I've been reloading and studying it as a subject for 40 years. There is so much misinformation out there it's very hard to discern what is a bunch of nonsense designed to sell you stuff that it's unreal. This guy is a "straight shooter" and everything he's said in his videos, I've tried and he 's been proven correct. Thanks so much for the info.

For field rifles .. iv taken the advice of f class shooter and use a head space comparator after I have fire formed brass I simply use the comparator and bump the shoulder back .002 so I know I have great chamber fit and still functions excellent in the action ... also in regards to neck tension iv found removing the expander ball and using a expanding mandrel with .002 neck tension has also increased my SD and ES in loads 👍great info as always ... you always have the best no non sense information for rifleman

@Madskills-hw2ox

2 жыл бұрын

Can you post a link to these mandrels. The sizer buttons are useless and I’m not ready to change all my dies to bushing dies. Thanks in advance

@yukon4545

Жыл бұрын

@@Madskills-hw2ox Search Redding. Midwayusa and others that carry Redding will have them.

@Madskills-hw2ox

Жыл бұрын

@@yukon4545 Thanks Edit Just watched a video on these mandrels 👍🏻👍🏻

Wow! Finally a very useful video, without background music or other BS

I've watched a few of your videos. Thank you for offering your years of experience in an easily understandable format! It's truly appreciated!

Thank you very much for your layman's discussion on the brass information. I truly appreciated the way you keep the dialogue clean and direct without a lot of technical info. I learned a great deal on this video.

I really love these videos. They help expand my very novice knowledge in the area of reloading rifle cartridges. A topic that I am really trying to hammer down the most accuracy I can without going down the fiscal rabbit hole. These videos are a great value to me and thank you for them!

Appreciate your detailed advice. Been reloading since the early 1980s and can always learn more!

Some of the most accurate advice I've seen on KZread.

Thank you for this video. I've been reloading for years but learn something new every time I watch your videos. Just purchased a new savage in 338 lapua so I'm trying to step my game up in brass preparation. Which is why I watched this particular video. Thanks again!

Thank you for your videos. As a shooter and reloaded for many years I am amazed at some of the facts you present (lubrication., cleaning, etc). You obviously know of what you speak. Thanks again.

SOOO glad for your wonderful explanations that even "I" can comprehend! God Bless you too!

As always when I watch your videos I have learned something. Thanking you.

Love watching this guy. I learned about reloading here. I had to watch about 100 videos and more from other channels, but this one I got the concepts down from. Thanks again Mr Blue. I dont know your name.🙂😂👋

Thank you sir, great video! Still learning and will continue to!

By far the most educational and interesting gun channel. Thanks for your videos I've watched them all!!

Wow! I just want to say thank you very much for your videos and the kind you explain the things. Please go on like this 👍 And, merry christmas from germany 🎄

Thank you for another clear, informative presentation.

Wow, your an awesome teacher, enjoyed it very much. God Bless you too:)

Thanks for doing the opposite of most who just tech spec it till you cant get the idea or feel intimidated. Im a 26 year vet and i take great pleasure in leaving my ideas back and pay close attention to what I can learn and verify and i think i came on top. Ill be better informed and more responsible owner. On this side of the border shops just tell you what you need which happens ro be what they need sold feom whats available and pay no mind to your actual needs or expectations. I now feels surrounded by pseudo experts who in fact can only handle surface level scrutiny. Knowledge is power. Airborne!

Hi Sir, thank you again for sharing your great knowledge again with us. Since I have been watching your videos I have learned many things that have helped me in hunting and at the range. With your tips I'm getting sub Moa groups with sporting barrels,I couldn't be happier! I can't wait for the next video,surely I will learn something from that too! Thanks, and God Bless! Happy new Year from Mario of Sydney Australia

indexing the round in the chamber also helps accuracy. this video just touches the basics. Thank you Sir for the video. It took me back twenty years or more. Groups with a factory 700 ADL .112 - .124 , Cal. 243, 100 yds. Speer 100gr. square base bullet. This was seven, three shot groups. I never took more than three or four rounds into the field. Most of the time just one round in the gun. Never needed more than one.

Excellent video I cannot say how pleased I am with this information is awesome thank you so much for sharing this.

You are enjoyable to watch. No other channel goes this Indep

Great Video. I’m learning a ton from you sir. Keep them coming. Thanks

Very informative. Thanks, took me 30 years to get what you described in 30 minutes.

