Put it on my 63 Mercury which ran like a top & with points. I put a Petronix ignition system on there. The damn thing starts and runs a helluva lot smoother. It was night and day. I know how to mess with points but didn’t want to bother with them anymore.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

That has been my experience as well.

Glad to see a new video on your 72 Mach! Keep 'em coming!!

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

There will be more. We are going through the old man top to bottom.

Great video as always. However, the Pertronix II and III can be ran on factory tach cars. On my 1967 GT 500 I found that even the Pertronix II caused inaccurate tach readings and damaged the factory tach. I wound up having to pull the 12V feed before the resistor wire and ran it through the boot that comes through the firewall for the gauge feed harness. It's one small wire and I made it almost impossible to detect. The vehicle also ran erratic at idle and started hard running at the 6-9 volts put out wired using the resistor wire. Pertronix also claimed that low voltage causes premature failure. I would be glad to share the wiring schematic for those using the Pertronix unit with factory tachometer cluster and harnesses.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

That is what this next weeks video is about. Glad to know it works. I am loath to wreck my tach using the three. Not that it would, but yeah.

You guys always are a huge help. Pay your crew with beer bro. Love the videos.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

HAHAHAHAHA. Most of them are under 18...But yeah, I'll take that under advisement. 😂😂😂

Put one of these on my 67 mustang and it was so much better than messing with points.

I put one on my 68 later I got the 60,000 volt coil for it.That combination put the spurs to her.

Great! Mach 1. Good job.

I added the basic Pertronix to the '69 F250 w/360 engine when I picked her up last November (Based on some of your earlier videos). I've put about 2,500 miles on her since then, and so far so good. When dead cold (around 0*f) it takes about 4 seconds to fire. When she's warmed up, just touch the key and she's running. Dead smooth acceleration and cruise. So far, I'm happy with the choice.

@Fauxtag

2 жыл бұрын

I have this same truck. Did you end up having to bypass the ballast resistor?

@ericdolan2130

2 жыл бұрын

@@Fauxtag No, I did not. Left the existing wiring intact.

@ericdolan2130

2 жыл бұрын

@@Fauxtag I believe that with the basic unit you can get away with not changing it (I didn't change it). From what I understand if you go anything beyond basic, you need to have a dedicated 12VDC feed.

Good To Know..! Thanks

You have informative videos. Think it would help a lot of owners of older and classic cars if you did a sequence of videos on how to use a dwell meter and timing light. There are plenty of these tools on eBay, but they have no instructions and tune ups are becoming a lost art. Petronix systems are a huge break-through for a more efficient and consistent spark ignition, but willing to bet there are still cars w standard ignition and could use some help. Thanks.

@AutoRestoMod

4 жыл бұрын

We'll look at doing a more derailed video on that.

When using DURASPARK if u ever want to diagnose your wireing or any of the components,run a hot wire from the battery to the hot side of the coil. The pertronix I've seen connected to the dist plate. That is the WEEK LINK OF THAT DIST.

I've used Duran spark 2 for 37 years and I've had 1 module failure. Factory DURASPARK is on the shelf everywhere. Including the wrecking yard. With duraspark,run a switched 12 volts.

@williamcrazylacyfurmage9953

3 жыл бұрын

explain the 12 volt wiring set up

can i use platinum plugs when running a pertronix ignitor in a 1970 small block v8 stock engine

My Tony Branda '66 Shelby tach (the accurate repop) works just fine with the Flamethrower III.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

That is a newer tach innards.

@ChuckG92

5 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod Indeed, but works both ways and was not covered in your review. I thought it useful information.

I got a brand new flame thrower 40111 (1.5ohm) it's reading 1.1 ohms . Is it bad?

The Pertronix (all versions) is a 12 volt device. The coil power passes through a resistance wire that drops the voltage to the coil to about 8 volts. You have to run a 12 volt wire to power the Pertronix. This wire has to be hot during run and start, typically a red or pink wire with a green stripe at the back of the ignition switch. The Pertronix has nothing to do with how hot the spark is. That is a function of the coil. Also Ford ignition switches are rated for about 8 amps of current. To find out how much current is being pulled you divide voltage by resistance. In this case, the coil resistance. The .6 ohm coils pull too much current and will cause the ignition switch to get hot and then fail. If you want to run one then you should use a relay to supply the power to it.

