Great! Thank you for the tutorial. My backlight was working, but it was weak. Now working well. I also replaced a couple of relays that weren't functioning well and were hindering the proper operation of the multimeter. The next step is to replace the NiCd battery with a LiPo. I hope to find clear instructions on how to do it. Sorry for my limited english.

@hummerfixes

5 ай бұрын

Thank you for your kind comments. There was some info on grafting in a LiPo but I seems to remember it not being a great solution, if you do find a way please post a video or comment👍

Super video I repaired the back-light on my philips pm97 scopemeter too and the electrolytics he works like new again Am super happy with it and subscribed right away

@hummerfixes

11 ай бұрын

Thank you for commenting, it's gratifying to know you've been successful 👍

thanks, i repaired ma pm97 also

@hummerfixes

7 ай бұрын

Thanks for the comment, good to hear👍

Thanks sir, this video help me a lot, salam from Indonesia

@logicalfixes

Жыл бұрын

You are very welcome, thanks for the comment😀

i like your scattered, no bullshit approach. its all signal, no noise. very 'mikes electric stuff'. AVX for tantalums and electrolytic SMT's are what i've had best luck with. or check and see whatever marco reps uses. i was like 'oh word, dudes doing it component level based on a schematic.' and then you showed some dudes blog post haha the closely pitched display contacts are colloqually called 'zebra strips/stripes (heard it both ways)' (no idea what they're actually called, i aint no EE.) show up on repairs are exactly why those 3 clips are there (lack of pressure to keep alignment/contact between those like 239239 traces). you'd only find them on reaaaaaally top end gear. when i was like 10 and tearing apart shit to 'fix' (usually ruin), none of them had those pressure clips. since, consumer goods, etc. now it's all OLED and SPI/UART into JSTs so wham bam, but it was such a pain lining those up. polycarbonate was used on the DMM screens in order to ruggedize them, which incidentally lets you lap-recover screens real well. start in the low tens of diamond slurry and work down. ive seen people on the youtubes have to go down to 3 micron, but i dont think ive ever seen a failure to recover to more or less 'brand new'. since you have a set of high-ish end mityutouo calipers i figure you know what i mean. also, just n.b. but culturally using 'mil' confuses people, since us 'merikanz in the 'golden bob widlar/jim williams/bob pease days' used imperial as the standard since we're incredibly egocentric, then used the prefix since presumably no one else would ever ever layout anything, and it colloqually stuck. at least i think (well before my time). i knew what you were saying since accent and all, but people get confused. it's pretty much standardized everywhere to use 'thou' to talk about pcb track layouts and 'mm' (on forums) "millimeters" when spoken. and to make things even more fucked, physical things like enclosures (and thus mounting points) are metric everywhere. now everyone has to deal with laying out boards in imperial to keep components lined up, while simultaneously using metric for things like the mounting points/stand offs/whatever. so *everyone* gets fucked. metric/imperial i dont care just pick one and of course it was made well, 'merka fuck ya! ;)

@hummerfixes

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your post. Yep "thou", "MM" and "mils" are confusing, working in the USA we had many similar discussions e.g. spanner and grub-screw to name a few. Thanks for the advice on lap-recovery, it works on watches too and I even heard of using pencil erasers and metal polish, no doubt there are YT videos on the topic.

good job..mate

@hummerfixes

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your comment, you are welcome..

I'm not sure why you didn't use a separate power supply to test the new backlight prior to fitting, at least that would have proven which was the front side of the new backlight part, it was interesting to see you do the replacement though so thanks for the video

@hummerfixes

10 ай бұрын

Thank you for your comment. Good call, I don't know why either....👍

Hi，MR.Buckley, Thanks for your post. You convinced me, I can do it myself to. The site you were looking at, at 16:35, could you share it with us? The Electroluminescence Sheet. Since the link ebay link is always temporary, thus it isn't available anymore, which color did you use and which voltage? Then I could look for some similar.

@hummerfixes

2 жыл бұрын

This is the site you requested areciv.com/blog/2013/02/fluke-scopemeter-97-el-backlight-repair/ The Electroluminescence Sheet was Aqua (Light Blue) 10cm x 10cm, if you google "Electroluminescent EL Panel Backlight Sheet 10cm x 10cm" you will find some. They often come with inverters or drive (not needed) This company may be able to help you elwirecraft.co.uk/product/el-panel-10cm-x-10cm-2/ Add a comment and an update on your progress to help others ... Good luck👍

@akostenzer2839

2 жыл бұрын

@@hummerfixes Thanks for the QUICK information. Due to lack of time, It will take a time before I can start replacing the Electroluminescence Sheet. But I'll comment my progress then. As on your post, I have the Philips PM97,

Can the screen be white instead of green? If not, why are some white background instead of green?

@hummerfixes

8 ай бұрын

Thank you for commenting, short answer, "not sure, maybe" the important thing is contrast, also worth mentioning @TrueBlue475 suggests testing the backlight to determine the "front side"

Hi，MR.Buckley,when you put the sreen back onto the pcb,you did not use som kind of conductive glue? Conductive adhesive is still working?

@hummerfixes

2 жыл бұрын

Indeed I did, vital in fact.

@user-cy9cp2gv4c

2 жыл бұрын

@@hummerfixes MR Bucley, why not use green backlight?

@hummerfixes

2 жыл бұрын

@@user-cy9cp2gv4c Green might be ok, your choice. I tried to keep the "unknowns" to A minimum, that was the main reason.

bom seria substituir por capacitor tantalo .. tks

@logicalfixes

Жыл бұрын

Obrigado por seus comentários. Essa é uma boa possibilidade.

hi, great job .. you have the part number or model of the replacement lighting. Please if possible you can share it. Thank you

@hummerfixes

3 жыл бұрын

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electroluminescent-EL-Panel-10cm-x-10cm-Aqua/232427244541

@hummerfixes

2 жыл бұрын

Great questions everyone, but no glue, no conductive paste/adhesive, solvents or anything, very important !!!!! Imagine, had glue been used during manufacturing, it wouldn't be possible to dismantle it today i.e. glue is a one way ticket. In fact its just the opposite, the PCB gold contacts should be spotlessly clean and free from contamination (clean with IPA if necessary), avoid touching by hand (fingers are greasy and acidic) and do not used abrasives as the gold is only a few microns thick. Glue will make it 100% scrap for sure, do not be tempted 👍 Care and patience rules on this one, no need to panic.....

@robc3863

Жыл бұрын

@@hummerfixes link doesn't work, any ideas?

Where do you buy the back light sheet??

@logicalfixes

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment. This was the original link kzread.info/dash/bejne/h5poubRmg7CYntI.html however try eBay e.g. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=EL+Panel+%E2%80%93+10cm+x+10cm&_sacat=0