Printing in My Darkroom - Part 1

I've always wanted to document how I worked in the darkroom, but my video camera couldn't show anything...
This new camera works pretty well under the red safelight. I try to explain why and how I do things. I hope it helps those of you wanting to get into film photography.

Пікірлер: 18

  • @Ozmmik
    @Ozmmik2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Timi for this video! I was waiting for this 🙂

  • @asalewis290
    @asalewis290 Жыл бұрын

    Loved this. Thank you

  • @HeapsMad
    @HeapsMad4 ай бұрын

    very cool

  • @ardayunuk
    @ardayunuk2 жыл бұрын

    Nice video. You should post more darkroom videos :) Maybe some dodging and burning and zone system included videos in dark room. Thanks :)

  • @timihall930

    @timihall930

    2 жыл бұрын

    My channel has videos covering how I use the zone system and the videos on film masking show how I can avoid relying on dodging for the most part.

  • @sergiomelendez2006
    @sergiomelendez20069 ай бұрын

    Hello, I'm Sergio, a photography student at the image center in Lima, Peru. I am studying the sixth cycle of my degree, in this cycle I have a final course that includes the making of a non-fiction short film on a topic that I like. And something that has marked me since I started studying photography was knowing the darkroom and everything that can be done there, apart from the fact that it is a new understanding in the creation of the image. I would appreciate if we could do an interview via zoom in which we would talk about your experience in the darkroom and how you see this technique developing in the future to be able to include certain parts in my video project.

  • @iNerdier
    @iNerdier Жыл бұрын

    I notice you're doing this all wet, do you account for 'dry down' at all or is that not a problem for you?

  • @timihall930

    @timihall930

    Жыл бұрын

    Yes, in one of my videos... not sure which one, I demonstrate how I take a final test strip and then I place it into hypo eliminator and then I tone it in selenium and then I microwave the test print for 2 minutes and then I bring it to my Macbeth viewing station. So I address both the toning and dry down effect before I make the final print. Certain papers have more dry down effects than others.

  • @tedcrosby9361
    @tedcrosby936111 ай бұрын

    I like to play Wagner when I’m printing!

  • @serhiychuk9069
    @serhiychuk90692 жыл бұрын

    From video it goes that you use 1 bath fix for final serie of prints. Timi, what is your personal opinion on this subject from archival properties of prints view?

  • @timihall930

    @timihall930

    2 жыл бұрын

    I learned to use fresh rapid fix long ago... back in the 1980s. Ansel was still recommending 2 regular hypo baths. He was the one who recommended stack processing and stack fixing. Back in 1981 I made a dozen 11x14 prints that were numbered. I did it as Ansel recommended in his book. I framed 3 of them and had them up on the walls. One in my bedroom, one in my office at work, and one in my studio where I did my music. After 35 years, one of them had a stain show up in the white border area. That's when I read about one archivist who worked for a museum. He said that of the many hundreds of black and white prints he handled, interestingly, only 2 had stains show up after a few years. Both were by Ansel. Rapid fix works fine but it has to be fairly fresh. That's why I check my fixer by fixing clearing film in less than a minute. Film is more difficult to fix than paper because of the large amount of silver in film emulsions. So if the fixer fixes film in a minute's time, then I know the paper is fixed. I actually use old fixer to fix my sheet film because i can see the clearing on film. Paper doesn't show this. Of course, after film clears, you still need to fix it for another minute before it is done. Since using rapid fix I haven't had a problem. I learner though that you need to get the fixer out of the print before toning.

  • @serhiychuk9069

    @serhiychuk9069

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@timihall930 If that is a 2 bath rapid (ammonium thio) - fixer wouldn't it still be fewer silver salts left in the print? Or that is more of a religious type than practical?

  • @TaiChiBeMe

    @TaiChiBeMe

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@serhiychuk9069 The unexposed silver must be completely removed from the paper otherwise it will be "retained" silver. Retained silver will brown over time as the silver reacts to light. Basically, once all the unexposed silver is removed by a single tray of fresh rapid fix, you no longer need to fix it any longer. This is why Ilford recommends only 1 minute. They assume that the photograph is completely fixed and you don't need to over wash the print to remove fixer since it was only in the tray for one minute. The silver that remains in the print is the silver that was reduced from the silver salts and comprised the actual image. That image will last hundreds of years.

  • @serhiychuk9069

    @serhiychuk9069

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@TaiChiBeMe Amount of retained silver in the print can't physically be lower than in the fixer. After the first prossessed print that is not close to zero anymore. After every new fixed print it becomes more and more. These are facts. Another question - how important these concentrations for real life and measurable problems with longevity. From a distilled cold thinking second bath with zero resolved silver concentration would avoid these problems completelly. If these problems exist at all. :)

  • @TaiChiBeMe

    @TaiChiBeMe

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@serhiychuk9069 I'm not sure about all that. All I know is what I've witnessed. I think that it takes time to show any retained silver. Kodak used that term because so many labs did not replenish their bleach fix enough... or their volume of work was not enough to keep their chemistry alive. In any case, I've seen stains show up only after years of being displayed.