I've taken my car to the mechanics three times in my life time. One at a local shop, one at a european car specialist, and the last at a mini cooper dealership. The first time, they failed to fix the issue and I was able to fix it myself with a new intake solenoid. The second time was at the specialist and my car was misfiring so a fuel injector and the thermostat were "replaced" (which I found out a year later, they didn't cause I tried plugging in the old thermostat and it was completely different). Still wasn't fixed, so the last stop was at a dealership in which they replaced all the things I had already replaced including spark plugs, coils, new injectors, etc. Needless to say, they couldn't fix it and told me I needed a new engine. At 75k miles, I didn't think it was worth getting a new engine, so I took it home and looked up videos. I was able to fix all the misfiring by simply replacing the dirty fuel filter in the fuel pump. They didn't even look at it! Now I'm not saying it was the sole reason my car was not working properly, but I got cheated twice and paid a lot of money just to be told I needed a new engine when they completely overlooked a simple replacement. Thanks to these kinds of videos, I was able to save myself from spending another couple grand. Please keep posting videos, no matter how simple of a fix it is. You could save someone a lot of money. Now my code reader is reading cylinder 4 is misfiring. I'll be strolling through your videos! Thanks 👍

@TonyTony-je8tc

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you 🙏

@chakusdvds

Жыл бұрын

I'm getting a 1497 code-- could it be the dirty fuel filter? Thanks, Mike

@precisiont5188

Жыл бұрын

The Ford dealerships I have gone to are also very incompetent and deceitful.

@joeyjamesrisamasu9599

Жыл бұрын

Hello there, did you find out what the cause of cylinder 4 misfiring is? I have a 2002 R50 and have the same problem P0304 cyl 4 misfiring, I did a compression test and it is indeed below 150 psi. It could be the intake/exhaust valve I'm assuming but I'm not sure :"(

I want to thank you so much Mike, that this situation happened to you and for you posting this because this is exactly what happened to me after repairing a warp head from overheating, sending the head to the machine shop, and after the first... it started to do that engine idle, with misfires in all cylinders codes. and after finding and watching your video, I got to work, removed the Solenoid, cleaned it, removed the screen added power to the switch, sprayed it with contact cleaner, replace the screen then reinstalled it, started my mini and the idle was perfect!!! I hope my comments help anyone else that had the same situation happen to them... I tried cleaning first before buying a replacement solenoid... wow they are expensive!

@DanEvans-yb6wk

2 ай бұрын

How expensive and from where, please? Mine is doing the same thing. Thank you for the excellent presentation! I subscribed.

@adamhughes4442

Ай бұрын

Same. Mine is misfiring. Worse when cold. The mini is so problematic!!!

Was chasing the same fault. After changing both O2 sensors, saw this - Solenoid replaced and sorted withn minutes - thanks for sharing this, saved a lot of time and money

@MikeMDs

3 жыл бұрын

Nice! Glad that solved your issue. It was a strange one.

@brothermalcolm

Жыл бұрын

O2 sensors was mentioned by my mechanic too but at a huge cost!

What a GREAT video! We rebuilt our N14 and are just dealing with all the lights on and an intermittent rough idle. Makes sense to check this one as the head made 2 trips to the machine shop! Thanks bunches for your videos! God Bless you.

@MikeMDs

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info and the sub!

Thank you so much! I had same problem with my new rebuild N14 and now it’s good with new solenoid!

Of all the videos to help me diagnose my rough idle on my N14 r56, this was the answer. I had many but not all the symptoms of every other video, and I was really hoping to try anything, but replacing or servicing the timing chain (as this had been done only 20k miles earlier). This same solenoid was my issue and was SUCH an easy and cheap fix. We're back running smooth. Thank you very much.

@MikeMDs

Ай бұрын

I am very happy this helped in your case. Thank you for sharing.

My car has had this problem for years. I’m gonna go get this fixed, thank you!

@MikeMDs

3 жыл бұрын

Did it work?

Wow!!!! Just spent 6 weeks replacing part after part seeing error code after error code and this was the problem. This post just saved me from dumping a car I just bought 2 months ago.

@MikeMDs

3 жыл бұрын

Heck yeah! Glad that helped

@milank2964

3 жыл бұрын

I'm on the same verge

@wenghingtang2361

3 жыл бұрын

@@milank2964jc kkjyvvvkvv bY bb p l?bvvbvbbbbbbvvv vb hbo vb n/ ? Nu

Had same issue on my 2007 Cooper S recently. Changed plugs/leads and still had cold start issue. High Pressure Fuel Pump changed too. Sorted now, drives better than ever. MINI's are renowned for Fuel Pump issues as second time replaced now.

