You've shown me more information on my camera in less then 15 mins than my photography teacher has shown me in 2 years. Thanks

@BluYotePhoto

8 жыл бұрын

+Joel Jr. Leal Very happy that this is helpful! If there are any other cameras or topics you would like to see, let me know! Thanks!

@kenyeresgellert

7 жыл бұрын

Great Vid Mate! Light metering with flash would be nice too

@oliviawennerstrom5941

3 ай бұрын

This is like 8 years too late but my photographer teacher said he would show us how to use these on Friday and then wasn't there to teach us Friday and then told everyone that all our cameras had to be turned in by Monday no exceptions... This video has been soo so so helpful 😭

Good demonstration video for this camera. I bought mine in 1976 in Japan (Nikomat FT2), along with four lenses to match it. From 1962, I had previously used a Nikkorex F (made for Nikon my Mamiya) and a single 50mm 1.4, just like the one shown here except mine is Pre-AI of course. The wonky meter to lens indexing he shows here is exactly the same for all Nikon and Nikkormat cameras up through the FT2. Nikon planned to introduce its "great leap forward" into the AI meter indexing mechanics in 1977. The first AI model was the FT3, which was an FT2 with a modified meter coupling on the mount. This was replaced by the first FM model a year later, being the first entirely new Nikon model with AI metering. As he suggests in the video, the AI coupling is automatic, in that you just mount the lens (f-stop set wherever) and this indexes the meter to the lens without any matching of pin to "rabbit ears" or aperture ring maneuvers. The pre-AI bodies will not index to AI lenses unless they have the "claw connector", and they will often not mount the AI lenses because there can be mechanical interference. The FT3 and early FM models accommodate this problem by hinging the AI coupling arm so it can swing out of the way to avoid interference with pre-AI lenses, however this feature disappeared from newer models after a few years, in favor of a single, fixed-piece arm, probably because it was cheaper to make. In fairness to Nikon, it did offer to take in users' pre-AI lenses and rebuild them to fit and meter on AI indexing bodies, charging $25 including shipping. This was so cheap that many pre-AI lenses were modified then, and those lenses are often impossible to tell from original AI lenses, unless you dig into serial numbers or know a great deal about the details of the conversion process. (I had all of my pre-AI lenses modified, except for my 50mm 1.4 from 1962, which for some reason was one of the few Nikon did not modify. Years later, I had the 50mm modified by a private repairman.)

Very, very helpful video. Thank you. I shot for years with a Nikon F2 - but was always baffled by the Nikkormat. Now I get it! Bravo.

Great overview! One of the best overviews I've seen. I was trying to work out mounting and dismounting the lens. You showed it perfectly.

Great video thank you. I picked up one of these today and was baffled by some of the quirks!

I received an FT2 from my dad. He took most of the early family shots on it, while giving it to me he didn't have much time to explain things about it. Thanks for all the info... maybe i can take shots of my family on it now.

Exactly what i needed now and Lo it's here.Thank you so much for a straight forward tutorial.

My favorite of all the Nikkormats! Thank you!

thank you for this video! you explained everything so well, it was exactly what I needed

Great Video you touched on some items that I have not seen yet, specifically the ASA setting instructions. Keep up the good work.

This is the camera I learned photography with. The light meter on top was very handy, when taking macro shots from low down. You could purchase a right angle viewer, to make low shots even easier. My favorite camera, ever.

Thank you for a comprehensive review of the FT2. I would add that the camera has a mirror lock up (MLU) slider on the side. A really good feature for reducing camera shake on slow shutter speeds. I personally own most of the Nikkormat series of cameras and enjoy the very solid build more so than my FM series cameras. I like the shutter feel and sound of the Nikkormats which is more muted and seems more dampened than the more modern FM. If you ever get a hold of the Nikkormat EL cameras, the oddity of those are the "secretly" located battery compartment. Thanks again!

