It was an A trim for a 5.0 Mustang back in 1993. Later I had it upgraded to an S trim and 10 rib pulleys. This head unit had straight cut gears and it was noisy. Back then few people heard of centrifugal blowers as the only other one was a Paxton SN89 which could not compare to a Vortech. I enjoyed the video.

So excited to see a new build video on this channel. I've been really missing them. Awesome video, brother 👏 👏 👏

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Thanks for showing all the mix-ups and screwups, I bet that's how it really goes for most of us. Having to re-do an engine you already paid someone to do once is a real kick in the nads and a big hit to the wallet. Reminds me of when a dyno operator slammed the front-end of my pristine Buick GN into the dyno cooling fans, a 2-day dyno tune turned into a 14 month stay in body shop prison. It has cost me quite a bit to recover the expenses from that fiasco. Everyone I'm sure has similar stories of heartache with their hot rod. Like you I try and do everything myself but sometimes you have to turn it over to what you hope is a pro, in your case an engine builder, in mine a FAST XFI turner.

I would redrill the bracket and move the idler further under the blower so you could get more wrap on the pulley. Bound to help with the slip😊

@Vintageguy73

Жыл бұрын

The blowers won't stand the rpm for very long.

@rc2300s2r

Жыл бұрын

@@Vintageguy73 bigger blower pulley? Less rpm’s on the blower. Just move the power band out a little.

@frankburn6312

Жыл бұрын

You want slip: helps the engine from blowing up.

Your channel is one of the first I ever subscribed too, and due largely in part to the build series you ran on this engine years ago. It used to kill me having to wait for the next episode to come out in that series. I always wondered why I never saw it go in the Camaro, and now I know. Excellent work, and that thing is a Monster! I now have hope to seeing it under the hood of the Camaro. Really appreciate the quality, and highly technical videos you produce. Thanks

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words! And thanks for watching!

You're a man after my own heart 😁 My first car was a 1978 Camaro (Type LT) This is my kind of engine build.....a big cube small block! This combo is nice on its own, but the Vortech is the cherry on top. An extra 160 hp from 5.5 psi of boost is an excellent number!

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

@domenicomonteleone3055

11 ай бұрын

@@TheHorsepowerMonster Please keep making your videos beacuse they are really interesting and important to understand, and say Thank you kindly to Keith Dorton and his Son you Rock 🎸 with this information Videos hi 👋 from # YSW 🇨🇦 where I follow you 💯 from .

@TheHorsepowerMonster

11 ай бұрын

@@domenicomonteleone3055 Thanks! And thanks for watching!

@domenicomonteleone3055

11 ай бұрын

@@TheHorsepowerMonster i love watching your KZread videos and only one request more videos with Keith Dorton & Son and your own videos as well Thank you kindly for responding back to me in # YSW 🇨🇦 .

Awesome build guys! beautiful SBC with the Votec boost. Oh yeah I hear the belt squeal. That belt might need another idler pulley.

Man top of the line engine masters at work!! I wish I could afford those guys to do my machine shop work

Really glad you got the engine fixed and back together. Maybe I'm getting old but I have no use for turbos or blowers, with the complexity and heat. The NA 427 is plenty for me.

Wow! That belt was waving more than the American flag on the 4th of July! Still a great build and a fun watch! Thanks for the content!!!🙏🙏

That block hitting the ground had to have been a hell of an “oh-shit” moment.

@gdb5448

11 ай бұрын

For real...there is ZERO chance I would have accepted that welded up pos...the way I look at it, I didn't bring a broken block to the shop, so the shop sure as hell isn't going to return to me a broken block...it sucks for them but they'd be buying me a NEW replacement...maybe they'll be more careful next time.

@kurkkobain

11 ай бұрын

lool happened to me oce with engine head

@zoggrog8823

9 ай бұрын

Exactly my thoughts

Wow! Love everything about this video, the topic, your humor, narration, and honesty when you F'd something up... I need to implement everything here to my channel, yes, including the Vortech. ha, ha. I subbed to learn from you. Keep it up!

