Outstanding is right! I learned so much from this video! Great instruction and attention to detail.

I watched this last night after doing some staining and oiling of a wood project earlier in the day. At about 19 minutes into this video, Jeff notes HOW TO SAFELY DISPOSE OF STAIN SOAKED RAGS. I didn't think anything of this at the time. Early this morning I had a sizable garage FIRE which was FROM THE GARBAGE CAN I HAD THROWN THE RAGS IN!!!!!!!!! It took 3 fire extinguishers to put it out. Another couple minutes and I probably wouldn't have been able to stop the fire and we may have lost our house. HEED JEFF'S WARNING!!!!!! If I could post photos here of the damage I would.

@wdtaut5650

3 жыл бұрын

A friend of mine had a similar experience. This danger is REAL! Pay attention, folks.

I made a replacement table leaf for an old quartersawn oak table I inherited. Could not quite match the finish until I stumbled upon your guide. Thanks to this video I nailed it and now have a new piece that matches so well no one can tell which one is the new one.

Thank you for your very clear and detailed description of a mission oak finish of a new wood project. I am about to embark on my first Arts and Crafts project, and I feel much more confident that I can finish the wood successfully because of your instruction. Thanks again!

Outstanding video, Jeff. Man, how did I not find this a few days ago before embarking on finishing these chairs I'm working on?!

I really like the detailed format you use showing all the steps in detail. But man... what a lot of work and time and clean up after each step. Did not know so much goes into the finishing process. I can imagine this being one of the reasons so many who venture into woodworking get frustrated and quit. As for me, being a newbie getting into woodworking, I will definitely be looking into easier, yet effective ways to finish. But if this type of staining ever becomes necessary, I now know the process.

Great video Jeff - I really appreciate your attention to detail and methodic approach.

Thank you for demystifying this!

Great job! I read your pdf file and was thrilled to find this video - it really brought things into focus. Thanks for taking the time for such an instructive and thorough job.

@homesteadfinishingproducts3919

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the positive feedback. A video like this is a lot of work!!!

Thank you for your expertise.

Awesome technique! thanks Jeff. I'm using it on kitchen cabinets and it's quite close to Stickley's finish.

Thank you for this very detailed video showing your techniques! I've used arm-r seal and wood dyes before, but this helped fill in the gaps. I prefer wood dyes for their clarity, but my next project will be the first time for seal-a-cell. Looks like a winning combination.

@homesteadfinishingproducts3919

2 жыл бұрын

Sorry no. I pretty much made it up as I built it.

Very informative nice job thank you

Thanks for the video.

Thanks for the great instructional! Do you have a tip/technique for a final buffing? (i.e. dust bibs in that last coat).

Hi Jeff, this is exactly what I was looking for. I building a custom staircase in a 1929 arts & crafts home for a client of mine. The newel, skirts, knee-wall cap and balusters will be painted and the handrail newel cap and bottom shoe rail will be Oak. Unfortunately it is hard to get White Oak stair parts. Will this technique work good with Red Oak? If so are there any additional steps, like filling the open pours?

Love it Jeff! I'm a fairly new shop owner and recently switched to transtints. love them...we mostly use for tinting sealers and topcoats. im have a heck of a time staining hard maple doors with them though. we've tried a lot of interations...differnt grit preps, preppeing with scraper, sealing with shellac - various cuts, sealers, conditioners, mixing the tints with water, alcohol, a combo, etc. wiping, spraying, spraying then wiping...still getting the age old issue of splotching! I've searched high and low and can't find a proven set of processes, wondering if the master could shed some light on it! ive read your book btw and it's a 'bible' in the shop! thanks & nice work!

@JewittGuitars

Жыл бұрын

In a production situation most factories spray it on using a lac thinner/alcohol mix and if you avoid wiping it shouldn't splotch.

I'd be interested to know where you got the color sample?

Hi Jeff, Do you have any suggestions if you do end up with a "hard edge" ? I have some hard edges on the panels of a frame and panel cabinet door I just made.

Excellence.

Great video!! But 1 qstn: Pre emptive grain raising? Never heard of that. I refinish hardwood floors & they get wet all the time during the sanding process- once we final buff 120 screen there is no trace of where the floor got wet. Or if we waterpop after buffing all the grain seems to raise again, even the spots that got wet & were sanded then re water popped. Maybe in the finer grits (180-400grit) the rules change?

@homesteadfinishingproducts3919

5 жыл бұрын

Its done all the time in furniture making. Applying water makes the cells damaged in the sanding process stick up (raised grain). Sanding again shears these off - and the result is less raised grain when a water stain is applied. "Water-popping" in floor finishing, at least to my understanding is typically done to make a stain take a little darker than it normally would to a sanded floor.

Do woodworkers only use this combo technique with furniture? Does anyone use this technique with baseboards and interior doors? I am refinishing the old woodwork in my home and this seems like it would be too much. I'm not afraid of the work but the time constraints would be a bit too much perhaps. Could I perhaps use the SealACell first, then apply a gel stain with a topcoat? Also, I thought the instructions on the back of the SealACell said that the product was intended to be used on wood that was NOT to be stained?

Thanks again- I wanted to ask; im trying to match a couple Red Oak repair boards to an existing old top nailed Red Oak floor that has old finish Ambered over 20-50yrs or more. So its a orange/gold/yellow color overall but you can see the light boards & dark board variation from board to board clearly- how can I match that look? The Zar Amber varnish stain was close but not enough board to board color variation.

