PrePhylloxera Wines - Tasting the Difference
Ungrafted Vines - what is the impact on the wine?
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I use this wine key: Forge de Laguiole Ebony
I have used this glass in this Video: Nude Glass Powerful Reds
I have tasted the following wines in this Video:
2022 Sermann Altenahr Eck Wurzelechte Riesling, Germany, Ahr
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2019 Bodegas Naia-Vina Sila 'Naiades', Rueda, Spain
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2022 De Martino Viejas Tinajas Cinsault, Itata Valley, Chile
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2021 Langmeil Winery 'The Freedom 1843' Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australia
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The 100 Point Scoring System (from www.robertparker.com):
96-100: An extraordinary wine of profound and complex character displaying all the attributes expected of a classic wine of its variety. Wines of this caliber are worth a special effort to find, purchase and consume.
90 - 95: An outstanding wine of exceptional complexity and character. In short, these are terrific wines.
80 - 89: A barely above average to very good wine displaying various degrees of finesse and flavor as well as character with no noticeable flaws.
70 - 79: An average wine with little distinction except that it is soundly made. In essence, a straightforward, innocuous wine.
60 - 69: A below-average wine containing noticeable deficiencies, such as excessive acidity and/or tannin, an absence of flavor or possibly dirty aromas or flavors.
50 - 59: A wine deemed to be unacceptable.
Over the millennia wine has encountered many threads and challenges. However, its biggest challenge could have upended viticulture as we know it around the world. In the middle of the 19th century plants from the new world were all the rage in Europe and thousands of tons were imported into France alone.
They were planted into the gardens of the elites to study them and to show off with those collections. No one noticed the stowaways - little insects and diseases that were imported alongside the plants at the time. One of them was particularly dangerous to Vitis Vinifera vines and that insect is called Phylloxera.
According to the Oxford Companion to Wine the first report of Phylloxera was in England in 1863 by an Oxford University Professor. When vineyards started dying at the end of the 1860s it was already too late. The little insect has spread across the vineyards of the old world leaving a trail of destruction. Phylloxera has a complex life cycle but the damage mainly occurs when the female 1mm small louse is feeding on the sap of the vines underground.
The feeding itself is not the problem but the European Vitis Vinifera varieties have not developed resistance to the bacteria and fungi that enter the vine through the feeding wounds. American varieties built up resistance as they coexisted alongside the pest. They developed a corky layer below the wounds that protected them from microbes entering the plant. The wine production in France fell by over 70% from 1875 to 1889 and winemakers tried exceedingly desperate methods to control phylloxera. Flooding showed some positive effects but it wasn’t an option in many areas that did not have access to enough water or for vineyards on slopes.
Another popular treatment was pumping carbon bisulfide into the soil. This procedure killed off Phylloxera but also everything else and in some cases destroyed the vines. In the end, salvation came in the form of grafting the vitis vinifera vines onto an American rootstock.
Grafting works like this: an American rootstock is selected for its characteristics and its ability to cope in the location you want to plant it in - tolerance for drought and ability to survive in chalky soils are for example factors that can be taken into consideration.
A cutting of a European vitis vinifera vine - like Chardonnay, Riesling, or Sangiovese is then attached to those roots. At a nursery, they grow together over time, and they can then be planted in the vineyard. Back in the 19th century, many vignerons were concerned whether grafting the vines onto a foreign plant would impact the quality of their vines or impart the weird foxy flavors of the American vines into our wines.
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All the wines of Santorini are pre-phylloxera because phylloxera can't survive on the volcanic soil (it has a very low organic matter content). I think everyone should try a good assyrtiko from Santorini at some point, because they usually have an impressive combination of acidity, full body, concentration and minerality. One of the best white wines I've ever tried.
@MattFank
Ай бұрын
Can't agree more, assyrtiko is a great varietal, and Santori is its home, though even on Santorini, there is some noticeable difference due to terroir over the island.
@pmbirmingham
Ай бұрын
SIGLAS Assyrtiko is one of the best wine values, although Hatzidakis I’ve found excellent the wine retailers stocks are always four times overpriced.
@robdielemans9189
Ай бұрын
Interesting, because if I can recall correctly they also have a distinctive and very nice touch of salinity.
