So, so good. Regrettably I had already done a long tail cast on but I will definitely use this method next time. Plus your point about the struggle to line up rows of stitches when using the other methods prompted me to run a contrast thread through each stitch of my cast on edge so I could more easliy check I was picking up each one consecutively. So many garments out there must be an order of quality higher because of your tutorials! You’re an international knitting treasure. Are there knitting awards? You deserve an OKE (Order of the Knitting Empire) 🏅 Or a Knithood.

Roxanne, your tutorials are always so clear! We can see exactly what you are doing with needles and stitches, with the knitting "in front of us". As usual, this was a great tutorial - thanks!

What I really like about this, apart from it being fast, easy and accurate, is that the hem remains flexible, unlike a cast-one beginning which people often make tighter than the main knitting, which in turn makes it less comfortable to wear (as well as less attractive to look at). (For those who have a problem with too-tight cast-ons - forget about casting on with larger needles unless you're doing a knitted cast on of some time with a single tail. For any "two tail" or "long tail" methods use your ordinary sized needle and space all your stitches further apart from each other as you make each one. It can take a bit of practice to get the amount of yarn worked into your cast on overall just right but it will work. A long tail cast on with stitches made close together just makes taller stitches that are still tight at the bottom because the thread forming the stitches round the needle is a separate thread to the one forming the base of the cast on. So the extra yarn from the larger stitches going round the needle, regardless of how much bigger it is, can't "donate" anything to the cast on base and it only has the length you gave the base to each stitch as you made each one. However, for a long tail or single tail cast on it is the same thread forming both the stitches round the needle and the base so a larger needle will help. I'm not sure if Roxanne has done a little video on this but it is easy to test for yourself in just a few minutes with a bit of scrap yarn.)

I’ve only done this on a double brim hat. Can’t wait to try it on a hemmed sweater. Thanks so much. Great explanation as always. I’d love you to do a tutorial on bust shaping using short rows. My sweater is knit bottom up and there isn’t much out there on exactly how to work out the numbers and how to knit it.

Very professional looking. Bookmarked!

I LOVE this method! Thank you Roxanne!

Lovely finishing technique. Thank you.

Hi Roxanne. Great technique! Your sweater hem looks beautiful! Thanks for sharing!💕

Great idea with excellent finish. 🇬🇧

This is a fantastic idea, I didn't know about this. I don't like sewing garments much so really looking forward to trying it. Thank you for organising this tutorial, you have my full attention. Take care.

Brilliant - as usual. Thank you.

I use it for hat brims on sticking hats. It makes for a nice thick brim to keep ears warms.

I'm excited to try this technique on my next folded hem. I've used a crocheted provisional cast on with waste yarn before, but I find it tedious to go back, pick up the stitches, and remove the waste yarn. I always look forward to your videos on Tuesdays and Fridays!

Thank you, I've been trying to figure this out for sometime. 🤔

Thank you...great tutorial!

Thank you sooooo much! I am making Christmas stockings in the round. The top is a hem with an icord sandwiched and poking though so to provide strength for hanging. It is so fiddly picking up the cast on stitches that I have been using a crochet hook. It is slow going.

I been doing this already, but thank you!

Fantastic

That’s really cool… I’ve never seen that!

Very nice!

So cool

This looks so nicely finished! Do you have any tips for how to make the hem on a top-down sweater look this nice?

@RoxanneRichardson

2 жыл бұрын

There are a few things I can think of that could give a good result, but you're not going to be able to get this same result working entirely from the top down.

Thank you Roxanne, a brilliant tutorial. May I ask what make and type of needle the red one is please….I like the points of them thank you.

@RoxanneRichardson

2 жыл бұрын

Information about the yarn and needles used is in the video description, :-)

Thanks for this great demonstration, I just used this metohod for an elastic band on top of a skirt, the pattern recommanded a smaller needle size for the inside part of the hem, which I did, I am wondering if it is also a good idea for the hem of a sweater or the hem of sleeves or even on a folded neck band. What is your opinion on that? I know, I know I can always swatch and check the difference, but I was more wondering on the long term if the hem would look and stay better.

@RoxanneRichardson

2 жыл бұрын

The idea is that the inside circumference will be smaller than the outside circumference, so using a smaller needle helps to create that smaller circumference in the hem. I find that I have an issue compensating for the difference in row gauge, particularly if there is a turning row (RS purl). That is, you need the inside and outside hem to be the same length exactly in order for the purl row/round to hit at the correct place. For this sweater, the hem was entirely knit with a smaller needle, and there was no turning row. I felt like it worked really well, so now I'm ambivalent about whether or not it makes sense to use a different needle on the inside vs the outside.

@nicolelafontaine1720

2 жыл бұрын

@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks I agree with you about the difference in row gauge. The turning point was measured in lenght rather than rows, it didn't make a huge difference since I have 12 rows in 3.5 mm outside and 12 rows in 3 mm inside with a dK cotton. I see your point, though, I inserted a large elastic band and the purl row sits eactly on top, just a bit tilted towards the back closer to the skin. I guess I'd have to experiment on an hem. Thanks for taking time to answer, I value your opinion a lot.

