Cool work! Having done a fair bit of refractory casting myself, this was good to see. Some pointers: - Your aim is to have an insulating refractory, so heavy tamping increases the density and hence insulating effect. Much better to use a vibrator to get the mix to settle and remove its own air pockets. We found that with an apparently "dry" mix, moist material came to the top and left a nice smooth top surface - Always mix the dry ingredients first. It results in a better mix before you add water - Be careful of adding too much water. Refractory castables have a very definite water/dry mix ratio that has a small sweet spot: too much or too little and you do not get the best cementation effect in the finished product. When we cast our first unit, we measured carefully and it intuitively felt too dry and we added just a bit more water. Wrong!!! - One of the things I did when making lower temperature insulation was to use finely sifted sawdust. The mix was good quality clay (which is mostly alumino silicate) mixed with sand on a 4:1 ratio(sand gives it mechanical hardness and acts like gravel in concrete) and then that mixture was mixed on a 1:1 ratio with the sawdust. This mixture requires firing in an oven so that you dry it out gently and then take the temperature up. As the material heats up past 300oC the sawdust begins to pyrolyse and by 900oC it has effectively been burnt out of the mixture leaving it porous. It made a nice light and fairly durable casting for use in gasifiers. In this case, I would add glass fibre strands as suggested into the dry mix to give the mix more structural strength as your temperatures are much higher. - just some thoughts.. PS: Try this trick: use polyethylene sandwich wrap on the refractory side of the mold. Makes mold removal less of a headache...

@LozHarrop

8 жыл бұрын

+Rex Zietsman Thanks for that Rex, no doubt I will be doing more castings on my next build and will try out some of your suggestions Good call on the water content of the mixture...Cheers.

Great video!. Please be careful with the dust rising from the perlite. That stuff is a hazard to the lungs and the respiratory system.

This is very generous and kind, thank you! Guys like you are literally opening up peoples minds to getting somewhat off grid! At the very least, this will help people realise they are burning far more than they should! Thanks again from North wales! :)

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Kevin Chamberlain No problem Kevin. Cheers.

Just did my riser and fire chamber out of perlite and high temp refractory mortar. I went with 1 part mortar and 2 parts perlite, which turned out perfect. I let it sit for a week to cure and fired it up yesterday for a couple hours and it works perfect! I've decided to go with a 4" burn tube and 6" riser, with a little curve at the end of the tube like yours to create a vortex (making the flame spin up the riser tube) Now to start on building the square box around the tube. Mine with have a firebox for log wood that can be removed and replaced with a gravity fed pellet burner, which I perfected on my last stove. It's unreal how hot these things get with so little wood!

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

+Painter D Glad it worked out well for you, be sure to post up a video maybe when you get finished. Your new riser will store alot of heat I know mine is still warm the next morning after a good burn.

Thank You for not editing out your mistakes. I learned from them how to do mine better. saved me from the same problem. Also will help me to fix if I have a situation similar.

@LozHarrop

7 жыл бұрын

thanks

Spot on.Some years ago had my chimney lined,used pumice very lite like snow flakes.Mixed with cement and pumped down chimney.Seems pretty strong stuff and very good insulator.Got a sack some where. So I must pull my finger out.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

ROBERT AITKEN Cheers Robert, yea get to it mate.

Fascinating stuff, really looking forward to seeing how it progresses.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

phrayzar cheers Mate.

Very nice work, and thank you very much for sharing. You have inspired me to build a rocket heater with castable refractory as well.

@LozHarrop

8 жыл бұрын

+70kirkster Thanks mate, good on ya.

Thanks Informative. Interesting to know from experience that the steel riser does degrade..!

Nice to see you back on RSH development and innovation, ppotty1. Always enjoy your vids thanks for sharing, Cheers mate!