@puppacito

Жыл бұрын

Do you run it low on gas often?

@robinhosleftfoot

Жыл бұрын

@@puppacito fill full tank, then fill up when 3 bars left (10 bars on guage). Does this affect it?

Hey Mike! Thanks a lot for your video! Ive got same issue with my Peugeot 308 '13 with mostly the same EP6 engine. After a cold start, when engine starts to drop for a normal idle like 740-760RPM - this problem occured. Also - car starts shakin very violently when you first put it in a gear, no difference whether it be D or R. And once again - no failures or check-engine, no fault codes on both ELM or Lexia (basically - special diagbox for Peugeot\Citroen). I've tried everything from new coils & spark plugs, i've changed petrol station twice, even opened the valve lid and checked the timing chain - everything seems fine! And then I've found your video with the exact same problem, so i've chandeg the solenoid valve and voila! Everything finally works perfectly! Thank you man! Big respect from Russia!

Ive done everything that you’ve done but I still have had the same problem, thanks to you I’m gonna try to see if this is the issue! Thanks man

@MikeMDs

3 жыл бұрын

I hope it works for you!

This is actually super helpful, my gf’s car got a cam sensor code and a maf code, replaced them both and it hasn’t done anything, so I’m gonna replace that solenoid now and hopefully it works!

@cindybelisle9439

Жыл бұрын

What was the outcome?

I actually own a Peugeot 207 GT which has the Prince engine almost the same as this one. Thanks for letting us know what fixes you tried that didn't work. That's not embarrassing at all.

A good rule of thumb with these engines is to be careful about running fuel injector cleaners through your fuel tank... it can cause funk to foul up your oil and cause the VANOS solenoids to become clogged(ask how I found this out 😂) if you do run cleaners through I recommend changing the oil after the tank of fuel is almost out. You can spray the VANOS screens with brake cleaner(try not to get it on the plug) or let it soak in the acetone.

@BobmaxXD

6 ай бұрын

I’m now reading this after putting liqui moly injector cleaner in my 08 mcs

Hi Mike, I am currently experiencing something similar on my 2012 R56 non turbo. I rebuilt it after purchasing it for $500 with head gasket blown. I have P00BD codes show up about 400 seconds after starting. Slightly erratic idle at startup, then smooths out nicely. It does have very occasional surging, or possibly no fuel briefly at about 3000 rpm, which can set the P00BD code (MAF too high air flow). Replaced the MAF, O2 before cat, and spark plugs. It has 0.5mm bigger pistons (non turbo pistons), and head was decked and serviced. Block was decked also. I have ordered a new PCV valve, so that may be it. It's been running now 30 days since finishing the rebuild. Smoked the intake and found tiny leak at intake cam sensor. Cleaned O ring, now no leak. My son is a ASE mechanic, and so far he's stumped. I am new to Minis. It's fun to drive, but can't pass inspection. I did see a lean code recently also... but not normally. I clear codes, my son clears codes at shop, and keeps coming back. Could it be one or both of my Vanos solenoid's? Intake/Exhaust solenoids were removed before head went to shop, so they were protected, and I installed them myself. Sorry to bother you, but after hours of searching, your video checked most of my boxes for my problem. I tried to replace almost everything I could with new parts that I thought should be replaced. Also, what is the valve located in the valve cover in the center next to the air filter bolt? Not the PCV valve, the smaller one? I took it apart to clean it while rebuilding motor. Did I damage something?

@MikeMDs

4 жыл бұрын

Mass air meter faults are almost always due to a faulty throttle body. The throttle body is plastic and starts binding also the plastic gears inside start wearing out. Every MINI eventually needs a throttle body once in its lifetime. Thanks for watching my chanel and subscribing Kirk.

