The new A7 II actually has in-body image stabilization that works with old manual lenses too! It doesn't have as nice of a sensor as the A7s does (it's actually the same as the original A7 still apparently) but having image stabilization with old manual lenses is a pretty awesome feature.

@merihim666

5 жыл бұрын

how to switch on image stabilization in a7ii?

@archimedespalimpsest1697

5 жыл бұрын

@@merihim666 In a7Rii you go to menu 1-8, choose "On" for "SteadyShot", and right below, in "SteadyShot Settings" you dial in the focal length of your lens (if you use some basic adapter that does not transmit any info about the lens to the camera). You can program a custom button to take you directly to the focal length selection.

@70mjc

4 жыл бұрын

octagonPerfectionist A7ii has a better sensor..... The A7S is for video/ low light....

Nice vid, Ted, and posted on my birthday, too. Thanks! Your reasons are exactly why I recently bought an A7II: I wanted the flexibility to shoot ALL my lenses, and on a reasonably-sized platform. I have to say, though, that focus peaking has let me down a number of times. Often enough that I only rely on focus magnification to really nail focus. Of course that's much slower -- good thing I am a "slow photography" guy, so it's not much of a problem. I've been posting some of my experimentation with my Leica and Minolta glass, and have been having a great time learning this way of working. Thanks again!

Wow, can't believe you said "... it's harder and harder to go back to using a DSLR". This is not the Ted I remember five years ago. Welcome to the mirrorless club Ted. ;)

@theartofphotography

9 жыл бұрын

cylurian hey anything can happen ;-)

@1994FishFreak

9 жыл бұрын

Personally just joined the club, suddenly all of my 35mm film camera lenses can be used effectively in a lot of scenarios. Plus how fun is it to spend £4 on a Helios 44-2 and £9 on a dumb adapter and get some pretty sweet and fun glass for the price of a dominos pizza!

@sceamson

7 жыл бұрын

cylurian and I was thinking, I am alone who is inclined toward mirrorless after abandoning DSLRs.

@RunNGunPhoto

7 жыл бұрын

I remember when 15 years ago it was a strange blue tint/blue noise that Sony was known for.

@loogatdisdood

7 жыл бұрын

sounds like user error

I just started using my dad's GH2 with his old manual 50mm and I enjoyed using it so much! I found it much more convenient walking with it on the street than my DSLR, and it was a lot less distracting for me. Anyway, great video!

I love my A7, adapting manual lenses and being able to actually use them effectively has opened up a whole new side of the "art of photography" I'll never look back.

@theartofphotography

9 жыл бұрын

Hamish Batten I agree - I'd used peaking in video before, but once I started using it for stills it sped things WAY up. It seems missing on DSLR cameras to me now.

@Claymish

9 жыл бұрын

The Art of Photography I find I can focus even faster than most auto focus systems when I get used to them. For street photography its invaluable. Great videos. Thanks.

@MrHada007

4 жыл бұрын

Hamish Batten bro I was looking for 30 or 35mm 1.4 or less vintage lenses for Sony a7 please recommend me

Wow thanks for making this video, Ted! This confirms my direction of thought regarding mirrorless cameras. I've been shooting film exclusively since I first started photography as a hobby, and always felt unimpressed by modern day dslrs. Why buy a thousands of dollars worth of digital lenses when I love focusing manual anyway? This is such great news because now I know I can continue investing further in old 35mm lenses while I wait for Fuji to finally release a full frame mirrorless!

one important setting that you need to turn on if you are using old manual lenses is to turn on "allow shutter/exposure without lens attached" or similar setting as the camera won't know you have a lens attached when using an old lens without contacts. I'm glad I can use my old Canon FD lenses with my Sony a6000.

Exactly what I found using the sony a7, just revived all my old lenses, even from my father and granfather stock, and with practice manual focus is very fast. great video just what I say to a lot of people but you put it in a well done video.. I guess the next series of videos should be what are really good old lenses as alternatives of the modern ones.

Thanks for a great introduction Ted! I've just ordered an adapter for my Lumix G7 and I was already looking forward to using all of my Canon FD lenses but I am even more hyped now. :)

Very nice overview.