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

+Fins&Racks Outdoors thanks mate

I have a suggestion for you about the riser tube. Use 718 Inconel metal tube. This is the king of heat resistant material that will always stay shiny and new. Also. what is the chance of you having a prints for making the stove Sir ???? Thanks V

Hi there, I have been busy viewing various designs in preparation to building my own stove and am impressed with the thought you have put into yours! I have also been thinking along the lines of a hand cast pumice or manufactured ceramic riser so am finding your video very interesting. The design I have in mind would include an insulated firebox housed in steel (maybe tubular but not sure yet)vortex, secondary preheated air as per your design but on a smaller scale. I was considering buying a section of Isokern pumice liner but not sure how it would handle heat over time... I have also sourced a ceramic flue it can handle temps up to 1600c so would be good with a ceramic fibre wrapped round with stainless sleeve over to form riser. In my case I have a very well insulated room so am looking to make a much smaller stove to burn small sticks etc. I am also considering a thermo syphon tubular stainless water jacket hung like a mantel over the riser reaching a third of the way down with a removable stainless skirt sealing round water jacket and firebox/riser base. This will reduce excess heat into the room allowing it to be pumped via heat store (DHW cylinder) to other rooms in the house. I was wondering if you could advise on minimum diameter of riser and ratio to fire box and air inlets etc. ? The ceramic tube I was looking at is only 80mm internally with a 10mm wall. Do you think this would be large enough for a 6" square fire box? Cheers, Ewan from Scotland

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Ewan Bush Hi Ewan, your 80mm riser would i think work ok with a 6 inch square firebox but if it could not cope you could always add more insulation to the inside sides of the firebox to reduce the size probably wouldnt need much. Just keep the air intake into the firebox the same size as the riser or go bigger if you wanted. If you had room in the exchanger you could fit 2 risers side by side giving you over 6 inch which would give you the same as this build, manipulate the riser entrance to feed both risers...just a thought. cheers.

@ewanbush7488

9 жыл бұрын

***** Thanks for your thoughts. I imagine if the air intake is to large in comparison to the riser diameter you can get smoke blowing back the same as badly designed open fires can do or maybe this isn't a problem? The main thing is to ensure draw and sizing of flue is sufficient to pull smoke away when top loading fire I suppose. One other question regain your stove does inlet air pass through ash pan and up through grate or is this area closed off to force all incoming air up and over down into firebox? Cheers

Looking forward to the reveal!!

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

kbbacon Cheers Kev.

I based my cast form from your design, though working from my shotty memory led me to glaze over a few of the details. So now I have drying a 3" cast thickness, the kick/throw has a 3" diameter swing, and I centered the burn tunnel on the riser instead of making it eccentric like yours. I hope it performs just as good though. I'll find out in a day or two I suppose. Thanks for sharing your ideas!

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

+Michael J Thanks Micheal, it should work ok mate maybe the vortex wont be as tight but the riser will still do the job.

@MichaelJeffers75

9 жыл бұрын

+ppotty1 imgur.com/7qmiWdo Here's my specs. My riser still needs to be raised a few inches, but other than that it works ok. Not as aggressive of a swirls as I'd like, but hopefully this is increased when I add some material to the top.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

+Michael J looks really good, should get a nice easy burn and plenty of heat out

Would you know if reinforcing the refectory would increase the life expectancy and keep the casting more firmly attached to the metal tube ??? How much perlite did you add percentage wise Loz ??? Sometimes a little to much tap tap can cause an issue fella. Nicely done too.

@LozHarrop

3 жыл бұрын

be better to cast the riser in 3 sections all the same size, so easy to replace one if its damaged not sure on reinforcing. perlite was a third by volume.

@victoryfirst2878

3 жыл бұрын

@@LozHarrop Thank you for the specific information I asked for and received too. Vic

Great

Any reason why fiberglass shards/ strands were not mixed into the cast mix? It would have given the casting more structural integrity and resilience to cracking or fracturing. A helical steal coarse mesh could possibly work too, but probably requiring more effort at casting time. Great effort, and thanks for the series of videos showing the build.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Super Argo Hi and thanks, This was the first time I mixed and cast refractory and from what I had read I didn't think any strands or reinforcing would be needed, had it failed that was my plan but as luck would have it there was no problems and it still remains as good as when I cast it. Will have an update soon..cheers.

@superargo4701

8 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the update.

Basic theoretical question, why is a Vortex desirable ?