@TheHorsepowerMonster

11 ай бұрын

Hey thanks! And thanks for watching!

What a great off road motor. Torque, torque,torque.

After watching those boosted pulls, it's easy to see why the Vortech V2 on my wife's Mustang shreds belts like crazy! I keep several spares in the trunk!

I could watch a skilled machinist all day.

You can manage that slip buy installing one of those grip or traction pulleys on the blower I noticed on my 95 mustang it helped with belt slip substantially plus the amount of tension can be dropped on the blower belt tensioner

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

You are right. Not a bad idea

@jojog8304

Жыл бұрын

Yes, vortech offers “high traction” pulleys on their website which have a textured surface. Note the sizes are slightly different (2.93” is a 3”, etc). I didn’t see much different between normal and high traction, but have a much shorter belt in my setup. The belt on that 427 looks way too long that a second pulley is needed.

Thanks great job I've been looking at a vortec blower for a gen 3 vortec 6.0 nice to see there worth the expense

It’s always a good day when the channel post a vid 💯made my whole week

You are so good at detail. I would trust you with any build! Great job!

@TheHorsepowerMonster

7 ай бұрын

Hey thanks! And thanks for watching!

Cool repair work, showed some stuff im sure most of us have never even thoight of.

Keith is the MAN....

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

You are correct!

Very nicely done.

a spring loaded tensioner set up to be at max torsional load at indicator limit marks on the tensioner. gm & ford make some very high spring rate tensioners. also try to wrap the belt as far around the driven pulley as you can.

Good diagnosis on the rear main.!

Awesome build!

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

Much thanks! And thanks for watching!

I saw a tip in a old hot rod magazine years ago. About using hair spray to stop belt slippage and squealing.

I spray some old fashioned belt dressing on my Vortec V-7 and it really helps. Like stick-um on a wide receivers hands.

I love this program !!!!!!!!

@TheHorsepowerMonster

10 ай бұрын

Hey thanks! And thanks for watching!

Nice! I’ve got a ‘78 z28 that would really benefit from that monster!

Had a vortex on 302ford,was great as long as belt stayed on!

Nice video! I would have checked the length of the oil pump stud or bolt as well (if you hadn't on initial assembly) to ensure it didn't put pressure on rear main bearing.

You won't max it out, YOU WONT YOU WONT dang you did it.

I really like keeping a small block. Every dyno video I've ever watched has the supercharger belt slip in that same rpm range. Seems vortech would've cured that by now with a different design

great vid!

Stripping Aluminum threads, let me see, oh yeah I remember Caddy HT4100 mains. Stripped right out. Two sets of helicoils per main bolt hole. Yay!

I was probably more excited about this video then a grown man should've been

Belt slippage is cause there is not enough wrap around on the belt. Install an idler on the bottom side and slip won’t be as bad.

Nice build. I want it.

COOL BUILD , I LIKE YOUR STYLE .

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

I can only imagine how that crank feels at the front with that bigass pulley hanging off

@douchedidit9222

Жыл бұрын

Thats a procharger thing

@brettjohnson8009

Жыл бұрын

Thats why there are sbc cranks made of timken bearing steel that have bbc snouts on them

Learned something from this video. I didn't know a crank could be magnetized.

Love it.

Thank God their is real engineers left,awesome.

I have zero experience on boosted gasoline engines.. however if you went through the trouble to add a intercooler would that help .I believe that the fuel injection system you have helps cool the intake charge..some what ..Thanks for the videos

Funny about the glove.😂 Me too lol. Left palm bad cut but to lazy for trip to hospital 🏥. So I one gloved it at work for 2 weeks. Took a good month for it to fully heal 😢. Lol

I have pulled apart engines that had different sizes in the journals required two sets of bearings , the crank ended up ,.020" .030", didn't know they made bearings in . 030" under

It's too bad that to get the HP of a 302 FORD 4 valve using an SBC, it has to be bored and stroked to 427 cubic inches. I can't wait to see how much power the BIG SBC can make with a blower. WOW! Love your show.