I own a Nikkor 85mm F2 and it's one of my favourite lenses ever.

@lindadee2053

6 жыл бұрын

Henry Jones Jr. I feel the same way about my 40 year old Nikkor 105mm f/2.5. I will never part with that exquisite lens.

Hey man, just wanted to say I love your videos. Very intelligent presentation, full of relevant content, and minimal "babble" . Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

My Canon A-1 Died a little while ago. Got an FD - M4/3rds Adapter for my Olympus E-P2. Givven my old lenses a new life, I love using my Vivitar f/5.6 300mm on that thing.

I am a total novice and I have appreciated your video and thank you for the simplistic tutoring of adapting old lenses to a modern body. I have a Canon T70 and two fabulous (looking) lenses, FD 50mm 1:1.8 and a super OZECK II Auto Zoom MC 1: 3.5 - 4.5 f=35 - 150mm. I've had the Camera and the lenses since my youngest daughter was at university where she used it for course work and she is now nearly 40 years old. I've decided to try and adapt the lenses to a modern Canon Body and have some fun.

Thank you for this, been trying to figure out how the f stop numbers work on manual lens. this is a good starting point for me.

Honestly, I've found the focus peaking a bit lacking on occasion, so I've found a workaround. I shoot Raw+JPEG but set the creative style to black and white. I tend to find focus easier this way than with red markings messing with how the photo looks. One thing I do love about using manual focus lenses, at least legacy ones, is that they're not focus by wire, which isn't as intuitive as old focus rings.

Thank you so much, I'm new photography and your explanation of peaking level was helpful. Keep up the great content.

I’ve been doing this for a long time using FD lenses and old Minolta lenses And there’s just something so satisfying about using it

Excellent video, really useful info, thanks Ted!

Thanks for your awesome video. I just bought this Sony A7 today for a incredibly low price and with in store warrenty. Last SLR was film in 1985. Buying a lens adapter to use my 4 analogue 35 mm lens. Went Pro for a great deal price.

I’ve been doing this for a while and bought three adapters to use different kinds of lenses for my camera and it’s great

Two additional important things that should be mentioned about manual cameras: If your camera has in-body stabilization (like the Olympus OM-D series), then you need to go into the settings menu and manually enter the focal length of the lens in question. Stabilization does not work properly unless it knows the focal length. When using native lenses, the focal length is set automatically by the electronic connection with the lens, so you never have to fuss with it, but when using manual lenses you need to enter it every time you swap in a lens. And less critically, and also more widely known, is the ability to zoom in to assist with manual focusing. This is applicable to all lenses of course, but if you only ever use autofocus you might not know about it.

@Tocy777isback0414

Жыл бұрын

Thank you! This is actually a tip I never heard mentioned before, will try it out.

It would be lovely if you do another one of these but with Fuji X. It’s been so fun to get to collect old lenses. I finally use an old Canon rangefinder lens my dad gave me. Focus peaking makes it so usable (and fun).

very nice ! thanks for the clear explanation, the peaking did it for me as the manual focus is indeed a hassle on these smaller ev cams ! I now use some nice nikon lenses and a nice very compact tokina zoom on my a5100 travel kit

Nice video Ted. I would like to add that "focus peaking" can also be a great way to focus manually in low light conditions (where auto-focus is not that great) using the "standard camera lens" . For my part, I use an Olympus camera that has "in camera stabilization" which eliminates the need for buying expensive camera lens that have built-in camera stabilization and should do certainly better using old SLR camera lens. That said, I do not own any of these old SLR lenses and am looking forward to buying them used at bargain prices. Looking forward to other videos of this genre.

@theartofphotography

9 жыл бұрын

Rejean Nantel yeah - in camera stabilization is a godsend if you've got it. Sony are starting to do that as well, though not in the camera I've got.

Great video. Using a canon FD 50mm 1.8 on my Sony A6000. Its amazing. Lens only cost me £10. This camera is so versatile. I managed to figure all this out through trial and error, but your video is exactly what people need to see. Also if you assign Focus assist to the custom button 1, then you can nail that focus every time.

