Pointing Yelllow London Handmade Stocks
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Repointing Old Brickwork: Tips, Techniques, and Common Pitfalls
Repointing old brickwork is a vital maintenance task that can extend the life of a building and improve its aesthetic appeal. Over time, the mortar between bricks can deteriorate due to weathering, age, and environmental factors, making repointing essential for preserving the wall's structural integrity. Here are some detailed hints, tips, and things to avoid when repointing old brickwork.
Understanding Repointing
Repointing involves removing deteriorated mortar from the joints between bricks and replacing it with new mortar. This process enhances the wall's appearance and protects it from moisture ingress, which can cause significant damage over time.
Preparation is Key
Before starting the repointing process, it's crucial to assess the extent of the damage. Identify areas where the mortar is crumbling, missing, or visibly damaged. You might also want to thoroughly inspect the bricks themselves, as damaged bricks will need to be replaced before repointing.
Tools and Materials Needed:
Mortar mix (preferably matching the original in composition and colour)
• Trowel
• Pointing tool
• Chisel and hammer
• Stiff brush
• Water spray bottle
• Hints and Tips for Effective Repointing
Choosing the Right Mortar Mix:
The mortar mix should be compatible with the original mortar to maintain the structural integrity and appearance of the wall. For older buildings, a lime-based mortar is often recommended as it allows the wall to breathe and is more flexible than modern cement-based mortars.
Removing Old Mortar:
Use a chisel and hammer to carefully remove the old mortar to a depth of about 15-20 mm. Avoid using power tools as they can damage the surrounding bricks. It's important to clean out the joints thoroughly to ensure the new mortar adheres properly.
Cleaning the Joints:
After removing the old mortar, clean the joints with a stiff brush to remove any loose debris. Dampen the joints with a water spray bottle to prevent the dry bricks from absorbing moisture from the new mortar too quickly.
Applying New Mortar:
Fill the joints with the new mortar using a pointing tool. Ensure the mortar is packed tightly into the joints and smooth it out to match the existing mortar lines. Work on small sections at a time to prevent the mortar from drying out too quickly.
Finishing Touches:
Once the mortar has set slightly, use a pointing tool to shape the joints and achieve a consistent finish. Brush off any excess mortar with a soft brush before it hardens completely.
Common Pitfalls to Avoid
Using Incompatible Mortar:
One of the biggest mistakes is using a mortar mix that doesn't match the original. Modern cement-based mortars are too rigid for older buildings and can cause the bricks to crack over time. Always opt for a compatible mix, often a lime-based one for historic structures.
Neglecting Weather Conditions:
Avoid repointing in very hot, cold, or wet conditions. Extreme temperatures can affect the mortar’s curing process, leading to poor adhesion and potential failure. Ideally, repointing should be done in mild, dry weather.
Insufficient Joint Depth:
Removing too little of the old mortar can result in a weak bond between the new mortar and the bricks. Ensure you chisel out enough of the old mortar to provide a solid base for the new application.
Overworking the Mortar:
Overworking or overwatering the mortar can weaken its structure. Mix the mortar to the right consistency and apply it carefully to avoid compromising its strength.
Maintenance and Longevity
After repointing, regular inspections are crucial to ensure the mortar remains intact and functional. Address any signs of deterioration promptly to prevent more extensive damage.
Repointing old brickwork requires careful preparation, the right materials, and attention to detail. By following these tips and avoiding common pitfalls, you can preserve the beauty and integrity of your brickwork for many years to come. Properly maintained brickwork not only enhances the appearance of your property but also ensures its structural soundness and longevity.
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#diy #repointing #brickwork
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Пікірлер: 54
It's great when you see a craftsperson at work, especially when they are paying great attention to what they are doing. Well done! 😊👍
Did alot of weather struck pointing years ago .They say good pointing makes bad brickwork look good,and bad pointing makes good brickwork look bad.Always used a pointing trowel and a hawk .4 /1 soft sand and cement, tiny drop of plasticer .Did your perps first and cut them straight with the pointing trowel, then your bed joints.Used a 3ft piece of 38 mm x12 mm wood strip to cut the bed joint with my pointing trowel, never used a Frenchman. It is a slow process ,but it made the brickwork look great, especially old yellow stocks. 20% of brickwork is mortar. Keep up the good work my friend.