@vdog4799

9 ай бұрын

I heard that! I'm about 5 years into learning and just now getting con cepts that I couldn't get before. Just being around it and doing it and thinking about stuff and something clicks, or I reread a reloading book and find something I missed the last time around 👍

Thank you GunBlue, truly enjoyed the video. I'm getting back into handloading after 40 years. As a kid I used to reload for .222 and 30.06 with tong type reloading tools with my father. I still have the .222 Savage 340b from the 60's and still very accurate with factory loads. Looking forward to handloading for that again. Thank you again for the great info! Looking forward to to the next video.

You are amazing. All that knowledge. Thank you!

I’ve heard this explained many times but never this well and this understandable.

So good. Thank you!

Awesome video packed with very usefull information for reloaders.

thank you very much for these very great deeply imaginable explanations

I really like your channel sir, I've found the information and advice very helpful. You are easy to listen to and follow. Thanks so much.

Excellent and very informative video. Thank you...look foward to more.

You always got great information. Thanks for sharing.

Well done video! Thank you, Sir.

I learn so much from you. Thank you. I only wished you had playlist.

Thanks for sharing. Really enjoyed this video.

Fantastic video.

Excellent video!!! Thank you. 😺

Your video are great. I have learned a lot. Thank you.

Very accurate information ,this person is someone that is tested and true.

I got a lot out of this session. I did find that some one else recommended FL sizing for hunting for the same reason you stated. I also got a better understanding of some of the mechanics/physics of sizing. thanks

@ironbunny4121

4 жыл бұрын

even the benchrest and F class shooters are full length sizing. neck sizing is a brass life and "slightly questionable" headspace solution

Enjoying your channel. Respect from Aus.

You can cut into the shoulder area, and some neck turner producing companies recommend it. The neck shoulder junction is an obvious spot where brass flow stops creating build up of brass. Doughnut’s as an example. Lots of literature on the subject as well.

I do not shoot in competitions, but I do hunt and have had numerous opportunities to shoot at long distances but am not a long distance shooter. I am interested in annealing, bullet seating, powder charges for specific bullets etc. I usually use Sierra match bullets, but have only done my reloading according to the RCBS manual. I fine your videos very informative and trustworthy. It is nice to see someone who actually knows what they are talking about.

Thank you again, Sir.

This is exactly what I needed. Unfortunately, I purchased dies already (including a full length resizing die), but what I needed was a neck resizing die for F class shooting. Thanks VERY much for de-mystifying all of the fine details that you discussed. Well done!

great video.i learned a lot about reloading today. thanks.

Very good video the more effort you put into your loading the better success you will have.

Fantastic video i enjoyed every minute of it. I can tell your a man that has an eye for accuracy just by looking at the alignment of your cabinet doors :-)

@johnphillips7736

6 жыл бұрын

Ash Gardener's of

Thanks for your rifle reloading accuracy videos. This is where I am right now, I'm learning all I can about reloading ammo as accurately as possible. I am looking forward to "how to anneal video. I am doing it, but need confidence in my method.

Very good presentation.

Excellent video, thank you for posting. My only question during the whole video was on annealing. I'm delighted that it was addressed at the end and I look forward to a video on the topic.

@GunBlue490

7 жыл бұрын

MrRoboskippy Annealing simply returns the original softness of case necks after six or so firings and resizings. I will be doing a video on it sometime in the future. Beware that over annealing, heating to orange or even red, that destroys alloys in the brass, and is very commonly seen in many KZreads. Correct annealing takes only several seconds, at the neck only.

What a great video 👍👍👍👍👍

I’ve found Lapua 6.5 CM brass to vary by up a grain. I sort them into heavy 50% and light 50%. Then the batches are within .5 grains.

Great video sir!

Excellent!

Thank you Sir 👏👏👏

Love your videos! I am just getting into the neck turning. For new and used brass steps, 1 form with FL die, 2 trim length if needed and then start the neck turn process. Am I missing anything? Thanks

Outstanding 👍

Very good info...I'd like to know when specifically resizing cases to shoot one specific rifle, and that rifle being a semi automatic as in my case, AR- 10...How does one go about checking the fired case in this type of rifle?

My last competitive bench rifle was a 30BR with a NO turn neck. Brass today has become so good (Lapua) that in score type matches neck turning has kinda become a part of history. The only guy I new that still turned necks was shooting a PPC and was a requirement for his chamber. All the other shooters in my area anyway were using 6 and 30BR's and no turn necks

@GunBlue490

5 жыл бұрын

Yes, I find that with Lapua too, but run of the mill brass can be dramatically improved by turning, and can achieve near match grade accuracy, especially in brass not available from Lapua.