Thank you for the focus peeking demo, there may yet be hope for my old M42 glass. The manual focus assist on my D7000 is reasonable but that seems better.

Brilliant stuff. I use many MF vintage lenses on my Fuji X-M1 (and Canon DSLR) to great effect. Fuji's "peak" system highlights the 'in focus' areas by making them sparkle, I like the look of the colour system that Sony use here. Favourite lenses for me are the SMC Takumar 50mm F1.4 and the Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm F3.5 in M42 mount and a couple of great little rangefinder lenses with M39 mount including the Jupiter 8 (50mm F2). I think it's worth mentioning that M42 and other 35mm SLR mount adapters add about 27mm of 'stand off' from the camera whereas M39 and Leica bayonet mount rangefinder adapters only add about 11mm on the mirrorless system.

I try not to use peaking as in many situations it's very inaccurate. Magnify every time!

@optrader1948

5 жыл бұрын

I too have found magnification better for focusing than peaking.

@sharifsalem

5 жыл бұрын

Agreed, at wide apertures peaking is not accurate enough.

@uncoy

5 жыл бұрын

@@optrader1948 On Fuji X one can have focus peaking working in magnification. In magnification the focus peaking is much more sensitive and accurate. I usually have both enabled. For really precise work it's better not to have focus peaking on at all as focus peaking masks the sharp edges and makes it difficult to find the exact point of focus.

great video :). thanks for creating it! with little thought, I've recently bought I think an old canon FD mount lens and I own a canon crop lens - do you know much about using adapters with old lenses on canon dslrs?

Just made the digital jump. Took a while but mirrorless made me bite. Thank you for such an informative vid Ted. I use the FD 50 f1.4 on my a6000 and am loving it. Way different depth of feild, but same predictable excellence. Looking forward to getting a fullframe cmos.

With Olympus we have IS inside the camera which makes it way easier to shoot these lenses. I only use my old Konica and Nikon film lenses with it!

I want one now...ugh. I'm not going to lie, I kind of like my simple view finder on my D610..no distractions, I got the info I need on the bottom. Great video Ted!

Hey Ted, try hitting the C1 button next to the shutter release and you will find an orange rectangle appears in the viewfinder. Hit it again and it magnifies the image 7.2 times for critical focussing. Hit it a third time and you get 14.4 times. You can move the rectangle around the viewfinder to wherever your critical spot is, just using the rotary encoder on the back of the camera. You can also set the effect to stay on for 2 seconds, 5 seconds or as an on/off setup.

@uncoy

5 жыл бұрын

Way too many clicks. On a Fuji, you just push the back wheel in to zoom in and push again to zoom out. You can turn the wheel to vary the magnification.

@normanskistreet

5 жыл бұрын

@@uncoy 2 clicks instead of one is way too many?! Maybe APS-C sensor is way too small! ;-)

@uncoy

5 жыл бұрын

@@normanskistreet TheThirdMan writes one can move zoom to a custom button as "as an on/off setup". I'd like to know more about that. I'm primarily a Canon shooter so no full frame mirrorless for me until Canon builds a worthwhile mirrorless camera with IBIS and full frame downsampled video rather than tiny crop. Sony is the backup plan (have an A6300 for video as Canon has dropped the ball on 4K video so hard).

@dthorne4602

5 жыл бұрын

On the a7ii, you have control of how you want the preview zoom to work and what buttons or wheel it is assigned to, works as well as any other camera on the market in that regard.

@UncompressedWAVmusic

4 жыл бұрын

@@uncoy How could 2 extra click be too much for you when using manual lenses there is a lot of manual adjustments since a lot of AUTO is gone. An extra click is worth it for a better system overall.

FANTASTIC explanation ! Which wide FD Canon lens you recommend for landscape and which converter not to destroy the Sony bayonet? Thanks!

Just bought an A7 MK II which has built in IS, Can wait to start shooting with a manual lenses.

I really like this video, thank you.

