My Color Grading Workflow for Raw Photos with Adobe Lightroom / Camera Raw

Фильм және анимация

In this Adobe Lightroom Tutorial, I’m showing my process of color grading a sunset landscape photo in detail.
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0:00 Intro
Especially if you’re shooting raw, color grading is a vital part of creating an eye-catching image. Of course, there are many ways to tackle it, so with this video I want to show my personal Lightroom color grading process from start to finish.
0:45 Profile & White Balance
The very first thing I usually do is to change the used camera profile. For more base saturation I’m choosing the Adobe Landscape profile, while if I want to just slightly brighten up the darkest parts of the image, I’m going for the Adobe Standard profile. To continue I go on adjusting the white balance. For sunset I love adding more temperature which results in an overall warmer image. Sometimes it might be hard to decide what exactly you want to achieve. In this case it might help to first turn up the vibrance and saturation all the way and then adjust the white balance, to get a better feeling for the colors of the photo. Once done, turn down the vibrance and saturation again.
2:18 Balancing Exposure
Before I can continue the color grading, I balance the exposure of the photo to get a better idea which color themes work, and which don’t. For this scene, I dropped the highlights, raised the shadows, added a bit of exposure and finally some contrast. After adjusting those things, the photo still felt a little gloomy, so I added vibrance for ‘friendlier’ colors.
3:25 Local Adjustments
Of course, local adjustments are another vital part of the exposure-balancing process. For this photo, I wanted to make the sky just a bit darker. With a cloudless sky like this it is super easy to do using graduated filters. I added one over the sky, roughly overlapping the mountains. However, to not change the brightness of the mountain peaks, I used a luminance range mask and specifically targeted the bright sky. Once that was set up, I simply dropped the exposure, which also gave me some more blue tones in the sky.
On the left side there is very strong, beautiful golden hour light with a bit of fog. With the use of a radial filter, my goal was to add a little more fog and make the golden colors just a bit stronger. Adding more fog is actually very easy, just carefully decrease the dehaze amount. This adds fog, but also, we lose saturation, and it will make the area brighter. To counter the lost colors, I simply increased the white balance temperature inside of that radial filter.
5:25 Tone Curve
At this point comes my favorite part: the main color grading. For sunsets or sunrises, I love to add some more red / yellow tones using the tone curve. In the red channel I very carefully drag the point for the highlights to the left (adding red tones) while in the blue channel I drag the point for the highlights straight down (adding yellow tones).
6:33 HSL
Further adjustments are made in the HSL panel. First, I take a close look which colors might be distracting and how I can fix that. In this case, the green tones in the center were a bit too much for my taste. In the hue tab, I dropped the green hue all the way down. This gave the grass in the center a more yellow-ish look and makes everything look much more harmonic. Then, in the saturation tab, I boosted the orange and blue tones slightly. Finally, in the luminance tab, I dropped the blue luminance for a darker sky and increased the greens for slightly brighter grass.
9:00 Split Toning
One of the more impactful changes comes in the color grading panel (split toning) For sunsets or sunrises using a warm tone for the highlights and mid-tones of the photo makes a huge difference. Boosting the saturation of those gives you very intense colors. Of course, this might not be for everyone as at this point it gets very vibrant. You can balance this a little more by giving the shadows a cold color tone.

Пікірлер: 80

  • @ThePhlogPhotography
    @ThePhlogPhotography5 ай бұрын

    Hey, hope you could learn something new from this video! If you want to support this channel, maybe you want to become a member? :-) www.youtube.com/@ThePhlogPhotography/join or become a Patreon www.patreon.com/phlog

  • @lauro.dominici
    @lauro.dominici2 жыл бұрын

    I couldn't stop being distracted by the 2 fingers in the upper left corner, lol!!!

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Haha, they are distracting, but really important to get a clean shot here :D

  • @ttk0139
    @ttk01392 жыл бұрын

    Fantastic !! More such easy to learn adobe lightroom tutorial for landscape in coming days.

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you very much!

  • @nickstepanov9228
    @nickstepanov92282 жыл бұрын

    Very clear explanation and nice timecodes, very respectful. Thanks

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much!

