This is EXCELLENT advice. I planted a tree about 25 years ago whose roots were encircling the trunk and literally strangling it. An arborist advised corrective action to preserve the beautiful, but declining, live oak tree about five years. Believe me, it's much, much cheaper to take corrective action when planting. Also, it's far less traumatic to the tree, though my tree is once again looking great.

@richtomlinson7090

8 ай бұрын

I'm guessing you had to dig down and cut radially into some of the root diameter. I'm wondering how I'm going to do it, because a friend of mine didn't do what I instructed, and he just plopped it in the hole. The only good thing is that it was a very resilient Catalpa tree, and those things can grow between garages, and fencing and junk. Can I ask how the problem of encircled roots was remedied?

@1voluntaryist

8 ай бұрын

@@richtomlinson7090 The video was dedicated to showing how encircled roots are freed up to save the tree. Try paying attention.

@richtomlinson7090

8 ай бұрын

@@1voluntaryist Don't be an idiot. The question i asked someone else, was about what their arborist suggested to them, on the subject of a poorly prepared planting that was seriously suffering. I know how to plant trees. I have a friend that didn't know about root strangulation, and I asked someone how they fixed their problem, so I could help my friend.

@MATTINCALI

Ай бұрын

@@richtomlinson7090 Plant a seed in the ground for trees, they live way to long to ruin their roots by starting them in a pot

@richtomlinson7090

Ай бұрын

@@MATTINCALI I sometimes buy the clearance trees from Lowes or Walmart, and one was this Catalpa that I gave to a friend, and it's doing well, inspite of it's condition from being in a container from the nursery, and sitting in the store awhile. I told my buddy what to do, but he didn't prepare or trim the overgrown root ball. I guess Catalpa is a forgiving species.

One of the things that my Dad taught me is that once you have dug the hole, 3 x the size of the root ball, and before you put the tree, shrub or plant in the hole, fill it with water, let it drain away and then do this two or three times. That way, the roots stay moist and have access to water for the first few days. We also put a handful of appropriate fertilizer in the bottom of the hole. Using this method, we have NEVER lost a plant and they have always got off to a good start. Even planting in Summer here in Australia.

@urbugnmetoday3183

28 күн бұрын

Was thinking the same thing, dozens of trees done the way you’re stating and never had a failure…I feel he was excessive in the root exposure

@zombi3907

22 күн бұрын

One thing I might point out is that the soil was very heavy and wet clay. If you have soup like this and add too much water you can get root rot as it won't drain, especially if you don't mound it up. I have clay that is super dense and it's a big issue

@firebadger101

20 күн бұрын

Good suggestion. This is the standard advice here in the southwest U.S. since we have a very dry climate. In very wet climates it might not be necessary or beneficial.

@coolestdude11111

12 күн бұрын

The key to digging 3x the root ball is the width, never deeper than the root ball. If you dig deeper, the tree will settle down too deep in the hole. Also it’s never advisable to fertilize any new tree for 1 year after planting unless a soil test shows a deficiency because it can stress the tree even more.

@MAK_9833

19 сағат бұрын

Thank you for this post, Ian 😊

for an of you home owners out there, you can use your garden hose to clean the root ball out. it gives similar results to his airspade just wetter.

@blueoakats

Ай бұрын

Nice tip

@mikecurry6847

Ай бұрын

I was actually just about to try this with some trees I'm getting ready to plant

@adamgeorge37

Ай бұрын

@@mikecurry6847 yeah it works well. i would suggest washing them out away from the hole or else it gets all soupy. also once you are content with how washed out they are, don't be afraid to move the roots around so that they go outward.

@alicestorm6239

24 күн бұрын

I had to do this as a last resort when planting a couple late starts. Aside from washing away the potting mix (which has essential nutrients my newly tilled sandy soil needs), it turned out to be an incredibly efficient way to expose those tight roots. Wish I hadn't waited to the last 4 pack to try that out.

@Mmmmm173

6 күн бұрын

Such a performance, so much work to plant a tiny tree and there was not enough good compost??? To do such a great job I would buy the compost of my own and charge them for it? They didn’t want to spend more money on more compost? Unbelievable.