Mine's on the way! Have a Nikon FM which I purchased in 1980 and it is an excellent camera. Nikkormat FT3 was my choice when I was shopping for my first 35 mm film SLR back in late 1970's; then when the FM came out bought one of those instead. However the Nikkormat never lost it's appeal to me and found a good one and ordered it. All my Nikkor AI and other maker's AI compatible lenses should work on the FT2 with the exception of a Nikon E series 28mm lens, which does not have the meter coupling 'fork'. Lots of people would consider a Nikkormat a step back from a Nikon FM but I just wanted one of these classic cameras.

Great tutorial boss, really helped out

Nice video. I still have the Nikkormat FT (1965) and the Olympus OM-1 and they are still firing. I send them regularly for CLA. I shoot digital but I still go back to film from time to time, there's that special sense of actually taking a real photo. I recently got a 100-500mm AI lens for my Nikon.

its a superb camera by nikon.i love the depth of field lever on the top.viewfinder is brilliant.shutter sound is super

This was super helpful, thank you very much!

Thanks for the info!! Just brought this from a thrift store starting my film journey! 😊

Very useful, neat video, helped a lot, thank you!

Great video. A lot of people back OFF ecause of the Lens mounting. But very well explained!!!

Thanks for this video! Helped me with few things

Nikkormat series began in 1965 with the FT, then in about late 1967, the FTn appears. That model was sold into 1975, over a million were made. And they are all mechanical marvels of engineering! Next was the FT2. Sold up to about 1977 when the beautiful and smaller Nikon FM was introduced. Only about a quarter million of the FT2 were sold. But, well worth having if you can find a good one. These Nikkormats are all metal and heavy! I use mine mostly in studio or on a sturdy tripod. For around the neck carry? Get the FM !

Great video, very useful! Thank you!

I just came into two FTn bodies and an FT2. As far as I can tell, the only significant differences are the FT2 has a built-in hot shoe, was the first to have the 60/40 Nikon metering ratio, and added the little locking tab to set the film speed. FTn was the first to have the "lens registration" by turning the aperture ring immediately after mounting the lens. Another cool thing -- these cameras can even use semi-modern autofocus lenses (as long as the lens is set to manual), AI and AIs -- as long as they're older than AIs-G. If the lens lacks the "rabbit ears" coupling fork, however, you're limited to stop-down metering -- close down the DOF preview in order to read accurate exposure. Right now, I have an autofocus macro zoom that came with a D70 mounted on my FT2 -- and everything works except the open-aperture metering.

What a cool camera. Sometime in the future I'd like to get one and pair it with the 55 f/3.5 micro-nikkor.

Excellent video.

Still have mine; love it. Like new condition.

Great video informative short and to the point. I’am thinking about going back into film with a vintage camera and good basic overviews are great . I was always a canon a line ( I had ae1 and a1) shooter but I want to see what else is out there.

I just got mine as of today. Very helpful video. Thanks. (Only my ISO not move!)

@jesterger

5 жыл бұрын

You have to pull out the little pin, to free the ISO adjuster.

Very helpful, thank you

So the 'quirk' with the meter being upside down (- on top, + on bottom) - that's always been a nikon thing, and still is to this day! Even the modern Nikon digital cameras, the positive exposure is on the left, and the negative exposure is on the right. So when metering, if you look at the gauge from left-to-right, you're actually going from brighter exposure (left) to darker exposure (right.). You can reverse it in the menus, and I've actually always had mine reversed for 20 years now. However I'm a college photography instructor, and I always had to remind myself that any students in the class with Nikons, their menus were 'normal' Nikon, meaning they were reversed!

Wow! Nice quick hands on review and tutorial. Thanks for your great video I will get mine this week. Your tutorial is really great here it's help me very much!

I once took the Nikkormat out in -40 below freezing take pictures of some soldiers still at the range. In two minutes the battery died, and then the lens froze shut. So I had to thaw it on a car heater before I could take more pictures. As for metering, I just had to wing it, but it worked out perfectly.

