Are you saying that with the braided welt, this maker uses a wider waist than with the other two for the sake of visual balance? Or that this is done out of necessity? For instance, could you find the braided, triple stitching on one of the first two shoes with the more narrow waists? Great video, btw, sand as always, beautiful shoes! 👍🏻

Nice!

@Shellvedge

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Also a fan of Norwegian construction shoes. Currently in discussion with Phillip on my first Saint Crispin's MTO boot MOD605, can't quite make up my mind on a 180 or 270 degree stitch. 270 is more purposeful but also like the pegged waist. Hmm.

@Shellvedge

2 жыл бұрын

Go with your gut! Just because I like something, doesn’t mean everyone has yo

So dummy question. What does the Norwegian stitch do exactly. I know looks good and water proofing. But what is it stitching the upper to? The welt? Then the welt is down onto the sole?

@Shellvedge

2 жыл бұрын

It’s a legitimate question. The Norwegian construction typically has 2 rows of stitching, one into the upper and insole, one threw the upper and a midsole, and then the outsole is attached to that. The braided Norwegian covers those 2 rows of stitching so you just see the braided. But a lot of the current Norwegian construction looks similar to a standard welted construction, where as some of the more casual, robust versions have the upper folded outwards on top of the midsole or outsole.

@186bingo

2 жыл бұрын

@@Shellvedge thanks for the thorough explanation. You’re an encyclopedia! I have the stitch on a couple Paolo Scafora and have a fake Norwegian stitch on a couple of cheaper shoes. Never knew how it works. Thanks!

I was perfectly fine with 270 degree Norwegian welt ‘til i saw this video... Now I’m team 360

@Shellvedge

2 жыл бұрын

Awesome! Both are great, just my preference!

True Norwegian welting means the upper is sewn on the insole (preferably a 5mm thick leather one, split along the edge) with a horizontal stitch and a welt added over the upper so that the stitches don't cut into it. Then the welt and the upper are flaired outwards and sewn with a vertical rapid stitch to the mid/outsole. The true utility of this construction is to waterpeoof high quality work or hike boots or a long gone era that lasted for decades.