Excellent video. Dont see many people showing how to properly plant a tree or shrub. Learned this when i got certified as a landscape inspector.

As a farm kid we learned the way to kill an existing tree was to pile dirt around the base and cover the flare, two years later the tree was dead and we would cut it down, buck it up into pre dried firewood.

@coolruehle

5 күн бұрын

Why not just cut it down?

@annemurphy9339

4 күн бұрын

@@coolruehle. The clue is right there in his post: the method created pre-dried firewood.

I love when people who are passionate about what they do explain and demonstrate a topic most are not familiar with. Thank you!

@blueoakats

8 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching! God bless.

Water is fine instead of air spade. Less shock to tree. Nursery industry should offer discounts to root bound trees. Planting smaller trees that are not root bound is way to go, but is not part of commercial nursery industry. I have planted 3’ trees that were equal to or bigger than 8’ ers after 3 years because they did not shock out.

@dylanbishop8550

Ай бұрын

There is not always water access but you’re right, water is an acceptable alternative. The important thing is to avoid mechanical damage from tools.

101 When you dig a hole put the dirt on a tarp instead of walking on it and killing the grass. You will leave the job clean that way. The root bags can also be removed and reused rather than cut away.

@noelduffey2395

Ай бұрын

I worked in landscaping, and always kept the site tidy and myself tidy. Would never leave tools lying on the ground . I find it difficult just looking at this mess.🙄 . But he is correct in teasing out the pot bound roots. I'll give him that much 😂👍

@justbeeeb2061

Ай бұрын

I dislike non native and useless grass patches

@BlakeGibbons

29 күн бұрын

​@@justbeeeb2061 🤓

@MatthewBKR

27 күн бұрын

@@noelduffey2395 and I bet you are better than everybody else too huh?? Tools laying around? Keeping myself tidy while working? 😂😂 come on dude, stop being fake

@justbeeeb2061

27 күн бұрын

@@BlakeGibbons I don't think I understand what you mean by a single emoji

Preach man, this problem is pervasive. It’s a self induced tree epidemic. Find the flare is what I tell people. There are hundreds if not thousands of trees planted too deeply in my town and the surrounding towns. It’s not just the girdling roots that kill the tree, it’s the fact that trees breathe through their root collar, and when it’s covered they suffocate. Also, the trunk rots when in contact with soil.

@dkbomb

9 ай бұрын

Agreed. It's got to start with growers/nurseries because when they up-pot they just lay more potting mix on top of the grade instead of filling it at the bottom first and when they are ready to sell, plants usually have 2-3 years worth of mix built up at the top. It also doesn't help that there aren't more education about root pruning circling roots. It's ok to cut back a lot of the roots (1/4 to 1/3) via box cut method and not just slices around the root ball. Hardened circling roots will continue to circle even if you slice through it. You gotta cut it way back. It may seem devastating and slower to establish, but it will be healthier in the long run.

@goldistocks609

9 ай бұрын

@@dkbomb yep exactly what I do, cut off the top 2-3” of the root ball, usually with pruning clips and sometimes even a saw, until you find the root collar and flare. Just gotta be careful to not hurt the root collar.

@bobbygetsbanned6049

9 ай бұрын

I think people are going too far in the other direction. I never seen a tree grow in nature with their roots this high up, barely covered by mulch only. My neighbor planted his tree like this last year and it looks like shit with a bunch of die back. Granted I don't know what else he did when planting it, but I've never seen trees grow like this in nature. People are basically planting trees half way in the ground now with just a sprinkle of dirt to cover the roots, that's not how these trees grow naturally.

@goldistocks609

9 ай бұрын

@@bobbygetsbanned6049 neither extreme is optimal, however if I had to pick one over the other, it would be planting too high because you can easily add soil around the base of the tree, and roots naturally grow downwards. In heavy wet clay it’s recommended you plant high, because of moisture and lack of oxygen. “Plant too low and it’ll die slow, plant too high and it might dry, plant just right and watch it take flght.”

@TheGonebald

9 ай бұрын

@@bobbygetsbanned6049he planted this tree perfectly.