Thank you soooooooo much :D Now I know why the lightmeter didnt work :D THANKS!

The Nikkormat was consider the prototype of the Nikon FM as they were built like TANKS, as I still have my first Nikkormat from 1975 as once that I was at Fort Point in SF, and that my camera strap lug ring was weak, and the strap came off as my camera fell from the third floor to he second floor ALL CONCRETE floor, as the only thing that broke was the metal lens hood that the camera functions, shutter, and meter still work!. So like I said it is like a tank. Then I got the next camera was a a Nikon F, and another Nikon F, and then another Nikon F with a F36 drive, and then another Nikkormat ELW with winder, and then a FM then finally the FG. As I also got Nikon Point n Shoot AF35's. As yes I am a Nikon Person as then later in working at a camera store that I change my independent lenses to all Nikkors lenses. So I am happy until when I switch to Digital, that in what I got were Fuji S3Pro, and S5Pro followed by the Xpro1, and XE1 in using the Nikkor lenses for shooting digital. Also in Ending I would clean off the tape residue on your lens - try Lighter fluid, and cotton pads. if you do not clean it that the focusing barrel (NOT THE LENS) might effect the focusing on your lens also that the residue will dry out turning into a powder residue that will enter into your lens glass elements or otherwise got another lens - May I suggest the 50mm f/2.0 it is a much Sharper lens than the 1.1.4. But you know since that in working at a camera store for 34 years I see things, and mention to them....

excellent

Than you so much for this video! That light meter alignment was confusing me!

I owe you big time for the iso bottom! 👍😏

I have a Nikkormat FT2, when putting on my flash mount on the camera, I noticed the whole flash mount is slightly crooked! Way did they do this?

if u don't mind me asking where do u get your film ?and what type of battery do u use ? if u could just help me out with the i would be so grateful , thank you 😃

I have the all black version with a 50mm f1.4 ai s-c lens which is very sharp. The Ft2 is my favourite 35mm slr. My only gripe is that the wind on lever when in the closed position doesn't stop the shutter from firing. My FE will only fire with the red button is showing under the wind on lever. Less wasted film. I would say for beginners to film photography the FE is the very best

Mine doesn't have the "hot shoe" for flash photography but it has this "female" plug for the the "male prong". I am looking for a tutorial to have the flash tripping mechanism fixed. Its' been about 30 years I have been looking for some place to get it fixed. Maybe I am not stting it up on the proper shutter speed. I forgot what shutter speed that would be.

what is the switch next to the lens

A solid, reliable camera with the non-AI mount.

What if I have an f/8 lens?

+BluYote Photo hey man, what lenses will be compatible with this? is it hard to get your hands on a lense from the time? (60's to 70's). also, what lense are you using here and what would you reccomend? thanks for the help

@BluYotePhoto

8 жыл бұрын

+nick dwyer As a general rule, all Nikon F lenses except the autofocus ones will work on this camera! So that is 40 years worth of Nikon lenses (1956-1986) to choose from! You have a TON of lenses to choose from! Just make sure the lens you are buying has the aperture claw (described in the video at 2:55) to engage the pin on the camera body. The best tip I can give you, is to go on ebay and search for "Nikon lens non AI" or "Nikon lens manual focus" simply because the AI enabled lenses are more desirable since they work on new Nikon digital cameras while the lenses made before they invented AI will only work on their very old cameras, including the FT range.

@mracdcjailbreak

8 жыл бұрын

BluYote Photo thank you very much! cant wait to get mine! ive subscribed to your channel as well, this tutorial was awesome! thanks again

I get that the aperture has to be placed on 5.6 in order to work, however does shutter speed or iso need to be placed on a certain position?

@michaelappleyard6300

Жыл бұрын

No. Just make sure that the pin is pushed all the way to the right (when looking at the front of the camera body) before you offer up the lens. The aperture should be pre-set to f5.6, just like you said.