@pmbirmingham
Ай бұрын
@@robdielemans9189 yes I agree. The city Lisbon outskirts Colares vineyards (white Malvasia) have these salinity characteristics too.
@carlosmoreirarodrigues7729
Ай бұрын
The same for Colares wines (near Lisbon Portugal) for the same reason, but diferent soil: sand.
Interesting post. Again, showcasing how much wine making is so complex. Thank you. I’ve had a fair amount of old vine (75 to 130 years old) from several countries, and in my opinion, the complexity and quality is higher. I’d think, due to the concentration and attention those grapes get since they are such a valuable resource, where literally multiple generations have spent cultivating them, there would be extra care and attention given to produce a quality wine.
If you get the chance try wines from Colares in Portugal . Trenches are dug into the sandy soil and vines are grown directly from the mother plant . Another good example is Nacional vintage port made by Quinta do noval you can taste regular vintage ports made by them and compare them to Nacional of the same vintage . If you wish to go further afield the Island of Pico in the Azores has ancient ungrafted vines .
2021 was a dream vintage in South Australia. It's good to see an Australian wine in your video. I'm not fussed about root stocks. In my opinion, the roots take in water and nutrients so should make no difference to quality.
There's a wine called Coche from Nieport made from PrePhylloxera wines and it is a true revelation.
Great topic! Also we must remember that wineries need to be profitable. So if a winery survives for almost 200 years, it *might* simply be exceptional hence most of the other pre-phylloxera competitors were worse.
I've become quite a fan of your channel Konstantin, and even then this video has to be one of the best you have made IMO. The excellent and concise presentation of a very necessary part of wine history, then the simple and often humourous approach. And the excellent wines selected for you to taste, with your quite educational notes on them. I correctly guessed 3 of your scores btw before you said them(!), and feel I have learned so much from you in such a short time, thank you.
Excellent video as always!!
Your knowledge of wine and all it’s intricacies is astounding. Another great tasting MV Baum!!
recently had Ermes Pavese - De Morgex Et De La Salle 2022 from the Valle d'Aosta region in Italy that is so high up in the mountains that phylloxera never reached the region. Incredible alpine white!
Great video once again Konstantin. I find this salinity present on a lot of Atlantic wines here in Portugal (Alentejo coastal and Colares), as well as the volcanic ones from Santorini (Asyrtiko) and Azores (Arinto), but now that you mentioned it, I really remember tasting it from mainland wines like white ‘old vines’ ones from the Douro… interesting!
Great video. Very informative. While I knew about the phylloxera I didn't know as much as you conveyed. I always prefer old vine wines but never really stopped to think about the phylloxera grafting component as it potentially relates to the quality of the pre-phylloxera to the post phylloxera vines and their wine quality. Thanks for another great show.
On a somewhat similar theme, how about a video on wines that are naturally difficult to grow but have persisted nonetheless? For example, the beautifully floral (in aroma and flavor) Lacrima whose grapes tend to split, hence the name (teardrop). It doesn't like being grafted to American rootstocks, so it was almost completely killed off by phylloxera. It's quickly become one of my favorites and I wish more people knew about it! On the topic of floral wines, I'd also enjoy a video on some of these, such as Lacrima, Ruché, Fleurie (Gamay), etc. Great video as always!
Really interesting. I have heard much on the effect of phylloxera on Portuguese wine, port itself being a focus somewhat. With wine, and other cultural things sometimes it's the unanswerable questions that are the most rewarding. Nice one Konstantin! 🍷🌟👍
Großartiges Video. Ich habe gerade gesehen, dass wir nächste Woche eine Masterclass mit Dir in Düsseldorf haben! 🎉🎉🎉 Da freue ich mich sehr
Hi Konstantin, great video about Phylloxera. Did you think about doing a video about training the nose to recognize the aromas? I think, coming from you, would be really helpful for people like me, trying to learn more about wine. Thank you
Cirillo in Barossa make single vineyard Grenache and Semillon planted in 1848, potentially the oldest surviving vines of their variety in the world. Retailing at $70 and $50 respectively they're an outrageous bargain. The Semillons (originally called Madeira or Shephard's Riesling in Aus) are elegant with herbaceous and mineral character, usually around 10-11% Alcohol. There's a wealth of old vines in Aus that are finally becoming appreciated by modern winemakers. The fact that these vines have been producing fruit year in, year out for 176 years is quite mind blowing, when you think of how much the world we live in has changed since 1848. Just imagine the root system on these things!