I found consistency in set up using bag and bunny ears really showed my rifles accuracy potential. With this I can tell which loads are good or bad. My Mod 70, .223 I believe has a somewhat lose chamber though it shoots just under 1 moa with a particular load. I'd like to neck size only so the case has a snug fit and see what happens. I'll try sizing first because if you do two things you can't tell which one gave you the most added accuracy.

Excellent

When i shoulder bump my 22-250 case .002 - .003 in my Lee FL die the case stretch .005 - .006 thousands and always require trimming. Even without the expander ball in place the die stretches the cases excessively, so after 2 firrings they are over C.O.A.L.

I strongly appreciates this lesson on case neck turning - however neck calibration without centered case body deteriorates the neck vs. the body concentricity! I have experienced (with a 30.06 brass) eccentricity of body vs. neck of 0,16 mm (6,3 thouthends of an inch) What is your advise to prevent or mend this?

GREAT video...subbed

What type of deprimming/primiming tool block do you use in your video ? Great videos by the way

I like all thing Forester.....great little manual lathe.

Good tip to cut only the thicker side, not remove the thinnest side. When should neck turning cutting occur? Before or after annealing? Before or after full length resizing?

Excellent.

I like the idea of the Lee neck sizing but what about bumping the shoulder?

How do we now that the case neck center is on det case centerline? To achieve this we probably nede to cut the inside of the neck.

Really appreciate your knowledge and experience. Thanks for sharing that with us. Could you list the steps you use to create precision ammo (say for PRS shooting, not Benchrest) and what tools/dies you would use? In particular, I will be reloading for 6.5 Creedmoor. Have done more general reloading (plinking, target, some hunting rounds) in 9mm, .223, .204, and .308. Just confusing on the best methodology for precision loads.

@GunBlue490

6 жыл бұрын

Joseph Stanczak If you follow my entire series of videos regarding the handloading fundamentals for making reliable hunting ammo that fits your gun correctly, and you use an accurate rifle made in accordance with the explanations I provided in those two videos, you will have the best possible equipment to compete. PRS ammo is no different than any other, provided that its caliber and velocity is within the rules. Any of my regular bolt rifles could easily compete, and would be well within the rules. You certainly need not spend much money to win, and there is no concern about paying anywhere near the ceiling limits on either rifle or scope. You could do quite well with for instance, a very inexpensive but high quality Leupold VX-1 3-9x40 mounted on a quality affordable gun which comes factory glass bedded with a beautiful trigger, and you would be well under $1,100. Because your ability to spot hits and misses is critical, you want an easy recoiling rifle with a good ballistic coefficient, but enough bullet mass to leave a signature. I know you like the Creedmoor, but I would be very happy also with a 280 Remington that could be tried and tailored with an infinite combination of different bullet weights and recoil levels until you found what you like and what works best for you.

Very interesting.

Awesome FACTS !

thanks, i noticed the brits using a faster method than we use. they seat the bullets with a arbor press with a pressure gauge on top. the rounds that are not in the norm will seat with a different pressure, they set those aside for plinking or fouling shots. then they measure and trim the thickness. that weeds out the time wasted on measuring each neck when you can do it while seating the bullet. any thoughts?

@GunBlue490

6 жыл бұрын

JB The process of employing arbor presses and measurement gauges was developed by American bench rest shooters decades ago. It's worthwhile for such endeavors, but has little practical application for most midrange target shooters.

Very good video. Nice bullet points no pun intended. And it looks to me like you use starret calipers. I'll be paying much attention to your videos sir.

@ironbomb6753

3 жыл бұрын

No pun intended? Too bad, it was a good one.🤣👍

Terrific.

So I would run my new brass (Lapua) through a full length sizing die then trim to length and then turn the necks to auniform wall thickness? Many thanks

@GunBlue490

6 жыл бұрын

medhist2006 Sorry for just running into your question after so long. Lapua makes exceptionally good match grade brass, consistent in every way, and very well protected in packing. Unless it's visibly distorted from damage, it may be loaded immediately with no resizing. In my experience with it, turning is an unnecessary process that will afford little or nothing. It's already trimmed perfectly to minimum.

You said that the neck resizing tool from Lee is good as it works by press the neck. But what do you think abou the RCBS neck sizing tool with bushing ? do you have some tips for use it very well and avoid some stretching or others mistake ? Have good result with but get any tips from a good reloader like you ;) Thank you

@dafellmd

2 жыл бұрын

Matthieu: I have the RCBS Full Length sizing die with interchangeable bushings. It adjusts the outside diameter of the neck. It does an excellent job.

