I love the fact that @ROBRENZ is such a down to earth, humble guy, yet the community has such a huge respect for him. It's a real privilege to live in a time where all this information is so freely put out there for anyone who wants to learn.

@frigzy3748

24 күн бұрын

Exactly my thoughts.

@VoidedWarranty

24 күн бұрын

a god that lives among us

@vinh7251

21 күн бұрын

I'm of the opinion that respect (beyond a level of basic decency) should never be given, always earned and ROBRENZ has if anything, overpaid his dues. Like James said, if Robyn speaks you are well advised to listen, that advice has been hard earned, is being offered to you for free and only a fool rejects a deal that good. If you have an interest in machining with precision then I've yet to find a channel that comes even close to the gold that you'll find there.

@MikeGillett58

21 күн бұрын

OXTOOLCO is what I have known him as, I love his stuff, as well as greatly appreciate anything he shares with the community.

In the finest tradition of the internet, I will hold onto the memory of this audio forever. 😂

@mattw7949

21 күн бұрын

My disappointment is immeasurable and my day is ruined. :D

@fastindy

19 күн бұрын

This must be a reference to something in the video, but I couldn't make it past the first 43 seconds to find out.

@Verminator151029

6 күн бұрын

​@@fastindyYes, Brevity is often the key that is lost on the vast majority of Yappers!!

I ran a large NC grinder for years. It had only one mpg and the selector like you have. I had no problems with that and did some very weird setups. What I would recommend is putting a pot on your panel to control table speed. That way you can really ease into things slowly and cut it back fast without having to worry about a fake button. A physical control over table speed is really something you want because you will be looking at the part and not the screen. For touch offs just get some really thin motor winding paper. The stuff I used was about .0003” thick. Great for shimming out of flat parts and fixing squareness. For the record, I machined and built air bearings. Much grinding. Much precision.

@VoidedWarranty

24 күн бұрын

also known as very thin cigarette paper! I found some that's about the same thickness, works great

@mafoose

21 күн бұрын

As someone who has ran a pretty large variety of CNC equipment, one clicky MPG will be just fine

Hi James, one little idea that may help eliminate that last 1mm of warp you mentioned in the ABS-GF part is to cut a ~1" square of aluminum foil and put it under the removable plate at the center of the bed (or centered under the part). The mesh has no problem compensating for the slight curvature we introduce to the plate this way, and that slight bend often seems enough to make a part feel absolutely 100% flat when testing the corners on a surface. I have had pretty good luck getting rid of that really frustrating teeny-tiny see-saw effect on parts off the MK3S (tent enclosed only) to the point where I pretty much just leave the foil under there all the time. I even stacked 3-4 pieces of aluminum (successively smaller/pyramid style) underneath some troublesome ASA parts and was pleased with the result

@RC-fp1tl

11 күн бұрын

Genius!

Man, the sounds of the laser are really damn satisfying.

Thank you for posting about ABS-GF. I've never tried it and picked up a role after seeing your video and it solved all of my issues in using ASA and ABS.

Some thoughts: 1) The font(s): To my old eyes, all the digits run together. I would use a larger point size, or maybe a lot better, look for an expanded font with more space between the letters. Or apply some negative kerning. I have no problems with the X/Y/Z, though I do wish the text had just a bit more contrast with the background. But what you have is most likely workable. 2) Easier use with single encoder: Maybe replace the rotary axis switch with three buttons, one per axis. Remember the feed rate per axis for say the last 5 minutes, then drop to 0 mm for safety and force a manual feed speed set. Add a SET button to the feed rate knob, so you select the rate and then punch it in for the current axis. You could make it 'safer' by requiring both the SET button and the axis button pressed at the same time, but I think that would shortly drive you crazy. 3) Multi-axis with a single encoder: (I'm not real fond of this idea, but...) Add a pair of zero-center momentary switches for the X and Y axis. Or maybe a joystick switch. This will let you bump the associated axis at some reasonably slow/safe rate while using the encoder to set Z height. Probably disable the switch for X or Y if the encoder is enabled on that axis.