@cmoremac

3 жыл бұрын

The best thing you can do with red oak.......it burns well.....barn timbers......it’s ugly and has every bad quality as furniture or flooring material..Think “country oak” furniture and cabinets

@bauermobiletoolsystmfabrct8686

3 жыл бұрын

@@cmoremac actually I kinda like No 1 common Red Oak mixed with Select: it has a lot of character/marble look/color variation

I cannot find sample number 5 "aurora" on the website or the eBay store. Is it the oxide yellow? Thanks!

@JewittGuitars

7 жыл бұрын

It was out of stock when you checked. Here is the link www.ebay.com/itm/Homestead-Mission-Finish-Kit-Sample-5-/262929028860?hash=item3d37ca96fc

Does anyone know what the style of that bench is called? I particularly like the style of tool well and I think I'm going to incorporate it into my next workbench build. Great video btw!

@byhammerandhand

4 жыл бұрын

This is usually called a "Danish" workbench. Mine looks just like this. I used the plans from Tage Frid in Fine Woodworking. Been using it for more than 35 years.

This video is so incredibly helpful! I’ve done this technique on my mission oak kitchen table and it has turned out beautiful. I’m ready to apply the polyurethane finish. I’m going to use an oil based, wipe on polyurethane. Do you recommend a spray coat of shellac prior to putting on the polyurethane to prevent color lift or is that not necessary?

@homesteadfinishingproducts3919

Жыл бұрын

No to the shellac. Just use the wipe poly as a sealer.

do you have the plans for this table?

So I was going to attempt this finish on a project I'm doing right now. One part of it is something I tooled on the lathe and I chipped out a little piece that I was going to fill in with wood filler, during this process when should I do the wood filler after the dye?

@homesteadfinishingproducts3919

3 жыл бұрын

I would probably do it after the dye.

I ordered the Seal-A-Cell sealer, but i don't have the tint dye for the previous step. Can I use my chosen minwax stain color instead, and then the sealer, and then continue from there? Or, should i skip the tint step and apply the sealer to the sanded piece. It is not new wood...had a dark maple stain which was sanded off leaving some residue in the wood grain. Thank you. I hope you reply quickly because I'd like to proceed tomorrow. :)

@homesteadfinishingproducts3919

3 жыл бұрын

It won't look the same as my recipe.

@curtchaplin

3 жыл бұрын

@@homesteadfinishingproducts3919 I am going with your recipe. Bought the translucent tint dye and the sealer...and proceeding according to the plan in your video. Thanks for your response. My Mission (Morris) chair is going to look great.

I am finishing some QSWO cabinets, I have purchased them unfinished. I have followed this process, but there is some blotchiness, do you know what might have caused this? It’s not too bad and it seems to be correlating with the tightness of the grain and how the wood was cut. Any tips to prevent blotchiness?

@meganwarnke1958

2 жыл бұрын

I used the mineral spirits during the gel stain portion and it helped!

What is the purpose of the first stain, then a second stain? As instead of just one stain then finishing?

@homesteadfinishingproducts3919

7 жыл бұрын

The "second" stain is technically a glaze and is done to highlight the grain.

I'd love to know which color of dye stain was used here.

@JewittGuitars

Жыл бұрын

TransTint Medium Brown #6004

@pridenprejudice2004

Жыл бұрын

@@JewittGuitars Thanks!

W

If viewers are already using quartersawn oak I would highly recommend just using 100% tung oil. Comes out very beautiful. It takes a lot of waiting but it is completly non-toxic. Apply a coat. Wait a few days. Lightly sand and reapply. Wait a few days. Lightly sand and reapply. Then leave the furniture for two weeks to dry. Wipe up any surface residue. (I used some soapy water to take some excess oil off surface.) When done, your furniture will look like it belongs in a museum.

@daveburrows4212

6 жыл бұрын

Sure, if you love the color of oak, fine. I love the look and feel of an oiled finish that's been nicely waxed, too, and I don't find maintenance a chore. But this guy is after a particular look, that of Stickley (mission oak / arts and crafts movement) furniture, and tung oil isn't going to get there.

@neilgrossman8738

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Jeff..... I had sent you an email recently regarding what sanding grit to use prior to adding dye stain. You recommended watching your video so I tuned in. I got the answer to my question pretty quickly but continued to watch the complete video. Adding the dye stain, sealing it and adding another stain just blew me away. Great information for sure! As a woodworker when it comes to finishing we all tend to get a little nervous, it's always the gray area when adding a finish. Your simple low key easy to understand was fantastic. I picked up alot of tips and want to thank you for taking the time to make it Jeff. Lastly if I may I've used GF products ever since they started making it available to the retail market. A little pricey but you get every Penny's worth using any of their products.....Thanks again! Neal in NC.

DO NOT TRY THIS. I ruined a pool table that took four years to build. Results are not like what you see in videos. Doubts? Get a few pieces like your project and see if you can get everything to match. And be fair. Do it like you would for your project. What you will find is that nothing comes out the same. If you absolutely must do this, do not apply sanding sealer until everything is the same tint/color on your project. Test scraps. If you get color continuity, stain everything THAT day. Honestly, this is a nightmare.