@KirkReed

4 жыл бұрын

@@MikeMDs Hi Mike, UPDATE: I took it to Mini. No help. They actually put a new throttle Body in, and a new Mass Air Flow sensor. Kept throwing a P00BD code. They also did a TSB for another code (new DME software...). When I picked it up, they had it idling for more than 30 minutes (maybe 40...) and when I drove out I saw the check engine light go OFF! I drove straight to DMV and it 'PASSED' emissions. That means no check engine light, although the P00BD code was in the Verified (?) section, not in the Pending nor was it in Permanent section on my Blue Driver OBD2. After driving a couple more drive cycles, Check engine light came back! Now I have two years to learn about my car. My guess is, this P00BD code is a cummulative number based on time of Mass Air Flow over time. Since my pistons are 0.5mm larger overbore, I believe it's measuring correctly. I think there is a limit in the ECU that if it goes over that limit, it sets the Permenant and Pending P00BD codes, so the light comes on. I now know if I let it idle for say up to 45 minutes, turn it off, then it probably will turn off the light for a drive cycle or two. The Mini dealership did nothing other than teach me that idling will help turn it off. Nothing is wrong with the car. I just need to find out if the ECU can have that Mass Air Flow limit number be increased... Any ideas?? I don't want to 'Tune' it, but is that what I need to find? Someone to tune it? I want the ability to remap the ECU back if done wrong. I don't want extra performance, just not have the light off. I do have bigger pistons. That's why I suck more air over time. Thanks for listening. I cannot find anyone else with this problem. Maybe that no one else bothers to rebuild a std non turbo Mini?

@KirkReed

4 жыл бұрын

I also swapped the Intake and Exhaust solenoids because you had that trouble. I also replaced the PCV valve. None of that helped. I am of the opinion it's running fine, just bigger pistons draw in more air past the Mass Air Flow Sensor...

@abdullahsoso118118

11 ай бұрын

​@@KirkReedhey, i know it's long ago, but did you fix it back then because i have the exact problem and i did the exact steps you did and still didn't fix it, hope you remember 😬😅

Those are the same symptoms in my 2014 Ford Mustang V6 3.7. I did so much work on it and its almost gone but the car still doesn't have as much horsepower as before and it still has a rough idle. I also changed the throttle body and it didn't seem to help. I also replaced the mass airflow sensor, spark plugs, used sludge cleaners in the oil, cleaners in the gas, etc.

My Mini is showing similar symptoms. Now I know what to look for. Thanks for the very informative video.

My N14 has erratic idle as well. Going to be giving this a shot, thank you Mike!

Great video I'm trying an aftermarket solenoid just for the test if nothing else. It's a used car I did timing chain, head gasket, shaved head by hand, replaced oil pan gasket cleaning out that film in pan, replaced water pump, installed new plugs w aftermarket coils, new f bumper support, sanded and wired brushed front frame/suspension, new backing plates (factory only) and wheel sensors. All aftermarket except front backing plates and all work well so far. Injectors need to be sanded like a piece of tubing to fit back in if you have high miles or they wont pop back in. I had to clean mine twice pretty well at 207K.

@MikeMDs

Жыл бұрын

Wow. Its a project of love )

Wow I literally JUST had the same symptoms on my, 2011 R56 N18, and I turned out to be the, Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, which is located on the fuel rail. Runs fine again. I'm going to go back in to Change both VVT Valves, tomorrow. Thanks guys

@MikeMDs

2 жыл бұрын

Very interesting. Glad you figured your issue out. Best!

100% the issue on ours, took it out and cleaned it with carb cleaner and no issues since. Thanks!

@MikeMDs

Жыл бұрын

Glad it helped!

THANK YOU!!! Been having same issues with my daughter's '08 Mini Hatchback. Neither her nor I could figure what the hell was wrong. Your vid showed us the only thing we didn't check. Replaced the VVT and we both look at each and did a victory dance. Thanks again!

@MikeMDs

Жыл бұрын

Great to hear!

Hi Mike I own a R60 Countryman Diesel 2013 . The problem is that I have is erratic idle on tick over I also tried holding the speed at 2000rpm, this was also erratic, once the car has been driven for awhile, take your foot off the throttle and then put your foot back on the throttle to pull away, I have a loss of power and the engine goes into limp mode, let the car stand for 3 or 4 minutes, it will come out of limp mode but still has erratic revs. The car has been in the mini main dealers for 5 weeks. So far, the parts that have been changed by the main dealer is the AGR Ventil, Glow Plugs, EGR Valves, and EGR Cooler, Pre heating Control Unit, Remove and install Intake Manifold, EGR Control, DP Filter cleaned on vehicle, EGR Cooler and Air Mass Sensor and DDE Control Unit Replaced, Walnut Blast and DPF Regeneration carried out. Then they removed DPF for thorough cleaning and replaced. After all this we still have the same problem. After watching your video which was very interesting, do you think the problem could be with the VVT Solenoid causing this? The car has only done 67,000 miles. Thanking you in advance for your help and reply.

