I dont know if I got climbers elbow but one year into my climbing I got inner elbow pain 20 minutes into every single session for some months. Finally after some time I figured it out, by doing wrist rotation exercises as warmup, JM presses, hangboard once a week instead of twice, and climbing for 2+ hours instead of 3+. Now I'm completely pain free and my elbows feel MUCH stronger.

@JustinConnor89

14 күн бұрын

Love to hear that! Sounds like what I would broadly classify as climbers elbow. The shorter sessions seem to be a theme for those that have had success. I hadn’t thought much about wrist rotation, will try it out!

@GameTester5

14 күн бұрын

@@JustinConnor89 I have the same problem(ex lifter, had it in gym too), but I call it "Programmer elbow" for me because my left hand is always rotated really inwards on the WASD buttons on the keyboard. I found that rotating the palm externally and just slowly stretching and moving it helps a lot.

@JustinConnor89

14 күн бұрын

Lol programmers elbow, I like that. The rotation stretching makes a lot of sense. We rotate inwards a lot while climbing and I think things get tighter and more bunched up in that orientation over time. Will try incorporating more of that. Thanks!!

This video is exactly what I needed. Last year my climbers elbow got so bad I took a ~6 month break from climbing, and dropped from climbing v8 to around v6 when I was back. I spent the better part of this year improving and last month climbed my first v9. A few days ago the pain came back strong and I finally realized it never left me. Ill do what I can to explore this strategy of keeping it in check, rather than taking a long break and hoping for it to disappear.

@JustinConnor89

16 күн бұрын

Yes!! Everyone I talk to says it will not go away with just rest. Getting out of the pain cycle is huge I think, and then all the physios seem to agree that the tissue needs to get stronger to really get better. Hope you can figure out how to keep climbing! 🤙

Nice video brother. I swear this condition is so crazy, and its so interesring to hear the different ways people get over it. Glad to hear your feeling better, and look forward to more climbing!

@JustinConnor89

16 күн бұрын

Thanks Perry. Yeah it’s a crazy one for sure. Once it’s gets going it’s really hard to stop. Really haven’t had to think about it much with my current approach tho so that’s been great

I had tennis elbow way worse than climbers elbow (at the time, I was paying per session, so was doing >5hrs sessions) - had to take 3 weeks off climbing as it got to the point I couldn’t pick things up. Did load of the targeted physio to get that manageable, then the climber elbow came along. I’ve got manageable pain both sides of both elbows at the moment, but still progressing. I think part of that is modifying technique to reduce big elbow stress. I generally do 2-3 indoor sessions per week & try not to have mega-long sessions. I know Dave McLeod posted a vid (and has a book) whereby his serious climbers elbow resolved, which he largely put down to nutrition - probably something a lot of us aren’t great at.

@JustinConnor89

12 күн бұрын

I bet nutrition is a big part of it! I have heard others theorize their protein intake (or lack thereof) was a big player. Hope you are able to work thru it! Would be interested to hear how it goes for you. Thanks for watching 🙏

Although a little like a shampoo ad, very informative and interesting detail that i think will help a lot of people 👏

@JustinConnor89

13 күн бұрын

😂 I was honestly wondering if someone would mention me stroking my hair so much. Thank you! 🙏

Dealt with long periods of climbers elbow as well. For me, focused bicep strengthening and substantial rest time between burns do a good job of fending off the pain. However, the only thing I’ve found to truly eliminate it has been more prolonged periods of high protein caloric surplus. Hope you continue to have success in finding your path through!

@JustinConnor89

15 күн бұрын

High protein caloric surplus… interesting. If anything I think i tend to under eat a little bit. I track my protein somewhat but know I often come in less than I should… interesting. I’ve heard others have success with bicep strengthening as well. Thanks for watching!

@kylezindel314

13 күн бұрын

I started climbing when I was underweight and it’s been a long process to gain mass. I definitely notice during periods when I’m not eating a significant amount of protein or calories, my climbers elbow is way more noticeable.

@JustinConnor89

13 күн бұрын

I believe it! I haven’t paid enough attention to it specifically, but I struggle with under eating and try to at least track my protein to hit a reasonable level. Makes a lot of sense that the two would correlate. Thanks for watching!

Ive been struggling with tennis and golfers elbow as well. I found two things have helped: 1. scaling down the duration of my sessions instead of doing 2h-2.5+ hours of limit bouldering going to failure 3 times a week, I've put a hard cut off at 1.5 hours. The intensity is still high and I try really hard, but after 1.5 hours (usually when I start feeling gassed and tired) I just stop right away. This has allowed me to actually train more often (4-6 times a week, if I want to) 2. Antagonist exercises: I'm not sure if it's just because they provide pain relief or if they actually help, but negative curls and tyler twists with the theraband provide a lot of relief. I also do some push workouts for the triceps which may or may not be helping.

@JustinConnor89

14 күн бұрын

I love the idea of scaling back the duration of sessions. I have experienced it myself a little as well - like if I know I’m on a bouldering trip for 4 days or something, I only try hard for a couple hours each day at most and I can get thru the trip pretty healthy. I’m gonna try all of what you mentioned there, I like the negative bicep curls or even doing them as a neutral grip pull-up negative is nice too. Thanks for the input and for watching!

You just gave me a great idea! Has an ex lifter who follows Mike mentzer, and coaches like Arthur Jones. There is a method for bodybuilding that argues volume is worse and the less the better, therefore you should be getting all your stimulus with as much intensity as you can. And I was trying to figure out how to apply this to climbing. Thank you for your suggestions!!

@JustinConnor89

16 күн бұрын

Totally! My mom is a nurse in her 60s and they (doctors) actually encourage her to do more maximal exercises as well since those are what actually stimulate adaptation. Doing a lot of the other stuff gives you the wear and tear without actually getting you that much stronger 🤷‍♂️

I find that antagonist training helps alot. Mainly dips, preferably in rings, or handstand push ups. Basically exercises that would match the same level of strength as you would with the exercises that typically aggravate the injury.

@JustinConnor89

16 күн бұрын

That’s great insight. I had some success with push-ups for sure but like the “match the same level” approach

Golfer / tennis arm stretching helped me a lot and helped me to cure it, where you would go to the ground put your hands flat on the ground pointing towards you and then moving backwards to a pain level of 8 and holding that for 30 seconds then easing off again slowly and doing that daily for a week helped me to cure it. It really is uncomfortable not being able to use all your movement.

@JustinConnor89

16 күн бұрын

I had some relief from stretches as well that seemed to help me get out of the pain cycle. It’s interesting because the science doesn’t seem to support that stretching actually helps, but 🤷‍♂️ - thanks for the tip!

@DonVentris

16 күн бұрын

@@JustinConnor89 np man, hope you find your way with it! Just remember its your body so things could always be different. Have a great day!

@JustinConnor89

16 күн бұрын

Really appreciate it! 🙏

Great video. Do you still mix in the targeted exercises that you mentioned? Or do those not work unless you do them constantly?

@JustinConnor89

13 күн бұрын

I haven’t been doing them in a while. With shorter, less frequent sessions I haven’t felt the need really. I do think consistency is important on those exercises tho and long term they will be important again I think