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No. 1 Noma Kyoto Pop up 拜訪世界第一餐廳 Noma 京都快閃

Noma 快閃實驗造訪過東京、澳大利亞、墨西哥,這次選擇京都是一個浪漫的過程,René 在一個偶然的情況下看Ace Hotel Kyoto建築師在Instagram 上的一張照片,飯店將建立於1926年的京都老建築改造外加新建全新大樓。就主動寫信詢問疫情結束後能否來做快閃,幾經波折,直到日本宣布開放的時間比預期中晚,Noma 京都終於正式啟動,
Noma has operated pop-ups in Tokyo, Australia and Mexico, and this time it takes place at the Ace Hotel in Kyoto. It was by chance that René saw a photo on Instagram of the hotel, a 1926 building renovated and extended by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma. René asked if Noma could come to the hotel to do a pop-up and Noma Kyoto was finally decided after Japan announced lifting covid restrictions on foreign tourists.
René 就從哥本哈根帶了 103 人的團隊來執行為期十週的餐廳。我三月在京都做美食研究(趕稿子)時遇見這個陣仗,當時團隊剛下兩部遊覽車,酒店大堂滿滿的人潮,有些是兩年多前的熟面孔,主廚Kenneth Foong 說到他對這一季的菜單非常有信心,當天晚上也終於見到在Noma工作的中國廚師Mario,著實讓我很期待 Noma Kyoto 的表現。
For the 10-week residency at the Ace Hotel, René brought a crew of 103 people. I was in Kyoto in March doing culinary research (catching up on my writing) when I saw the team getting off two tour buses. And I could recognize some familiar faces from the crowd: chef Kenneth Foong said he was very confident about the menu this season; that evening I also met Mario, a Chinese chef working at Noma. I was really looking forward to what Noma Kyoto has to offer.
以往拜訪過多次Noma,然而再次提筆已是幾年後,我著實思考了。這次2.0的新書裡面有兩個季度的菜品, 也是我過去流逝的回憶。精確的說 ,Noma 的菜品無一不是在展現食材的最佳狀態,透過超乎想像的繁複傳統方式的工藝傳達,說是原生態(wild)也是複古。野生的氣息,接近真實,不矯揉造作,卻耗時費力。這次以 Noma 2.0 的精神來致敬京都這座古老而優雅的城市,從食材的選用、料理的作法與呈現都非常的在地化。
It's been a few years since I wrote about Noma again, and I've really thought it through. The new Noma 2.0 cookbook contains dishes spanning two seasons, evoking memories of the past. As it has for years, the restaurant explores the possibilities of a full range of ingredients, presenting the best of them conveyed through an unimaginably elaborate process that is both wild and traditional, unpretentious but time-consuming. In the spirit of Noma 2.0, the Kyoto pop-up pays true homage to the city’s profound history and diverse culture, with local approach in ingredient selection, preparation and presentation.
00:00 No. 1 Noma Kyoto Pop up 拜訪世界第一餐廳
00:25 Talk with Chef René 與主廚René談話
00:29 Why Kyoto pop up? 為什麼要做京都pop up呢?
01:03 Noma in Japan Noma的日式風情
01:23 Dish Intro 菜色介紹
02:36 Seaweed Talk 昆布解說
02:59 Dish Intro 菜色介紹
05:10 Sansai 山菜
05:29 Dish Intro 菜色介紹
06:58 Ending 結語
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