Hey I know..I missed an upload...everyone needs time off sometimes :)

@stephentootle6388

Жыл бұрын

You're excused this time Ray,,,It IS the weekend after all

@nathantilly3539

Жыл бұрын

you do you pal

@Zommari

Жыл бұрын

Aucorse you need time off or you think you are a robot 🤨🤔

@scipio6979

Жыл бұрын

No worries. Have one on us. 😊

@HouseCallAutoRepair

Жыл бұрын

You need a pressure transducer so you can log fuel pressure over time...

I think the wire from the fuse block to the pump getting hot was a clue. Either that wire is damaged somewhere between the pump and fuse block, or the pump is failing and drawing a ton of juice. If it were me, I'd run a known good wire straight from the battery to the connector at the tank and see if it stops acting up. But I'm sure by the time we're seeing this vid, Ray's already got it figured out.

@AK90

Жыл бұрын

My exact thinking when he said the wire was getting warm. Bypass it and check.

@imfloridano5448

Жыл бұрын

Joe, may I inquire what type of juice is the wire from the fuse block supposed to use. My truck prefers Bilberry and Passion Fruit 😂🤣🤣. This question, as a young mechanic in a military unit, was asked of me by my Platoon Sgt. I was cornfused. He told ne to use proper terminology when speaking to the grunts and for PMCS purposes. We could use slang among the pkatoon but dealing with the operators use proper military terminology.

@cyberfunk3793

Жыл бұрын

I was thinking about that too, long wire straight from the battery to the fuel pump and also check the ground side on the pump by example providing it a secondary ground.

@joevk6274

Жыл бұрын

@@imfloridano5448 It's an older Wrangler, so it probably likes Prune. 😆

@flysosky6464

Жыл бұрын

@JoeVK this is the way

Everybody gets frustrated troubleshooting at one time or another. I feel your pain brother! By now, I probably would've parked the jeep on the tracks and let Tropicana troubleshoot it! 🤣🤣🤣

@keithgreene5573

8 ай бұрын

A new dance move cam, followed by mec cam

Not my first video from this channel but definitely the one that earned my subscription!

The FIRST words out of my mouth when I saw the opening were, "I hope he's brought a phone." RAY, ALWAYS ALWAYS bring a phone on a test drive.

@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt

Жыл бұрын

Does it have a cigarette lighter...does that work...so if the phones dead also...which seems like that going to happen next,he should have a cigarette lighter phone plug adapter...

@andrewedwards6548

Жыл бұрын

I learnt the hard way when I forgot my phone was on charge and left it behind. Luckily got it close to a gas station before it died and walked so i could use their phone to call the workshop for help lol.

@CrimeVid

Жыл бұрын

Yup, found that one out !

@chrismulders2344

Жыл бұрын

Pre cell phone days...

@aoksys31

Жыл бұрын

Forget the phone... You should've just towed the rollback tow truck behind the jeep.

“You piece of Jeep!” LOL. That pretty much sums it up. (I can relate) 😆

The things I'd do: 1.) Check the wires out at the relay to see if they're grounding out (other than the ground wire of course) 2.) Check for continuity on the wires by connecting one lead of the meter to one pin on the fuel pump plug and then testing all the ends at the relay location (repeat for each pin at the fuel pump ... this will help ensure that there is continuity only for the one wire) 3.) Run a temporary wire to replace the green with black tracer 4.) Do an amp load test on the fuel pump 5.) Find a way to test the fuel pressure near the pump 6.) Check the fuel lines for blockages (not just the filter) In my guesstimation, it's something electrical so I'd lean more on the 1 - 3 on my list. Reason for my guess is that the wire was hot, and I'm guessing that it got hot enough to melt the clamp that holds it in the fuse block. In my estimation, it could be that the wire is grounding out somewhere, the fuel pump is drawing more than it's supposed to or maybe even an intermittent short in the wire causing arcing inside the wire. Replacing the fuse block may have a similar issue with the wire falling out until the reason for it getting hot is corrected.

