I like this debut. She gave the fans what they wanted. Like you said Mary, it's like she picked up right where she left and I love that. This is just the beginning I believe. But I always love how no nonsense, raw and unappolgetic Pheobe's campaigns are. Always from the female gaze. One of my favorite piece was the "mum" necklace. I love how she's always celebrating pride in motherhood in her work. This was a consistent collection.

I was really taken aback at her debut. She hit the ground running. However, a lot of controversy has stirred up too and I really hope that the past is the past and Phoebe has grown.

@waterwaters

9 ай бұрын

She hasn't. She just adapted so people don't bother her about her racism

Thanks for the recap. The prices were just ridiculous - not worth parting with my money for any of it

I had to think twice when I saw what was on offer from PP. Does she still know what women want, and if so, which women? I see a combination of clunky shapes against a sprinkle of tailored pieces which sit awkwardly alongside each other for me. I was so looking forward to a new bag from her but again the ones on offer were either huge and overpriced for most people or just similar to what she had created previously. I am intrigued to see what the next drop consists of. Thank you Mary for your insight on the collection. I am looking forward to seeing your PP purchases 🥰

Thank you for the review. Please continue to do these as the other edits are dropped.

Gorgeous collection! Loved it! Will be interesting to see how she progresses in terms of design but also a business. The padded bag looks like an update of the edge! As most things are sold out, and rightfully so, we don't know the quantities they have against these. It could be a lot smaller then we imagine, especially since she mentioned production as a main point. A good example is when The Row launched their alligator backpack and it sold out instantly, people were freaking out on how quick it sold out. But the reality is only 2 or 3 were made (so I was told).

I was sad to learn that Phoebe Philo did not want to use Black models when she worked for Celine. There’s an interview of Iman the model who stated that this was the case since then, although I admire her design aesthetic, I would never purchase anything from her.

@lizziebkennedy7505

9 ай бұрын

Wow. I had no idea! 😡

@minny608

9 ай бұрын

While her response to not using black models was insensitive, it seems that she is learning from her mistakes this time with the diversity of the models in the new collection. It's also been pointed out that at that time among Philo's peers, such as Miuccia Prada, other fashion houses were not using non-white models so it's a bit unfair to just point the finger at Philo when other brands were excluding models of colour. That said, I'm not defending her actions at the time but hope she's genuinely learned from her past mistakes, as someone non-white I also hope to see more models of different nationalities and ethnicities represented, across all brands.

@pagethreemodel

9 ай бұрын

​@@minny608the way I rolled my eyes at this long wall of excuses.

@pagethreemodel

9 ай бұрын

And only recently it came out that a Korean hat designer called Eugenie Kim (whose hats are available on Net A Porter and other high end sites) has made several disdainful comments about not wanting to hire black models too as she has proudly alluded to black people not being able fit the aesthetic that she wishes to convey. These two demos. seem to harbour an unreasonable hatred for black people. I wish more black high end fashion consumers bought from black designers

@minny608

9 ай бұрын

@@pagethreemodel and the way I rolled my eyes at your comment when I said I'm not excusing her actions or other fashion houses. Just saying she's not the only one to blame. It's something that needs to be changed that I hope gets better with the times. But whatever go off girl.

As always I was the most excited to hear your take!!!! You truly always capture such beautiful and different aspects of a brands collection with your point of view 🤎 I too am so very excited about the next drop bags, and think that that clasp bag would be the SWEETEST sibling to your red ceiling clasp bag 😍 what a cool evolution it would be to have both in your collection… swoon 🥰 As I will be touching on in my video tomorrow… you also always hint at how much pressure and criticism designers/creative directors etc are put up against, so I love seeing the beauty in this collection and always hearing your well put positive angels 🩶🩶🩶

Was are people complaining about price?? 😂 It’s a partial LVMH brand, they want to compete with the row, who is known for their 5-figure priced rtw

Been waiting all night for your video! I copped the Peak Sunglasses! No confirmation email, but a tracking number is already logged. Can’t wait to rock these!