@et76039

3 жыл бұрын

Interesting analysis on the current rating of the ignition switch, William Basore. It may also explain why the Pertronix III was getting more gripes on here; it has the multiple spark discharge, and if the P-I and P-II would be drawing >8 amperes anyway, then the P-III would be even finickier. Also, there is a warning not to use solid core plug wires. Pertronix "ALWAYS" recommends replacing the old coil with their own Flame-Thrower. This could be linked to a current draw consideration. It was also pointed out that it is best to have everything from one system, rather than playing mix-and-match.

The main thing that complicates Pertronix installations with a stock coil is that you need a full 12v to the Pertronix unit and the ballast-resisted/stepped-down voltage to the coil. And on a Ford that means running an extra wire from the ignition switch before the resistance wire to the Pertronix unit in the engine compartment OR using the red & green coil (+) wire to trigger a relay that will provide the full 12v to the Pertronix unit. Often it's easier from an installation perspective to just bypass the resistance wire and have the coil wire feed both the coil and the Pertronix, but that requires the matched Pertronix coil, which may be suboptimal if you're trying to conceal the installation. While it's highly unlikely you'd need to, maintaining a ballast-resisted type coil makes it easier to replace the coil on the road when the Pertronix coil blows the top off because it got overheated. Most auto parts stores would have a standard externally-resisted coil in stock, scrounging an internally-resisted Pertronix type coil might be more difficult.

@LynxStarAuto

5 жыл бұрын

On a Ford, you simply tap the pertronix positive wire into the feed wire *before* the resistor (which is the 12v side), rather than run it straight to the coil + terminal. It is also wise to use a relay to protect the ignition switch.

@tedpeterson1156

5 жыл бұрын

Coils don't actually have a resistor inside, they have a resistance, it varies due to the number of turns of wire in the primary winding depending on application. In the point system, a ballast or dropping resistor was used to drop the voltage and current once they went to a 12 volt system in 1956. The ballast or "pink wire" was bypassed during "start" for a bit hotter spark. It's simply a divider network. Pertronix Ignitor can be used with the stock ballast setup. Most people like to use a hotter coil, and run straight battery voltage. They may have similar ohms in the primary but a greater number of secondary windings for higher voltage. Beware emission era rotors! These have a different (larger) gap than earlier rotors, even if the part number is the same. The standard Ford Motorcraft blue replacement rotor for 57-73 is an example. The firing voltage in the coil is a lot higher, this can be good, but only to a point (heh). The points style distributor and a high output coil can have trouble. The earlier black Autolite rotors with the long nose has a much closer spacing with the distributor terminal.

I have had nothing but trouble with Pertronix. Ignitor III to be specific. I started off loving the product, but now I've gone through four of them in two different vehicles and I'm not so happy.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

Sorry that your experience is not great. You might check your grounds etc. Really go through the system. There has to be a reason for you to be chewing through so many. I have a III on my Falcon, The Wagon and had one on the '67 Fastback with zero trouble.

@LynxStarAuto

5 жыл бұрын

This is my sentiment as well. I do this for a living, and have installed them on more vehicles than I can count with my hands and feet. They work great when they work, but they fail a lot. Heat is the number 1 culprit imo.

I think I'm down to fighting my Pertronix on my "67 Comet 202 (351W powered) .. tried full 12v to my coil and on to the Pertronix (Ignitor II), tach smoothed out, idle was always fine, under power was okay, then it ran so bad after about 30 minutes, I almost got stuck in a couple intersections. Put my resister wire back on, a new OEM style coil and it runs "okay" but my AutoMeter Monster tach bounces like a kid in a bouncy castle after about 5 minutes and you can feel the motor missing, and surging when at part throttle .. Good video with some good explanations, I'll go back and root around under my hood when I get off work tonight ..