@HughWoo

Жыл бұрын

Estimation guesstimation used a lot there 😂

@levisvarela3735

Жыл бұрын

what i would do is feed the pump directly and see if it works properly, then if i get fuel pressure, i check the injectors, if that checks, i do a spark test on each plug in order, if that check, then it could a valve issue

I was thinking "you removed the starter relay!" a second before your guy said "you removed the starter relay". I love these videos.

@jameshedrick605

Жыл бұрын

I was thinking the same thing

@61rampy65

Жыл бұрын

Ray also had the negative cable off the battery when he had the Wife Unit try to crank the engine over. When you start doing dumb things, it is time to take a break... or burn it to the ground.

The problem is a high resistance connection between the relay output and the pump itself. Not a pump problem it is a wiring to the pump problem. I thought I kept seeing while you were checking wiring voltages an initial near battery voltage and then an immediate low or no voltage reading. This will happen if you have a badly corroded wire that when put under any load the voltage will drop to nothing because the current demand increases. A number of times in your probing this seemed apparent. True the relay seat was messed up but might not bee the only problem - Green Crusties at work!

@chrishouse5753

Жыл бұрын

Might be right - especially with the hot (temperature not voltage) wire. But was watching another jeep fuel issue video and the voltage right at the pump seems to dance around quite a bit but doesn't drop to no voltage but might drop a couple volts. I'll have to go back and watch again I thought it dropped to about 9V?

@mod_incllc3235

Жыл бұрын

Definitely agree. After fixing the wiring then test the fuel pump which could have become victim to voltage issues.

@StrongDreamsWaitHere

Жыл бұрын

It’s likely a straight run from the fuse block to the pump, so the wire itself may physically be bad.

Watching this reminds me of a horse my sister had when we were kids that would walk and run fine in the pasture. As soon as you put a saddle on him and start walking down the road he would start limping, but when you would turn him around to start heading home he would walk fine.

@RunnJake

Жыл бұрын

What an actor lol!

everytime from this day forward im saying "its a jeep thing" with anything anytime i work on a jeep. good diag and keepin up the humor. thanks rainmanray for the content

I enjoyed you telling him to start the Jeep while you had starter relay out. I was waiting for it to register.

@chrishouse5753

Жыл бұрын

Or the first crank with "The Wife Unit" after the negative terminal was disconnected?

@Mouseketier85

Жыл бұрын

Right was thinking is he testing him. But seemed more like he forgot. But new guy caught on quick lol

I know ive said this before. You need to wrap the Intake fuel rails with Insulation. they get hot and cause the fuel to expand and not allow the injectors to get fuel into the motor. This is a Known common problem on the 4.0L Jeeps.

@mod_incllc3235

Жыл бұрын

YES! I remember seeing this a while back!

I'm only 8:12 in, but wanted to comment, that this happened to me and it turned out to be the fuel pump, once it got hot it started doing exactly what was happening here.

@stevewhiting556

Жыл бұрын

I’d have started with a pump. I’d probably have also run a new power line from the box to the pump. You’ll have more time diagnosing and driving and rinsing and repeating than just throwing the parts cannon at it. Jeep parts are cheap and usually fairly easy to replace. I’d also remove the fuel line from the rail and blow air back through the line while you have everything disconnected. Of course, this is a project Jeep so I’d probably have already replaced the almost 30 year old fuel lines

There’s a short on the wire from the fuse block to pump. Probably caused the connector to get hot enough to melt the fuse block itself which is why the connector won’t stay in its position anymore.

As others have said the wire getting HOT is an indication. It could be either a Positive OR Ground issue. My quick diag would be to use an AC extension cord and run pos and neg directly from the battery to the pump. I love using AC extension cords for long run testing. Im not sure the backfiring is only fuel related. I would also hook a direct ground from the neg battery to the block and chassis. You mentioned the ground coming from the distributer so maybe thats a clue as well. I cant wait for the update. OH, take your phone next time too. :)

It looks to me like you have lower voltage at the pump so maybe you have a wiring issue between the relay and the pump somewhere?

Diagnostic episodes are my favorite episodes. I hope you have a part 2 of this. I got to know what it ends up being.

@tterag

Жыл бұрын

Same here. Enjoyed this one.