Can we just appreciate how nice is to listen to you and your thoughts! Nice video :)

Great video and thanks again for promoting pre loved

I actually love the lookbook, I'll be checking it out in more detail to get a better feel of the vibe of the entire collection, materials, colors, cuts etc..but the overall aesthetic is quite pleasing to me personally. I don't care about the pricing since I won't be buying any of it 😅 but PP is an icon & i'm sure her brand will sell well & quickly as you acurately pointed out. The xxl leather cabas is gorgeous, it looks more like a weekender tho rather than an everyday utilitarian bag. I love that it is gigantic & it kinda reminds me of her dramatically big tote from Céline. Also, I expected more suits but there doesn't seem to be that many.. Last but not least, getting Daria W out of retirement for the lookbook/campaign is giving me life !!!

Hello. Thank you for the review. I think it's safe to say no one expected a resurrection of " Old Celine" however as noted in previous comments it shows a twist without commitment to the brand's legacy followers. An understated modern classic luxury that fans of the brand could safely wear and continue to feel avant garde Celine with Yours Forever Phoebe

Thanks for being on this so fast. Queue all the faux dismissals, from people who missed out. 🤣

Honestly taking a look to her new web page I see her personal brand does not offer anything new, I've been a huge fan of her and I get her aesthetic but nowadays many brands make a similar work (Bottega Veneta, Proenza Shoulder, The Row, Jil Sander) so I don't find differences. She made us wait a lot so my expectations were too high and the results in my opinion were disappointing, it was so predictable. The good thing is that she respects her personal touch, of course many people would be super mad if there wasn't her escence on her first collection. I'm not sure it's gonna be a global achievement, the products are not diversified and so expensive. I believe she wants to make her brand so exclusive an create an illusion of desire, not for "wanna be" people who can buy only a bag. Hope the best for her anyway. Love from Mexico.

@lizziebkennedy7505

9 ай бұрын

Sustainability is going to do that. We need a shift from rampant, unchecked growth.

@alex0438

9 ай бұрын

@@lizziebkennedy7505 This is not about sustainability, There's huge luxury brands that have a little stock for each piece to make it exclusive just as PP, but most of those brands offer sizes, wearable garments, products for skin, makeup, perfums and bags. What I see here is that PP looks for a very specific type of client so it makes it super exclusive and if that's the point, the brand is not gonna grow. Phoebe Philo is concerned about the industry, but one thing is commercial products and another one is products for appreciation, only 30-40 products of the 100 she has in her web page are salable, you gotta be tall and slim to wear one of her trousers for example.

This collection about women in their prime, they are loaded and will do whatever they please with their money.

PP is clearly a clever and experienced designer and business woman. She has learned the tough lessons from a brutal industry. All the 'glitches' are obviously because demand outstrips supply. Brilliant. These images make me think that this woman owned and led company gives no fks about how others WANT her to conduct her business or her life. LOVE IT!

I absolutely love what Phoebe is doing! Incredible. Thank you for the great video!

Omg. The one shot of belly with gold bikini. The woman has stretch mark. Like from childbirth. Amazing

I found another creator talk about this but Phoebe Philo is a way for LVMH to tackle the heritage market, like the Hermes and many exclusive richemont houses

I was underwhelmed. I'm sorry because I appreciate her work so much.

I really liked that she celebrated women of all ages and their individual beauty . There was certainly pieces that I would love to purchase

Her work at Chloe had this flirtatiousness about it, but this is more seductive, darker, more adult.

I love this collection. It really speaks to me tho I wouldn’t / couldn’t wear it. I love the uniqueness and the boldness; it feels mature & feminine. I especially like the glasses and the MUM necklace :) Great video (as always), Mary! I really enjoy your insights and the subject matters you share.