@AutoRestoMod

4 жыл бұрын

Did you get it figured out?

@67comet

4 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod Nope .. Last night after work I put the new resister wire on that I ordered from NPD and received last night .. ran that to the coil (tried both a new OEM style, and the Accel 8140C I put on when I put the motor in July) .. Ran a fresh 12V switched power to the Pertronix (black wire goes to my coil's negative, red goes to 12V switched power now). Didn't bounce for the first couple minutes in the garage. Cleaned up the wires thinking it was fixed, then on the test drive, the tach started flicking around (AutoMeter Monster), and the car had a little miss/skip/surge under load (from about 1800-3500 when I shifted). The missing, surging, etc isn't nearly as bad as running the full 12V to the coil, but the tach still bounces like a kid in a bouncy house. My Distributor is from Pertronix. Not sure of the model number (it came with my motor). It is an Ignitor II inside, Chevy style guts/cap. I hate to go with the PerTronix coil because it's a lot easier to find a resister wire coil on the road, than a full 12V coil (and I've already got a couple coils). Is there another way to check that the Ignitor II is sitting right in the Billet style distributor on there (can I adjust the gap)? The plate with the Ignitor II and Vacuum advance does jiggle just a little bit (the shaft with magnets is snug). I haven't seen how to pull the Chevy style mechanical advance portion (that is under the router) out to check the plate out (can't really get to the screws with it on). Keep up the good work.

@67comet

4 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod I ended up pulling my PerTronix, and dropping in a stock "77 Ford electronic ignition .. Doesn't look as nice, but it works well now. I still have the PerTronix module (Ignotor) in my F250/390 pickup and it is flawless, but my little Comet is back to the ugly wiring of a stock electronic ignition. I think it was the PerTronix distributor, and some play in the base plate. It doesn't take much to make things go haywire.

i like a large gap 40-50 thous on plug depends on plug denso or ngk only and a 80k coil guy thats works wonders on old smog era stuff i used them on 4 banger Mitsubishi d maxy pad truck noticeable mpg n power// only issue i ran it to was burning a tiny hole in the center of el cheapo rotary button on a 351w but the plactic in center was stupid thin..geerr fords jb weld epoxy filled a new one solved that ..megajoit ignitions is the next best system another non main stream solution thats is better than all the rest n used off shelf EDIS coil packs n box very fair priced unlike holly or something

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

I've used Pertronix for years. I remember the days when the base unit was $69.00...Well it was the ONLY unit.

Noticed some gripes that centered on how this system might run raggedy after getting warmed up. William Basore hinted at an ignition switch that might be getting more current than it was designed to handle. After watching the video on installing the similar Accuspark module, a difference was noted. The Accuspark has heat sink compound included and its installation procedure is to apply it between the module and plate, whereas on the Pertronix, the plate and module seem to come already cemented or bonded together. Troubleshooting the Pertronix module has steps to check for overheating damage. It is possible the failures noted by some folks here are due to heat stress on the electronics/electricals.

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

Yes.

Hi have a question, I have a 53 chevy 3100 pickup with a 216 in it. I was having issue where truck was not wanting to start. I checked points and they were shot, so I decided to put the pertronix ignition in and a new coil also from pertronix. Now I can't get truck to start at all. I changed cap, rotor, wires, and plugs and still nothing. Also rebuilt carb, I'm getting gas and spark. Thinking of trying to go back to points, did you ever come across anything like this. Key ignition is also good I checked that to. Any help will be greatly appreciated, thank you

@t.p.visweswarasharma6738

2 жыл бұрын

I doubt that the existing distributor is old wear-out one and hence either needs repair at lathe or replacement with a new one, if available. If these two options are not possible collect an old ignition distributor of same model but in good working condition vehicle scrap shop in your locality.

I have a Petronix 3 in my 347 stroker Ford engine,. it has run before now it just cranks and cranks like the mustang. I have no clue. Voltage is good, Distributor hold down is being charge to stock (no Chrome). I need help

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

It could be that the module is bad. run the checks we show here. if that fails contact Pertronix for troubleshooting help.