@sebastianjezierski8450

23 күн бұрын

I have to agree about the font. The rectangular zeroes and straight ones make it really hard to read, especially since you need to count the zeroes. The brackets make it even worse. Pretty much any other font would work better here. For metric at least, I'd prefer the steps in microns. (100, 10, 1, 0.1) is easier to distinguish than (0.1, 0.01, 0.001, 0.0001). I can see it being more confusing to someone, who's used to thinking in hundredths, though. And I have no idea what the imperial equivalent would be.

@lwilton

23 күн бұрын

@@sebastianjezierski8450 In imperial units for a surface grinder you would normally be dealing in thousandths and tenths, that is ten-thousandths. A thousandth is 25.4 microns, so a tenth 2.54 microns. I didn't pause the video to study the markings, but my impression was it was marked in fractions of an inch. That actually works for us imperial folk, at least with rounder zeros. The main important units are .001 and .0001, and it is really easy to spot the three or four zeros and know what you are dealing with. With more zeros than four you have to stop and think a bit. 🙂

Hey James, nice results! I'll have to start using that filament, that's usually the look I'm going for. Also, thanks for the TWO mentions, ha! Nice job.

I have printed with a lot of Phaetus ABS-GF and ASA-GF filaments and really love them.

Thank you so much for this video. I grabbed some ABS-GF for an upcoming Milo CNC build. Initial tests show awesome results.

Tip about printing with ABS: keep the part warm at 50 degrees Celsius during printing. I have a crappy printer and I have made a cartonboard enclosure to keep the inside warm. Also pump up the bed heating to 80 degrees. The bed heat will keep it all hot. Close all holes with tape. I am printing ABS successfully since a couple of years. No distortion, no warp.

@nathanquinlan2719

14 күн бұрын

+1 ABS loves heat. Hot chamber, print hot and letting it cool slowly ABS is far superior. I printed ABS strap clamps and they hold vises to a milling machine. Lot of bad ABS advise everywhere

You are incredible!!! Please push forward, I can’t wait the final solution, and after I will follow you as for the ELS, thanks A lot for what you doing

I recently printed bunch of raspberry pi eclosures for industrial use from this material. Really love it! Easy to print and as you said: very stable. I get less than 0,1 mm of warp in 150 mm long enclosure and now im very happy how neatly it fits together with machined components. Previously these boxes were printed from ToughPLA and PETG and warping was real pain.

@AndrasBuzas1908

5 күн бұрын

PETG warp? Unusual...do you mean you flexed it too much?

@Kizmox

5 күн бұрын

@@AndrasBuzas1908 yeah, big part problems

I've been printing ABS for years. I learned something today :D

The first filament I have used in the qidi q1 pro is the abs gf25. The print quality is stunningly good. After printing pla on unheated printrbot, the result blew my mind. Absolutely no warpage that I had been so accustomed to. Your work is just stunning!

I’m suprised Bambu hasn’t sold out in the wake of this video already! I’ve had this exact same problem many times, and typically have modified my designs to get around it. Very excited to try this out, thanks!

More of an observation on the part design, the mostly empty space, thin flat walls, and tall ribs for structural support, it looks like it was designed for injection molding. In my experience, with 3d printing you don't need to be so conservative with the volume of the part. You'll get a less flimsy part using beefy walls and faces, leaving only as much space as needed for the electronics. Depending on the infill pattern and percentage it doesn't use much more plastic and you can make the surface walls much thinner without compromising the structure (it also deadens sound pretty well so you don't get that hollow plastic sound when using it)

The finished product looks awesome!!

Sir, it looks absolutely fabulous, like you bought it off the shelf of a handyman store. Thanks for recommending this filament.