Well done for finding the guilty part, sometimes I think back to the old 1959 Morris Minor, just a handful of parts to go wrong, and a huge space to work on your engine, that said I collect a 2007 used 1.6 petrol mini cooper tonight 😊

The N12 has two solenoids, one for each cam. My 08 Clubman (non-turbo) had a similar issue, but it was actually the broken plastic timing chain guild.

@MikeMDs

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you Michael you are correct, thanks for calling me out. I will make a note in the description. And thanks for watching.

@autobotavengerfireballxl5339

4 жыл бұрын

Every car has them it should kick a code my wifes ecotec 2.2 liter had the same issue

My 2009 Mini S is doing the same thing but also has a massive valve train tapping sound. I popped the valve cover off and the timing chain is super tight no broken guard rails. Head was in pretty good shape, but I found the engine had NO oil in it. So I filled it up and the noise quieted down a bit. Any suggestions or ideas? So far I’m narrowing in on the Vanos valve or maybe some sort of valve train noise?? The noise seems to be coming right from the center of the top of the motor maybe closer to the timing chain side, which is also where the Vanos is.

Thanks for sharing, another item to check on my rough idle no code venture.

Thanks this fixed my issue on my Mini!

Hi Mike, my mini is r56s, i have erratic idle problem(any time), Another problem is stalled problem when start on cool down status (if hold throttle around 5 seconds that will not stalled), no engine error code. Any suggestions? Also solenoid valve problem? Thanks

I had to like, comment and subscribe. Thanks to this video, I found and fixed my cars issue very quickly! Thanks!!!❤

@MikeMDs

9 ай бұрын

I'm happy it helped. And thanks for the sub!

by any chance, do you know what the up stream o2 sensor is reading when running good ? voltage wise

My friend has a 2010 cooper s turbo with a weird issue. Engine runs fine for the most part but throws a bank 1 rich at idle code. Checked fuel trims and when the engine is idling after start it has a ton of negative fuel trim value. Seems like the engine sorts itself out after driving for a while, but still idles rich. Supposed fix is new valve cover, that did not fix the problem. What other things could cause this?

thank you for the video as it stopped my head-scratching on a friends car first tomorrow morning we will be removing and inspecting for debris thank you for taking the time for doing the video

@MikeMDs

2 жыл бұрын

Good luck!

Thanks I really appreciate what your doing I changed the ignition coils and spark plugs and was the same, I just change the selenoide and work's great. Thanks again Cheers from Tijuana México

@precool

3 жыл бұрын

I miss Mexico. I grew up in San Diego and we had a lot of fun at Laser Club Oh back in the day. Good people in that city. Not many party types take the time to respect the locals etc.

@mvivanc

2 жыл бұрын

Hermano pero el cooper tiene 2 solenoides uno de admision y otro de salida. El mini que tengo es 2013 cual cambiaste?

Changed exactly this part with new original one. I have less ratle than this, but is the same. Car drives well, gives me good mileage. I think it's timing chain guides. Time to go to the service shop.

Solid man. How about a super knock combined with a cylinder misfire? I changed the trouble (3) coil but it’s still not strong but less choppy. Spark plug? I’m driving a 2007 Mini Cooper S. Thanks man.

Since you specialize in Mini's, I have a couple of questions. I am researching the Mini before I purchsase one. These cars tend to run hot. Can a cooler thermstat be installed? I live in Arizona. Oil consumption and oil funes seem to be another problem. A better synthetic oil with a hight oxidation temperature would be better than a regular oil . Is that something that is encouraged? How are the automatic transmissions in these cars? Thanks for your input....

Cheers, man. This issue just began soon after I finished replacing a coolant hose and replacing all the valve cover gaskets. Perhaps a pieces of old gasket rubber or shred of paper towel found its way in that solenoid.

I had experienced erratic idle as well even changing out the VANOS solenoid. Of course the same route we all go through, changing plugs, coils, blah blah blah. So for the heck of it I checked compression. During a compression check, one of my cylinder (#3) was low at 120PSI but only when cold. I repeat, only when cold, at first start. When the motor warms up, the compression check registers normal across the board. So I shut down, then restart the idle is fine. So I found the fault to be the teflon injector seal. But unfortunately, if you were to pull the injectors, you need to change out all four since they're all attached to the rail by a tight viton seal. I recommend when you change the seal, no special tools needed for this, I have a trick, I just use a "Paper Mate Ballpoint Stick Pens 2006827", google it, it's the blue one that we all have used in our lives. I slide the teflon to the major diameter since it's the same diameter of the injector to expand the teflon. Once expanded, slide it off and put it on the injector. Cut off the pen cap leg, then use the pen cap to compress the teflon, give it a couple of minutes. When you remove the pen cap take no time and insert the injector before the teflon expands. Insert the injector one at a time so you'll feel it bottom out. Wear gloves and clean the injector seats extremely well, no oil must contaminate the teflon seal. Then when you have all four installed, push the fuel rail into position and tighten the four torx bolt. Bosch part # 2707010018. Easy peezee!