@jerrysmith8762
Ай бұрын
Turkey flat Shiraz in the barossa is 1847 they marketed it as before the American civil war ! Makes you think. In urban Adelaide there are grenache and Shiraz vines in Marion from 1907.
@MattFank
Ай бұрын
@@jerrysmith8762 these grapes go into making the Turkey Flat Shiraz, however, in exceptional years they will produce the Ancestor Shiraz from fruit wholely from those vines, the last vintage produced was 2016, I believe?
Very nice and interesting video!
Not having Phylloxera has provided regions the opportunity to maintain older vines which potentially can produce high-quality fruit (being mindful that older vines are kept when they are producing quality fruit) and fortunately for Australia we have the oldest Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Semillon vines in the world, now up to 180+ years old. I think it really comes down to age of the vines rather than grafted vs ungrafted, and there are plenty of Australian vineyards where you can taste wines from grafted and ungrafted vines side by side.
@Yeoldelole
Ай бұрын
Excellent comment. Have you ever tasted those side-by-side as you mentioned? I’m sure we would all love to hear about it. If so!
@minka8047
Ай бұрын
1843 is an amazing shiraz, Australia classifies wine based on ages .100 year plus vines I think are classified ancestor wines. there's always the great debate here on how good old vines are, wineries that have access swear by them.
@MattFank
Ай бұрын
@@minka8047 The Barossa Valley has established what is known as the old vine charter to classify old vines; Old vines: 35 years or older; Survivor vines: 70 years or older; Centenarian vines: 100 years or older; Ancestor vines: 125 years or older
@MattFank
Ай бұрын
@@Yeoldelole probably the most notable example is Henschke's Hill of Grace Vineyard. This 4ha single vineyard was plated with Shiraz in 1860 and produces one of Australia's most iconic wines, 'Hill of Grace'. In 1986 a couple of new blocks were added with genetic material taken from the original grandfather vines, from which the 'Hill of Roses' is produced. The stand out for me, with all else being pretty much even, is that 'Hill of Grace' produced from the older vines tend to exhibit much softer tannins than the younger vines that produce the 'Hill of Roses'.
@minka8047
Ай бұрын
@ MattFrank Killikanoons Attunga which was planted in 1865 is probably a cheaper to drink for a comparison. At 800 dollar minimum Hill of Grace is a tad experience for just a comparison
I had the privilege of tasting 2010 and 2020 Liber Pater and it was phenomenal, the wine was increadibly fresh, lively and superbly complex.
thank you PROFESSOR ! I (for once) have no snarky funny comments .just admiration for your expertise and manner of presentation!. (it was "in my face") cheers !!!😝
Hi Konstantin .. another good video!! I was in Hamburg just last week. Couldn’t find you, than went on to Bremen. Than went on to Munster and results were the same, couldn’t locate you .. 🤪😜😝?! Where are you hiding?!? What do you think of hybrid wines? And when will you do a review of Jordan wines? Thanks!! 🍷
On mount Etna in Sicily there are very old vines ungrafted , trained as bush vines that are used to do Etna red and white
I love Langmeil's "Orphan bank" shiraz, but haven't had a chance to try their flagship "The freedom", I'd expect it to be fantasitc, but in desperate need of some serious cellar time for a 2021.
As a hobby, I collect franc de pied wines. They make up a little corner of my cellar. On that note, I feel that it is more of an emotional experience. In Barolo, Cappellano makes a " Pie Franco" from the same vineyard as their normal cuvee and the vines are grafted. Teobaldo would say that Pie franco is a bit of. a time machine in the sense that it tastes like the Barolo that his grandfather used to drink. It is a way of being with the ancestors. When tasting side by side, the grafted vineyard expresses a more elegant and seductive side to Barolo where the wines made from American rootstock is a bit more broad shoulder. side note - I love the franc du pied from Les Bretons in the Loire. It is a really great wine, just very difficult to find.