Ray, with all the backfiring and popping out the exhaust, the problem is in the ignition. While there certainly were fuel issues, what you are experiencing is a bad control module. I ran into the exact same issue with a Chevy a few years ago. I chased fuel problems for about a year until it dawned on me that it was backfiring under a load. In my case, the ignition module...which has a variable dwell...was not functioning correctly and the dwell became "fixed" and was not adjusting as it should have been. Anyway, I would put in a new ignition module and see if that cures the problem.

If there is a screen at the fuel intake in the tank (usually on the in tank fuel pump) make sure it isn't so fine that it plugs easily. We had a big issue with that on the last year of the Ford Contour and Mercury Cougar. The only cure was to leave it off. Check the tank for contamination for such things as loose paper or a plastic bag that can get sucked to the screen then fall off when less flow is needed. Make sure the tank vents. See if the problem goes away with the cap off. Those are some things I encountered.

@jamesjohnson8824

Жыл бұрын

Ray is following a tried and true method as he always does. That's fix what you find and go from there.

Attention Rainman! The horn button needs immediate attention. Thanks for all the great videos!

@chdst

Жыл бұрын

OH THE HUGE MANATEE I didn't even notice and now it can't be unseen.

@captainchaos3174

Жыл бұрын

And the gear lever knob as well... 😮

@dotar9586

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad someone else noticed that.

@chrishouse5753

Жыл бұрын

@@captainchaos3174 After so many videos where Ray corrects the Oil Cap to make sure the writing is facing the correct way surprised he can be in the Jeep with the knob turned sideways! LOL

could be a wiring issue. with it cutting out with movement. after all, its a jeep and seen wetness and could have hidden green crusties. nothing is boring about diagnosing strange thing like this. definitely enjoy these vids where thinking outside the box is mandatory. thanks, ray.

@mjb12141963

Жыл бұрын

Makes it that much sweeter when you do figure it out.

@MrErikii

Жыл бұрын

i think you got it right. if the wire is getting hot, then it will melt the plastic, and the the connecktor wil go down.

@Chairman750

Жыл бұрын

Hey Ted. I think you are right on the money with the wiring. With that green wire getting hot, I am willing to bet either the wire has picked up resistance do to corrosion or it's getting hot because it is intermittently touching ground.

One of the big advantages of experience. Different problems have different symptoms. I had an M880 (60's dodge 4x4) that died when you hit the throttle, idled just fine. Plugged fuel filter. While waiting for a new filter, flushed it by putting it in backwards. The liquid that came out looked like red mud.

I LOVE that you showed the struggle! I teach math and break (I mean fix) things in my spare time. One of the best things you can do as a teacher is model the struggle! Thank you SO much for the way you verbalize your thought process and for posting a video that may seem like a failure to some, but was actually a HUGE success!

Love watching you diagnose things, Ray you are a wizard 🇨🇦

Happy Sunday Ray. Half way onto a million subscribers. 🚀👨🏻‍⚕️

this was one of my favorite episodes yet and i have watched most of your uploads,, this reminds me of my father in his shop working on engines before those scan tools became a thing. troubleshooting and process of elimination fixing things. my father retired when computers became popular, he wasn't interested in fixing " rolling computers"

Congratulations on the 500,000 subscribers great job keep up the good work 🎉

Ray, those spade lug terminals have a little spring tab that gets bent, and then lose their grip on the housing they can be pushed out. Should be able to bend it back out, unless it’s broken off, which can happen too. It didn’t look corroded, from the video, so it might be salvageable.

@TXCherokee

Жыл бұрын

Correct. The little sharp tab on connectors got push back. Take ultra tiny flat screwdriver and bend it back out

@gwg352

Жыл бұрын

Unless FBx housing melted from heat & tab no longer engages.

@ThePurvey

Жыл бұрын

I like to use a dentist's pick. I pulled the PDU from a yj (I did feel bad for cutting the heart out of a poor smashed yj) and repinned the whole thing into a be a PDU for my second battery to power the rest of my 96 xj. Credit Bleeping jeep and very old video. Also did a switch panel with 5 factory xj fog lamp switches to control it. That took years to track down. 2 of the relays do my dual stock electric fan set up.