Sometimes I find 3D printing isn't the answer - I made a "box" by printing the corners then filling in the sides with flat sheet aluminium, which worked fine. Even printing each panel separately and then bolting/gluing them together might work better.

@nils1953

24 күн бұрын

It's probably cheaper as well

@Coolgamertag120

22 күн бұрын

​​@@nils1953no way aluminum is cheaper than 3d printing with asa or pla

@nils1953

22 күн бұрын

@@Coolgamertag120 1mm (~18gauge) aluminum sheet metal, the size of that front panel costs less than 2€ where I live. At $30 per 1kg that ABS print is most likely not expensive. Just an estimate though.

@amygdalohippocampus

16 күн бұрын

Yeah but for a custom size enclosure, then you’re cutting / finishing aluminum, which requires more tools and more work. IMO the real benefit of 3D printing isn’t making stuff that could be injected molded or stamped, it’s making custom versions of them without all that work.

Very strange. I have used plenty of eSun ABS+ in the bambulab with the default ABS profile, never really had much issues. What does help against warming is pre-heating the chamber with the build plate high for a while. Also, afaik eSun released some custom profiles for bambulab printers for their filaments. Worth a try. PLA+ is excellent as well, only disadvantage is it cannot handle heat.

AWESOME! Video! Thank you! Going to try ABSGF soon!

Finished panel looks amazing. Thanks for sharing your research. I'm going to try some of that ABS GF for technical parts.

Nice, loved it when everything comes together. The Centroid Acorn 6 has 3 MPG's input (or more).

You have amazing talent to complete your projects. I enjoy watching your video's.

If you haven't tried them, eSUN provides filament and preset profiles for a number of platforms including the X1C. Their profile for their own ABS+ prints far better than the stock Bambu profile, but like you I still had to slow it way down.

@Smokinjoewhite

19 күн бұрын

It's funny that I find while the eSun ABS+ prints very nicely and doesn't shrink or warp much that the layer adhesion is really poor compared to other ABS I have used. I know you are talking about profiles and not the material itself but I have printed using the same esun profile with both eSun and Sunlu for example and the parts that came off using the eSun looked brilliant but were extremely brittle along the layers, the sunlu was a little shinier and didn't hide minor flaws as nicely, but it was way, way stronger.

Excited to see your next move

Esun ABS+ is known for having especially shitty layer adhesion. If you have to print in abs and can't use fiber I would recommend using Fusrock ABS, I believe they are the provider of Phaetus filaments. It has pretty good layer adhesion if you print at texture PEI 110C, nozzle 260C, 200mm/s. They also don't stink as much. Although all my prints came out shiny, I've seen other users print(probably used lower nozzle temp) coming out matte.

@hayden9944

24 күн бұрын

I am going to try this filament - thanks! I use Ultrafuse ABS. Better results then Esun and nice matt finish.

@kl1nk0r

24 күн бұрын

I use ultrafuse too, for a long time now and I am pretty happy with it.

I think my main thought on the robrenz suggestion is this: Yes, absolutely listen to such advice. And consider it. And then decide if it's applicable, what you want, etc. Because hey, "advice is a dangerous gift, even given from the wise to the wise, and all courses may run ill." So, ya know, do what you want -- just don't blithely ignore the advice, either.

Thank you a lot, you made believe that i finally dont need injection molding for now. Thanks again. the laser machine is so satisfying. And its such a good idea for marking my logo, gonna see if i can find a cheap model.

Lovely case. Will have to keep GF in mind.

It's great when you are able to up your game after a failure!

Nice work! Looks sharp

Many Thanks for sharing all this information. It was very interesting and will help me a lot. Your desing skills and manufacturing capabilities in your workshop is ......WOW :-)

Man that is gorgeous. Gotta pick some up!