Nice work. You gotta post more videos on the corvette

finally another build video!

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, I’ve been pretty slow. Thanks for watching!

I'm surprised you would even consider an Si trim blower on that motor. A Ti trim would be my absolute minimum choice with a Ysi being my prefered option even on a street combo. Also, you may look into fitting a spring loaded belt tensioner onto the bracket to help with belt slip. I ran a YSi up to about 18 psi with a 10 rib belt on an old 383 LT1 before slip became an issue. The car made 800 whp back in the early 2000's.

@ss0073

Жыл бұрын

Agreed! Running a 10 rib with a spring loaded tensioner with a ProCharger. Making 16 PSI with no belt slip and 817 WHP on a 400sbc. Brodix aluminum block and these same DS225 heads

Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸

Interesting Video. Subbed. 🏎

i was hoping you keep experimenting with that 427 small block, like try a different cam to bring the peak to a lower rpm, to avoid the belt slip.

Excellent ....

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

Much thanks!

I wouldn't have let them weld the block, replacement should have been on them!

I’m sure your going to have to do something with the converter, make sure it’s spaced correctly! It’s normally the biggest cause of thrust damage! Hopefully you don’t have any crank snout problems 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Best of luck 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻!

I live in the boondocks in Alabama there one race car builder around here and he always says "there ant nothing time and money can't fix"

I like yalls tools

Pretty sure the Engine belt could be routed wrong and probably needed to wrap around the crank pulley in a different configuration. Hence the longer belt, but I could be totally wrong. Just a thought

I've been waiting. ❤

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for your patience!

You guys should do another video with Griptec pulleys.

Huge bore for stock block wow....love adding 1/2" stroke too. 👍

As a machinist,indicating things in is way more important than the actual cutting..

Whats it like hanging out with one of the gods of horsepower?? It must be awesome!!!

Good to see you using Foggit to protect your engine.

Bondery layer air is a problem with flat belts. Need to drill the pulleys so the air has somewhere to go

Love the glove

Big cube Small Blocks , have no issue with a bigger duration. 252/263 @50 in mine and it idles and drives perfectly

@JimBronson

Жыл бұрын

This. This cam is falling off by 6000. It needs more cam, you should be able to make 600 NA with the heads and displacement that you have. Absolute minimum 230 degrees at .050. With 427 cubes the idle will be a lot more reasonable than it would be on a 350.

@YAHNewsNetwork

Жыл бұрын

@@JimBronson 230 is nothing would ya use 230 in a BB ? Nope so why use it in a big cube sb ? 250 area is a good area .. I make 642 Hp and 594 Tq

@JimBronson

Жыл бұрын

@@YAHNewsNetwork I did say that it was the absolute minimum, but yeah, on a big cubes small block I would go more.

Super glue is great where stitches and bandaid are not practical 🤘

I had build a 1981 Corvette some years back. I bought the car for about $8,000 and it had some miles but was in good shape. Then i found a rod knocking. I picked up a late 80s TPIS engine and had it good over, new cam and valve train, Vortech SC and Headers, then a 3.36 gear with a 700R4 Tranny. I added a boost gauge on the A Pillar and the whistle of the blower and that gage were the only clues. My License plate was C3SLPR and it was a Mustang Eater! I miss that thing. It was so clean and unassuming until lit it up and it would fry the tires and the clutch in 2nd would smell !!!!!!

Hey buddy, If you can get the tension pulley up close to the blower pulley that may do it for no worse than it was. By moving it up closer, and you could also go with a slightly smaller in diameter and get it right up in close. The closer the tension pulley is, the more surface of the belt is on the pulley, for maximum pull power, the belt needs to bite on as much surface as possible! I'd bet it will make that go away except for certain factors. Are you at altitude? If so the blower isn't working very hard, the air is thin, down here at seal level where I live, the air is thick plus it's humid as hell, it'd be more apt to slip.

Hear that belt shrieking in protest!