The Freedom Shiraz is an absolute game changer! We went to a wine masterclass and they cracked one open & talked about how not just the vines are 180 years old but the SOIL the vines are in is millions of years old. Blew our minds
Certain vineyards from Etna in Sicily survived Phylloxera due to the volcanic soil. You can find patches of 140+ year old PrePhylloxera vines next to 100+ year old grafted vines. Tenuta delle Terre Nere is a good example
Interesting exploration.
Hey Konstantin! Could you do a future video comparing the intenseness of toastiness in white wines? I've noticed that I can't yet pick up blind super high quality puligny/chassagne white wines' toastiness vs cheaper Chilean/Australian/Spanish/South African toasted/buttery chardonnay wines. Only American chardonnay is distinct with american oak. Thanks
AMAZING Topic ! I love it!! pretty nerdy tho to be honest 😅
very good subject
Konstantin, you should try Quinta do Noval, on Douro, which vinards are pre-philoxera. Try the Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage 2011 or 2017. Further south in the Colares area, in Sintra, you will find sand-based wines whose Ramisco and Malvasia de Colares varieties are planted/buried in sandy ground and are also pre-phylloxera. Good tastings! Cheers.
Try some of the pre-phylloxera wine from Etna, Sicily. Mainly single vineyard Nerello Mascalese, grown up to 1000mt up the slopes of active volcano Etna. They are exceptional.
Try the pre phylloxera Barbera made by Valter Fissore of Elvio Cogno - delicious. And Thibault Liger Belair makes a tiny production Moulin a Vent which is also excellent
I’ve tasted that Ancestor vines Langmile shiraz next to Paul Hobbs CabSauv. Unbelievably great experience. They are all just monumentally delicious!
Hi Konstantin, any advice on the Bordeaux 2023 primeurs ? Best value for money ?
An interesting comparison between grafted and ungrafted are the wines of the St. Jodern winery in Valais from the highest vineyard in Europe. They produce various wines from Heida (Savagnin Blanc), the ungrafted one from hundred-year-old vines is called Veritas.
Other notable areas with significant plantings of own-rooted vines: Toro, Amynteo, Campi Flegrei, Vesuvio, the Canary Islands, Lodi, Columbia Valley, and nearly all of Argentina.
We should do an experiment : lets say taking bunches from a 20 years old vine ungrafted and bunches from a 20 y old vine same clone same vineyard . Then do wine separately insame cellar same winemaking , then try the final wine and taste the real if existent differences
I believe that rootstocks can affect flowering and ripening time, drought resistance, etc. So, they could have an effect on the finished wine, until growers & winemakers get used to these effects. I agree with a couple of posters who say that ungrafted vines are usually older vines that are apt to produce smaller crops with more concentrated flavors. I'll bet that this has more effect than grafting on resistant rootstock. JMO.
What does it say on that pitcher Konstantin? "... muesch ... mit suffe"
I found in Romania , here and there some pre Phylloxera vines !
You should also give a try to Casa Castillo Pie Franco , Luis Pato Pé Franco and Colares 🎉
In particularly steep sites on the Mosel (e.g. Ürziger Würzgarten) there are still a lot of ungrafted vines. Perhaps the high quality of the wines is due to this, but of course it is difficult to prove.
Would that be one of the takeaways, that the heritage of noble older vines and the pedigree they bore was sadly lost in affected regions? And that today, we’re still at that transitional crossroads until we regain such a repository once more. What were the oldest vines that were grafted at that point of historical crisis ?
As I age I find my body chemistry fails to approve of red wines well so I am limited to white wines. My target area has ranged from the dry white Loire to the lush sauvignon of New Zealand. I love your programmes Konstantin but could you also publish a list of the wines you are tasting/ My budget is set at £25 but I will go higher if the wine demands.
@CrimeVid
Ай бұрын
How odd that is, my body does not appreciate white wines, I can never drink more than one glass of white without risking heartburn !
In la mancha there are lots of pre phylloxera because its so arid they cant live there
Australia’s stubborn insistence on calling Syrah, “Shiraz” is, from the point of view of the retailer and consumer, one of the most frustrating things in wine.