I learned the folly of buying saplings 50 years ago from a good friend who owned a nursery he sold when he learned trees grow BEST from seed planted directly in their permanent home. Also, he shielded the sprout with a clear mylar cone, hole at the top, watered once. The seed caught up with a 3-year nursery tree in one year. And no root to untangle, no special hole, no fertilizer. I add heavy wood mulch to avoid bare ground eco-system, hold in moisture, encourage fungi. Some trees have tap roots, some trees have roots that grow laterally, spreading out near the surface. This calls for watering that meets their uniqueness.

@mikewest712

Күн бұрын

Most trees don't have a tap root. Most crawl outward.

The way you treated the roots is similar to how we prune and train roots in bonsai, just bigger.

When I was planting in TN clay, I always used landscape gypsum in the hole,. It's supposed to help breakdown the clay over time.

I like to auger out a two foot deep by one foot wide hole. Then use half compost,half black soil to fill in the bottom half. With any conifer,since I am out on the prairie loam clay soil,I add gallon of iron Swarf (cuttings from a lathe or milling machine) from my Machinist friend and two gallons ash to the hole mix. The spruce trees in my yard point their branches at the perfect upward angle and are beautiful. The one I didn’t add Iron or Ash to is arthritic looking and lacking the proper posture. You see spruce like that all the time out here. The deep hole allows the roots to penetrate deeper and easier for water. Cheers from Sunny Alberta!

Newly planted trees and shrubs need continued watering throughout the first year. Obviously you would taper down the watering during winter months, but even then, during periods of time when there hasn’t been adequate rainfall or precipitation, you need to water them. Those fine roots hairs need constant moisture. As a Landscape Designer, I maintain the logic that, we don’t stop drinking water during the winter, and nor do our plants! There’s a saying in the industry, “Sleep, Creep and Leap” which refers to trees and shrubs sleeping the first year as they acclimate, creeping the second year as far as growth goes, and leaping (forward) their third year and beyond. In essence, it takes several years for trees and shrubs to strengthen and establish themselves. Proper planting and water management throughout the first year will ensure beautiful plants for years to come. Great instructional video!

thanks...thought this old grower how I've been doing it wrong for 7 decades! Never too-late to learn!!

@ADa89mixus

20 күн бұрын

You've had major issues?

I always transplanted trees in the fall,after they have gone dormant for the winter. Way better survival rate when you do. The shock to the trees is very minimal when planting in the fall. Then come spring , the tree can wake up and do its cycle normally.

@Fiercefighter2

9 ай бұрын

spring is also a good time if you plan on exposing the roots. more energy is in the new buds at this point

@MatthewBKR

27 күн бұрын

I always plant mine when the wind is at 7.3mph due east and a mockingbird sings the songs of my elders.. way better results from my experience!

My mother (may she rest in peace), whenever she bought new plants for the yard, or ones to put in her flowerpots, she'd tell us every time to loosen up the dirt, so that the root would be able to grow into the ground/new dirt in the pot that they were being transplanted into. If she was re-potting them, the new pot's would be at least 3 times larger than the ones the plants were previously in. I always wished I was as good at taking care of plants as she was, but mine never last as long as hers did.

Great video. Shows the difference between a “garden center” planting when they just drop a tree into a hole and someone who actually knows what to do and does it right.

Great video thanks for sharing such valuable information. most people don’t realize the importance of the root flare being exposed and not covered

@blueoakats

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching and commenting! Yes it is sad that people are unaware, but it gets better as we pass on the knowledge!

@juliosdiy3206

10 ай бұрын

I was wandering why my fig is not growing and not fruiting anymore i put more fertilizers in it but it didnt help anything.

@Pilltechre

Ай бұрын

​@@juliosdiy3206 This is a very late reply sorry, but figs fruit better with restricted roots (similar to Agapanthus flowering). I don't know why this is but I've heard it said many times now

Great video. My soil here in Oklahoma looks exactly like that... compacted clay. It seems like the clay would cause problems because it drains so slowly. The hole could fill up with water like a giant bowl. And in the spring, it could rain every other day filling the bowl back up before it could drain. Wouldn't it drown the roots? I thought about getting a trencher and cutting a trench from the hole to downhill somewhere, then back-filling with gravel to give the bowl a place to drain.