Yeah, Nikon lightmeters have always been in 'reverse' even with modern cameras. It's is a bit anti intuitive for me but you get used to it. Nikon are weirdos. I don't have one of these, but I'm looking for one for collection purposes. I use a comparable Pentax Spotmatic SPII quite regularly mainly because there are myriad of fantastic, cheap M42 lenses with bags of character out there and it just feels really nice to use in good mechanical condition. I can just about pop off 4 frames a second (although I wouldn't do that practically as I don't shoot action with it anyway). Great video, thanks!

The reason for the strange lens-mounting procedure on the Nikkormats FT, FTn, FT2 and EL is that the original Nikon F used EXTERNAL light meter cells. This meant that the camera body had to know the ACTUAL aperture setting in order to calculate the required shutter speed. When Through-The-lens (TTL) metering was introduced later on the Nikon F, and later at the launch of the Nikkormat FT series, the camera body then only needed to know the DIFFERENCE between the taking aperture and the maximum aperture in order for open-aperture metering to work. A full rotation of the aperture ring, each time a lens is mounted, is required to transmit this DIFFERENCE information to the camera body. [Note that, if the metering is carried out with the lens stopped down (e.g. with the depth-of-field button pressed or, if using a lens that does not have an automatic aperture-closing mechanism), there is no need to tell the TTL meter what the actual aperture setting is. This is because the TTL meter will be measuring the actual light which reaches the film and so it does not need to know the f-stop number as such.] The later AI (Automatic Indexing) system (introduced on the Nikkormat FT3) relays the above-mentioned aperture DIFFERENCE information to the camera body in a much simplified way which does not involve communicating the actual f-stop number. A ridge is provided on the back of the aperture ring. This makes contact with a tooth on a spring-loaded collar which rotates around the lens mount. The ridge on the lens is always positioned at the same distance (4 stops) from the maximum aperture engraving on the aperture ring of the lens, for all Nikon AI lenses. The ridge automatically comes into contact with the tooth on the collar when the lens is rotated during mounting. This solution provides the meter with a reading of how many stops difference there are between the taking aperture and the maximum aperture. If the Nikon F had used TTL metering from the start of its production, I guess that all the Nikon F-Mount lenses could have been designed with the simpler AI coupling from the outset and this would have saved Nikon and its customers a ton of trouble later on! You can tell a proper Nikon AI lens by three features: (A) The ridge on the back of the aperture ring, (B) An additional aperture scale at the back of the aperture ring - this is used to enable the f-stop setting to be visible in the viewfinder via a periscope on the later FM, FE, FA etc. cameras, (C) The small windows in the "Rabbit Ears" (i.e. the fork) on the lens which were added so that enough light reached the "f5.6" engraving for it to be visible via the periscope in low light conditions.

well done

I just was gifted one of these and a canon ae-1

The reason the DoF button is where it is is to prevent you tripping the shutter with it pressed in.

His 50mm 1.4 was made long before the AI mount system was introduced in 1977. I bought mine in 1962.. What you see here is an old lens which has been modified to upgrade it to AI operation. In 1977, Nikon offered owners of pre-AI lenses a service to replace parts to do the AI upgrade. Nikon also offered little parts kits to repair shops to do the job. What I find interesting is that at the time I had all of my lenses except one modified by Nikon. The exception was this 50mm, being informed by Nikon that they did not offer the service for this lens. Yet, this lens is modified, and the parts to do it look exactly like what you would expect from a Nikon modification. Very curious! (Years later, I had my 50mm AI modified by an independent repairman, who modifies the original parts to do the job. Yeh, I know I blew the value of that lens as a bit of a collectors item.)

How to change battery? Screwed battery compartment cover counter-clockwise with a coin but can't get it to screw all the way out and can't pry it out either..help? Thanks.

@GSchmitable

4 жыл бұрын

I have one, it only requires a quarter turn in the direction of arrow "o" to open.