Really interesting. I was one of the people to recommend ASA as I have had great results, but now I realise all prints were half the size of yours or smaller - on an enclosed Prusa Mk3s with a fan heater in there. I just got an X1C and can't wait to try the ABS-GF I just ordered after watching this :)

Nice work on the printing and Laser marking, that is epic, and nice selection of the 4D Systems gen4-uLCD-70DT HMI display too!

Really cool, James. I thought a strategy that would be more material agnostic might be to orient the control panel in the printer so that it is more evenly constructed over time. Perhaps one of the difficulties with the shape of your control panel is the large broad surface is built up, then eventually the printer is essentially concentrating on that one apron area. Orienting the control panel another way so that the intersection of the large broad and the apron is the pinnacle, or the valley might force the printer to spend similar time all over the part allowing consistent heat build up. I realize that would be sacrificing the smooth face you get when the control panel face is against the bed. So, plan B would be to add frangible print stacks or columns to various places in the broad area, which would force the printer away from the apron area, giving thermal balance to the whole part. Anyway, just some thought experiments.

I do not have a 3D printer but the more I watch your channel the more I think I need one, very interesting channel 👴🏻👍

Very useful info, and inline with our experience of PET-G et al

This is gold! I always struggle with warping and try everything to handle it… greentec pro is nice but damn it warps on big things… I will build a heated chamber…

For pure ABS-PA blend try Calibram BT. The most interesting material to try is "medical" TPU like Isoplast 2540 - shrinkage 0,1%, 87D, HDT 100.

X-Max3, 65C chamber, 270C nozzle, 105C bed, 0.6mm nozzle, 0.22mm layer height, 0.63mm line width, 25mm/s first layer, 40mm/s on the rest, PC-CF. I've printed dozens of parts similar to that with zero warping and a beautiful finish.

@riba2233

24 күн бұрын

👍

@MrMistery101

22 күн бұрын

I was wondering about this too. Didn't he showcase the xmax3 almost a year ago now too?

@riba2233

22 күн бұрын

@@MrMistery101 yeah he did...

@jamesm3268

15 күн бұрын

40mm/s? Wth prints that slow? Like watching a turtle triathlon.

@GordLamb

15 күн бұрын

@@jamesm3268 eh, with a 0.6mm nozzle that translates closer to 80mm/s in 0.4mm terms. :) The slower you run things, the better the interlayer adhesion and the less warping force you apply as you build up the layers (to a point, anyway).

Why use the laser marking? Just print a different color filament right in to the part. It will be so much brighter and any color you want. No argument against the GF ABS but ABS is well known to have terrible layer bonding. Especially if you use any cooling at all and if you don't use cooling it looks terrible. ABS sucks unless it's filled like you found. The downside is _any_ filament with filling like GF or CF is *weaker* than the plain filament (doesn't matter for this use case though). For this case I would have just used regular 'ole PLA or a "tough" PLA. Only if for some reason it didn't work out (eg. heat) would I try the exotic filaments.

For the ASA in the X1C, increase the bed temp. I generally run 100C with the textured plate. Also if you aren’t, use the gold textured plate as it’s thicker than the original texture plate Bambu had.

The E3D 0.6 HF nozzle helped my layer adhesion massively (with a +10-20C depending on material and needs)

Great project Thanks for sharing your expirence with all of us :-)

I also like ABS "Girlfriend" as a usable, functional part filament. I have a Tungsten head for it though, because she's tough, sassy but enduring for the long haul.

Wow the laser marking came up so well on that. I had no idea!

For Robins application, I believe he is 100000000% correct. But, you are more geared to the dude in the garage type viewer. And the dudes in the garage appreciate something thats more attainable.

@VoidedWarranty

24 күн бұрын

and I'm the dude in the garage that has more time to tolerate whacky setups than a shop does! and none of my machines pay for themselves, so the cost really is a huge deciding factor for me. I'm constantly having to trade time for money.