@richtomlinson7090

8 ай бұрын

I've dug the downhill drain trench, and I think it helped. I have also made the bathtub in clay, but the trees were resistant to drowning, and they were water lovers. I planted a Bald Cypress in a zone 5 or 4, because of elevation in New York state at over 1,100 feet, and it took off and is doing great. I also did this with River Birch and Red Maples, that are a swamp loving tree.

@shrimuyopa8117

Ай бұрын

You are right, those trees are going to experience root rot.

We have heavy, black turf clay. We've learnt to make a tree planting hole 1 metre x 1 metre and square with very sharp corners, this lets the roots fill the planting soil and eventually escape at the corners. Round holes cause the same root ball as being in the nursery bag/pot.

@dkbomb

9 ай бұрын

Hole shape doesn't matter. The problem actually starts with the roots themselves. Hardened circling roots will continue to circle because it was trained that way in the pot and now have muscle memory to continue to grow in circles. You have to cut back the roots heavily (20-30%) and not just slices through the outside. The ''box cut root pruning method'' done by a few universities is a good pruning technique to thin out the older and hardened circling roots and allow new feeder roots to grow freely.

@baswordfish

9 ай бұрын

hi, are you doing that just because the soil is heavy clay? I'm in France and our soil is heavy in some places, clay-limestone, so I'm wondering if by planting trees in round holes I wasn't wrong??? But roots are strong and I hope they will not get stuck against a clay wall as it happen against plastic contenant :).. Especially is the "wall" is softened by the weekly or monthly watering? You made a point :) so now I'm wondering 🤔

@hlemenviro3623

8 ай бұрын

I with my over 50 years of experience disagree about the square hole. There is absolutely no difference in the growth of a tree planted in a square or round hole.

@xXLunatikxXlul

Ай бұрын

The hole shape does not make a difference lol

I just blast all of the soil away with the hose next to the hole. And I only use the soil that I dug out of the hole to backfill with. I also found that if I have some stubborn soil or mulch that won’t easily come off with the hose will come out if I dip the entire root ball into a large bucket and swish it around. I am essentially planting a bare root tree by the time I’m done.

@blueoakats

8 ай бұрын

Good advice to use only the natural soil if possible . The client expressly wanted us to use amended soil in this case, but it’s debatable if it’s better or worse for the tree after planting.

I'm so glad to see this on youtube, it took me a long time to hear this information and I was a landscape gardener for many years before I did. Burying the crown can also cause crown rot. Always check for the crown on potted tree. Nursery's don't always lift and add soil mostly just raise the soil level by throwing dirt on the top

Wish i had known this a month ago. We just planted Eastern Redbud a month ago. It had a 2 inch trunk and the root ball was huge wrapped in burlap. So far it is still doing well.

Diagnosis Spot On ! Excellent Service worth paying for ! 😉👍

Learned a lot. I've made many mistakes. I've learned from your video thank you.

@blueoakats

Ай бұрын

Glad to help

Excellent video! This is how I learned to plant fruit trees from a very old neighbour who worked in his orchards his entire life....

This was amazing. I tried to plant a cherry tree back in 1997, and it failed. Now I know why and will use these techniques to propagate some trees.

How interesting. How very interesting. Probably the reason so many of my newly planted trees didn't make it. Thank you.

Damn that’s crazy! By being root bound it would choke it out smh. This explains a lot! Thanks for the video!

Love this. Makes me realize that I planted a couple of our crepe myrtles wrong in the past. They’re healthy, but haven’t grown almost at all compared to when they were planted. And my mom way over-pruned them right after planting.

@DoubleplusUngoodthinkful

9 ай бұрын

Crape myrtles are really forgiving plants. I have some that I have been actively trying to CUT DOWN and they just keep coming back, growing several feet PER MONTH. So they're great for making your mistakes when you start out.

Very correct way to plant a tree. He knows what he is doing!!!