Randy selby would be proud of these vids

It’s been a great debate weather Full Length Resizing or Neck Resizing only is best for accuracy. I’m a fan of Neck Sizing only, BUT this completely depends on using the same gun, and keeping you brass based on batch numbers. Any variation in components or behaviour has a negative effect on your results. When using the same gun the Brass becomes “Fire Formed” to that particular Rifle. Bullet Jump is another factor. In some circumstances the overall length can be quite an advantage, some enjoy adjust OAL to just tough the Lands, as in some cases a slight jump helps. You have to test heavily to see the advantage. I used to smoke the end of a bullet, (less power) haha. In other words when I came very close to the bullet with a match or lighter, and it would leave a very this coating of smoke on the case. I would adjust my die so I could barely see contact. That Remington 243 BDL enjoyed it. Had eight rounds in under an inch at one time. Ground Hogs/Coyotes etc. Be aware of brass flowing forward each time it’s fired. You might have to Trim your cases as well. Keep track of how many times a given shells being fired. There comes a time after chamfering that the neck gets very thin. I loved loading back in the day, in the last 15years I buy my shells cause I don’t shoot much at all anymore. I miss it and listening to you brings back fond memories. It’s enjoyable to listen to someone with so much knowledge! Thank you..

Hello sir - you mention neck trimming just taking off high spot. As a precision long range guy (prs, bench) and a very anal ocd retired navy single seat fighter guy Im very (prob too) detailed. I neck turn to take off just enough to trim all way around neck. This gives me a set wall thickness that I can use to then try to set consistent neck tension. I always stay above shoulder. In your opinion is this acceptable from a safety standpoint? Example for 6.5 Creedmoor w Lapua brass I trim to .0135 wall thickness.

@GunBlue490

3 жыл бұрын

I explained that the high spot can extend mostly around the neck, but should stop short of going the entire circumference in order to preserve minimum safe thickness. Lapua brass is exceptionally uniform and requires little if any turning to produce zero runout. Remember that slop in the neck region produces the same problem as runout, which is why benchrest precision shooters match their brass thickness to have minimum bullet release clearance. You should trim minimally. Unless your clearance is less than .001" and you know exactly what it is, you should not trim more than that required to center your bullet, especially with a factory non-match chamber with standard tolerance. Neck tension will always be quite consistent--and very acceptable--within a box of ammo, even with un-turned factory fodder, because it's a relative tension that's the same within a given lot. Trimming too much can lead to insufficient tension, which is certainly undesirable.

Hi GunBlue, first off I'd just like to say that my brother and I love your channel! I was wondering if you're familiar with the S & W 686 plus, and if it would be possible to make a breakdown/cleaning video for it. Again, for all the time you've put into your current videos (especially the 1911 ones) thank you so much!

@gunwrites6222

7 жыл бұрын

He has made a fine video on cleaning revolvers. The 686 Plus/Combat Masterpiece? I've owned a stainless 686+/6" for 20+ years. It is my most cherished revolver and I own many. I also own its little brother, a stainless 617/6"-10 shot. Fine fine Smiths. Right up there with my Colt 1911, they'll all be with me until they become heirlooms.

Informative as usual. When a factory loads a projectile into the case neck, does that then make the ID of the case neck concentric? And then, once fired and neck turned, is concentric on the OD and the ID? If so, does annealing change this at all?

@GunBlue490

6 жыл бұрын

Fenton Painter No. Case necks of most commercial brass is unevenly thick around its circumference, which places the center of the ID off kilter with the OD. What makes matters worse, the uneven thickness can also be along its length, which tilts the bullet along its axis. Fireforming stretches the brass to fit the precise size of the chamber, but cannot remedy the thickness variations, which will remain until the outside neck turning process. A long cylindrical centering pilot of exact bullet diameter is inserted into the neck, and the carbide cutter is advanced to shave only the thick brass, so that it's equal to the thin side, and no more, for a standard commercial chamber. For a custom benchrest chamber with a minimum neck clearance, the brass is cut to the required release clearance. It's only done once in the life of the brass. Annealing is a softening process that has no bearing on brass dimensions, and may be done multiple times.

will neck turning affect all calibers positively? So going from 6.5CM, 338LM that i do turn up to 375 Cheytac and 416 Barrett. How much of improvement should i see if already at 1MOA and 10 SD's ES 20.

@GunBlue490

5 жыл бұрын

Bullet to bore concentricity is always helpful to accuracy. The degree of improvement is directly proportional to the amount of the initial combined misalignment of the case neck and the throat clearance of a chamber. It's an alignment issue that has absolutely nothing to do with caliber or load consistency, any more than wheel alignment relates to engine performance in a car. A bullet that is pointing where the barrel is pointing will benefit any cartridge or load.