@helenault7452

Жыл бұрын

That relay terminal in the fuse block looked like the kind that's retained by a plastic tab in the socket; there may be no good repair short of getting a weatherproof external relay housing and moving the fuel pump relay into it. Chrysler made a good one for a warranty campaign on a bunch of vehicles about a decade back when they made the dumb move of soldering the fuel pump relay onto the PC board in the guts of the fuse panel. The part number for the relay kit is CSZDV621AA and there's a Mopar parts overstock outfit up in Lakeland that has a bunch of them left, at $16 per kit plus shipping.

I am watching the jeep thing. My brother around 1980 bought a 74 Chevy originally from Florida. Would do what you are experiencing. Turned out there was over five gallons of sand in the gas tank. The filter sock in the tank would clog up and you let it sit and getting in and out of car caused the sand to drop down off the in tank sock filter and it would run fine.

@michaelpressman7203

Жыл бұрын

I would check the fuel line and pump for dirt in it makes sense what you're saying have a great day

This is great bro, love watching your videos

Congratulations on 500K !!

I keep thinking it's thermal related because it craps out once it's at op temp. I always look at the ignition, but since the fuel pressure is gooched, and the last minute of the video shows no improvement in pressure when fed direct, it has to be the motor in the pump taking a dive once it's heats up. That's just my guess but I'm sure you nailed it either way with that last discovery. Pump gets hot and fails.

Hi Ray, May I make a suggestion, I think some of your problem, may be, its not fuel pressure, but flow , rust or something else in the tank to engine supply pipe. Contamination move forward and back with demand. Disconnect pipe at each end, and blow through with compressed air. Just a idea . Stay well stay safe.

Ray in my humble opinion the problem lies in your catalytic converter. My sisters dodge had huge power loss after brief warmup turned out to be a catalytic converter.. Good luck brother!!

These are the types of videos that I really like. Love watching Rays troubleshooting skills. Can't wait to see the finish. I had a relay for a fuel pump, that for 3 years, would randomly overheat and open. After a few minutes it would cool and work fine for months at a time, and then out of blue fail. It's was so mentally stressing. Especially after a fuel pump, two fuel filters, new fuel line, and new fuel rail.

@bigfootemobileauto9734

6 ай бұрын

Ouch That's a lot of Cannon parts!

Had a similar issue on an old mercury. Fairly new vehicle at the time. Pickup filter sock in the tank would clog up with shavings when you drove it long distance and die. Would not restart. After it sat for a couple of hours Would work fine. Short trips where OK. Had it at the dealer several times until an old mechanic at the Ford dealer pulled the tank, cleaned it out and thru the sock away. Drove it for another 250k without issues.

@ChrisTheBmxGuy

Жыл бұрын

Yep this is what i thought as well

Keep your parts delivery guys happy✌️

Thankyou for your real life experiences, it's good to know it's not only me that has these days, and customers don't have a clue how much you have to go through sometimes..

Good morning from me, nearly 3am and can't sleep.... Work in 4 hours...great. And don't worry Ray I've been there with a problem that took me and others 3 days to solve and we're on the clock. But when you find out what it is.... that's the best moment ever. For me it was two screened cables that had been repaired so bad the inner cores shorted to ground. Cables replaced, sorted.

Had same problem with my XJ. Would Idle fine with low fuel pressure but cut out under load. Fuel pump was overheating under load.

@TheFrenchPug

Жыл бұрын

Was it a bad fuel pump?

Great video Ray! I purchased a car where someone had changed the fuel pump. They did not change the assembly only the pump. They did not properly connect the pump to the line on the assembly in the tank. The hose clamp they installed was below the barb. It could not build pressure because it was leaking inside the tank. Yes, I was getting misfires. Replaced the assembly and the car now runs great!

Congratulations on 500,000 subs.

First class diagnostic process Ray

Glad you got additional help. Nice to have him handy to help you diagnose!

I enjoy watching you doing root tree analysis's on vehicles Ray. I have always like doing them on almost every problem because I'm a detailed oriented person myself.

Cool! I have a set of the same parking breaks!

"Scheisse, das ist nicht gut!" Nearly spilled my wine... very funny when you're cursing in german...

An absolute master class in diagnosis. Outstanding!!!!!!

A great video Ray! You made me realize "It is not just me" that the attempted fix of my jeep does similar things. Carry On Brother. I love my 3 Jeeps but they do drive me crazy sometimes.