@grantcook5376

9 ай бұрын

Your having a laugh

@MATTINCALI

Ай бұрын

correct way is to plant a seed in the ground

@Gnolomweb

Ай бұрын

Hope the tree was bought at a discount.

Of course big tree should be treated w care like bonsai, roots should always be radial! Great vid, now I know why tree in newly purchased house is poorly, it was planted badly. Thank you!

thanks man i am from a farm orchard and a keen gardener you have confirmed what i always thought going to be much more careful now with roots and planting

Great visual! Thanks for sharing…..you really explain it well!! I would imagine this holds true for many plants, trees or shrubs that go from container to ground!

Thanks for the tips, I always wondered how far you should go when spreading out the roots.

Good job. As a horticulturist, this is the biggest problem I run into. Trees too deep and failing.

excellent video. I've planted about 60 fruit/nut trees in southern Arizona and have had so many arguments with people about whether or not to amend the soil around the root ball. Our soil is compacted and devoid of organic matter so its hydrophobic, but also fast draining. Adding some manure and compost to the soil has made a huge difference in the results I've seen so far.

@MeanOldLady

Ай бұрын

I've got dense, heavy clay & have also worked with sandy soil too. I make slash & burn pits the year before I plant trees, direct ground sowing or raised beds to condition the soil to hold onto nutrients with bio-char. David the Good's channel shows & talks about this more in-depth, especially since he's growing in sandy conditions like yours.

@graham7513

12 күн бұрын

Im in AZ and planted two orange trees from my local nursery. They advised me to dig the hole 2-3x bigger than the root ball and then amending that soil 50/50 with the natural soil and a mulch mixture. So far so good for me

This tree is going to be happy and healthy. Thank you for making this world green.

Good video. Great advice and easy to look at. Perfect! 😄

Pretty straight forward and to the point. Never thought about blowing the dirt out to loosen up the root ball.

THANK YOU for the education - truly appreciated.

So informative 🙏 So living in a tourist town, coffee grounds are ever available and their process of growing the right fungi underground seems to a rate these clay soils so well. We have very little soil covering volcanic rock here, so feeding and adding earth that washes through with the rains and drought irrigation seems to bring it further into the volcanic gravel beneath. The tight clay that exists in between though is where the coffee helps so much. Your videos are very educating and I try to share them from my ♻️ Forests 🌳 playlist, but don't always get to KZread. Certainly worth the sharing and thank you.

Great tips. Thanks brother!!

Very good knowledge based video. Man I have heavy clay in area. Usually have to do exactly like you showed 3x or 4x wide hole. I always thought deep was needed as well. Thank you for an awesome post.

I have always laid the tree on its side and gently pound it loose with my fist. The soil ends up falling away and exposing roots for me. Its always worked for me.

Thanks alot. This is very good info in regard to loosening the root ball of the tree before planting.

@Gnolomweb

Ай бұрын

If it's not a ball, you woundt be helping it.

Question: Aren't you creating a bathtub effect by planting w a girdle of better soil + gravel in heavy clay?

@jakelangevin301

9 ай бұрын

You aren’t wrong but I think there’s massive amounts of water storage in the soil so therefore it’ll drain over time. Whereas the ring of mulch retains dirt and that’s why rot happens. Just a lad that likes plants

@silcarifarm7067

9 ай бұрын

These videos from professionals are quite funny They use tools that are not common to public The process is entirely too long for such a simple task I have an orchard Planted with its own soil Never added much but a quick layer of wood chips over the top when planted and trees are growing fine You don’t need an airspade - waste of money and time You don’t need to put down potting mix nor top soil You use the same soil you dug out You can grind the original soil by shovel or hand to break into smaller chunks I would not advise mixing in a different soil THAT will just cause more shock to roots once it finally hits the original soil The broke man’s method proves time after time This is nothing more than paid propaganda from corporate being carried out voluntarily by the enslaved

@TheJonathonM

9 ай бұрын

@@silcarifarm7067 lol what?

@d.-beck7205

9 ай бұрын

​@@silcarifarm7067He said at the beginning that this was an educational video. I thoroughlly enjoyed that he took his time and actually showed what he was talking about.