If your are using a neck sizing busing, how do you accommodate for variations in neck thickness?

@GunBlue490

5 жыл бұрын

With a Lee collet, the inside mandrel controls the inside dimension as the outer collet simply squeezes it, regardless of thickness. For non adjustable bushings used by benchrest shooters, the thickness is governed by the outside neck cutter.

Is the .223 brass from Lake City pretty uniform in weight~? Or should I be be looking to buy Lapua~??

@GunBlue490

3 жыл бұрын

Lake City brass is good quality for military use, but is not made for the purpose of achieving critical uniformity for target use. If you desire case to case uniformity, seek a brand made for such use. Lapua is certainly one of the best in that regard.

Wildcatter and rifle smith Albert "Hopp" hauptmann: Neck tension about maintaining bullet jump and also locating the initial pressure curve. A lot of neck tension. 003-.005 or more tends to build pressure quicker than light tension with certain powders. The 6PPC with H322 seems to like little to no neck tension but N140 likes. 003 or more. Things change when jumping the bullet, with certain powders and a long throat, excess neck tensions builds a. Pressure spike before the bullets starts moving and can sometimes lead to poor accuracy. One theory is since the bullet is swaged into the rifling at a higher rate that the bullet may skid somewhat before it starts to track the grooves, causing deformation and poor accuracy. But that same load may shoot fine in another rifle of the same twist chamber and length. Rifles are like women, they all have their quirks and don't like to tell you what's wrong.

@GunBlue490

5 жыл бұрын

Some of the silliest yarns come from such "pros", who conjure up fascinating theories to fill monthly magazine collums and look astounding. He's all wet. Soaking wet. Neck tension cannot be measured with a micrometer. Every bullet loaded in the world is seated into a case neck inside diameter that is exactly .001" smaller, governed by the expanding ball, mandrel, or bench rest die. Any less, and the bullet will be loose; any greater and the bullet will collapse the case. Tension is solely related to the elasticity of the brass, the amount of neck to bullet bearing surface, and to the presence or degree of a crimp. Pressure spikes are caused by untrimmed case necks that jam a bullet, and by incorrect powders and charge densities. Bullet jump and neck tension have absolutely nothing to do with the other. The former is the distance from the rifling leade; the latter is the exertion of force bearing on the bullet by the case neck. Further, nobody can possibly achieve bullet jump consistency to the third decimal place, which is why most bench shooters seat their bullets into the rifling. Anyone who claims they can is full of it. In any precisely loaded lot of ammo, bullet jump can and will vary by as much as +-.003" or more for a host of reasons. I've used H322 powder for many years in my 222 Remington and my buddy's 204 Ruger, and because if it's quickness, like IMR4198, it's one of the least fussy powders in the world that works uniformly well under a wide range of bullet jump for those cartridges, but it's certainly not an efficient powder in the 6mm PPC, where it is far too quick for any bullet weights for standard velocities, and will get out of hand with high pressures very easily if standard velocities are attempted. That's not a pressure spike; it's just an overload. A 65 grain bullet in the 6mm PPC runs at a comfortable 3,000 feet per second, but hits a wall at 2,800 feet per second with H322, which is hardly the velocity loss bench shooters want to minimize wind issues, so any talk of that powder in that round leaves me questioning. In my long 55 years of shooting experience, barrel harmonics drives what powders and charges work best, but guns are not quirky individuals at all, and they react very predictably, and respond quite uniformly. Every rifle I've ever tested and loaded for, whether my own, a friend's, or a department sniper rifle, shot it's best with the seating die set in the neighborhood of.015" jump or crammed to the lands. Finding a good load is pretty simple, yet there are many who fancy themselves to have secret knowledge and wisdom, so they can look down on the world. I'm doing this series to unmask the nonsense so everyone can do it. There are no secrets that any gurus like Hopp make things out to be.

@jenpsakiscousin4589

5 жыл бұрын

Yeah you hear some wild things over the years. I used to talk to old man hopp when I started out with the PPC and had problems with tuning it. He was a good builder tho. I still have an old Gew 98 cut for a. 222 Ackley that is a shooter, instead of a sleeve the magazine cutout was welded up. Anyway, I find learning half the fun and realized that many of the old timers had different ways to go about the same thing. There was even a guy that used no neck tension at all. Somehow he formed a doughnut as he called it that the bullet would hit to prevent it from moving into the case. I try to stick with more fundamental techniques. I never understood the ideas he had on neck tension and pressure but 25 years later, I heard the same theory about the bullet "skidding" the first little bit once it hits the bore. At camp perry a few years ago I got to talk to Joe Carlos, former Army Armorer and smith for the army reserve team, who brought up the same idea that under certain circumstances the bullet can skid when it first engages the rifling. I don't know how valid the theory is since it's just a theory but I've since heard the same idea from some of the guys who are shooting gain twist barrels. My service rifle shoots just fine and when I miss the 10 ring it's because I put it there and not the rifle or the load. Yeah defiantly hear some wild stuff over the years tho, I do enjoy your videos. Good day and good shooting.