@MumrikDK

24 күн бұрын

By attainability logic a PLA filament seems like it would be absolutely fine for this extremely basic task. This seems so way over the top. It's just a control panel box for indoor use on a device that isn't high temperature.

Very cool to see ABS-GF solving your problem! I bought a spool of bambu lab ABS-GF and it prints beautifully, I just haven't found a use case for it yet. I mostly print smaller objects and regular ABS works just fine, but I'll be sure to use GF for larger parts. And can I just say, that laser marking is extremely satisfying to watch! I don't have a need for that (yet) but I did look up the price of the machine haha

Its funny, I basically went down exactly this same road with similar parts in the past week and a half too (used about 4kg from tests and failures). My solution ended up being PETG-CF, which is sorta similar. And has a nice matte finish too!

Before reducing speeds to try and get better prints out of my abs and ASA and the like, I first did actual flow rate testing to figure out at what rate they became brittle and then I worked on reducing fans as much as I could in the profiles until overhang started to suffer. Fans on those materials can have a truly detrimental effect on them. And the X1 Carbon profiles like their fans. Mainly I brought the regular fans to pretty much zero and then I don't remember if Bambu slicer has it but in orca slicer I could set fan speeds for various overhangs and bridges independently and that's where I spent most of my time working on the fans. Not saying it would help you with such a large part is I don't remember the last time I printed a part that big without some kind of glass or carbon fiber fill but still things to think about.

Great video. During the past few months I have hopped aboard with new Qidi Tech XSmart3 and the new Q1 Pro. I am very impressed with their filament quality. I have nonstop success with Qidi Rapido Pla, tough ABS, and their PETG. I just grabbed a roll to try their Nylon CF to try out at $99 a roll and have interest in their glass fiber filament. Looking forward to testing the nylon CF out. Will let you know results. I am looking at starting my own channel in the near future. I enjoy watching your channel much.

Excellent work James! This is why I absolutely love 3D printing and just making your own stuff to an extremely high standard. The laser is amazing and the fit and finish is beyond professional. One suggestion if I may? There is a bit of a hollow sound when you click the chicken head knobs around and jog the wheel. I wonder if filling that control panel with some sound deadening foam or insulation would make it feel and sound more premium.

PLA+ has never let me down! I use eSun brand on a Anycubic i3 mega machine it’s a wonderful simple machine and as I said, not let me down yet!

Very nice!

Honestly, I love ABS. I've never had warping issues that a little fine tuning couldn't cure. The parts come out beautiful, smooth and precise. I think the only material I like using more than ABS is TPU.

Nice video. The laser etching is impressive. When you put in the heat set inserts, you can quickly press a piece of flat metal on the molten plastic to improve the connection and mating surface.

wow who would have thought glass fiber reinforced abs was such a great material for strenght and stability, someone should make powertools shells out of it or something

Thanks for the lead on the ABS-GF. Looks like a solid engineering material at an excellent price.

Skookum as frig bud! Excellent vid, learned a ton!

Nice job James, looks excellent. A Mesa board like the 7i76 can support two mpgs, add on an expansion 7i73 for another four if wanted, the 7i76 connects via Ethernet to a Raspberry Pi 5 running Linuxcnc. You can roll your own interface for the touch screen if needed with qtPyVCP or use one of the supplied ones

wonderful video, informative and entertaining

Thank you for this excellent video. I don't believe there are enough videos about printing fuctional parts. I am only sorry that I missed most of this series; if I were following this series, I would have recommened Qidi PET-CF filament as something worth trying. It is fairly expensive at $65/kg, but I have found it to be very easy to print with on my X-max 3, and it is pretty strong as well.

Very nice job. If you wanted to go old school, you could silk-screen the markings with white paint, but this looks pretty good. That plastic really looks like traditional crinkle-tone black.