Ray, you could bypass the fuel system in the Jeep for a jerrycan with an external electrical fuelpump for a quick troubleshoot. Wires (positive side shunt) from the relay to the pump getting warm could also be indication of a dying/resistive coil from the fuel pump.

i totally ​agree with ​ @Steady Toker "YOU ALWAYS SAY" dont assume the job is done right when some one else have done.... if the tank not too full recheck the pump for proper install....

I had a 79 Lincoln Continental that did the exact same thing. It turned out to be a part in the distributor cap that advanced or retarded the timing automatically. It was the electronic equivalent to vacuum advance, if I remember correctly. The car stared and ran absolutely fine when cold, but after about an hour and the part got hot enough, it would fail and cause timing issues. Very much like what your Jeep is doing.

@whisperingmoments8731

Жыл бұрын

I had a Pontiac ignition module to do the same thing. After it got hot would backfire and stall out. Took me 4 modules to finally find one that was good

@drrobert2120

Жыл бұрын

An old test to check ignition module is to hook dwell meter to ignition lead . dwell should remain constant if you increase throttle and dwell changes.. module is bad...

@jsh6952

Жыл бұрын

​@Dr Robert Ray doesn't have the old school ignition testing stuff.

@drrobert2120

Жыл бұрын

I know..but back then it was a surefire way of pass or fail diagnostic.

@scannerlanier471

Жыл бұрын

my 84 nissan was exactly the opposite. Would stall when cold primarily, pour a little gas down the carb and started right back up and generally kept running. Very intermittent, I feel your pain Ray. I tried everything. Never did figure it out. Always drove with a gas can in the bed, just in case. Carb had a heater element in it. Suspected that was the issue, was planning to replace carb but sold it before I did.

wow, never thought id see this same issue, i had the same problem in my 93 cherokee Years ago, did it to me on the other side of town, ended up letting it cool and was able to get home. Turns out was a failing pump, only ever happened when i had around 1/4 or under of a tank of fuel. went through the issue 1 other time within a year of replacing it, just ordered a Quantum Fuel pump and been going strong for 3 years.

@ivanolsen7966

Жыл бұрын

try to NEVER run a fuel tank down under a 1/4 ..... as the fuel pumps gets hot ( the fuel keeps it cool ... this lengthens the life of the fuel pump )..... this goes for all cars

Thanks for posting and showing everyone can run out of patience and need to troubleshoot again later.

Love to watch you diagnose a problem. Amazing process and a great job finding that bad fusebox connection. Your problem reminded me of one I had long ago that ended up being a good sized chunk of rust floating around in the tank (days of mechanical pumps and external fuel filters). Whenever gas got low enough and the right sloshing about and it would end up blocking fuel flow.

@bigfootemobileauto9734

6 ай бұрын

That was one of my original questions was what the tank might have causing fuel volume issues!

Love the investigation into this jeep ,keep up the great content ray!

So, you need a fuel pressure gauge that you can observe under load (one with a long enough hose that you can temporarily tape to the windshield so you can see it while you are driving it) - your gauge is fine but you need a longer hose. Then you can observe it under load.

@mauriceireland5477

Жыл бұрын

Ray has a perfectly good light and camera set up to set it up under the hood....and how cool would that footage be for US?????

thankyou for the upload Ray,,this is certainly a head scratcher,but youll get there,,and nothing you ever post is boring far from it,have yourself a good week, 👍💪

You'll find problem. Keep up the GREAT WORK Ray!!😊

I have complete confidence that Ray will figure it out.

I love the deep dive diag videos and learn a lot from you , I am not a mechanic but like to do my own work on my cars/trucks .I need one of those master kits used in this video lol.✌️✌️

I was a founding member of the Atlanta four wheel drive club in 1971. I miss those days.

This is not boring, Ray. The diags are the best

30 year old rig, suspect crud like rust flakes in the fuel tank blocking the pick up screen. Had a couple Datsun Z’s with that issue. it’d work fine until you called for more gas at higher power settings, then it’d die.

I see you have the money briefcase with you. Awesome.