@LozHarrop

4 жыл бұрын

holds the gasses and heat in the riser longer leading to a more complete burn

Hello again, Santa bought me the 'Wisner' Rocket stove book so I've been busy "studying". I have also been reading the Peter van den Berg postings and notice that the opening between his burn tunnel and heat riser is much narrower than yours presumably to increase the air speed. Have you experimented with narrower 'slots' ?

So how about using an old acetyline gas bottle as a riser to replace the one heating your workshop stove. I'm using an old extingusher bottle CO2 powder one as a riser it's 5mm thick

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

ftrikerfox Hi I guess you can use one trouble is all non stainless type steels seem to fail after a time, which is ok as long as you make the stove modular so you can replace it easily.

Casting the whole riser… neat. I look forward to seeing how that pans out. I've been mulling over casting the firebox and transition into the riser but assumed I'd be going into a stainless steel riser as usual. Your findings of the SS degradation is interesting. For the firebox casting I was wondering about carving it out of a block of polystyrene with a hot wire cutter so I'd get smooth sides and introduce the vortex with a rotation of the chamber. Fancy, I know. ;) The plug would simply be burned out afterwards. You mentioned briefly about not using a tank this time? Do you mean not using the gas cylinder? If so, what are you thinking of? Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy your videos for being wonderfully practical.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Marcel Lenormand Hi Marcel, and thank you..Please mate just go ahead and build it because if you follow what others are doing and only do that you wont break new ground or learn anything IMO. Before Dale mentioned a vortex in a rocket stove no one had made one. the rocket stove Is such a simple superb way of producing heat and some might say not rocket science. I see guys getting tied up now with advanced theories on vortex paths and quantum maths inside the transition void..!!! People like to talk and people like to do. you will only ever extract a given amount of heat from the fuel you are burning, and to go beyond that I have no interest. Some will take it to the extreme I am sure, and if they achieve perfection all well and good. I am happy to plod on and work through my projects testing as I go. I really have had no time at all this last year to work on my ideas and this casting is the first step in a long ish road maybe, i like it that way. I will be building the body to disperse the heat much faster than a bottle, I have other ideas which I will share in the video as we go. Cheers.

@etownandrewg

6 жыл бұрын

Good idea about making a plug out of polystyrene.

Hey Ppotty1! What a great project :) So, how did the refracturate hold up? Did it crack or is it still going? :) Greetings from Finland!

@LozHarrop

5 жыл бұрын

still going strong but i actually cracked it by taking the thing apart for a clean, forgot it was strapped at the bottom and tipping it onto a sack truck to take outside probably caused the damage

I kind of understand why you used the perlite but how do you think it would work without the perlite? would the casting be stronger? would it not be as insulated resulting in poor burn? just wondering if it is really needed. Thanks

@LozHarrop

8 жыл бұрын

+Den F. It would take longer to get hot Dan without the perlite a really dense casting sucks in the heat, how much longer i dont really know. I think to get the casting glowing red would take probably twice as long. But in answer no perlite is not really needed, i added it to speed up the heating process and yes the casting would be stronger without perlite. Cheers.

Hi PP, thank you so much for sharing this. This is almost exactly how I am planning to make my rocket stove (cast clay and stuff). Mine has to be really small though, I'm talking 3" feeder and burn chamber (about 5"-8" long), the riser will be about 21" tall made of clay and vermiculite or perlite (can't remember what I've bought now). Does the inside diameter of the riser have to be slightly bigger than the burn chamber? I can maybe make it 3.5" or 4" but my outside "barrel" is a 9" diameter 5mil steel tube 22" high so not a great deal of room for manoeuvre. This will be my prototype to make sure it works and I have the dimensions right and can get the right draw. I'll be using steel food tins for my sacrificial linings and kitty litter clay for the cast. What do you think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Poo

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

poosmate Hi there, the riser can be the same size or larger but I wouldnt go smaller than the burn tunnel in my experience. I know alot of people use cat litter for casting risers but I have no experience with it sorry. Cheers

@poosmate

9 жыл бұрын

Thanks for getting back to me. I'm not in a position to start my project now but am always on the lookout for suitable "ingredients". I think I'll stick to my original plan for now. If it works I'll probably make the next out of more substantial steel tube for the riser. If that works then I can explain exactly how to get the steel tubes really cheap (hopefully - I got my first one free). Luckily a guy offered to weld a steel plate on one end of my tube and did it for free. Unfortunately I haven't seen him around for a while. This project really excites me, I can't wait to start - should be some time this year! Thanks again, Poo

We are now in May, 2017. Has the cast riser stood up to the use and abuse?