Thanks, again! I am impressed by the fact that you take so much time in answering questions. I read below that you do not recommend neck sizing for game loads. Why is that?

@GunBlue490

7 жыл бұрын

J. Mann Most, not all, neck sized cases fit snuggly, as they should, into the chamber. Besides the required effort that seating such loads into a chamber can slow down or hinder proper cycling, there is a very real risk that a load cannot be chambered fully at all, as there is no room for even the slightest debris whatsoever. Field hunting involves debris. Neck sizing affords a limited degree of additional accuracy that no imaginable game situation could possibly benefit from. In addition, prudence dictates that every advantage be accorded the hunter, which means the best and most failsafe possible ammunition, including virgin brass. Never confuse benchrest methods, which employ countless little nuances for the sake of reducing groups by decimal points, with the high stakes of hunting big game, that rquires reliability, function, and speed. Any standard load that has been conventionally sized can shoot fine game loads that will take any deer within 400 yards. Deer are not killed deader by ammo that shoots sub MOA.

Do this test with the LEE Collet Sizing Die. Take one of your new unfired cases and one that's chamber formed. If you can get an accurate measurement of the neck thickness in different places record them. Run each case through the LEE Collet die and remeasure all around the neck again. You will find that the die has completely uniformed the neck wall all the way around! No shaving required and no secondary tiny bottlenecks. Trimming is still required as required. Tell me if I'm wrong because I have machinist's tubing wall thickness Vernier micrometers in standard and metric and both tell me the die actually swages the neck brass to a uniform thickness just like a collet is designed to.

@buddybbuddyb3687

3 жыл бұрын

I have shot groups with the Lee Collet die as good as the Redding Competition bushings dies at 200 yards with my 22-250 hundreds of times.

@aubreysteele4466

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for this info. I started using the Lee Collet dies for some of my rifles a couple of years ago and wondered if the swaging was not occurring to get concentricity. I've debated with myself about purchasing one of the tubing micrometers to see about this and if it was, I just wasted $ on something I didn't need and never would. Thanks, again.

@14goldmedals

3 жыл бұрын

Aubrey Steele you’re welcome. Annealing is still a good idea at some point although I’ve fired .308 Win brass 10x without annealing then tossed them.

@neonjoe6180

2 жыл бұрын

I love my Lee collet resizer,I have a Schilen 24'' select match chrome moly vanadium barrel with a .246 neck that shoot sub 1/4 MOA all day long.

Thank you so much for your videos. My question regards powders. A friend gave me some IMR 3031 to use in my 308. It has small long rods which break in my powder thrower. Varget powder does not seem to noticeably break when I throw it. Should I use this powder in my RCBS thrower, or is it not a concern. Thanks again for your help and I look forward to your video on annealing.

@GunBlue490

7 жыл бұрын

Wayne Bridges IMR-3031 powder is an extruded single base rifle powder that is useful in a broad range of cartridges, and has a moderately fast burning rate that is faster than Varget. It develops medium velocities in the 308 when used with bullets heavier than 180 grains, and gives best velocity with 110 through 130 grain bullets. I ask you to watch my video "Sporter rifle accuracy - Part II the Ammo", where I elaborate on the advantages of single base powders, which includes IMR-3031 and Varget. Burning rates are primarily controlled by shape and size of the granules, just as small logs burn faster than larger ones. Extruded powders are manufactured not unlike miniature macaroni of varied diameters and lengths that have notable differences in the way they meter through powder measures, which is fairly smooth with some, and less so with others. Much has been made of the cutting of extruded powders, which is not the issue that it is perceived to be. The number of granules cut in a column of powder in a measure is very few, perhaps less than three or four, and has no practical effect on the total charge volume. All factory loads are measured by volume. I have checked the weights of measured charges with various coarse extruded powders, and have observed variations of no more than two tenths of a grain above or below the intended weight in my 40 year old RCBS Uniflow measure, in worse case examples, where an extreme bump is felt, and less than one tenth extreme variation with charges that pass with moderate resistance. As mentioned in my video, extruded powders behave with exceptionally uniform results on target, and are not sensitive to far greater variations than any measured charge would drop. It is not a concern, in other words. To increase the uniformity of charges, always follow these procedures: Never charge loads that are within 1 percent of maximum, but bring such charges up with a trickler when needed. Maintain at least a quarter of the hopper filled, when using coarse powders, which keeps a consistent pressure. Use the largest drop funnel that your case neck accommodates. Set your handle to fill on the up stroke, and empty on the down stroke, and finish on the up stroke. Develop a rythm, and always lift and drop firmly with a uniform military cadence, and loud clack; ONE-TWO! Return heavily obstructed charges back to the hopper. Have a flashlight on the bench and visually inspect the entire loading block to assure that each case is uniformly filled. Though it takes another movement, I greatly prefer to place each case under the drop tube manualin, returning it to the block, rather than charging down the block. It gives more room to work the handle confidently, and avoids bumping and upsetting charges in the block. I have used and prefer extruded powders for most of my rifle loads, despite the slight aggravation of coarse handling. However, some extruded powders meter nearly as smoothly as ball powders.