Which Petronix and coil best for stock 351 Cleveland 2v everything is stock .

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

Just get a stock coil from the auto parts store.

Would you please tell the petronixs unit suitable to replace points and condenser of Indian made Hindustan Mark IV Petrol Ambassador car 1987 model with 12 V battery and Lucas TVs ignition distributor?

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

I have no idea. Contact Pertronix directly, they have an industrial group that can help.

Hey Jeff not Los Angeles, Reno Nevada. Wish they were here.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

Huh, when I called "the guy" to talk about the tach issue, he was in LA...

@classicstangbrn8964

5 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod hey Jeff they are in Ventura Ca, north about 50 miles (NPD).

Hey guys, when I do that test you show here at 9 mins, my tester shows 00.6 needle to needle, then 00.6 on the test you show, That's good right??

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

Should be fine.

@williamcrazylacyfurmage9953

3 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod I went back to points, works great again

I have Ignitor II and FlameThrower II (0.6 Ohm) coil on my '88 Classic Mini (1275 cc 4 cylinder). Previous owner setup it up running off the pink ballast resistor wire (1.3 Ohm). Ran fine for a number of months after I bought the car). I then read that Ignitor II works best with 12v feed, non-ballasted FT-II coil. So I by-passed the pink and ran a line from the switched ignition on fuse terminal. After a month or so the FlameThrower has died, giving open circuit across the poisitve & negative terminals. This is the oil-filled coil. New epoxy filled type on order. Was the failure due to the 12v or some other scenario/end-of-life time on the coil?

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

I couldn't honestly tell you. It might have been an end of life cycle thing.

@TornadoCAN99

3 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod thx. New epoxy filled FT-2 now fitted and given full 12v feed as instructions recommend. Seems to running fine again.

@et76039

2 жыл бұрын

@@TornadoCAN99 , been almost a year. How is it running now?

@TornadoCAN99

2 жыл бұрын

@@et76039 still running great with epoxy coil. Still not sure why other failed. Perhaps extra vibration from being engine mounted. Oil filled more prone to vibration.

@et76039

2 жыл бұрын

@@TornadoCAN99, always glad to hear a long term report.

I notice I had a bad connection where the wire hooks to the battery side of the solenoid. went out driving seem good, them 5 mins later. Kaboom another back fire, lol, damn in!!! lol

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

Sorry to hear that.

Hello is there anyway you can show us how to run a 12 volt wiring?

@williamcrazylacyfurmage9953

3 жыл бұрын

I was wondering that also, Do you connect protronix Dist boc hot red wire to the key hot on the steering wheel wiring the the hot on the coil??, AND don't have the hot go to the coil at all.

@jazzycup9274

3 жыл бұрын

@@williamcrazylacyfurmage9953 saw this mentioned on a "newer" Pertronix video and they replied saying they would show it... Maybe they just don't know how either?

I did Pertronix upgrade to my 1972 - 2.0 Pinto , here's a story I type up to share, A few are saying my ground might not be to good, . Here's my story of my outing on 9 12 2020 - I just installed a pertronic on my 72 2.0 Pinto with the Flame thrower coil as a kit I got it from ebay $128 . I reset the timing, drove it and it kicks ass, 80 miles later it starts backfiring and powering down on my way to the swap meet, tac jumps to zero then back up to normal. I pull over and car idles fine. but as i get in the gas it's having trouble picking up to speed while I'm letting the clutch out, I feather it, it gets going then bogs and backfires LOUD AS HELL, lol. at least 20-30 times while I'm getting her home about 5 miles away. I switch out the coil, still the same bogging. then I start checking coil wire, alternator wires and a few other connections, Now it's seems ok, I wish I knew what cause this for future outings. Anybody else have an issue like this.

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

The coil may be getting hot. Make sure it isn't right next to the manifold.