Is this a normal cement? Will it not crack with heat?

Looks great mate..

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Jason Bentley Cheers mate.

Awesome work mate! And great videos too!!

@LozHarrop

7 жыл бұрын

Cheers

Those 'vortex' are accelerators, after you must make bladies as A.V.E.C. vortex to concentrate (explode). You see some for cleaning water, they so get accelerator and just after an inner and outer screw; Anyway I suppose with such temp. its ever efficient. Have fun.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

fred san Hi fred the method i use is simply to mix in secondary air and to hold the gasses in the riser slightly longer, I dont need the gasses to spiral all the way up the riser as all the combustion occurs in the bottom third of the riser. anything inside the riser restricts the flow in my opinion, i have tried it and gained nothing from it. Cheers for the suggestion though.

@fred-san

9 жыл бұрын

Hello. Ok I do a pekka leskela cooking for van with air entry up fire chamber, I try something like that so, and will add a vortex AVEC but stair up, in tthe chimney. I did several for motor engines, they must be well done and 1/3 center hole, and 2/3 diameter blades, and mostly have to try each time several number of blades to find the right one, unless of course gained is not obvious, or less power if bad done. To try I do them in aluminium or thin steel in air entry motor (or exit exhaust), the final one in steel less thin to resist Temp° & pressure. For stoves I only tested a big can 5L with plenty vortex, wanted to show it runs, a bad video on my channel show a few, not test but differents parts. I never finihshed it unfortunetly.... but it rans with just 2-3 vortex fire between 1 to 1.5m hight (which is not bad for a can). So have to...test test test ... before find good one for stove chimney. Notice : in car , vortex exhaust run after 70km/h (such temp and pressure), so its not sure to see difference at begining of fire, and maybe have to wait very hot stove.... (on 5L can, outside wind made the difference quickly). Air entry from outside ? Thank's for showing mix perlite, i have to do one too. Cheers.

if you ever cast again, scrap the perlite. get your hands on a load of storage heater bricks, find them for £1 each on ebay, Crush these bricks up with a mash hammer, then with refractory cement, and fireclay do a mix of 3 to 1 that's 3 of heater brick dust/grogg and 1 of refractory cement, then mix into this dry mix by hand another 10% of your overall dry mix weight of fireclay. so if your dry mix is 10kg you want 1kg fireclay. the next bit is the worst bit, massage the fireclay into this dry mix until the fireclay has massaged into this mix and disappeared completely. it will resemble cookie dough, but too dry to cast at this point. now add water with a spray bottle and mix until you can squeeze a handfull and it doesnt fall apart too easily when you press this lump with your thumb, if it crumbles too easily its still way to dry. Trust me the fireclay makes a huge difference to how it holds. You could add fireclay to whats mixed and shown in above video and that would sort the crumbling caused by dryness of perlite, but if it were me, scrap the perlite and use crushed storage heater brick grogg.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

honi9 thank you for the info mate.

@honi9

9 жыл бұрын

subscribed my friend, all good stuff. I build steel pizza ovens with stone. I cast my own stones to fit each bespoke oven build. That's how I learnt about the storage heater brickslittl practice and many builds later came up with that mix I told you about earlier. those bricks are cheap as chips, £1 each or you can find used lots of multiples cheap now and then on auction. I recently got 40x for £12. Their great bricks, very dense, it seems to be slag, dross from foundry cast into these bricks. they hold heat great and resist wear very well. deff press them in a solid frame and used a lot of pressure from a bottle jack if you ever cast pizza oven stones though, you want it compact and dense fro that purpose if you ever find yourself making any? I am looking into waste oil burners and rocket stves to add to my line of current builds, so your vids have helped a massive amount, you did all the research work for me and I think you for that.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Never really got involved in pizza oven builds mate although done a fair amount of research and work on refractory linings and floors for my gas forges but it all comes in handy somewhere down the line e'h..cheers.