  • @gpraneeth3140
    @gpraneeth31402 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for this tutorial.

  • @shengyetang7220
    @shengyetang72202 жыл бұрын

    I love this kind of tone!

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much mate!

  • @RafaelCBeltrame
    @RafaelCBeltrame2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you! Amazing tutorial!

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you very much!

  • @danielseleanu3161
    @danielseleanu31612 жыл бұрын

    Great tutorial!

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks Daniel!

  • @baimaiPL
    @baimaiPL2 жыл бұрын

    Thankyou for tutorial

  • @wrealestate8778
    @wrealestate87782 жыл бұрын

    Fantastic tutorial thank you

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much!

  • @nachtfuchs321
    @nachtfuchs3212 жыл бұрын

    This is what Bob Ross would sound like in LR ^^ But honestly, you presented your workflow easy and understandable and the result looks amazing. Thanks for sharing, it really helps 👍

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much! That means a lot to me!

  • @gazdyer2732
    @gazdyer27322 жыл бұрын

    Excellent , thank you. 👍

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you!! :-)

  • @Roho_irianto
    @Roho_irianto2 жыл бұрын

    thank you!!!

  • @nilusarkar5733
    @nilusarkar57332 жыл бұрын

    just awesome

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you!!

  • @melissahall7009
    @melissahall7009 Жыл бұрын

    Thanks 💙

  • @TwitchTamilan
    @TwitchTamilan2 жыл бұрын

    Saw you post on reddit ,it really nice

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much!!

  • @myPixelFactory
    @myPixelFactory2 жыл бұрын

    Calibration is a such under used tool :) great tutorial one more time.

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much! It is indeed!

  • @jpdj2715
    @jpdj27152 жыл бұрын

    Fine. I would add that I always check for the effect of the black point and white point that LrC has, relative to the "used" gradation values in the photo (raw file). In the example, the histogram shows a short stretch of seemingly "unused by photosite data" on both the left and right extremes (of the X axis). If you go to the Tone Curve diagram and - for the white point - take the upper right function line dot in the [X,Y] extreme and slide it horizontally left to the point where you want "pure white" to be. Mirror this for the black point. Note we have not set a curve and the tone "curve" is a straight line, still. This now remaps the raw photo's EV values to LrC's internal representation of gradation. The consequence is that the image gets more pop. Stretching the "used" gradation helps to make that gradation more recognizable in the end result. As I may shoot with "highlight weighted" exposure, I can end up with lowering the white point 2 EV and the difference is big. Basically the amount of photosites with a very bright value is so low in the brightest two EV that it seems there is nothing there and consequently they are individual single pixels where fluent gradation may not be an issue. Which is to say, we can ignore their gradation resolution for print or for display on a monitor. The side-effect of properly setting the black point and white point is that the sliders in the exposure controls retain their full scale within the new black-to-white domain. If you have, say, two EV headroom in the histogram and try to compensate that with the exposure sliders, you quickly run into limits of these sliders.

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    I'm going to sticky this since its very detailed information, thank you for writing this here! Absolutely right about giving the image more pop by adjusting the white and black points!

  • @jpdj2715

    @jpdj2715

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ThePhlogPhotography - AbFab. I reread my write-up and wholly stand by it.

  • @nasinecs8390

    @nasinecs8390

    2 жыл бұрын

    can you send pic what exactly do you mean pls :)

  • @jpdj2715

    @jpdj2715

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@nasinecs8390 - Mr Phlog reports back that he understands my point. It would be a nice follow up video for him to explain this visually. The description I gave is totally clear, you just need to go to Lightroom, find an image that has a gap at the right in the histogram and go to the Tone Curve to do precisely as I wrote. If you have a low contrast shot then that may also have a gap on the left - same story. In the end, the question with the black and white point is, if you are turning what should be grey in the subject into black and what would be very light grey into white. As long as your images have what, in your artistic eyes, should be white or should be black, this approach really helps. If after the tone curve end point shifts there is too much pop in your artistic eyes, then you can e.g. de-saturate, lower contrast, etc.. Also, after you went through "exposure" in Lightroom in your current way or the one I describe, take your shot into Photoshop and turn it into 16 bits and export, and turn it into 32 bits and export. Then compare versions with and without the tone curve adaptation. The interwebs are full of "sharpness" (detail resolution) hype and almost zero attention is given to what I call "gradation resolution". This was all important in the old film days. It was where Ansel Adams spent a lot of time in the darkroom and wrote about a lot, even when he never used the term "gradation resolution". It was what we discussed implicitly, when comparing, say, Ilford HP5 and Kodak Tri-X.