@RainmanRaysRepairs

Жыл бұрын

It’s my stuff, ws headed home

@BruceCoggins

Жыл бұрын

@@RainmanRaysRepairs , Ray, with all the backfiring and popping out the exhaust, the problem is in the ignition. While there certainly were fuel issues, what you are experiencing is a bad control module. I ran into the exact same issue with a Chevy a few years ago. I chased fuel problems for about a year until it dawned on me that it was backfiring under a load. In my case, the ignition module...which has a variable dwell...was not functioning correctly and the dwell became "fixed" and was not adjusting as it should have been. Anyway, I would put in a new ignition module and see if that cures the problem.

Congratulations Raymond on hitting the 500 Thousand Subscriber's mark Brother awesome work as always @Rainman Ray's Repairs

Glad to see the shop is doing great man

I think you may have solved the problem at the end of at least a way to solve it. Two things have occurred to me. Is there a floating membrane or piece of plastic in the tank that is wrapping itself around the fuel pickup . Or if there is a piece of hose that's not gas rated in the line it could be collapsing after a short time.

@nevkirkham7657

Жыл бұрын

While of no help to you Ray, I agree with Ronald. It is great to see real mechanics fault find an issue and not a wizz kid plugging into a computer to tell him what is broken and what needs to be done to fix it.

@conkeeper

Жыл бұрын

Had a similar problem where the hose inside the fuel tank deteriorated to where it was sucking air if the fuel level got below where the hole in the hose was. Not sure what the fuel pump design is on the jeep but the symptom was exactly the same.

@williamjeffers3241

Жыл бұрын

Check for debris in tank clogging screen. Falls away when not running.

You were only getting 7 volts to the pump when you checked. I'm willing to bet you need to run a new power wire to the pump to see if that helps.

yep the Jeep Wave is still a thing. always a treat watching the things you find.

You forgot to do the most important upgrade: setting it on fire🔥! Or in other words, make the internal combustion engine an external combustion engine! An extra “inspection port” in the engine block ought to help, plus a hot engine and a leaky fuel line. Also, don’t forget the “smoke screen” and “oil slick” mods; in no time, you’ll (sort of) be able to do stunts just like on Knight Rider! 😅

@coreybabcock2023

Жыл бұрын

Jeeps suck ass

@VashthStampeede

Жыл бұрын

Why not? Paul Danner set his on fire at the convenience store. Remember Eric's closing line at the end of each video.

Hint: while fuse box apart, put (fuel pump) relay back in, then jam the connector thingy back on from the underside of the fuse box, making sure it has a tight connection. Then pack with 5-minute epoxy to keep the wire bit in there. Let set for at least an hour, then try continuing-of-Jeep-diagnostic procedure! 😊

@Jmg831

Жыл бұрын

Great advice! Hopefully he sees this

@pcspecialistpdx

Жыл бұрын

probably not necessary, he just needs to bend the tab that engages the housing. If that doesn't work, then proceed to your suggestion.

@nevkirkham7657

Жыл бұрын

@@pcspecialistpdx If tab is even there. Had something similar where corrosion assisted in the tab breaking off. I cut off the old connecter and added a new one.

The last time I had this happen, it was the fuel pump. Pretty much identical symptoms. That one was on a late model Nissan van that didn't have a pressure test port. The telltale on it was that when the stumbles started, the O2 percentage went way high, indicating a super-lean mixture. But you already know the pump's part of the problem. What you need to check next is whether the tank is full of rustycrap from the time this Jeep has spent parked and not running. The inlet sock may be getting plugged up with sludge and particles, choking off the flow and taking out the pressure. Even with a plastic tank, dead fuel sludge and crusty flakes from the few metal parts of the pump and sending unit assembly can still add up to a dirty sock on the pump. By the way, if you can't get that relay terminal to snap back in, Mopar part CSZDV622AA is a kit with a relay, a short harness, and a weatherproof bracket; it was made for a warranty campaign to fix a goof on the fuseboxes of a bunch of 2008-2012 (or so) vehicles that had their fuel pump relays soldered to a PC board in the guts of the fuse panel. (Dumb idea.) There's a Mopar parts overstock place in Lakeland that has a bunch of them left at $16 each plus shipping. I grabbed a couple of extras. [Edit: Somebody at Chrysler apparently got hissy about those campaign parts being sold on the Net, but I still know of a source, just not as inexpensive.]