@honi9

9 жыл бұрын

I noticed your emphasis is all about the heat retention of your stoves. I think your cast cylinder for the rocket stove was a great idea. Specially if you use the storage heater brick grog in your next mix. Those bricks are unreal, one brick alone must weight 6kilo or more. I struggle to carry 3 and deff couldn't do more. I was moving these out of a van and stacking them 2 at a time. They hold heat great, they cook pizzas amazingly well. ive used an oven with a stone that was purpose made for that job and cost a fortune from a pizza oven supply co. my pressed bricks work far better. I think a cast cylinder in a rocket with this grog mix would be a top move.

уважаемый подскажите состав которым обмазали трубу -компоненты ?

Good video,why not just leave the pipe in?It will adf support as the refractory heats up initially and if it burns up over time so be it.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Bill Fleming Thanks Bill, I suppose you could just leave it in but depending how much it expands when hot it might just crack the casting? main reason I took it out was so I can use it again to cast another.

Good vid... I see a lot of folks heading in this direction. Casting their heat risers. One question, are you going to pre-heat your outside air that's being injected? If not won't it reduce the combustion efficiency by lowering the combustion temps? Just pondering....LOL

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

1timby cheers, Oh yes all air will be pre heated before it enters the firebox.

@1timby

9 жыл бұрын

***** Can't wait to see this one in action....:)

What's the advantage of casting the vortex tube instead of making it out of metal?

@LozHarrop

6 жыл бұрын

Mainly the heat destroys the metal over time, i wanted a trouble free firebox and riser on this stove having seen the damage the heat does over a year or two. Still working as good as the day i first lit this no problems at all so more than worth the bit of effort.

Great job, Could you tell me a little about the refractory mix you used. Is it just clay or is it something else? I'm not sure where I can get something like that around here. ATB, Steve...

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

stevenk1965 It is a castable refractory mixture I bought ready mixed rated to 1700c from a company in the UK I will put the link in the video description above. maybe you can find a similar mix where you are. Cheers.

@stevenk1965

9 жыл бұрын

***** Thanks for the help, I checked out the link you left me and found some similar products closer to home (up state NY) Thanks again, ATB, Steve...

looking forward to the results, Is the stainless riser deteriorated, was going to use SS in my project but now having second thoughts, Cheers mate Madd Macc

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Madd Macc Hi Macc, A few people have been disturbed about the stainless issue, before i lit the fire today I had a good feel around inside. Actually the walls of the stainless are ok, they are a little buckled but perfectly fine. What seems to have happened is the welding has come apart at the bottom of the riser at the point where the secondary air feed is. Im sure if I had used SS welding wire this would not have happened so its restored my faith in the stainless. Cheers...Loz.

@yodamann5193

9 жыл бұрын

***** Thanks for the reply, as I am also an expat, ( Brit ) I am used to chimneys and fireplaces made from brick, As SS is obviously lighter, Maybe I will try with SS riser, then with firebrick riser. See the differances in tempratures as well Cheers again.

Very interesting, but why not just go with straight refractory?

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

***** Hi John, I added the perlite to act as an insulator, im not sure how it will work until I try a test burn, I didn't want the riser to be solid refractory as it will leech heat away from the inside core.

Hi potty I'm down your end at woodvale rally love to catch up some time Paul

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

paulshawp Hi Paul I was away at the time mate.

Excellent work. I want to repeat similar structure. I live in Ukraine. Tell me some mixture composition of cocrete. Thank you.

@LozHarrop

8 жыл бұрын

+Blekki Taims Hi there, this was a ready made product called high temperature refractory mixture, it is used for kiln linings etc I added perlite by 1/3 volume to make it lighter and to add insulation. hope that helps.

@blekkitaims2087

8 жыл бұрын

+ppotty1 Many thanks for the quick response. This information is very important for me. Can prompt the the name "product called " of the composition, or a link to it. What would I have been able to take the same. You have not added fiber for the reinforcement ? What thickness of the walls ? Your work is very interesting. It's been a long time. As shown riser itself during this time?