  • @orionmc1111

    @orionmc1111

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@jpdj2715 This was refined by Minor White with the Zone System for maximizing film negative dynamic range -- much easier today!

  • @johnwhite2155
    @johnwhite21552 жыл бұрын

    very very nice.thank you.

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Happy you like it John!

  • @Jude2408
    @Jude24082 жыл бұрын

    Excellent. Do you have a video on editing wave action on an east facing beach at sunrise - waves too dark and sky too bright.

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you! Sadly, I dont think I have an image like that, but if you have a raw file, I could give it a try and show it in a video

  • @victorsalvi_
    @victorsalvi_2 жыл бұрын

    Awesome image and best yt photoshop editing channel :D

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much! :-)

  • @ridabdullah7320
    @ridabdullah73202 жыл бұрын

    Amazing Thankss !!! Love Your Workk 🌸 Keep Inspiring 🙌🏻 A question thouh how did you bring up the Saturation & Hue slider in Color Grading Panel ? Thats really cool! 👌🏻

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much!! Look at the top of the color grading panel, there are a few circles (for highlights, mid tones and shadows) clicking on them will bring you to those sliders :-)

  • @jaysonfontela5761
    @jaysonfontela57612 жыл бұрын

    💖

  • @froznfire9531
    @froznfire95312 жыл бұрын

    It´s a little over the top for my taste but explains the different tools very well, good job.

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the comment! I hope this will help you anyway! :-)

  • @zigmephempo
    @zigmephempo2 жыл бұрын

    Hi there, I just can't understand my exports photo look different tone in different displays like in mobile screen. Should I do monitor calibration? Or which is the correct colour tone in the screen. Please help me out 🙏🏻

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Hey, thanks for the question! If you export a photo for screen (for example Instagram) you want to export it in the sRGB color space. But its always wise to use a calibrated monitor

  • @krishnakumarraghu2584
    @krishnakumarraghu25842 жыл бұрын

    Great insights. Thank you 🙏🏽😀 Additionally I see that you are using windows. I’m currently looking for a good laptop for photo editing. My ThinkPad has abysmal color accuracy and coverage. Would you mind sharing your model?

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you for the comment! I'm using a Eizo display to get accurate colors shown, Editing on a laptop is a bit tricky because I think the used displays often dont show the true colors! Also, I'm a big windows fanboy, I cant get used to apple stuff haha

  • @krishnakumarraghu2584

    @krishnakumarraghu2584

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ThePhlogPhotography 😀 I understand. I'm getting started with photography as a hobby and I am unsure about investing in a display like that but I'd like to have a colour accurate display. I haven't used Mac before too. Have been a windows and linux guy. So I'm thinking of getting a base model M1 MacBook Air and getting used to Mac OS. Do you have other suggestions?

  • @mikehughes6366
    @mikehughes63662 жыл бұрын

    Can you get a similar result in Lightroom cc

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yes, that should be possible, I dont think LR CC has range masks though

  • @farbenluxus1972
    @farbenluxus19722 жыл бұрын

    I saw your channel today recommended by KZread. When I listened to the first sentences I heard your accent and first thing which came to my mind was: sounds like a german guy. :D After I checked your channel info... Well I wasn't surprised anymore. =) Just to clarify: Your english is very very good. I understood everything even watching with 1.5 speed. Thanks for your video, very good content. However, one thing I didn't understand is the thing with the white balance and full saturation/vibrance... How does it help you to get the right temperature? Maybe you can explain it in detail?