@mod_incllc3235

Жыл бұрын

Good possibility!

@drrobert2120

Жыл бұрын

Excellent! I thought the same about gas tank .If you find crud there may have contaminated filter and the line it self

@helenault7452

Жыл бұрын

@@drrobert2120 I also had a Dodge van display similar symptoms when some damp fuel caused corrosion inside the fuel rails; the tiny flakes of rust would jam together in the injectors' inlet screens and choke off the flow, making it run progressively worse, but they'd loosen up enough when it was shut down to allow a lather-rinse-repeat cycle. The rails were out of production, so I ended up salvaging them via a soak in rust remover solution. It ran for another 100K before the windshield frame rotted out.

I had a little Citroen many moons ago with exatley the same symptoms, popping, power loss, etc. Even the local mechanic struggled with it. We ended up doing the parts cannon, with the pump, and it fixed the problem! (this version had a pump on top of the engine, not in the tank)

Had similar problems with my saab 900 turbo. Worked great with no misfires when no load was on the engine, when i put it in gear, and drove, especially on low rpm it miss fired badly and almost stalled just like the jeep. The fix was unlikely but kinda easy. Just like you i suspected fuel delivery but it was a dead end. SO i had an ignition coil laying around so i swapped it out and it ran much better. After some spark plug gap adjustment and a better used original ignition coil the car is running fine now. cant hurt to try especially if you have and old ignition coil laying around.

Well, you know you are SENDING power to the fuel pump, but unless you attach a voltmeter at the pump you don't know the power is getting there consistently. There could be an issue un the wiring between the fuse panel and te pump. This may explain the multiple fuel pumps. Could be worth a voltage drop test on the wiring. Pump load should be around 10A so enough for a test.

What SMA Eric O do? Put a clamp on ammeter on the fuel pump power wire and watch the current draw when pump is running. It should be a fairly steady current draw of a few amps. If it is jumping around it could be bad wiring or probably the pump. To rule out the wiring, disconnect the fuel pump connector and connect a 4 amp test light( head light bulb) to pump feed pins with ignition in on position. This will give a constant load to the circuit. Measure the voltage at the light. Should be close to 12volts. If not , check for a voltage drop( more than 0.5 volts) from battery positive to the positive side at the connector and same for the battery negative to the negative side if the connector to narrow down which side is the problem . Wiggling wiring will show if there is a loose or bad connection. The ammeter current will fluctuate and the test lamp will fluctuate too. If all the wiring is solid then it a bad pump. Always check powers and grounds.

This video was not boring at all...finding other problems along the way though they don't fix the primary issue is a plus. As for the relay and having taken it out of the mess and run a wire straight to the pump and still doing it...crusties between engine and wire end at the rear or the pump isn't good. Either way, you took a break at a good spot. Hopefully after lunch and time away from that sucker you can get another plan of attack. Thanks as always for the great content Ray.

Try running a hot wire from the battery back to the fuel pump so you can eliminate the wire in the harness

@TheFrenchPug

Жыл бұрын

I like it!!!

I personally think the fuel line has a partial block in it or getting air in it from somewhere. I had a old jeep which was getting air intake from the fuel pump…especially when hot. Had massive issues running and restarting

Hiya Ray, I had to laugh with a big smile on my face when u called it an angry Jeep pmsl. Excellent Video job good job so please keep them coming GL&HF coming from Dulwich England England(✌peace✌)

Congrats on 500000 subscribers. Good for you and yours.

I'd bypass the wires going all the way down to the pump and run a long jumper down to that fuel pump connector. Could be a damaged or bad spliced wire somewhere in there especially with getting that voltage drop at the fuel pump connector.

So, when you were probing at the fuel pump connections at the rear, you were getting 7 volts, but at the panel 12.5. Wouldn't that indicate a potentially broken wire?

@northpoint1039

Жыл бұрын

Or intermittent grounding was my thinking. My clue was when he grabbed the wire to the fuel pump and commented that it was hot to the touch.

