Just finished the same. This video was a HUGE help thank you.

Thank you. Your video help me a lot. Just finished

Just did a similar job, you can get at this without drilling the rivets. Those large 4 silver bolts 2 at each end of the door and the two larger black bolts at the door jam next to the door lock need to come out then you lift the whole DUC out. Much easier than drilling out the rivets

@whuop-wadeshumbleopinion625

6 жыл бұрын

Agreed, I did the same thing to replace the window regulator on mine for the same from passenger door in my video. Drilling out the rivets is unnecessary. Once those 4 are out the whole thing can be removed. I shoulda video'd the process I did, but yes it is that simple.

@mrman880

5 жыл бұрын

how were u able to unplug the electrical connector next to the door handle

@angusthompsonCardio

2 жыл бұрын

@@mrman880 that is my question!? Old thread wondering if I need to drill out rivets or can disconnect the wiring somehow without?

@_ARUS_

Жыл бұрын

Hi Frederick, Can you please elaborate, I'm only replacing the window (not the regulator) so I assume with your approach I remove the 6 mentioned bolts and lift up the inner part of the door (metal frame and leather panel) exposing the bigger door frame (which has the window frame) and that would allow me to access the window from the outside as apposed to the rivets removal method which allows access to the window from the inside, is that a correct assumption?

@frederickcook87

Жыл бұрын

@@_ARUS_ look the door over carefully, you do not have to drill the rivets out

Thanks for the video

My left rear passenger window doesn’t work and I got the panel off, hoping the regulator was under the first panel but since it wasn’t and watching your video has made me make sure my air conditioner is working because I am not going to do all the work you did🥴

Top man

Thanks

Blimey! Worse than I thought. Brilliant helpful video, might keep it now. By the way you've got a double, uncanny. If I said his name was spelt the Scottish way?

Could you please help me. I have a 2004 Porsche Cayenne and when I roll the window down or up there’s a bad click. Is that the window regulator

Oi @Fronky, nice work filming all this up. Curious about your thoughts - on 955 CTT, I have an occasional higher pitched plasticky rattle coming from near the side mirror when going over bumps, or "grainy" asphalt. As you've been in the door panel neck deep, perhaps you have a thought on whether there is something in there, that can slightly loosen in a way to develop an "impact-rattle"? I closely eye-balled a couple of video frames of the door panel, but it's hard to tell from remote. So thought I'd ask before I go wreck my trim!

@LehoKraav

Жыл бұрын

OMG it was the metal keyring rattling against key fob body! Replaced with silicone cable tie, silence!

Thanks for the video. I am in the process of doing the same challenge and without a teacher it would be a lot harder. I am stock on the pop rivet choice. Should I use aluminium or steel rivets. I would appreciate Your input.

@F120NKY

3 жыл бұрын

My advice is to use rivnuts rather than rivets. Means you can simply unscrew them if you ever need to remove the panel again in the future, rather than drilling them out.

Hello. Thanks for the video. Pls can you explain more how u did the twisting to get tensions on both sides of the wires

@F120NKY

5 жыл бұрын

Paul Iroha - hi. It was tricky and required some assistance from my neighbour to help put tension on the springs. The technique was to wrap the barrel with the wire as much as possible and cable tie it into place. Then with a detached slider, rotate it to further apply tension as you clip it over the rail. There is a technique to it, but it is easy enough with the extra pair of hands and the right twisting on the slider block.

@pauliroha5506

5 жыл бұрын

@@F120NKY Thanks. I have been able to compress the two springs maximally and put a tie wrap in the gear to prevent it from falling. I am stuck on how to twist the wires so that I can get a good tension. But have not been able to. I have followed the direction of your hand when you were explaining how to do that in the video but cannot still get it.

@F120NKY

5 жыл бұрын

Paul Iroha - it is tricky, but you need and extra pair of hands to compress the springs whilst you put the wire ends into the block, then twist it tight and slide it into the runner. You’ll get it, it’s just very fiddly.

i have a question the glass should be up or down if i did this process of replacing regulator without drilling the rivets i think no matter up or down i am right or wrong guys ???

How were you able to unplug the electrical connector attached to the door lock. I cant seem to get it off with ease and im afraid of breaking it.