  • @giuseppe_milella_fotografi3489

    @giuseppe_milella_fotografi3489

    2 жыл бұрын

    I think he's saturating the color in order to make them more visible and to make much easier the decision of how balancing the photo as well. But it is just an idea of mine

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much for the comment! I try my best to hide the accent haha :D As MIL 93 pointed out correctly, this way I can decided more easily which colors I'm going for (how much blue do I want to have in the sky? how much warmth in the foreground and so on)

  • @georgelsla7421
    @georgelsla74212 жыл бұрын

    Hello Sir. I am partially colour blind. Do you have any tips on color grading for colour blind photographers?

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for your comment! I'm not sure if I have any tips here, it might be an interessting topic to dive into! One thing I can think of: The Color Wheel might be very, very helpful to you since you can see which colors work together nicely (opposing colors or colors close to each other for example)

  • @georgelsla7421

    @georgelsla7421

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ThePhlogPhotography Thank you for your response Sir. In order for you to understand my issue, I'd like to give an example from your video. For instance, when you were working with the hue on the green grass, i could hardly spot the difference from the before and after. 😂😂 So when i colour grade, people who see colours might find it very saturated on the colours which i find are quite right or poppin.

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    Oh I see. Don't worry, that change I have done there is very, very minimal. I guess if I wouldn't talk about it, no one would really notice it. Its a subtle change that will make the photo 'feel' a little better :-)

  • @georgelsla7421

    @georgelsla7421

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ThePhlogPhotography I see. Anyways thanks alot Sir. Keep up the great tutorial and you've earned a subscriber ❤️

  • @yoloyolo3003
    @yoloyolo30032 жыл бұрын

    What camera did you shoot on? I am surprised that your picture is not noisy after all that editing.

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    This was shot on the Canon 6D

  • @yoloyolo3003

    @yoloyolo3003

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ThePhlogPhotography that'd a nice camera! And this is great turtorial which I will definitely be refeo to to improve my color grading. Also, is this process mainly for landscape photos or can it be applied for even potrait?

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@yoloyolo3003 oh I'm sure this can be applied to other photography niches like portraits, it does make sense to use different colors for portrait though :-)

  • @lloydkjose9839
    @lloydkjose98392 жыл бұрын

    I like Photoshop in color grading due to its non-destructive editing. Lightroom is also good but Photoshop is superior in this.

  • @gunterrs

    @gunterrs

    2 жыл бұрын

    It's the other way around dude😂👇🏽🤯

  • @lloydkjose9839

    @lloydkjose9839

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@gunterrs It depends on person's convenience or experience.

  • @gunterrs

    @gunterrs

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@lloydkjose9839 ok Bro! Go get It!

  • @filipwielechowski1819
    @filipwielechowski18192 жыл бұрын

    But why is the image so dark in the first place?

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    So I have all the needed detail in the highlights (on the left side in the sky). This method is called ettr (exposre to the right). This way, I can edit with only a single image and dont have to do any exposure blending or hdr merging

  • @filipwielechowski1819

    @filipwielechowski1819

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ThePhlogPhotography Isn't it the other way around? ettl in your case - when you have dark image and you brighten it up and ettr when you have bright image and you darken it? I thought that you keep more detail when you darken the image.

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@filipwielechowski1819 you can restore more detqils by bringing up shadows, trying to bring down highlights often doesnt help if its too bright! So in this case, i exposed as far to the right as possible without overexposing th bright sky. This way I can safely bring back the shadows and not overexpose it :-)

  • @filipwielechowski1819

    @filipwielechowski1819

    2 жыл бұрын

    ​@@ThePhlogPhotography I need to read up on the subject. Cheers : )

  • @giuseppe_milella_fotografi3489
    @giuseppe_milella_fotografi34892 жыл бұрын

    It's all ok, but you have to use a very expensive and High Dynamic range camera to make this possible. Otherwise you will have lots of noise from your editing and your deep underexposing

  • @ThePhlogPhotography

    @ThePhlogPhotography

    2 жыл бұрын

    That's true, you probably cant get the same result with a smart phone. However if you want the best possible images you need certain gear (gear does matter to some degree after all :) )

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