@LozHarrop

8 жыл бұрын

Blekki, the link to the supplier and product is in the description below the video, I did not add any fibres and it is quite strong anyway. this is a video after the riser has been in use for one year. kzread.info/dash/bejne/h6JslqeTZ7vWdso.html Cheers.

How about soaking the perlite in water before adding to the mix?

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Kevin Chamberlain Perlite holds alot of water and if you soaked it you might find the mix is just too wet, plus it would take a longer time to dry out, its easier to add water so the perlite is just coated and sticks together.

@kevinchamberlain7928

9 жыл бұрын

***** Thanks mate! Best I just watch silently? :)

@user-pz4of7km9u

8 жыл бұрын

+ppott

Why couldn't you make the inside pipe out of masonry chimney flu and put Soapstone on the outside of that and run more masonry flu to an existing fireplace.

can this cement be purchased ad lowes etc. How much?

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Paul Lesson No idea sorry I live in the UK.

Av you thought about mekkin and sellin these? I'd buy it.

@LozHarrop

6 жыл бұрын

Not really mate but pretty easy to make actually if you have a go,

@tomohawk5567

6 жыл бұрын

ppotty1 thanks for the reply, I'll have a go. 👍

I like your work but you're not going to last long if you keep breathing perlite dust! Get a dust mask or even better, get a respirator. You're not setting a good example on that one. Otherwise, nice work.

@LozHarrop

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks Dangus, I use a mask all the time just take it off when im doing shots for the videos the mic cant pick up speech when is on.

@GamingKeenBeaner

6 жыл бұрын

One of the concessions of showbiz I suppose! Good to hear :) I'm building a rocket heater/oven/gassifier system for our tiny home on wheels and your channel is one of the best sources of DIY experiments on this topic. Many are just theory where you actually have projects. Thanks for the videos

how did this stove hold up for you?

@LozHarrop

5 жыл бұрын

it did fantastic for a few years i ended up cracking the riser taking it out but it was still fit for purpose up to that point, still using the stove today with a new riser.

CIMENT OR MORTAR?? THNKS

@LozHarrop

7 жыл бұрын

refractory cement mix

1600 degrees is way too cool. You need 3000 to be assured. Those things get well over 2000. They've gotten one to 2900 degrees to melt stainless steel.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Morgrim X 1600 centrigrade is too cool for what exactly ? im not sure what you mean if your working in Fahrenheit 1600 C = 2912 F

@morgrimx5732

9 жыл бұрын

***** I apologize. I realized that after I replied. I had just watched the video shown just below. They were pretty adamant that the internal temperatures exceed 2000 degrees fahrenheit. Now I realize that 1600 centrigrade is plenty good for what you are doing. It's over 2900 fahrenheit. That's the temperature a blacksmith achieved to make stainless steel molten. I was especially pleased to see how you manufactured that riser. I've been looking around and can't find anything similar. It's a really great design, and you were particular to point out that you avoid over heating it. Obviously, you are very familiar with furnace design and quite handy with steel.

@morgrimx5732

9 жыл бұрын

Morgrim X By the way, I've seen other designs where fire brick is used to create a square or rectangular riser. In another video, the creator was pleased to have achieved not one cyclone inside but a double one. However, no one has stated the value of having a cyclonic effect. I think a rectangular riser may not achieve that. What, if any, is the advantage of a cyclonic or anti-cyclonic spin in the riser? Is it worth molding your own round riser to achieve that? I suspect it is.

@LozHarrop

9 жыл бұрын

Morgrim X Cheers...The cyclone effect is all about mixing the gasses for better combustion, the swirling also heats the riser more as it holds the flame inside for slightly longer taking a spiral path up rather than straight up. To spin it left or right makes no difference, not done anything with dual cyclones, i think it creates more turbulence but cancels itself out very quickly as it moves up the riser.

@rexzietsman

8 жыл бұрын

+Morgrim X I think that ppotty means degrees Celsius. 1600 is plenty. At the end of the day it is actually about the mixture of alumina and silica that will count. Steel is molten and cast in the 1600 to 1650oC range. Once you get into glass melting where you are looking at 1800oC melting temperature, then magnesite bricks are effectively your only choice.

Nn