@bigdaddyfruittrees

9 ай бұрын

@@silcarifarm7067Agreed. “Nutrient rich soil” is a glorified way of saying compost. Trees don’t grow in ground up dead trees, mushrooms do! Grow trees in real dirt (sand/silt/clay). Fertilizer, compost, mulch, it all belongs on the top.

one of the most impressive vids I've seen, great job. I have 10 new fruit trees to plant replacing 10 that died. Now I think they died due to this issue.

Interesting planting. I am a pro tree fruit hort and past arborist. Temperate fruit trees respond differently to depth of planting. Most are grafted on rootstocks. Deep planting does not damage these trees as long as the soil is well drained. Trunk planted below soil level will quickly produce roots. If the graft union is below ground, the dwarfing and disease resistance of the rootstock will be lost. For proof, reaserch stoolbed propagation of fruit tree rootstocks

Very nice video. Thank you.

Love your video! Leads to another question (in addition to some of the great questions/comments below): What are you thoughts about pruning some of the branches to balance the pruning of the roots? I've been using this method in Western Colorado, and it seems to work well for me in this dry climate.

@blueoakats

8 ай бұрын

ISA doesn’t advise it unless they are broken or damaged branches. Reason being root stimulation and growth is affected by plant growth regulators produced in branch tips. Also, more leaves, more food, more energy. Try to wait at least one season after planting.

Gardeners in my area would just carve out a hole in the clay and stick the tree in it with some organic amendment and call it good. Then in a year or two, the tree ends up well below grade due to soil settling and blown-in mulching. You do good work!

Thanks for this I really learned a lot. Solid work y'all.

I didn't know about that problem, good info for future planting. I do use gypsum to break up clay soil though.

Lots of great tips here. Thanks for making the video!

You could have laid that tree on its side and pulled the bag off. Great bag to save to use for yard work!

Great info, thanks!

Thanks a lot! I learned a lot!!

This is some great info. I'm really excited about our cherries! Cheers!

Thanks for the video!

Useful vid, thanks! I'd be interested in a followup short vid that talks more about the staking at the end of the process. EG, how to attach the wires to the tree without concentrated pressure (from the wires) on the wood. Thx.

I did not know this about opening up the root ball. Thanks!

Nice to hear someone talk about not compacting the soil so the roots have an easy time growing. The air thing kind of blew me away but it looked to me like this tree should have been planted a year or two earlier. {edit} I rewatched and also appreciate his attention to the root flair ("Crown" in my world) and keeping that point level with the existing grade.

@FUKdjt8645

Ай бұрын

🙃the air thing kinda blew me away😅

@unclegeorge7845

Ай бұрын

@@FUKdjt8645 OMG - An unintended pun.

Excellent advice. This will come handy for my American Beech tree someday

Thanks so much for this! Regarding the soil amendment in the wheel barrow, what exactly was in it?

Thank you for News 📰 ❤🎉

Thank you for all this information ❤

Awesome video, excellent explanation of what you're doing and why you're doing it. Thanks man!

Very helpful, thanks

Learned a ton. Thanks.

Very informative. Would this procedure apply to bushes as well?

Great Video...Thank YOu very informative I have been doing it about half wrong all these years.....

I live in Moldova where I volunteer with Foster families and refugees. I live at the main Foster center where there are 12 homes on a large piece of land. There are hundreds of trees here. Almost every single one of the trees is bare root and planted about a foot too deep for 'support'. Oh, it is so aggravating. When I was explaining how to plant a tree properly, there response was, "Maybe that is the American way."

❤❤ (Hollywood) where you belong. Thanks for the great opening act and the information.❤❤

Thank you for that great information

Excellent! This man clearly loves his profession.

Saving for future reference. Thank you!

