UPDATE MAY 2022
As Anakin said "IT'S WORKING. IT'S WORKIIIIING!"
As I said in one of my earlier replies, Mr Cool told me to go ahead and unhook the linesets. But "no guarantee" they won't leak refrigerant.
Due to that I hired a professional that was familiar with the diy linesets.
He did not need to test the refrigerant.
He said the "plunger set up" worked fine to reconnect.
So if your are this far and reading this, save yourself $781 and just close the valves and do the work yourself.
But the other reason I hired was to rework the lineset location. Mr Cool recommended the linesets be looped under the unit rather than behind (like all their previous recommendations suggested.)
***Tip
HVAC guy was worried about bending the copper like I was, however he found just behind the insulation the copper was ribbed in order to be easier to bend. I knew that about the end at the room units, but did not know that was the case at the condenser.
Diy.
***Tip
We talked about how good the unit worked.
All the way down to -15.
His opinion was at zero degrees, you are better off using your alternate heat source.
The condenser loses its efficiency and is not saving you any money over (in our case electric baseboard).
His recommendation was save the wear and tear on the unit at that temp because it has to work so hard.
Sounds like this helped a few people.
I can post/send pics of new setup, but it's really no big deal.
All in all I would say if you got a new condenser due to warranty, just disconnect and hook it up yourself.
Be cool.
Be blessed.
Full/original story below:
It was 2:30am and zero degrees when our bedroom Mr Cool LED turned on with P6 error code.
Manual was not a lot of help, but to diagnose, yes, you have to take the cover off the outdoor unit. We have 27k 3 zone 9k unit. All units showed P6. If only one has the code, then the Manual is correct and you probably have a pressure issue. But if all three show the same code then you need to check the outdoor unit for what code it shows. Ours showed P1.
The first thing they told me was the line sets are probably leaking. That's the 2nd video clip with not much description - they are all as tight as can be no leaks.
Then I found out the issue is a new one to Mr Cool as I got through to help line while they had techs in the field working on this. Something they haven't seen before.
It is the high pressure switch that's stuck. And like an old Ford transmission the only way to get it to move is to tap on it. (Not with a hammer) It is welded on so not a simple DIY replacement part. Just got to tap and see if the code clears. Then it's good for...?
Not sure if it's related to cold, but it was the coldest day that ours went out.
So, remove face (the inner with Mr Cool sticker) follow 2 yellow wires to pressure switch. BUT - One of mine was separated. Looked like both had been sliced by something and one broke apart. I don't know about yours but my unit was loud and vibrating from day one. I asked them and got nowhere - it's just the way it is... But I think all the vibrating could have broken mine apart as the one wire was definitely loose. The other came off with a tug, didn't have to cut it.
I sent them pictures and they said to strip both wires and wire nut them together. That would bypass the switch and we'd have heat!
Did it.
Worked.
Happy wife happy life.
It is a warranty issue so new one is on the way. Thank you Mr Cool.
Hope this helps you.
There are other videos that show how to remove the cover and black plastic piece to access outdoor LED code reader.
Merry Christmas.
Yes. Jesus is the reason for the season.