I have an A7r and a Fuji X-T1 and I love shooting manual lenses with both. I mostly use Konica and Leica R glass and get some great results. I really love the 57mm F1.2 and 40mm 1.8 Konica Hexanons, and the 90mm Leica R F2. The focus peaking on the Sony is better but the dual display option on the X-T1 with the overall image & the zoomed in point of focus makes it as enjoyable as the Sony to focus manually.

@theartofphotography

9 жыл бұрын

mavfan1 those are fantastic lenses

Cool video. I'm going to get a Sony a6000 here soon.

Great Video!! Question: Which lens and lens adapter would you recommend for the Sony A6300. Thanks.

And another question more, What adapters did you used for this video? I mean, for the Sony camera that appears there in plane. Thanks again!

Thank you so much!

very interesting stuff, really good review. Still looking around, not going to mention my outdated stuff here yet looking for a genuine upgrade to it. I really want this option of some old lenses still in my possession to be usable.

Thanks for the review! is that red color staying the whole time, or does it go away after a second or so? cause it seems distracting to compose with that bloch all over the frame...

very helpful vid. Have a bunch of Canon FD lenses from times ago. And looking to buy my first digital gear to start the real photography work again. (i have a digital compact camera, but this does not enable the real work.) Nice to see how i could recuperate the glass i have by investing in this sony a7 with adapter. Thanks!

Thanks ted. I recently brought an old pentax lens to use with my sony a6k. I had a little trouble in the beginning, but focus peaking and magnified focus seem to do the trick :)

Thank you for that tip about the "Peaking Level" where it showed RED to the objects that were in focus. This worked on my Sony a5000 perfectly this show is so awesome I learn from every video!

@theartofphotography

9 жыл бұрын

fernandoiscrazy the a5000 is one of the best deals in photography right now. That's a TON of camera for under $500!

@UncompressedWAVmusic

4 жыл бұрын

I use Focus Magnification on Sony A7 and it's awesome. Can even hit it twice for super magnification focusing.

Ted, let me first state that I am an amateur photographer who photographs family and for the enjoyment of saving a slice of time for future generations to look at. As such my observations on the Sony mirrorless cameras are as follows: I bought a Sonly A7Rii for this very reason that you mention. To be able to reuse my old lenses. Almost immediately I realized how difficult it is to change lenses on the Sony mirrorless cameras and not introduce dust bunnies onto the sensor. I absolutely dread changing lenses on this camera. I purchased the 24 to 70 Sony/Zeiss zoom and it stays on the camera 90% of the time. The primary reason I bought this camera is not being realized and with the zoom lens the A7Rii is a beast. What this experience did do was to cause me to reevaluate film. Hasselblad images scanned with my Epson V850 look better than what the Sony A7rii can produce with the Sony lenses. Only with some of the Zeiss lenses (Loxia & ZF.2) does the Sony exceed those scanned Hasselblad photos in overall aesthetics. I have learned how to clean the sensor and remove the spots in post, but sensor dust is a major problem with mirrorless cameras. From this experience I now shoot 70/30 film to digital. Another added benefit of film is that it will likely survive several generations. In most cases I doubt digital data will survive longer than the original creator.

I love mirrorless, I shoot FujiFilm. The reason I love them is in the studio with low lighting or low powered modeling lights. You can turn on/off preview exposure with manual settings. That way you can actually see for composing the shot compared to not having that option on a DSLR. I switched from Nikon and never looked back years ago.

Love the vids Ted. I just miss sample shots. Just 5 shots would be great...

Great video, Ted! I own a Ricoh GXR with leica M mount that has no antialising filter , nice and compact and a pure joy to use with manual lenses , especially old RF M39 glass via simple ring adapter ,but I just wish it was a full frame not 1.5 crop. Anyway, once you get into manual lens world ,there is no way back !

@theartofphotography

9 жыл бұрын

Саботаж That's one of the reasons why full frame is still important to me. Its those wider lenses. Its hard to shoot wide when you've got crop factor to deal with.

Thanks for this video. Part of my reluctance to jump to mirrorless was abandoning all of the wonderful, old Nikon glass I have that I can use on my DSLR. Now that I know I can use them on a mirrorless system, I may have to jump ship. Thanks again!