@GunBlue490

7 жыл бұрын

Wayne Bridges IMR-3031 powder is an extruded single base rifle powder that is useful in a broad range of cartridges, and has a moderately fast burning rate that is faster than Varget. It develops medium velocities in the 308 when used with bullets heavier than 180 grains, and gives best velocity with 110 through 130 grain bullets. I ask you to watch my video "Sporter rifle accuracy - Part II the Ammo", where I elaborate on the advantages of single base powders, which includes IMR-3031 and Varget. Burning rates are primarily controlled by shape and size of the granules, just as small logs burn faster than larger ones. Extruded powders are manufactured not unlike miniature macaroni of varied diameters and lengths that have notable differences in the way they meter through powder measures, which is fairly smooth with some, and less so with others. Much has been made of the cutting of extruded powders, which is not the issue that it is perceived to be. The number of granules cut in a column of powder in a measure is very few, perhaps less than three or four, and has no practical effect on the total charge volume. All factory loads are measured by volume. I have checked the weights of measured charges with various coarse extruded powders, and have observed variations of no more than two tenths of a grain above or below the intended weight in my 40 year old RCBS Uniflow measure, in worse case examples, where an extreme bump is felt, and less than one tenth extreme variation with charges that pass with moderate resistance. As mentioned in my video, extruded powders behave with exceptionally uniform results on target, and are not sensitive to far greater variations than any measured charge would drop. It is not a concern, in other words. To increase the uniformity of charges, always follow these procedures: Never charge loads that are within 1 percent of maximum, but bring such charges up with a trickler when needed. Maintain at least a quarter of the hopper filled, when using coarse powders, which keeps a consistent pressure. Use the largest drop funnel that your case neck accommodates. Set your handle to fill on the up stroke, and empty on the down stroke, and finish on the up stroke. Develop a rythm, and always lift and drop firmly with a uniform military cadence, and loud clack; ONE-TWO! Return heavily obstructed charges back to the hopper. Have a flashlight on the bench and visually inspect the entire loading block to assure that each case is uniformly filled. Though it takes another movement, I greatly prefer to place each case under the drop tube manualin, returning it to the block, rather than charging down the block. It gives more room to work the handle confidently, and avoids bumping and upsetting charges in the block. I have used and prefer extruded powders for most of my rifle loads, despite the slight aggravation of coarse handling. However, some extruded powders meter nearly as smoothly as ball powders.

This is the sort of thing I've been looking for. And what I was hoping you got into in your reloading videos, as I've been reloading for quite some time. My question is, why neck turn your brass, if you fire form and neck size only when you reload? If you fire form your brass, you're forming your case to that specific chamber. How would you have high spots if it's formed to your chamber? I went back and rewatched the part where you talked about neck turning. And from what I understand is you're trying to achieve concentricity. And that's where I'm confused. If you fire form, and neck size only, aren't you concentric at that point? Or are you trying to get even tighter tolerances? I've never messed with neck turning. But with certain rifles I own, I do neck size only. Mainly my varmint guns. I'm just trying to put this all together. Thanks

@kennethgarrison521

5 жыл бұрын

If the neck is thicker on a side, then the 2 circles which are the neck OD (outer diameter) and the neck ID (inner diameter) are by definition not concentric. When the charge is fired the neck OD comes into full and concentric contact with the chamber, but the neck ID (and the bullet) are offset with the centerline of the bore by the neck wall thickness differential. After firing the run out as measured by the OD of course would be essentially zero, but ID where the bullet left from would be off center. When turning necks a mandrel centers the ID and this makes the OD out of round and pushes the high side (thick side) out to the cutting bit. With uniform neck walls everything is concentric and the bullet sits and leaves from the centerline of the bore. At least it has a chance to; assuming proper function of sizing and seating does, quality components, etc.