Freshly pointed brickwork looks amazing.Cheers for the vid Roger.
My brother repointed an old building facade from 1879 using lime mortar. It looked great when finished.
So relaxing to watch!!
It's beautiful to watch, I've always marvelled at the lovely straight lines on superior repointing jobs and never realised that something as simple as a length of wood was used. Mind you s getting wood that true isn't always easy these days lol. Driving thorough Cornwall yesterday I was admiring various period houses made from that hard, grey granite and noticed one had been redone in horrible thick cement, sacrilege surely?
Lovely job!!
A beautiful example of “Weather Stuck Pointing “ in was commonplace to scratch out lime mortar from new and point with O.P.C
Relaxing to watch 👍
great pointing
Such patience to complete this job!
@weekendwarrior3420
27 күн бұрын
one needs it on any job to do it properly.
The thumbnail notification title was clever - "What's the point of this?" - but the video doesn't really discuss the answer. That would be an interesting video, why pointing/repointing is needed and when to do it What happens if you neglect it? How long can you delay before major damage occurs? Not kidding, I'd watch that video. The production work on the video was excellent though.
Who needs an academic education, i'm doing just fine, thanks. All year tan with an insulated jacket.
Some great comments on this video 🤙🏾🤙🏾🧱👍🏽
As so often happens we have soine misleading comments coming in from lime warriors who say that sand and cement should never be used on buildings built with lime. It may well be true that using sand and cement to repoint a wall laid with sand and lime mortar can lock in moisture but it is not inevitable. Everything depends on the bricks and Yellow London Stocks were made from surface clays, chalk ,wood ash and even coal dust. The bricks were fired on the surface in clamps rather than kilns. The firing was really a slow burn over weeks and the temperatures were relatively low. This made the bricks highly porous, which means they absorb moisture but also allow it to evaporate rapidly. This is the reason you don't see spalling on yellow London stocks despite the fact that the vast majority of houses in London have been repointed with sand and cement over lime mortar. It is however, true to say that too strong a mix is a problem because houses built on clay are subject to seasonal movement and this is acommodated in the sand and lime mortar. As always the mortar should never be stronger than the bricks.
@SilverTrowel631
27 күн бұрын
Well said. I always use a sand and cement mix but add a little lime. I'm not a 'Lime Warrior' But in it's defence, it does give a little bit of crack resistance, some pliabilty to the mix for a smoother finish and tends to dry a better colour than pure sand/cement mixes. However, limes are produced differently today and I'd personally never use the 3/1/1 mix of old, because I find it drys the mortar to fast and you can get several hairline cracks in the joints. I prefer to use 3/1 and a half of lime and I don't usually get that problem. I would never recommend those lime based putty/mortars that come ready mixed in buckets. They are far too light in colour (It's bloody ugly) and far to weak. I just don't think they'll last long. The problem is some jobs specify that stuff.