I need that motor in my sonoma!

Do extra thick head gaskets, 0.040" thicker than stock, throw off the rest of the mating surfaces geometry, mainly the intake to heads angle? I only ask because I was told it does, but this video glossed over it like it is no problem.

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

A little bit. The intake to cylinder head bolt holes were OK, but where I noticed it most was the blower bracket that bolted to both the block and the side of the cylinder head. It was a little tight, so you had to start all the bolts loose and then tighten.

Can you remove one of the spark plugs and put a computer sensor to record high and low pressure in the cylinder at different speeds?

Great video! So how is the Corvette coming??

What was the IAT at the end of the run? What do you suppose the IAT is gonna be once installed and driven even on a 85 degree day? Seems you would have to pull a LOT of timing and/or run it extremely fat. Thanks for the content.

i believe cold air intakes need to be routed to keep as much heat as possible away from the main air inlet aka filter but also the tube to the throttle body.dose no good to have an egine hot tube carrying your cold air.going to have custom hood scoop built for my o5 tahoe to help the cold air intake stay cold

Yes, just like this, give me the HP and the driveability with air-conditioning and power steering!! In a 87 Chevy Silverado that will walk the dog on the mustangs and coverett!! I'm thinking 383 or 388 stroker or even a 400 stroker, I love the chop of these engines!! Blower or charged is fine too!!

Do magnetic and all that is discharge when you balanced and blueprinted... Would you should always do after do any machine work on cranks

I feel like a smaller mild 350 would displace far less air and if the kit is configured in this manner (the pulleys size) the pressure will increase in the intake(bewst) and make the belt slip worse. Less pressure more flow>more pressure less flow. I think that setup will slip at the top on just about any engine unless it just doesn’t go past 5500😮 I’m not hating I love sc but you have to have belt wrap like maybe if it had a tension or idler on the bottom.

Why not use a new main Cap

Bandaids don't work. Newskin doesn't work. Duct tape doesn't work. After disinfecting a small cut, pat dry and set a small piece of paper towel over the wound. Drops of CA glue will keep the wound closed. I've done this for 40 years, and never got an infection. It always works.

How much of the drivers side fender well had to be cut to clear the blower housing? I have a ProCharger and had to notch the fender well

That machine shop was scary clean. I thought I smelled a cherry pie baking.

Jha,ha. Just Waite on tuning that blower set up ,!

But what will you do about the belt slippage?

Listen to that infamous vortec belt slip

I run boost on 11 to 1 compression no issues just don't need as much most big engine guys won't use the sniper system

🤔🤔🤔 I Love the content, but I would like to know what weight of oils did you use and overall, what types of transmission would work best for you if this was in a Tahoe or Yukon 93 to 97 ???

@TheHorsepowerMonster

Жыл бұрын

I'll probably run a 10W-30. I don't know what stock trans might work with this, but I'm probably going to go with a built 4L80E auto to go with it. Thanks

Can you build a 400 sbc 427 stroker with a gen 1 (1970ish) block?

Can the belt slippage be mitigated with more belt deflection? This is assuming it's worth it and you'd want to machine something else to force it to work...

@ThePaulv12

Жыл бұрын

Yeah I'm hearin' ya - there's always something that is NQR. Why can't they sort this stuff out? You know the moment I saw that long unsupported section of belt on the non drive side I thought this is going to be trouble. Granted I am a mechanic so I tend to notice things I know are likely to be problematic, but this sort of thing is disappointing I reckon because it is so time consuming to rectify. Considering the effort they have in the belt and drive not to mention the price of the kit, why can't they just do it right once instead of leaving it to the consumer to grumble? It's not good for their reputation, the consumer gets annoyed - it's all just so, well, um, I don't know, unnecessary. I'd happily sacrifice 15hp if the belt didn't whip like this. It's not good enough!

@TheHorsepowerMonster - Did you end up opening the piston ring gaps for this blower, or no since you're only pushing 5lbs of boost. Pretty tame boost levels, even on a stock ring gap.