Not shocked that supporters who bought her work-wear fashion in their 30-40s and are now in their 40s-50s, even more successful spending this kind of money.

I’ve been anxiously awaiting your review lol. I love your channel partly bc of your love of the row, old and new Celine, and Pheobe. One thing worth mentioning, I think, is the collections diversity and size inclusivity. Though the topic deserves a broader discussion, it’s not just her price points that are exclusive. If you’re beyond a US size 12, you’re outta luck. But that’s obviously not uncommon, unfortunately. But those thick cat eye sunglasses were incredible. So much like the popular D frame ones she did at Celine every fashion girl had. This edit very much picks up where she left off at Celine, though there’s more of a sexual undercurrent to the vibe. Something that was missing missing from her old work. That photograph of the nude woman in heels with her leg up is a stunning shot. It projected a bolt of strong, in control sexual energy. I could go on and on about how wonderful Pheobe is and how cool this edit was. I’m sure Mary Kate and Ashley are quaking in the austere, quiet luxury boots lol.

While I understand that she is probably under prior contractual restraints to NOT put out items that are similar to what came out at Celine...that kind of tied her hands and contributed to the delay in release of this collection. The platypus shoes are a no-go! Who wants their feet to look like platypus feet? Not me!!! However, the leather they are made from looks sumptuous! I think the entire collection thus far is not cohesive and appears unfinished. Hopefully, the future releases will be better.

Hi Mary, of course everything was sold out, but honestly i liked only a few pieces, from the collection. A few pants, - one with zippers, wide leg, the cargo kind of style and a few cream color blouses. The rest nope, i prefer her old archive files. I would get some of those very unique, classic , timeless but still elegant pieces instead of this new collection.. Have a blessed day🙏❤️

The trousers and coats👌

PS I will remain a Old Celine Collector.

Great review. Which pieces did you pick up? Please do a review once you get them!

I live in California Yesterday oct 30 at 9:30 am pst. The things I wanted were sold out. Today I did on line chat with phoebe philo Asked if waitlist or if the were bringing back any items. They said they would send updates.

Everyone complaining at the price yet half of it sold out in 2 hours is the biggest flex. This is Brunello Cuccinelli with a fashion edge. Glad to see her back.

Shes a living legend

You didn’t tell us what pieces you bought. So curious

Great video. Love the bags, but can’t.

They cancelled my order🙄

Anyone who loved Phoebe at Celine should be very happy with this debut collection. I believe they miscalculated the pricing of the tote, but otherwise, l think this collection is spot-on and exactly what l’d expect from Phoebe.❤

Clothes and accessories to wear with your Birkin

I can appreciate the quality of the fabrics and skins but the collection, in my opinion, is not exceptional. As per the prices, it does not differ from other high end designers. I will remain loyal to The Row😀

Mary have you gotten the confirmation email yet? I see on IG people started posting they got their purchases already. And I am still waiting for order confirmation email 😭😭😭

I just learned about her, and I found her history fascinating… But I am not liking anything that she put ou,t sadly. It all looks like clothing for artistic pictures, and that’s about it… I don’t see any of these clothes, flattering a woman’s body. And also, the prices are ridiculous! But then again, all prices of these luxury brands are absolutely ludicrous.😢

I wanted Gig bag and black jeans. Yes the cabas is not worth the money. I really liked the black tunic/ dress which wasn’t sold out at 9:30 am. But where I live is so casual and rural/ocean. I wouldn’t wear it as much as I would want for 2200.

