Nagasaki is a ferocious crimp benchmark with the hardest moves right off the ground. A measure of undulating effort on sharp edges stay with you until the rest about two-thirds of the way up. From here, it's tricky and sequential movement until the magnificent bastard of an end where you're literally staring at the chains move after move after move until you finally find a clipping stance and the taste of victory.

Anything goes when it comes to holds, they go crimpin' ain't easy, crimpin' ain't easy.

I got on this fall. Those first half crimps are no joke - i fucking LOVED them. I spent all my energy figuring out how I wanted the finishing sequence to go and end up basically doing the same way you do. That hold out right from the anchors is a somewhat hidden godsend. Nice send. Hope you got to get on the 10ish route to the left that goes out cool jugs at the start before finishing up the face. I don't remember the name. Cheers!

@arduouspaths

Жыл бұрын

hmm the route to the left isn't that a dihedral? That's a 5.8. Farther left I think is a 10d called Tic Tac Toe that my good friend did but he said it was the hardest 10d ever so I didn't even try hahaha. The hold out right from the anchors is definitely the clipping hold and it makes the climb so diabolic that you are literally at clipping height for like 4 more moves. I love it. Hope to see you out there this season!

Went on this today and onsighted it really cool climb. I didn’t know where was the last jug to the right of the anchor so clipped it from the final crimps on the left

@arduouspaths

Ай бұрын

if you can onsight this your crimp game is clearly strong enough to clip the chains from the left but I will say going all the way right is pretty full value. Fun moves!

@benoitcerrina

Ай бұрын

@@arduouspaths it was. I just didn’t know where the jug on the right was or even if there was any until after I was clipped. From the left I reached up where I expected a good hold and didn’t find anything which is why I clipped from there. Once clipped and before lowering I noticed the chalked up jug.

Great rests Woah!! So brave at the top! You’ll have to teach me that confidence soon.

@arduouspaths

2 жыл бұрын

can't wait to climb with you

I love the part where you said

@arduouspaths

2 жыл бұрын

I don't recognize that from the lyrics...

Was this and Bandwagon recent?

@arduouspaths

2 жыл бұрын

bandwagon this past saturday and nagasaki this past sunday. Perfect conditions!

@arduouspaths

2 жыл бұрын

I just realized you've posted on my Target Practice video before. Thanks for watching my silly uploads all this time!

@TheDiabolicalDoogle

2 жыл бұрын

@@arduouspaths it’s always fun to see videos from the local spot. I enjoy the videos!

@arduouspaths

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheDiabolicalDoogle it's wild how many absolute gems there are here, all the way down to 5.8 😍