@ryanedwardson6541

Жыл бұрын

@Richard Craniumdefinitely a fair point and definitely needs to recheck at the rear. I've chased similar issues before, sometimes just walking away for a bit is the best course.

I watched these in reverse order and got to watch the diagnostic process knowing that the fuel tank was FUBAR. Your comments were spot on about it acting like it's running our of fuel and smelling fuel, knowing the tanks filter was clogged from debris in the fuel while poor quality previous repairs created the leaking fuel smell. Instead of it being some esoteric electrical issue, it was a much more basic cause. Occam's razor.

Check the grounds at the multi connector stud by the oil dipstick. Or it could be the fuel pump ballast resistor acting up when it gets hot. There could be corrosion in the wire going from the relay to the pump. Can you run a wire from the battery with a inline fuse to the fuel pump to eliminate a corroded wire.

Project Jeep is back. This going to be a good video. Ray: "Lets roll the window down." Jeep: Unzip plastic window. It's a Jeep thing.

@joevk6274

Жыл бұрын

Also Ray: I hate this Jeep. 😄

Congratulations on 500,000 subscribers ! Also backfiring always sucks....

Me screaming this entire video, the pump is toast...😂 😅

This video reminds me of my life. I can handle events with a cheery attitude when I have the time to sort my thoughts. But the shit that breaks or needs attention first is never the thing you are currently prepared for or thinking about, and that is so frustrating.

As painful as it was to watch this video it was still good educational content. Rainman becoming a great KZread Influencer 🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧

Yes we still wave😊got to if you are a proud jeep owner. It's always exciting to see another jeep. It's a jeep thing!!!...

Yo Ray, you mentioned a heap of corrosion in the fuse box. Its possible for that corrosion to travel down the wire internally, both increasing the internal resistance of the wire, and reducing the amperage the wire can carry to the fuel pump. This could be the case and would explain why that wire was super hot when you touched it at one point. Less Amperage = fuel pump not operating at capacity = less volume of fuel being delivered. As resistance also increases with temperature, this would explain why the symptoms arent present when the car hasnt been operating for a while. The wire can carry enough amperage to adequately operate the fuel pump when cool, but doing so heats it up, and it kind of becomes a self feeding loop at that point. More resistance = more heat = more resistance etc etc until it cant even back out of a driveway. Try bypassing that wire completely and running another power source back to the pump for testing. If this is not the case, I would put money on the new pump being a dud from the factory, but the heat of that wire is a bit of a smoking gun for me.

@charleskadletc2431

Жыл бұрын

I agree with Harley. And try the lead to the fuel tank?

@microjet9563

Жыл бұрын

I also agree with Harley, The wire getting hot and the lack of appropriate volts at the fuel pump and the fact that you eliminated the fuse box as the issue already all suggest to me that the wiring itself to the fuel pump is playing a part here. This is a 95 jeep so I assume the wiring is still original since the coloring appears to still match the diagram. If there is any damage to the wire it could be causing the internal resistance condition that Harley talks about. Try Harley's suggestion with replacing the wire? Maybe get it to the point where it is happening again before doing that for more easy A / B testing.

@cliffbraun3850

Жыл бұрын

Maybe a bad ground at the pump?

You said the wire got hot. I’m guessing that’s why the connector fell out of the fuse block. I’d examine the cable and connector as it might be corroded away or badly crimped which is causing high resistance, low voltage at pump and heat.

Great work Ray old-school macanic work no computer all macanic.

I had the same problem with a customers jeep just like that one.n it turned out to be the pump pulling to many amps . N it burnt the wire off the same one ur on in the box..i put new end on n new pump .no more issues. Ur on the right track Ray.

I'm impressed with your diagnostic skills Ray. Too many techs would just start throwing parts at the problem instead of working through to find the real issue. Like others below, I think the hot wire is an important clue. Repairing Jeeps are a bit like whack-a-mole. Fix one problem and another pops up. Also, we should hear the Wife Unit call out "Got your phone?" now before every test drive. ;-)

That Jeep badge being sideways on steering wheel made the Jeep God's angry!😅

It’s not boring at all. It’s a very interesting from one technician to another to see a technician figure out the issue. It’s great to see somebody actually figure it out instead of being lazy and or guessing and doing the whole parts Canon thing