@patavinity1262
Ай бұрын
Oh God, I hate this so much too! It has nothing to do with the true Shiraz. It's just a stupid marketing gimmick that for some reason has become an accepted part of the wine business, even though, as you point out, the end result is just confusion on the part of the consumer. If the Islamist régime in Iran ever collapses, and they try to rebuild their once-famous wine industry, I hope they'll do their best to take back the name 'Shiraz' from Australia.
La Revue du Vin de France (october 2022) made a side by side tasting of 16 «francs de pieds» and «greffés» wines from the same producers same vintage and almost same vineyards. The results are interesting.
please do a tasting of some 'bucket list' natural wines like pierre overnoy or prieure roch!
Have you ever tried Liber Pater?
Very interesting, it's a mystery
How do you know by reading the bottle that the wine comes from un grafted vines?
@ecmo11
Ай бұрын
You don't, unless it's explicitly stated, usually on the back label. There is no official term you can look for, and no requirement to state anything regarding root stock for the vines from which the wine came.
Fun tasting! Can't imagine anything conclusive is possible since you'd have to have rootstock non-resistent next to, literally, resistent rootstock, with the same processes, in quantity. But please explain why no one seems to address the winemaker. The winemaker is in the pole position, and makes choices that absolutely changes the character of a wine. That and gender preferences, both seem to be unaddressed area in wine analysis. But thank you! I like this channel for the probing!
@KonstantinBaumMasterofWine
Ай бұрын
I agree. In the end the winemaker has the biggest impact on the wine.
Interesting!
Nice
As far as tasting the post- and pre- for comparison, I just don't have the experience to have an opinion. But from my reading, I do have the suspicion that when root stocks were being chosen, the farmers, because they were farmers, tended to choose root stocks that increased production. If two tons is good then five tons would be better, right? Trying to get reliable production was nearly everything before our present day when there is a much greater emphasis on quality as the thing that makes your wine stand out from the crowd. This might also explain why vines that are older than thirty years and have naturally started to produce less grapes, are so valued. Higher quality will generally mean a higher price per bottle as the wine consumers find those wines as we are always looking around, right?
Is it actually called PrePhylloxera or should it not be called Extra-Phylloxera? Cause the former refers to vines from before Phylloxera ever appeared in vineyards, when only the last wine predates the outbreak. While the latter refers to vines unaffected by the disease and therefor aren't grafted.
Off topic but review of vermouths?
❤
Foxy flavours 😂
A touch of bacon fat….thats a new one for me. Need to try!
fun fact: first group of people who suggested American rootstocks to fight against Phylloxera were evolutionists
@pmbirmingham
Ай бұрын
No good deed goes unpunished!
Can someone dumb down the science of grafting for me? How does "blending" the vine you want for the wine e.g. a European Cabernet Sauvignon, with another vine purely used to avoid Phylloxera work? How come the fruit only takes on the characteristic of the vine you want and not the one used for disease control?
@yodamaster445
Ай бұрын
Basically, the variety you graft on is the root of the plant, the grafted variety (eg Cabernet Sauvignon) is the leaves and fruit. Phylloxera attacks only the root of european varieties, so by that you have a philloxera-resistant root, with quality european fruit
@hellomoto170
Ай бұрын
@@yodamaster445 But how does the root variety not influence the fruit and leaves? I appreciate I have very little knowledge of the biology / science behind this so please excuse the stupidity!
@yodamaster445
Ай бұрын
@@hellomoto170Basically, the root only takes water & nutrients out of the soil, while the leafs and fruits are producing the sugar, and all the other aromatic compounds in the grape
The Arabs and Ottomans destroyed all vineyards in Israel during the islamic occupation and colonisation of the Land (635-1920), making all indigenous grape varieties go extinct. Starting with the British occupation (1920-1948) and continuing with the decolonisation (1948-today), grapes began being planted again to restart Jewish wine production, with syrah being particularly adapted to the soil. Considering grafting isn't kosher, now I'm curious as to whether the muslims, in their violent attempt at erasing Jewish history and culture from Israel, ironically ended up saving our wines from this bug.
PrePhyloxxera is not a flavour note!