Hi Mike, Have a 2005 Mini R50 automatic. My Mini just started to rev high before it shifts. Any Idea what would caused that? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

Hey I live way too far away from a dealership or anyone who can even work on my mini. My mini says it has a misfire on cylinder 1 I did new spark plugs, new wires, and replaced the ingnition coils. When she is above 2000 rpm she is fine but at idle it misfires and runs hard, but when you turn off and start back up again she runs fine as long as I don't go into idle.

Had all those problems. Poor idle, high oil consumption, erratic auto box, fumy exhaust. Took out the PCV which was OK but the whole thing was SO coked up. Cleaned it thoroughly and it runs like new. Thanks.

@MikeMDs

Жыл бұрын

Nice work!

Wanted to post my Thanks for this video. I was having the same sort of weird problems after an engine rebuild. Errors were bouncing around from O2 sensors to MAF and none of that fixed the problem. Since I worried that some debris from the rebuild had plugged up the existing VANOS solenoid, I added a (messy!) step. I pulled the fuel pump fuse, let it run until it stalled. Then I put a big tray under the car, pulled the old vanos solenoid and then cranked the engine a bit to let it pump some oil and any debris from the oil galleys out the vanos solenoid hole... Cleaned up that mess, put a new vanos solenoid in, and it worked... I had one hint it was vanos related as my code reader showed that the vanos angles weren't changing, but that somehow didn't throw a code...

@MikeMDs

6 ай бұрын

I'm glad your diligence paid off . Great job.

Mike my mini engine light comes on and then another engine light comes on and it starts moving slow after i let it sit then it drives good again and then it starts all over again

FANTASTIC information thank you.

Hi Mike...I am having the same engine as your mini but mine is Citroen ds3. I was just wondering if the Valve cover of N13 fit on N14 engine like Your mini or my Ds3

Thank you very much! this video saved me! i changed everything and the Idle was still abnormal! just unplugging the sensor made a huge difference. The motor is 8FP (BMW motor) that is in MINIS and also C3 (2011 - 1.4. VTI 95). My motor has 2 of those sensors, still not sure if both are a problem or only one.

Hi Mike, I have a 2002 MCS with an intermittent problem similar to the one you describe. It threw an EML and wouldn't hit 15 MPH. The shop replaced the throttle body and fuel vent valve. It ran fine for a few weeks and then while I was at a drive thru it started running rough again. It did make it up to 30 in the parking lot but kept sounding like it was trying to die. It didn't shake the whole car like you described - just no power. 30 was with my foot to the floor and very slow to increase. I had it towed back to the shop and they can't get it to duplicate. Could it also be a failing solenoid?

@MikeMDs

3 жыл бұрын

That engine is different, have them check the crankshaft pulley if they haven't already. They can come apart and cause your symptoms.

Haha I literally just got this issue fixed on my 2013 Mini Countryman. It drove me crazy. Had to have my oil pan gasket replaced along w my oil pan adapter due to a crazy leak and horrible burning smell. Got it back and it was still rumbling like crazy, turned out to be something w the intake valve not fully being on and air getting inside 🤦🏽‍♀️ now I’m getting check engine light but it’s for the thermostat 🙄..

@MikeMDs

3 жыл бұрын

I know. It's a love hate relationship sometimes. More love than hate tho.

I have a R56 N18 Minicooper S and the same thing is happening. When the Cold start happens the car struggles to start. It revs very oscillating and after 10.. 20 minutes running, the fault code disappears and the car runs fine. I have no idea what it is....?

unfortunately we replaced this on our 2015 copper s and it didnt work. Had to send it to the stealer and they diagnosed it with a bad High Pressure Fuel Pump. $4200 CAD quote. I found a Bosch HPFP on Rockauto and had the local BMW specialist shop do it for $600. Still didnt fix the issue. Now the diagnosis is that the timing chain needs to be replaced because the HPFP broke it (they are connected) 30 hour job apparently. This car is a LEMON!!! This is our 2nd and last Mini. Our R56 Cooper S had major engine issues and now this has a major fuel issue. And we put premium, ethanol-free fuel in and only the best oils.