I like abs but since I designed my own PET pullstruder I swear by it, it won't warp it's stronger by a mile and if it breaks it will not sheer off but instead form a hinge through the middle layers. And nothing is better than free! My design is easy and can be made for as little as $35.00, a 12vdc geared car wiper motor being the most expensive part @ $20.00 secondhand. They're indestructible! 👌 Even candles under the Heatbed is enough for a perfect first layer, without a Heatbed a raft 50mm+ outside is a must. I suggest a Heatbed/candles though. Seems silly but I was actually amazed. Best of all there's no odour at all!

I absolutely love the markforge Onyx GF filament (also the replicas of onyx GF from 3dextech) you're absolutely right the tolerance and end part quality is so good. I made a 25 hole and 32 hole plate for my 5C spindexer to increase its usability. Now using the 0° and 5° i can use it to make 32, 64, 25, and 50 tooth gears. Including the normal 36 hole plate, i can make about any division i realistically need in my home shop, and if i come across any oddball i can always print another dividing plate :D. The filament itself is plenty durable but if it really came down to it i can ultimately use them as stencils to make metal plates.

I've had great results with Qidi PET-CF, it gives a nice matte finish and large parts don't warp.

I used PETG for something similar and it did great. I hit it with the sand blast cabinet real fast and it looked like and injection molded part.

Welcome back. Hope the hernia is healing ok now.

@Clough42 Looks amazing! And really reminds me of backlit cockpit control panels! If you ever want to make something like that: 6mm plexiglass with pockets milled into the back for embedding neon bulbs, LEDs or LED-PCBAs, then spraypainted white for light diffusion (laser reflective/proof), and spray painted black for light retention. Finally, the patterns and text is laser etched through the black paint so the text and lines light up. The font used is usually the old-school machinist font Gorton (open source: Routed-Gothic) or Futura. And finally a recommendation for a highly legible font for the display that's specially designed for safety-critical systems: the B612 and B612 Mono fonts, which are open source and tested to be used on aircraft cockpit screens.

One potential further improvement: the filaments with fibers in them warp the least during printing but even then there is a bit of influence on the amount of warp by moisture in the filament. And filaments with fibers absorb moisture from air about 10x faster than the same polymer without fibers. So if you had good success with ABS-GF that has been laying around for some time but it was still not perfect then you might try drying it over night before you print the next project with it. Your results might get even better. BTW if you ever want nice white look look at PCTG-GF. There is no pigment on it, the natural PCTG is translucent and the glass fibers refract the light inside it so much that anything with like 2mm wall thickness or thicker becomes sparkly white rather than translucent. And layer lines are basically invisible. And I have printed a different control panel with it similart to yours with the result perfectly flat and perfectly fitting together.

I found that it you put a decorative vertical vent at some point in any long face helps a lot. I like to double stack the vents with an ofset so nothing can really get through but air. ...-...-...

Woo Hoo, James!

I use PETG for all mechanical parts like this, easy to work with, can take the heat and it doesn't warp like ABS does.

I have an X-Plus 3, and was having issues with intermittent underextrusion, kind of like what you saw. I figured out that the Fusion Filaments spools were just slightly too wide, so when I put them in the drybox, they would pinch. The extruder just barely had enough torque to pull through this, so during higher-flow segments, it would underextrude. My solution so far is to avoid the drybox for those filaments.

I have axactly the same problem with ASA like you. its super fine for small prints but big prints warp buildplate. Last print 240x230mm I had every corner 5mm above the bed. Beautifull print!

Never heard of abs-gf filament, but it looks interesting. I use PETG for most of my prints. Larger prints do warp, but I use mouse ears or tabs to fix that.

If I have unsatisfactory results with any material (I work with Bambu Studio / X1E) I do three things: - dry the material to the bone (17...20% RH) - perform the Flow Dynamics calibration - perform the Flow Rate calibration. It takes a bit of time, but it yields great improvements.