@thomasmoje5926

4 жыл бұрын

@@GSchmitable Got tired of fighting with it no longer an issue: returned the camera back to the seller for a full refund, and replaced it with an Ftn Photomic for not much more money, so it's all good.

I have these lens. How can i use these lens with my fujifilm xt100?

@mvonwalter6927

4 жыл бұрын

Any Nikon F to Fuji X adapter will work.

Full review of maxxum 7 please!

@BluYotePhoto

8 жыл бұрын

+Dominic Clarke its finally here! kzread.info/dash/bejne/l4aZsZaSc8XPnbQ.html

That lens is actually ai converted, it was originally an ai lens but was later coverted to ai so it could be used with the newer cameras. Yo can tell because no ai lens had that old style metal focus ring, they all had rubber.

Dumbest question ever: i pulled out my Nikkormat that i got sometime in the 70's. Its probably been 20 years since i used it last in which i kept it free from dust. Guess what? I cannot get the lens CAP off! I never had this issue ever. I'm pushing in the two tabs that normally release the cover...but its not budging. Im wondering if there is some button that i need to push first that ive forgotten about. Any clues or tip from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!! xoPam, still Kelli's mom

@randallstewart175

2 жыл бұрын

Over the many years, Nikon changed the basic design of their lens cap mechanism. The original caps were threaded, so they could screw into the front threads of the lens. However, they were also split so with two little chrome buttons on the cap rim, you could squeeze the buttons to depress the threaded ring inside and just pop the cap off. These are plastic caps with metal internal parts. Later, Nikon changed the design to replace the full internal threaded ring with two plastic sprung tabs which just jam into the lens threads to hold the cap on. You cannot unscrew these. Still later, that design replaced the two external buttons with two squeeze "panels" inside the front of the cap, but same basic function. If you can squeeze the buttons/tabs so they actually depress, then you are getting a mechanical release. Just depress and pry the cap off. It's probably just stuck on there. If the buttons/tabs are not depressing, then the internal mechanism is frozen. For this, carefully cut the cap in half and pry off the pieces. Aren't you sorry you don't have a local camera store to pop into and have the guy pull the cap for you? Blame the internet.

@KelliLaineLewis

2 жыл бұрын

@@randallstewart175 Thank you SO much!! I really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge and give me some things to try. I worked on the cap after reading your suggestions. I can tell one tab is not acting the same as the other. I just moved- so I need to find my small tools & if I can't get it off I am sure there is at least one really good old school camera store in Charlotte & I will take it in there. Its interesting knowing the changes they made on the cap! Again, THANK YOU!! Much gratitude~ Pam, still Kelli's mom

Was this a professional camera before the mass automated SLR's of the late 70s

@ivanpelcic3967

7 жыл бұрын

No, it was for advance user or back up camera for professionals, Nikon's F line was for professional use!

@lucadessardo528

5 жыл бұрын

@Thomas Headley And how does this answer his question whether this was or not a professional camera in the 60s?

Thats a pre-ai lens converted probably by Nikon. BTW 'd like to see a 1960s Canon lens that fits a Modern Canon without adapters or modification...

Go with an F2, trust me on that

I'm glad you didn't say knee-kon

Hey I have that lens!

@ethanpod8139

Жыл бұрын

My FTN has many issues, one with the light meter, two with the exposures I have left, three with the fact the front plastic leather is peeling away.

@ethanpod8139

Жыл бұрын

Oh and the ASA is broken...

Amen!

AI has 2 rows of f-stops

I wish americans would STOP saying NYKON it is not BLOODY NYKON

@ghw7192

4 жыл бұрын

Ok, KNEEKON...

@neilpiper9889

3 жыл бұрын

So Zeiss IKON is pronounced eekon

@hansemannluchter643

Жыл бұрын

​@@neilpiper9889 yes.

God if you don’t know much about Nikons, why make a video?