Hi. Love your videos - keep them coming. Just have one question.. how do you knit the perfect hems using three needle join, 'in the round'? Ta

@RoxanneRichardson

Жыл бұрын

Each set of sts is on its own circ. It's helpful when knitting the hem prior to joining that the PCO edge is on a circ that is quite a bit larger than the circumference of the item, so that all the sts can rest on the cable, allowing the tips to dangle out of the way.

Awesome video! What do you recommend for an afterthought hat casing? I'm adding one by grafting to the inside of the fabric, and it's slow and messy

@RoxanneRichardson

2 жыл бұрын

I'm not sure what you mean by an afterthought casing?

@ramona6902

2 жыл бұрын

@@RoxanneRichardson I blocked incorrectly a hat resulting in a larger circumference. I picked up stitches on the cast on edge and knitted a hem to insert an elastic. Now I'm grafting the hem to the wrong side of the hat but the result is not pretty

How would you seam the vertical edges closed later? For example if you are joining two panels of a sweater and need to mattress stitch the folded hem to another folded hem, how would you go about that? Thanks! Wonderful video as always.

@RoxanneRichardson

2 ай бұрын

In the example sweater, I started on the inside of the sweater, where the two layers were joined, and then used mattress stitch down to the edge, and around it to the RS, and then up from there.

@kiwipear70

2 ай бұрын

@@RoxanneRichardson That makes alot of sense! Thank you so much!

Thanks Roxanne, this is such a neat finish, I will definitely try it. Just one question, does this hem stay flat or may have a tendency for flipping up?

@RoxanneRichardson

2 жыл бұрын

Presuming it's long enough and you wash and block it, it should be fine. My hem was about an inch long (10 rows in a fingering weight yarn) and it's fine.

@aminavarga5944

2 жыл бұрын

@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks so much!

Hey, great video as usual! I just want to point out what I think is a typo. At 8.35 when you go to Other Uses it says Three Need Join..

@RoxanneRichardson

2 жыл бұрын

Yep -- unfortunately, it's too late to fix it now! :-)

I'm curious if this would work when making a Latvian mitten. I have made 2 pairs now where you do the picot hem. I knit 6 rows in the round, then one purling in the round, then 6 knitted in the round and join together to form the hem. It certainly isn't easy when using size 1 or 2 needle size. Can this be done in the round and if so, how would that work? Thanks.

@RoxanneRichardson

2 жыл бұрын

I mentioned in the video that if you were working in the round, after working across that first row of sts, you would then join in the round. The process for joining the PCO to the live sts when hemming is the same as for flat knitting.

@cyndylee544

2 жыл бұрын

@@RoxanneRichardson I guess I just need to do some practicing to work it out. Thanks.

I work in Double Knitting for a double thick fabric such as a Hem, Cuff, or Hat Brim. I’ve never seen a tutorial for working this way, which makes me wonder if there’s a disadvantage in the way I do it. Is there any reason you can think of why Double Knitting wouldn’t be suitable?

@RoxanneRichardson

2 жыл бұрын

It's just another way of getting to the same endpoint. The best way to know if *you* like something better (either the result or the process) is to try it the other way and see what *you* think.

Does this method work with color work? For example, adding a pattern to the outside of a hat with a hem. Will knitting the two together distort the color on the outside?

@RoxanneRichardson

Жыл бұрын

There's more than one way to form a hem like this. Many knitters use a smaller needle for the inside portion of the hem, of 10% fewer sts, increasing before a turning row (done as a round of purls on the RS). That reduces the internal circumference of the hem, which would reduce the stretch on the outer circumference. The best way to know if you get a result you're satisfied with is to experiment on a swatch.

@steelonius

Жыл бұрын

@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you so much!!

I’m knitting bottom-up sweater and the hem is in 1x1 ribbing, can I still use this method?

@RoxanneRichardson

3 ай бұрын

Yes. If you're ever in doubt about how a technique can be used, try it out on a swatch and see what you think of the result.

My search function is being stubborn... Have you done a tutorial for casting on with a color change? I have seen multiple tutorials for adding color mid-work, but there is very little out there showing the best way to change colors at the very beginning- at the cast on. Also- is it possible to change your type of cast on midway? Maybe you are doing a pattern that requires you to go from stockinette stitch to 1x1 ribbing and you want the cast on edge to flow from something like a long tail to an Italian cast on? Never seen it done. Maybe it is not possible? Or maybe someone just hasn't figured it out yet...

@RoxanneRichardson

Жыл бұрын

I'm not understanding what you mean by changing colors at "the beginning." Are you asking how to switch between colors in the middle of the cast on process? Like a mid-row color change (vs a beginning of row change). You'd have to pick a CO method that makes this easy (probably a one-strand CO), and you have to decide how fussy you want to be about skewing of the color at the edge. The COs that would likely give the best result might not be the easiest to execute. Rather than changing what sort of cast on you're using during a particular span of sts when changing stitch patterns, select a cast on that works well with all of them. The tubular CO works well with 1x1 ribbing, but it's not a requirement. Stockinette is going to roll at the edge, so you are unlikely to even see the CO edge. Instead, use a cast on that allows you to cast on in pattern. The LTCO is extremely versatile in this regard. Here's a video that explains that: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eWaHpdaMdKe5qtY.html