I have the same engine noise in my mini cooper countryman 2012 and I have replaced my spark plugs and ignition coils. I just read out the code and its a p119D and am wondering what I should do?

Mike I have a issue! My mini isn’t producing a spark in cylinder 3! So we tried to check for a spark and the key won’t respond to starting! Now there’s no response.. Any thoughts? Thank you

Same thing happened to my clubman. Took me a minute to figure it out. Resorted to parts swapping. $$$

I have similar issue on my r56 07 n12b14a engine. When is cold revs go from 1200 to 1450 up and down on idle once engine is warm up it's okay. also when you drive and come to sudden stop revs drop below idle point for second and go back up to normal idle revs? Also when driving on clutch while parking I noticed when I give a bit of gas reverse lights glove brighter, when I release gas and engage clutch on idle lights dim again, same happening with cabin ventilation (ventilator blows a bit faster when throttle is pressed). Anyone had something similar? Don't know should I start change alternator, vanos solenoid or maybe is all this normal!? thank you!

excellent info. thank you

Interesting thanks for posting.

Hola ! Hacía la falla en frío y caliente ? Si desconectabas algún sensor de árbol de elevas no mejoraba ? Saludos

Heloo mike. I just change my spark plugs and coils on my 2008 copper s . Only thing is number 3 coil it steel won’t work, I take out the wire and looks like no power going from wire to coil. I should change wire or it could be something different? Thanks

I had the same issue and we discovered it was the dipstick not secured in place hence no crankcase pressure.

Great tip! Will definitely keep an eye out for that as our MINIs, age.

Hello, i have mini one r56 2012. Somtimes in the morning i have routh idle starting. I was at the dealership for 3 houers and its was feeling that they are not soure exactly what is the problem. The computer show: 00285A valvtronic, eccentric shaft sensor:reference.. I replaced the eccentric sensor, clean vanus, oil change, but it still routh idle cold starting. Maybe do u know what else?: - (

I had exactly the same issues with my mini, last month had the walnut blast, new coils, spark plugs and more. Just took it in Monday for the same as this video and they replaced the solenoid. I just picked it up drove it home and limp mode light just went on 😢.

Hi, did you find the issue? I have the same thing the engine just cuts out.. I’ve changed the brake vacuum pressure sensor following a different video but this still happens. I also have an engine light and a stop/start warning light on. Thanks

With a rough idle I would've also checked the PCV connection & its plastic hose too. The plastic hose connection between the dirty side of the valve cover and the intake manifold is notorious for cracking. Just take the OEM plastic hose (with its integrated fittings on each end ) out of the engine...pinch fittings at each end. Carefully cut out the fittings from the plastic hose. These fittings are simple BARBED FITTINGS at each end. Therefore, just go out and buy some 3/4 inch I.D. RUBBER hose of same length as the plastic hose. Slide on two hose clamps for the 3/4 inch hose, push those barbed fittings at each end and hose clamp them. This will solve the inevitable splitting of the cheap, thin walled, brittle plastic hose that is supplied with the car.

@randfcs

2 жыл бұрын

Question, have you seen any videos on how and where to remove the hose from? In the meantime, I just keep repairing it. I'm afraid to open a can of worms. Thanks in advance. ~Veronica

Don't you have to sync the new vanos to the car??

Greetings, my car has the same issues but it's only happens intermittently in the morning. After starting the car over 2-3 times it runs normal. Should I also change out the solenoid valve? Thank you kindly sir.

have you ever removed the temp senor on this type of engine, its not the standard green one... mine has a built on loom with 2 plugs on it.

N12 cooper having similar issues. On cold starts its pullsates a lot until warm then after that struggles to idle and will cut out all together. Also feeling a slight chugging when driving under 2krpm as well as an odd noise when above 2k rpm. Ive recently had the sparks replaced new valve cover gasket thermostat and battery.

@MikeMDs

4 ай бұрын

Its a tough one without checking things in person. If it has mass air meeter faults then it may be a faulty throttle body.

Hi my 2007 minicopper s RPM goes to the maximum when i push the start button how can i fix this issue please

My 2009 mini has a fluctuating idle. It is not clunky like yours, but is revving to about 1.5k then back down to 500. There is a whistle coming from the engine somewhere. Any idea on what it could be? I was assuming a vacuum leak.