@F120NKY

5 жыл бұрын

Force of nature - from memory, they travel through the metal panel and all plug into a single unit with multiple plugs. A little finesse and brute force combined did the job if I remember correctly. Sorry I can’t be more help.

Thank you for sharing. I’m in middle of this job. What a PITA. Did you replace the rivets with new rivets?

@F120NKY

5 жыл бұрын

warriorsf911 - I replaced the rivets with rivnuts. Makes it much easier for the next time. No drilling. I’ve had to do this again recently after the barrel screw broke.

@warriorsf911

5 жыл бұрын

Fronky I bought the whole assembly with the rails. The rails also looks to also have 4 rivets. Such a bad design by VW.

@F120NKY

5 жыл бұрын

warriorsf911 - I’ve never bothered with the rails, more work for little gain if they don’t need replacing. I’ve done the job a few times now for others too and it gets easier each time you do it. My latest tip is to make sure the wires are even lengths and pack out the wire cap with something to extend its length to ensure your window shuts square. I’ve done a couple where the wires are the wrong length and it either won’t close properly or leaves a gap in the top corner. Needs some adjustment. Close the window fully and ensure the cables are equal amounts of tight/slack on both sides.

At the 10 mins mark you should say "Luke I am your father" lol

@F120NKY

3 жыл бұрын

Lol, I was very under the weather when I filmed this, so breathing was tricky. But I will keep that in mind next time.

I never heard what your solution was to should the window be up or down when you replaced the motor. Or did it matter?

@F120NKY

Жыл бұрын

If you are drilling out the rivets, then I suggest you keep the glass as far away from your drill bit, so be prepared to pull it up or down as required. Once you left the frame out, the glass comes with it, and at that stage up or down is irrelevant. Hope that helps.

Can you unmount the whole glass with the frame without drilling and remove the metal part behind the door cover

@F120NKY

4 жыл бұрын

Theoretically yes, this is possible, but a struggle to achieve due to wires/cables. I have never tried this approach, but I am aware that it is possible. You would need to unscrew the lower part of the metal panel in order to get your hand behind to push the window actuator drum into place before attaching the motor.

@hirinhu

4 жыл бұрын

@@F120NKY hi! in my cayenne i feel like the glass is loose, when you close the door for example I can hear the glass shaking inside the door, could you explain how to fix this problem? thank you so much!!

@F120NKY

4 жыл бұрын

Diário de um TURBEIRO by hirinhu - sounds like the material in the sliders has warn away or come loose. Check the spacing around the glass, if all is tight and the glass Is firmly in place, then lower the glass half way and repeat. Could be something loose in the door making a noise, but if the glass is loose then it will be related to the sliders or the brackets used to attach the window mechanism to the glass inside the door.

@hirinhu

4 жыл бұрын

@@F120NKY thanks for you reply! is something related to this www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-CAYENNE-Fensterheber-Reparatursatz-Vorne-Hinten-Links-Rechts-NEU/112206048157?fits=Model%3ACayenne&hash=item1a20006b9d:g:MGQAAOSwSxRb2WSn

Ty for the video. Can cut the first 2:00. Just noise. Just trying to be constructive.

Anyone know why the rivet holes needed drilling? Something about size matching for rivet gun? Thank you.

@F120NKY

3 жыл бұрын

The rivers themselves need drilling out in order to remove the plate that covers the door. Ive since replaced mine with rivnuts to make it easier to remove in the future.

@ru15151

3 жыл бұрын

@@F120NKY Thank you Sir! I'm trying to make sure I've bought the right rivet gun for the actual rivet and what is the actual size of the rivet? I seem to remember you had to go bigger because of the gun? I see mine does 6.4mm but not 6mm. Have you the details for the rivnuts too please?

@F120NKY

3 жыл бұрын

@@ru15151 - I don’t recall the exact size, but 6mm sounds about right. You can drill the holes slightly bigger if you have larger rivets. There aren’t that many, only half a dozen or so to lock it back in. You could get away not riveting it and just holding it in place with the primary bolts. It’s just useful to position the sheet first, get one of the top rivets or rivnuts in place, then work the door seal into place, then tighten the whole things down.