In the south with compacted red clay there are millions of trees that never had a hole even dug for them much less amend the soil. I find it is perfectly fine to plant without adding anything at all to the hole. In fact, adding potting mix and or chips just causes the tree to sink in the hole after that stuff decomposes. I do not see a problem mixing in that fine gravel that he is using but it needs to be mixed in with all the dirt not just scattered on the bottom of the hole. That is a fallacy that the hole has to be double or triple the size of the hole, it goes back to what I said, the trees in nature send in a tiny root into the ground without any size hole being dug whatsoever. It is not necessary at all with these trees. It does need to be fairly wide so you can pack the dirt down the sides of the hole. When a large hole might be necessary is with small shrubs or flowers or small plants, those for sure can benefit with a bigger hole and a small amount of soil amendments. And the wood mulch does help prevent weeds and it breaks down and puts nutrients into the soil, but one big problem they act as a wick and will constantly pull the moisture out of the soil. If you have a slow drip on a timer this will not be a problem. The best mulch is pine straw. It will not pull the moisture out of the ground. It will prevent weeds, it will keep the soil damp and it will break down and put nutrients into the soil.

Great video!

I love this!!!

Thank you so much for such a great video!

On the strength of this comprehensive video, I have just subscribed to your channel. As we all should know, there are right and wrong ways to do ANYTHING and it’s no wonder we see so many dead new tree and bush plantings performed by Joe and Jill Amateur! 😮😢😂

Absolutely amazing

I have always thought that laying the soil was NOT a good idea. We have always throughly mixed the soil ingredients before planting.

Thank you fir the reminder of the root system.

I love being able to see all the roots in the root ball- so rad! I'm an arborist as well- but I work in a different region with a different type of clay soil. According to ISA materials I was always told that gravel being added to the hole doesn't benefit drainage. Now I heard you say that the gravel was to reduce compaction...I sorta get that, but also I'm in the midwest so I'm not sure if this varies from region to region.

@blueoakats

12 күн бұрын

Thanks for checking out our channel. You're right about the gravel when it's piled in the bottom- ISA claims it makes the drainage worse ironically. This is not the same type of gravel as the kind wrongly used for drainage. I don't use this regularly, but the client had bought it and wanted us to use it with every tree. We mixed it in as best we could. In theory it could help prevent cray particles from bonding together as much... but good mulch and organic activity would do the same good with enough time.

Marvellous PPE use! (And planting advice)

If you use a tarp when you dig the hole, cleanup is easier, you save time, and it's a lot less messy

As a bonsai person this is pretty common for me to do. Minus the air spade of course.

SO-10875A here. Excellent video.

"Plant high never die" learned this from a certified arborist.

@bobbygetsbanned6049

9 ай бұрын

There are a lot of trees near me that were planted high and look like shit with tons of die back. They are all probably going to die. I think people have taken "plant it high" as levitate that bitch above the ground, salt bae on some dirty and call it a day.

@MATTINCALI

Ай бұрын

Plant a seed,

@natashabrown4790

Ай бұрын

Tried this with strawberries. They dead.... roots dried out.

@xXLunatikxXlul

Ай бұрын

@@natashabrown4790 strawberries are not trees.

@natashabrown4790

Ай бұрын

@@xXLunatikxXlul LOL true

In a compacted soil, a square hole prevents the roots from spinning

Bang on concerning root collar and planting depth. If only there was ANSI 60.1 to tell us how we shall plant so us arborists didn’t have to go around Siri g RCE’s amd similar. Curious why you added amendments? I like that you mixed them instead of just filling with them, but couldn’t that still create an interface of desired soil and cause potential girdling in the future?

@kevinvanbrunt7498

9 ай бұрын

“performing RCE’s”

@TexasWreckShop

10 күн бұрын

He explained in the video why he added them

That was so freakin helpful! Thanks. (I’m a Hort student). 👍🌱

Great content! Very informative.

I just planted 3 fruit trees and didn’t no to leave the collar up, I think they are about an inch under the soil. Should I wait a week or so to clear it to not shock them or dig them out or try to just hand dig around the tree?

Outstanding

You could also add some hydro rentention powder such as Polyter. This helps tremendously trees to estanlish themselves. Go check it out

Where I live, there is a hard pan clay about 18" to 2' down. I dig below it, which none of the commercial planters seem to do. It's hard to get through by hand. I suspect a hydraulic auger could get thru fairly easly. That way the tree can root deep. Most of our trees fall over even after 30 or 40 years because the roots spread wide not deep.