NRA highpower with the 223. I have collected a large variety of brass over the years, LC,Win,Starline,Norma,hornady and recently been shooting the Jagmann, which I think is great brass. I came to highpower from benchrest and am used to neck turning. All my necks are. 0015 so I can leave the same bushing in the die. I sort my brass by brand but use all the lots with the same load and prep. Uniform neck tension is the key in a semi auto and cut vertical group spreads in half at the 600 yard line and about the same at the 300. It's a pain to neck turn 500 pcs of brass but I have a lathe and a good setup and can do 50 in about 15 min. Don't go crazy with it especially with the lake city brass as some get as thin as. 009 in spots. Remember after few times of bumping the shoulder and trimming the neck will either have to be touched up with the turning tool or you have to decrease the amount of depth in the bushing. Feel free to experiment and have fun. BTW I don't use QL nor do I use a chrony. Never have, I load for group size. Younger shooters these days like to see the data in numerical form, I'm just fine seeing the data on the target and just ballpark the velocity.

I use mixed brass with .223 reloads and can get 1/2 moa with my one AR.

GunBlue490 Awesome information for us reloaders whom are ready for the next level of accuracy. I am currently reforming 308 Brass to 260 Remington. My question is should i doing the neck turning on the brass prior to reforming or after reforming the brass to 260?

@GunBlue490

5 жыл бұрын

Reform first. You are going down three calibers, (284, 277 to 264), so I would first resize. That will cause a buildup of brass at the inside of the shoulder, so you must follow the sizing with inside neck reaming with a 264 reamer to remove that thick donut, or your bullet or neck turning pilot may not be accepted, and the neck will not be parallel. Then, do your neck turning.

@uspatriot7777

5 жыл бұрын

@@GunBlue490 thank you and appreciate your very informative videos and topic of reloading. Keep up the great work!

I get excellent accuracy using IMR 3031. I don't bother with weighing brass, 1/10 grain of brass takes up such small capacity while 1/10 of powder takes up much more space so it's not a 1:1 ratio by any means. Besides where is the extra weight in the casing, the head, wall thickness or oal ?? Once processed using different brass I can't tell any variation. Powder and bullet quality are the two most factors in accuracy that I've seen.

just a question if I may: What would be the minimum clearance between a loaded round case neck and the chamber neck? THis rifle(savage 112v in 22-250) is strictly for bench shooting. Fantastic video. I will watch it often. Keep up the wonderful work.:)

@GunBlue490

6 жыл бұрын

medhist2006 Again, sorry for the long delay. There is no requirement to trim until brass reaches the specified maximum listed in all handloading material. Chambers are cut with the clearance to prevent case neck contact. It is customary to trim ten thousandths back from maximum, which is a very small amount. I have seen much made of this issue over the last few years, but I have done some experimenting, using known accurate loads, using cases that were not trimmed uniformly, and found no difference whatsoever, so long as they were within the minimum to maximum specified. I once accidentally cut a couple of cases of my 222 Remington a full 1/16 inch too short, and almost chucked them. I decided to shoot them anyway, and they shot into the same group as the rest. It's not recommended practice, but varied case lengths within .010" are not the problem many folks imagine. A ring of brass .010" long exerts no tension on a bullet whatsoever that affects pressures of such magnitude.

Hi, thanks for the video. I am new to reloading and use .308 Lee classic kit. I use brass from previously purchased factory ammo. While seating bullet into different brands of brass, I noted that force required to do so is different (stronger and more frequent mallet strikes may be required). After watching this video, it is my understanding that brass wall thickness in the neck must be different. Is there any danger associated with more tight bullet seating? I suspect it can cause higher pressures and will most likely affect velocity/accuracy. I newer exceed recommended amount of powder and stay within Min - Max OAL.

@GunBlue490

7 жыл бұрын

Oleksandr Ananiev There is never any danger with tight neck tension. The most snug brass is is no match for 55,000 psi of pressure. Even heavily crimped bullets with tight brass can be withdrawn with less than 50 pounds of force with pliers. The only danger is overly long brass that jams at the chamber end lengthwise, and causes a clamping action that cannot release. Do not mix brass with the same loads, as they will have varying pressires and often very different points of impact. Work up loads with different brands separately, and record the results for later reference.

@oleksandrananiev1767

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you, I will follow your advice

@CrimeVid

7 жыл бұрын

GunBlue490 a