@ru15151

3 жыл бұрын

@@F120NKY I've got the rivet part number and spent hours to find it's actual size to no avail! Did you have to go back in on the job hence the rivnuts. I notice yours is CTT and wondered if it has twin glazing as with mine, hence heavier & possibly up rated regulator components. Just a thought pre checking parts list. By the way on the strength of your video I'm going to chicken out and by the pre assembled regulator. At £47 I'll live with that.

@F120NKY

3 жыл бұрын

@@ru15151 if you go a full regulator (with sliders) then you do need specific width and length rivets to attach the runners to the frame. I do have a CTT and it does have double glazed glass. I have had to go back in a couple of times to resolve various issues, so was glad of the rivnuts instead of rivets.

What size pop rivets do you use on this job + what size torx bits will i need - i have same problem on passenger side front - Thanks

@allisatum4081

6 жыл бұрын

also whats the ebay sellers name for the parts

@F120NKY

6 жыл бұрын

Good afternoon Robert. I will try and summarise the tools used here: ## Torx ## - T10 (remove door card (along the bottom of the door card)) - T25 (remove glass from regulator runners) - T30 (remove door card and metal inner skin) - T45 (remove bolts holding in the frame) ## Pop Rivets ## - x4 6mm Pop Rivets (larger style gun needed for 5mm and above) - x2 3mm pop rivets for either end (smaller standard pop rivet gun used (max is 4.8mm I believe) I was tempted to use threaded rivet nuts that can accept a bolt to make future removal easier, but this would have pushed the door skin away from the door slightly and I decided to go with what I had, and the hope I don't have to remove it again. ## Other Tools ## - Plastic trim removal tools (remove door card trim panels) - Drill (remove old pop rivets) - 6mm metal drill bit (be careful not to hit the glass if its inside the door) - Metal Cutters (to remove the back of the pop rivets connected to the plastic plate near the locking mechanism) - Clip removal pliers (really useful for removing clips and trim without damaging them and for popping the window drum in the door skin) - Cable Ties (hold in the cable drum after winding) - Thread Lock (to lock in the bolts as they go back in. May not be required ) - Jack (support the door frame whilst the frame has been removed. May not be required. Also handy for holding the door card during tests) - Grease (to grease the runners for smooth up and down action) - WD40 (cleaning and lubricating) - Vacuum Cleaner (to remove metal filings to avoid short-circuiting anything) - Methylated Spirits (to clean the glass to remove grease/dirt etc) - Someone to help you put tension on the drum springs whilst you twist the slider block onto the runner to take up the tension (this was the only part that was a two person job) - Patience - 2.5 hours I didn't use a torque wrench through any of this work. I'm sure torque settings can be found online, but I just tightened everything to within sensible tolerances. Hope this helps. Regards Ian

@allisatum4081

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks Ian

@F120NKY

6 жыл бұрын

I put the link for the regulator in the description, but here it is: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PORSCHE-CAYENNE-SUV-WINDOW-REGULATOR-REPAIR-KIT-FRONT-RIGHT-2002-2014-UK-DRIVER Not sure if the link will last forever and this is for the front right, sounds like you are after the front left

@allisatum4081

6 жыл бұрын

My kit has arrived today, but no springs were included in kit ? mine is for passenger door

Hi Fronky Great Video, I am doing my drivers window, i got it all set up and back In position but the window would not go all the way up but went all the way down and had a loud grinding nose from the wheel off the wires, is there a certain position the motor should have been in as you said you did not know if your window should be up or down to start with, any help would be grateful.

@F120NKY

4 жыл бұрын

philip ward - the motor should stop automatically once it detects the force of the top or bottom, so no presets required. You just need to make sure all the cables went in the correct way round with the correct lengths of cable to each slider (which the window screws into). Is the window straight? Is it jamming on something stopping the window from going all the way to the bottom or top? Could one of the ancillary wires for the electrics be fouling on the window on its way down? Worth checking and let me know what you find.

@philipward2490

4 жыл бұрын

@@F120NKY Hi mate I got it sorted and back working today, the cable with the rubber protection on has one end longer than the other so I changed it around, wired it up and tried it without the glass and worked ok, When it was all in place the window goes down great but is a little bit slow on coming up! But I am happy its working. By the way my car is an 08' Touareg, Cheers.

God these videos are annoying……..Between the background noise and the mumbling I am slowly going mad………….😂

This is precisely why I have a Subaru AWD - I don't ever have to deal with this nonsense. Very painful to watch this.