Check out Tecart LM-EA7 autofocus adapter to your Sony you can atofocus all the old vintage lenses on your Sony

Oh well. I love this video. So many good arguments to buy a Mirrorless System Camera. And also to re use some "good old stuff". Especially my beloved Nikon Micro-Nikkor 1:4/200 mm .... Well, because of your well done argumentation, I will save my money to by myselfe a Sony Alpha 7 II. The built in steadyshot seems to be very helpful. Regards from Germany...

Great video. Does the adapter need glass? I have a Canon 50d and the fotodiox adapter has some glass in it. I removed it and I lost my focus so I put it back.

Time to revisit this...it’s very popular now...many old lens manufacturers are starting up again. I bought a new Leica SL as the SL2 came out for a song. I’m cherry-picking manual lenses for it, Voigtländer 50 F1.2, Zeiss 35 F1.4, Voigtländer 21 F1.8, Voigtländer 75 f 1.8 to start.

Hello , this video has made my mirrorless decision specially the A7s easier, could I know the brand or the link where you bought the adapter? thank you.

Thanks so much for the video! My old Leicaflex lenses may have new life, if I can find the adapter.

Vacationed with an A9 and just a Zeiss Loxia 2/35. It was thoroughly enjoyable.

You can do focus peaking on canon cameras with magic lantern...

My first camera was a Sony NEX3 that I used mostly with a Canon FL 50mm f1.4, now I'm coming full circle and picking up an A7r to use with manual glass :D

Another great video! I've stopped using autofocus altogether a while back. There's an old Planar glued to my camera, which also happens to be a Sony. So I have some tips too! :) Something you said isn't entirely accurate - in-lens stabilization does work if you use an adapter that supports it. I'm using a chinese $50 Canon adapter and happily enjoying the stabilization on my 100mm 2.8L. It's made for hand-held macro, so it'd be pretty useless without it. Also, peaking is super useful but it doesn't really give you enough accuracy when you're working with very shallow depth of field. Focusing an 85mm at f1.4 is next to impossible. Also, in low light situations, where contrast is much higher, peaking, which is based on contrast detection, will give you a lot of false positives. A good workaround is to bind an easy to reach camera button to the magnification function. It seems cumbersome to use at first, but when you get used to it, it's invaluable. I'm able to get pin sharp eyeballs of moving people on a f1.4 aperture. This isn't supposed to replace peaking, but instead to use in situations where peaking shows its limitations. Finally, if you don't want to use Auto-ISO, you'll get a dark screen from closed apertures. It becomes very hard to work with manual flashes. To fix that, just disable the "Live View Display" option. You lose the "exposure WYSIWYG" capabilities and have to guide yourself completely by the meter, but you'll be able to see and focus an image on underexposed settings.

A day or so back I used a 1939 Leitz Elmar on a new Panasonic GX7, quite amazing results. I would not want to risk collapsing the lens though!

Hi, Thank for video and information, what camera and lens did you film this video with ? Thanks,

You can use these manual lenses on any kind of DSLRs if you have the right mount for them. I just bought a Pentacon 135mm f2.8 and a Carl Zeiss Jena 50mm f2.8 lens (for 60 euros) for my Canon 60D and I'm really impressed. They are optimal for video work, where you can use the screen, and its digital zoom option to set the focus properly.

@UncompressedWAVmusic

4 жыл бұрын

That is not true, not any manual on any DSLR however yes on mirrorless.

Thanks very much for this excellent perspective! I think you've swayed me towards a mirrorless camera. The only alternative I could come up with was the Nikon D7200 DSLR, which is a fine camera in its own right. But my particular interest is in high-quality landscapes (near and far) in B&W using colour filters. I also much prefer manual settings, whenever possible/practical. So I naturally gravitate towards the full-frame mirrorless cameras. However, money is somewhat of an object, so I do have to consider budget. Would you have a recommendation for how I might go down this mirrorless path-i.e. a decently priced camera that would suit my needs, as well as lenses that would be up to the challenge without breaking the bank? I realise this is a tall order, but any hints would be greatly appreciated. Love your videos!