Thanks for the vidio again mate you are a star,, just have exactly the same issue going mad replacing everything and no difference at all, just watched your vidio and i replace that selenoid and i need to mentioned i did check the old one and it clicked but something it wasn’t right inside anyway i put new one after that car driving like brand new! Thanks a lot

@MikeMDs

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it helped

@paulenriquez1

2 жыл бұрын

Could this also be the problem on a 2016 clubman?

I had the same problem which put the engine check light on,cleaning the throttle body cured the problem and reset the engine check light by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes Job done

2010 cooper replace ignition coils still has the erratic idling I’m a try replacing the the valve u show in this video

I bought a Mini S stick shift 06 Super Charger and about two weeks ago I started experiencing this on my mini specially when I stop after a 60 MPHor more I guess that's it.

I keep getting the p1497 code and I changed the valve cover , Maf and spark plugs I’m pulling my hair can this be the issue and have to change the vanos ?

My car started doing some of that weird chugging feeling every once in a while right before stopping or slowing down but now I'm having a 2885 code only after I get up to 3/4th gear "auto trans" and gas it moderately hard but not floor it. I have never floored the skinny pedal on this vehicle

@MikeMDs

3 жыл бұрын

This video is a rare issue and assuming all other resources have been exhausted. You may need to have the car diagnosed.

My Air Intake Duct Hose broke off, on the end where its connected to the Turbo...would that stop my car from starting? My car Turns but it doesn't click over and start...

@kartsandcars61

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, Ive just had the same issue

Hey I replaced it, got way better but still has start up issues please help?

Have you ever had a p1093 code if so what was it my e46 have ec code bank 2 to rich

Good day @Mike MDs I have a 2009 mini cooper r56/n12 I have been getting code 002B68 Mass air flow plausibility. 002b15 Differential pressure, intake manifold plausibility I have changed the VVt, The intake manifold map sensor and the Pcv==vc Membrane, spark plugs, and coils. still no change. I even double checked my timing as I also changed my Valve seals. Any suggestions

@MikeMDs

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, It sounds like a bad throttle body to me. Check out my other video on the top 9 reasons your mini runs rough.

Mine is revving higher when braking, We've checked no codes, We are in a point where Mechanics are telling it's a transmission problem, They want to open the gearbox, Please help it's a mini cooper 2002

I'm having headaches wit this r55 mini cooper I change the gas pedal OEM and the throttle body OEM. But I'm still getting the same code. E/D incorrectly and E voltage circuit low. I also send the mini to do a remap for the throttle and didn't work. I use multimeter and snap on scan tool and I can't get it fix. I'm a tech from Quiles Auto Repair. But is the first time that I can't find the problem I also send the car to the BMW local and their can't find the problem. I re ordered another throttle to see if it was defective but the other wierd thing is. When I press the brake pedal the limp mode appear only by pressing the brake pedal

@MikeMDs

2 жыл бұрын

Wow thats a good one. Sounds like an engine control unit issue. But that's easy for me to say when it's not my but on the line. Let me know if you figure it our.

hey mike I have an 07 JCW and when the engine is cold it doesn't like to start and I have to rev it for it to run. It does have the code for the MAF sensor but I know that more than likely means I need to change the throttle body. When the engine is warm I don't have this issue upon starting. any tips on how to move forward would be greatly appreciated.

@MikeMDs

4 жыл бұрын

Hard to know, may also be a high pressure fuel pump.

I've got this issue - had new spark plugs, coil pack, fuel injectors and then I tried this - bought an OEM Mini solenoid and it hasn't fixed it. Still rough idle and stalls eventually when static.

I know this is an old video, but figured I would still throw this in here. I had a similar rough idling issue about 200miles after I had to get a cylinder machined. Thought it was the fuel tank vent valve but after seeing this video I replaced the solenoid and it seems to have fixed it fingers crossed. I did lose the bolt for the solenoid so if anyone needs the bolt size it is a 10mm 6x16 bolt. There is another video of a guy actually doing the swap that is very helpful, recommend checking that out as well if anyone decides to do this yourself. Hopefully any of that was helpful!!!

@MikeMDs

Ай бұрын

Thanks for your input.