Hi James, I really enjoyed this video. One suggestion re. PETG, I think Prusa recommends using a textured sheet when printing with PETG. That (using the smooth sheet) might have been the reason it didn't print completely flat. It doesn't solve the "shiny" issue, though the texture does reduce the gloss a little, so there's that.

Great and informative video. With all due respect I've abandoned ABS years ago because of the shrink/warping problem. You can go to more exotics like gf or cf, but the cost is higher, and you wear out nozzles at a rapid rate (unless you buy the steel hardened nozzles). I think it's a little overkill for an enclosure. I've been using PLA for a long time now in my shop. I've used it for jigs and fixtures and have had no problems. Occasionally I'll have a part that wants to warp, It's usually where I did not apply the glue stick. A little application and problem gone.

I have recently started using Overture Super PLA+ with good results. It is more like ABS than PLA aside from the normal PLA issues with heat.

In my experience, PLA creeps some and then stops. I built a large structure from 80/20 with PLA connectors. I did make the connectors much more massive than the standard aluminum fittings, printed with lots of perimeters and heavy infill, but they’ve held up extremely well over the years. (I made it about 3.5 year ago.) I made some test parts before running several Kg of parts. With solid PLA under the screw heads where they’d clamp to the extrusions, I tightened everything down pretty tight (sorry, dunno torque), then came back few days later and retorqued them. Checked a week after that and they needed a bit more tightening, but since then there’s been zero movement. I think PLA can work really well for structural connectors on 80/20, you just need to design them really rugged, trading mass and area (and things like diagonals supporting right-angle brackets that’ll be under load), use plenty of plastic and re-torque the screws over about a week and after that creep won’t be an issue. (Although it could still be for situations where a connector will under a significant torsional load over time, as with a cantilevered element carrying a load at its end.) I used quite a bit of plastic making a whole bunch of connectors for a big assembly, but it was way, way, waaay cheaper than what the aluminum 80/20 parts would have cost.

26:46 the top numbers on the right potentiometer are 0.01 0.001 0.0001 0.00001 (all a 10th of the previous) but the bottom numbers are 0.1 0.01 0.001 0.001 is it intentional that the last 2 are the same or should the last one be 0.0001?

I think folks really underestimate PLA.

I have no interest in filament printing, but I always enjoy your stories about solving problems.

I had some ASA parts to print and no matter how hard I tried they warped pretty good. My printer doesn't run as fast as a bambu but even with slowing it down I wasn't happy.I finally got around to fully enclosing my printer and adding a small heat element and they now come out so much flatter. I didn't think it would matter for a part only 4-6 inches long but it absolutely did. I can only imagine how much worse it could get on something big like that.

I have printed some larger parts similar to those on my X-Max 3 using Qidi ABS Rapido. They turned out flat and seem quite strong and not brittle. I printed them using the slicer default speed, but used a chamber temperature of 65 degrees, nozzle 270, bed 90.

Big flat and thin sheets of plastic are no go regardless of material or if it's FDM or not, add ribs liberally, especially around screw posts and mounting holes.

Great video. During the past few months I have hopped aboard with new Qidi Tech XSmart3 and the new Q1 Pro. I am very impressed with their filament quality. I have nonstop success with Qidi Rapido Pla, tough ABS, and their PETG. I just grabbed a roll to try their Nylon CF to try out at $99 a roll and have interest in their glass fiber filament. Looking forward to testing the nylon CF out. Will let you know results. I am looking at starting my own channel in the near future. I enjoy watching your channel much. I am hoping to offer a mix of 3d printer and CNC content once I get up and running. Qidi Tech has been incredibly responsive to all questions. I have become a strong supporter of Qidi Tech these past few months, hoping they release a multispool add on for the Q1 Pro.

You’re final print has an almost parkerized finish. Nice.

Because I have a CO2 Laser I have done a fair bit of 3D printed 'frames' with Laser cut Acrylic panels (inset into the 3D prints) for the flat surfaces to get around some of the issues. PETG if I want a bit tougher or PLA works or if you have the heated chamber then you do you (still working on heated ones for a couple of mine). Initially takes a bit of a rethink in the CAD'ing but after that fairly easy.