There was a lot of older women in this collection

@EricaGuzman0099

9 ай бұрын

She did this before

How dare her want to spend time w her kids -lol

I think H&M has already copied the hand combed embroidered coat

If I could afford the jackets I would😭

So she is trying to avoid sale (replica's she can't really), but the thing is that the brands that have sales (you can check how they sell leftovers if the fabric to Moody's), and have to employ enough of the people as they grow, they can't avoid the sale (actually sale's happen trough the pages like Net a Porter, Mytheresa, Farfetch). So. IMO. They earn te money like regular, but their retailers do most of the sales , but they again do hautre couture for the exclusive clients. So. She is trying to widener this haute couture and I am just not sure is this the best economical approach. Always is kinda better to lower the price and have more clients. I know from my nautical bussiness, because we don't have big investment to return this way to the bank. I am sure she did her calculations. But. This is not The Row price tag, it is higher. I like the collection it is very atristic, I don't like the eyewear and the bags, not that much anyways, but a lot of stuff with this really really big price tags, I wouldn't wear it really( like that fur or that dress). So, she needs to do this drops because she needs to pay her stuff, and use the materials, and she figure this is the way she can remain this exclusivity. This is good strategy but, as I said, if she wants to grow (and trust me any bussines wants and kinda obligate you, because you want to stay relevant, and ofc you want your baby to grow) to remain exclusive she is going to make a hell of the more collections pieces and drops. That will drain her out IMO. It would be anyone. I like one cargo trousers, shoes (I can't do heels and I am really tall anyway) and that jacket. Also the necklace have great design I would love it say woman, also I love the art and the approach. Also the relationship with the ageing. Also, I must say that I like the idea that not many people have that piece, but the thing is anyway there will be replicas, or she will inspire new dssigners.. it is tricky really to find the balance and make a stable bussiness (with the growth, because this is consider nowdays stable, like GDP for countries, one can't avoid this).

@hikariluanGC

9 ай бұрын

She's aimming to create artificial scarcity/exclusivity. These pieces are going to be very expensive for a while, even if bought by means of resellers. People will want them because they will end up being "rare". An original piece can become quite a popular asset in that sense, not many can own a piece from her collections due to price and scarcity. Even if they can get counterfeit/copies at lower prices by retailers such as Zara, the original will have the quality of "rarity' attached to it that you mentioned that you enjoy. That's what will drive the costumers to always come and get each and every drop and keep buying on each opportunity. If she's able to stay relevant and popular, she can get to the point where every collection will be sold out quite fast. When each piece have the potential to become a luxury collector type of asset, all the while she remains relevant, as you already mentioned when touched upon the creation of urgency by managing her collection's drops, a lot of poachers and costumers will fight over her pieces. It's also a brand that I see as marked or raised to be super exclusive. That's the reason for the prices. It's the type of luxury that goes a little above all other types of luxury, it's to not be affordable because it's aimed at the super wealthy, not the wealthy. It seems like she has sorted the business stuff quite well and managed to use her name and fame to stay afloat while putting out some nice fashion work that tries to push some boundaries when it comes to the fashion world. I might not enjoy her as person because of her racist drama or her collections because I'm more of a maximalist, but she's indeed very talented.

@josipag2185

9 ай бұрын

@@hikariluanGC I am sorry but I said this, in a shorter way, that she is making this for the uber rich, like an extension of haute couture, and that she need this drops to make it, and not having loses. I just extended my toughts on why to have a stable bussiness you need a growth always, and in this case with this approach it will require squeezing her creativity up to very last drop. Because things grew old and became 'seen', this happen in every single bussiness, like I said I work in nautics, and I have seen super luxurious yahts that after a while aren't that luxorius, so it is hard to stay on top every time. One flop for her will mean a bigger loss, and also si far she was very honest in her fashion, I mean one could tell it is her, and it was her, because IMO this collection is made for 40+ more then woman in their 30s, I am in my 30s and can more relate to her Chloé, and the early Céline. I would hate the idea of using new, no names designers, because they are always used and not payed as they deserve, and like I said for her to hold this position it will require a lot of creativity and not to cross the borders, as you said she for sure was never the maximalistic designer. I do think she gets this, and this os why she has the LVMH deal in as a ticket out if and when (well, if is actually the matter of time, if your brand stays long enough and especially after you, so to say) needed, because I think he end game is becoming new Coco Chanel literally.