@williamcrazylacyfurmage9953

3 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod When I was able to baby it back home with the issue. CAR ENG STILL HOT, I but in a Bosch Blue Coil in and started it, it would idle fine, but when I hit the gas and hold it down a bit it would idle up and down, up and down back and forth. So I put the flamethrower back and check some wiring connections, Was fixed all of sudden, didn't know what I did to get working again. On a pinto the coil is on the driver side and the exhaust is on the pass side. Thanks.. ALSO, I ran the car for a day when I first put in the Pertronix with the Blue Coil because it was within the specs. I added the Flame thrower the next day since I bought it in a kit.

Had the same thing happen with my pertronix, would not start, called them and they told me on some ford distributors you have to space the shutter wheel up, put an o ring under it and it started rite up, how much is an o ring, why is this not in the instructions? , try it , it might work.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

Good one to mention! Ours was running before. But we will bring this up on the install.

What about the Ford Duraspark from the mid '70s?

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

The Duraspark is pretty bulky. Big box, lots of wires. The Pertronix is pretty elegant.

@LynxStarAuto

5 жыл бұрын

Duraspark is great! However, aftermarket replacement parts are of deplorable quality. Namely the ignition control module which bolts to the fender. If this fails, you are better off fishing for an NOS unit off of eBay or similar. All of the aftermarket solutions fail rather quickly. Also, these units were color coded based on ignition system output. Blue and green boxes were the most common in the 70's and 80's.

Only problem is I have a Mallory dual point. Good thing is they have been great for 2 years and counting

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

I miss my Mallory dual point....had one in my '71 Mach 1 back in the '80s.

Duran spark can run factory tach.

What are the symptoms???

@AutoRestoMod

4 жыл бұрын

Usually with Pertronix it is pretty simple...it will be working then it stops. Coil issues are the other main issues. It will run very trashy, almost like a timing problem.

In fact if you do this your Ford will run so long and so good you'll for get when you tuned it last.

Nice mach1. I have a black 1 Big moter 4spd. Love them. Come on dude swap in the DURASPARK. Nobody has to know, and you can keep the pertronix cash coming in. Promise. I'll even help u. No body has to know.

@AutoRestoMod

4 жыл бұрын

Not crazy about soing a Durabox on this application.

@douglorimer5985

4 жыл бұрын

Sometime you should try it. It's extremely easy and if you pick up the ballast resistor wire coming out of the wire loom which is out of the tack you can also use your tachometer. My tachometer is the original one and it still works and hooked up to the duraspark ignition. By myself have experience the pertronix ignition when it didn't work. And when I seen it was hooked up to the ballast resistor wire I told the guy sorry I can't help you. Mainly because I didn't understand the pertronix system and Lee didn't have the to learn. But in close to 40 years of using duraspark ignition I have held 1 module go bad. And it still did not stall me completely I made it home change module and was good to go. But I understand National Parts Depot is paying the bills, keep up the good work I do enjoy the show.

.030" gap

The resister wire comes out of the tach. So start there and run you new wire to feed you new DURASPARK IGNITION. PROBLEM SOLVED.

With Duran spark you can run the small cap and no 1 will know ,for the rest guys.

I'm not the biggest fan of these igniter systems. Seems they fail a lot. Sure, really improve overall performance, but my god that igniter loves to fail.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

I think the failure rate may have more to do with ground issues that the unit. I've used them in 4 cars no issues. I for one never checked for good grounds until this unit. I

@LynxStarAuto

5 жыл бұрын

Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media Could be, but here in my area (Miami, FL.) the heavy traffic, and heat I'm sure plays a role. Also wanted to note, if you run one of these on a 4 or 6 cylinder engine, you will need a special internal resistor coil Pertronix sells. I installed one of these recently on a Corvair, and it requires a 3.0 ohm coil.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

Good point!

Duraspark......on the shelf...... 5 minutes.

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

That is an option.

It's a switch, not an amp

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

Okey dokey!

So I'm just going to take a wild guess here but is pertronix paying you to promote there goofy stuff.

you know what a petronix ignition would look good on...... a 61 Starliner..........just saying

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

YES! Though...you really can't SEE it...only it's results...👍😀