Very pretty part. Now i want to get an engraver.

If you haven't seen the video "Brick Layers - Why did no one do this before?" I recommend it. It's basically alternating heights on wall passes to lock them together and make them much stronger. I have no personal experience, but I just saw the video so thought I'd pass it along. Doubt it does anything for shrinkage. It's slicer-driven, not filament specific.

11:25 That is for certain, a layer shift, it was printing mid-air after it collided with the curled up edges from the large hole, then managed to 'recover' and print a mostly floating piece that was then later knocked off once leverage was enough to do so from simply printing at the top and layer stress helping tug it up into colliding again. Also when printing large parts like that, those chamfers and sharp corners are going to work against you, suggest rounding them a bit as well as a generous brim. Basically when you print something that's a 'pyramid shape' it's fine, but those chamfers are more like an inverted pyramid, each successive layer gets a mechanical leverage multiplier on the previous layers. Long solid areas with even larger long solid areas ontop of them are doomed without crazy good anchorage and temp tuning, where thermal shrinkage can't be negated. Print slow, print at the lowest reasonable temp you can, try to dial cooling in, the more stable the filament is before more gets added, the less compound stress, but at the same time you aren't trying to rob all the heat out of it, just freeze it and keep it at a uniform temperature.

Your channel and Inheritance Machining have definitely became my top two favorite KZread channels. I enjoy your Fusion Tuts you do. I learn quite a bit from them. Also I feel you do a lot of mods to your equipment and I enjoy watching that and seeing how to improve machinery!

You have a better expirience with ASA than everyone i know.

The PETG-CF from Bambu Lab has given me all the extra stiffness I've wanted out of PETG while also offering a much improved appearance.

@w.lindberg86

22 күн бұрын

I'm glad you've had success with it... I've ran 2kgs through my X1E and it's been awful. PAHT-CF has been good for me though

@vecchiarelli7928

22 күн бұрын

@w.lindberg86 I've found that you have to dry it like crazy before it will print well with the default X1C settings. I dry it at 70C for a minimum of 12 hours or, preferably, for a full 24 hours before loading it into the AMS. After that, it tends to print fine although, for large models with flat bottoms that are many layers thick, the nozzle will inevitably get a large halo of filament stuck to it so you'll most likely have to pause and remove the buildup before resuming.

@w.lindberg86

22 күн бұрын

@vecchiarelli7928 good to know! Thanks for the tips. Maybe I'll give it another shot. Although I found the ABS-GF about a month ago from Bambu and haven't printed with anything but that since. It's my new PLA lol

@vecchiarelli7928

22 күн бұрын

@w.lindberg86 It sounds like I need to try their ABS-GF! My previous experiences with ABS on my X1C, even with preheating the chamber for half an hour with the bed set at max temperature, have been sub-par with a lot of warping and ugly surface finish. That has made me not even consider using any other ABS related filaments but seeing the surface quality in clough42's video has me thinking I may invest in an insulation kit for my X1C and a few kilos of ABS-GF for projects that don't warrant the expense of PAHT-CF or require the UV resistance of PETG-CF. I print a lot of parts for use in freshwater marine environments so water and UV resistance are both critical properties. PETG-CF gives me that and has the best surface finish for things like dash panels or corner caps while being fairly cheap at $35 per kilo for the Bambu Lab stuff. Speaking of which, it would be nice if BL started offering bulk discounts on their carbon and glass fiber reinforced filaments. I'd also love to see an ASA-GF or ASA-CF filament from Bambu Lab.

@kevinwishart77

17 күн бұрын

😊​@@vecchiarelli7928

I was kind of hoping 3D printing wouldn't work so we'd get to see your sheet metal brake and plasma cutter in action! (but it looks great)