It looks like this might be my prob. 2009 Clubman, N12. Had a very bad oil leak on it, ended up replacing the valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, and oil pressure switch. Here's the chronological order of repairs since January...put a new foot module (basically the fuse box), new water pump, thermostat housing, and the plastic pipe connecting them, then all the before mentioned gaskets, then the plugs and coils, then the upstream O2 sensor, and just last week the alternator and battery. Oh, in that time too I also replaced the throttle body valve as well (used one). That looked like it might have gotten soaked with all the oil it was losing, since it was all on the passenger side of the car. Car was running great, except for a very small idle issue, and hesitating a little on acceleration. Ran great last night, went down the street to the gas station. Came out today, it started fine but then the yellow engine light with the little 'half slash' thing came on after I went about 50 feet. Turned it around and parked. Then I checked codes with my little Autel reader, got the P1057, and the P1062 limp home code, and the P115D refer to service manual. Is it possible that this valve might have gotten soaked with the oil it was leaking (it was BAD, I was losing 3 to 4 qts EVERY time I drove it) since the leak was actually pouring out the same side all these issues I was having before are on? I'm sure it might also just be age, it has 138,000 on it but I bought it wrecked 3 years ago at 125,000 and the guy that owned it before really didn't take care of it very well. I know if I keep having probs, this thing is gonna put me in bankruptcy! :/ I had around 6 grand in it before all this this year, and I'm pushing 10 grand now!

@MikeMDs

2 жыл бұрын

Sounds like you are bringing this thing back from the dead. I hope it returns the favor and treats you well once everything is sorted out.

@Timber81

Жыл бұрын

What's that song Kenny Rogers sings about a Gambler? With minis, you got to know when to fold, hold and Run Away!

mine is an oddball too apparently. Thanks for the insight.

@MikeMDs

2 жыл бұрын

Good luck

Mine started and all like that not quite as bad in drive but it just literally blew up and caught fire yesterday

hey bro mine does the same thing but leaking oil everywhere and coolant too and i got 8 code cooland drain super fast after i pour some in p0012 camshaft timing over retared bank 1 and camshafe position slow respon bank 1 random/mult cylinder misfire detected / cylinder 3/4 missfire

MR MD ? I got a very peculiar odor coming out of the exhaust pipe with possibly bluish white smoke. I’m running synthetic oil it’s a brand new oil change and it starts smoking after it’s been idling for a while not un cold start ups but when idling my first idea is that it’s a valve seal guides that are bad and it does that because of the way the heads are manufactured, but is it something else other than that that I can check before I go into Val seal guides? 2008R 56 non-turbo mini Cooper. 135,000 miles.

@MikeMDs

4 ай бұрын

Hi, If you let the car idle for a few minutes at operating temperature. Then hit the gas petal hard to rev it up. If you see smoke then it goes away . it is worn out valve guide seals for sure.

Thanks, video was very helpful.

hey mike i have a 2009 mini cooper s convertible almost with the same symptom, the code that came out was 2772. dme combustion misfire , cilinder 1.?/

Hey how you can check the time on a mini ?

My R56 is shooting off a vanos code. It will crank but wont start.

In the rest postion(locked position) how many degree its camshaft TDC

Having trouble finding the solenoids on a 2004 R50 Mini base manual. Can you show a diagram or pic for me?

I have a 2002 supercharged S R53 Mini Cooper, after I changed the intercooler it ran lean and it was hunting idle. It had a lot of the issues you found with yours as well. The exhaust was incredibly hot, so much so that it was bright red and looked like it was going to melt. I was surprised it didn’t! Do you have any idea what the issue would be with mine? I’m going to change the pulley just waiting on tools to arrive In mail

@MikeMDs

Жыл бұрын

If the exhaust is glowing red then it is because there is an air leak causing the cat to glow. Like fanning a fire. Check the gasket seals for the intercooler. It can get pinched and caused an unmeetered air leak causing this issue. I've seen it before. Thank you for subscribing : )

Did it have the original gas cap??? I know my 2015 was needing a new cap

Great information. Help here, I have a 2010 Mini turbo with misfire on 2 and 4 only a few seconds after starting when cold. I had change the coils of position and the misfire stays in place 2&4, customer is not in a hurry but we want to solve the problem without replacing parts as we go. Any advice? I have no new codes and the only old codes were misfire on all the cyl and the 2880 high pressure sys. After clearing there is nothing new. I could appreciate guidance thank you

@MikeMDs

4 жыл бұрын

-If the high fuel pressure shows below 4 bar during misfires. then the high pressure pump is bad. -These cars are know for burnt valves. Try a leakdown. My guess is a High pressure pump. Don't buy aftermarket! Or rebuild! You may need to replace the hose going to the pump as the fitting brakes during removal if you dont have the special tool

@rodneycampbell9832

3 жыл бұрын

I have Same issue, did you resolve it?