@744shinryu
27 күн бұрын
While not entirely incorrect, there are some adjustments. A - the higher porosity of the lime or NHL would through capillary action, draw the water to the mortar, so when it is really cold outside, the mortar fails not the brick - this is a bigger deal than movement. Secondly, why so adamant to say "use cement in certain situations" how about making it straight forward and don't use it on old buildings, or even better, be specific, natural cement or something. When you say cement, it really means portland, and it was unlikely the person you recorded made a weak mix, its harder to get a mix right for cement to be weak enough instead of just using NHL 3.5 and some sand, it is bizarre how stubborn you builders are with adapting to facts
@peterthebricky
27 күн бұрын
My old man repointed the side of our house off a ladder in 1960 he was told by an old brickie neighbour keep the mix weak he did and its still there now I tried with the gun found it too slow tried adding lime , plastisiser then like the old brickie on another channel I launched it into the skip you've got to smooth it up with a trowel so,might as well use one to put it on, I don't do enough of it to be fast but my old dad was he'd do a couple of cross joints in one visit to the hawk and a master with the frenchman one flowing stroke
@timstradling7764
26 күн бұрын
I find it easier to run the mortar in direct from an aluminium hawk using the appropriate sized tuck pointer at the correct angle. Strike the bed line using the edge. I also do a fair bit of stone pointing with lime and prefer to work top down so that i can damp down the wall prior to pointing. Obviously impractical if working bottom up. Perps scraped up from hawk and down stroke into joint - easy when working top down😊
@ianhoward4246
25 күн бұрын
That's what I was going to say 😜
Very neat - and he even has a spirit level on his piece of wood!
Can I ask you a serious plumbing question? My Victorian house has 7 bedrooms with wash hand basins, 3 gravity fed showers and 2 kitchens. The hot water is powered by a heat-only Valaint eco-tec 430 boiler heating an immersion cylinder with the old style galvanised tank in the loft. I want to upgrade this system to provide almost limitless hot water. Can you tell me what is the best way to do this? thanks..... I would very much appreciate your opinion on this.
@SkillBuilder
25 күн бұрын
You need to install a cylinder with a very big coil. It need to be a high recovery cylinder and you need to prioritise how water so all the heat from the boiler goes to the cylinder rather than being shared.
@gaugeonesteam
25 күн бұрын
@@SkillBuilder Hey, thanks for your advice!!
In your description you keep saying “in older buildings” with advice. What sort of age are you meaning by this?
@SkillBuilder
27 күн бұрын
Anything over 100 years old. Sand and cement started to be used around 1930 but it was used earlier so you just need to look at the mortar. If you can scratch it out with a nail it probably lime.
I haven't seen any workers like this locally. Most lads are in for a quick buck that's all.
Bottom part of Perps a bit rough need to be blended in with the bed joint
A wall built with lime mortar being repointed with Portland cement. Commonplace but skill builder channel should know better.
@theloniuspunk383
27 күн бұрын
uhm Ackshully it's weather struck and cut pointing
@SkillBuilder
27 күн бұрын
studio.kzread.infozcPtcVziiqo/edit It all depends on the bricks and the strength of the mix. There are thousands of metres of yellow London stocks in London that have been repointed with sand and cement, often quite strong, and you will see zero spalling or damp problems. Try this on red rubbers and you will get spalling but you would also get it if you used NHL 3.1.
@reachforthesky1849
27 күн бұрын
@@SkillBuilder thanks for the reply. I appreciate there may be no visible spalling or internal damp but in my experience there is always a softening on the original lime mortar behind the Portland pointing.
@SkillBuilder
27 күн бұрын
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 Well that is a surprise, like forums supporting the use of lime. 🙂
@lksf9820
27 күн бұрын
@@reachforthesky1849 You don't know how soft the mortar was when it was laid, so how do you know its softened? As to it being cement pointing over lime mortar how do you know? It could well be bedded on cement.
Silk purse out of a pigs ear. Very nice
No good, solid walls need a capillary active non or feebly hydraulic lime mortar so that it can continue to expell moisture, cement will inhibit this and cause problems. It will never be fully dry using opc, its not all about the strength of mortar, there's a lot more going on than that.
what would the old brickie say? ...
@pauldavies8112
27 күн бұрын
Something filled with expletives. But costly, even for cash!
@pauldavies8112
27 күн бұрын
I'm sure he would question whether you were a 'proper tradesman or auditioning for Great British Bake Off!'
@michaelreardon8573
27 күн бұрын
Something scripted
Trimming the fat
That's grouting not pointing. 😮
We could've listened to him talk about his life/work instead of the tossy "music".
This bloke is wearing the wrong colour gloves, you can't point brickwork with those green gloves. Skill Builder is going down the pan showing this crap. Unsubscribe!😄