@UncompressedWAVmusic

4 жыл бұрын

I just bought a Sony A7 body only the cheapest full frame mirrorless and it takes awesome photos with my 38 year old vintage lenses luckily.

@UncompressedWAVmusic

4 жыл бұрын

Buy the Sony A7 the cheapest full frame.

Can't believe I'm learning this on a 5 year old video!!!

Hi Ted, have you tried the 24mm fd 2.8 and the 35 fd 2.8 on the A7 Range? I'm looking at them for my trip to France so I don't have to take my heavy and bulky tamron 24-70 2.8. Thanks!

Thank you, Ted, for this video! I have used the old Nikon lenses, the same production as you have, often on my Fuji x-pro1. I don't know if it is my eye or not, but, contrary to the new generation of lenses (the Fuji's primes are very detailed and sharp), the old ones have a softer look, to which you have to get used first, but start to love very soon. It would interest me to know your opinion on this, moreover since sharpness of course is a big plus for our modern manufactury standards, which undoubtedly are better than 30 years ago (I saw a demonstration of the Zeiss Otus lenses, well....), but anyway, is there a difference in the quality standard of production between lenses of 1980 and now? What are the differences, and could we say that those differences, although resulting in a less sharp lens (if so) of the old days, still can give a look that appeals, sometimes even more than the digital sharpness our sensors apparently require (and darkroom printed photographs much less)? Just an idea and question that raised in my mind watching your video!

@theartofphotography

9 жыл бұрын

AuthenticSound You're probably right - some old lenses are better than others. In the 35mm film days lenses didn't have the same resolving power because of the format they were designed for (being small film). It totally depends on the lens, but I have noticed that some are definitely sharper than others.

Wait... How did you get from lenses to Squarespace? I once had a Spotmatic, which I loved. Nikon lenses were a bit faster, so I got an FE2 and FM2. They're gone, but I have a black Spotmatic 2 on display. Still love the lenses. Maybe I'll try one on my mirrorless. Only thing, I have a M43 GX8. Nice camera, but small sensor, esp. for 35mm size lenses. So... Decision time.

I am learning something very interesting today . Now I have to see whether instead of the intended purchase of Nikon Z6 I should consider this very strong contender Sony . I am interested in video performance as well.

@nicokremers7150

2 жыл бұрын

You can use old “vintage” lenses on the Nikon z6 as well! This video is much older than the Z6 🙂

Tried your instructions on settings up my A7ii with Leica 35mm f/1.4 lens. I found that if I also set my camera on Aperture priority it allows my camera to choose, a proper, shutter speed. Finally I know how to use my equipment. Thanks.

@conormcdade841

6 жыл бұрын

Juan Alvarez can I do apertures priority with a Pentax me 50mm lense? I’m new and want to get into shooting old lenses on this

@sharifsalem

5 жыл бұрын

Conor Mcdade you can use it with any lens. You’ll set aperture manually and camera detects light coming in and adjusts shutter speed accordingly. You can also set ISO to auto and you only have to worry about focus and framing.

Would there be problems with using old Nikkor lenses on the a6300 since they are made for 35mm full frame, not aps-c? Like extra light messing with the image?

@Bolton115

5 жыл бұрын

Not at all. F2 is always F2.

Interesting enough, but I consider you lucky if you can rely on the focus peaking on an A7S and reasonably large apertures. The zoomed image will prove slower but far more reliable.

@UncompressedWAVmusic

4 жыл бұрын

I use both focus peaking and zoomed image.

you can get focus confirmation on DSLR's too, you have to buy an adapter with a Dandelion chip. Fotodiox (sp?) sell them, I adapt my old Kmount lenses on my crop sensor Canon. I say crop sensor, because the aperture lever can get in the way of the mirror on full frame.

There is also a zoom feature on my canon m50 which helps with focus.

"Not Peking Duck... We're looking at a different kind of peaking." LOL! Good one!

This is why I Have a SonyA7ii , because I can use old amazing Nikon ais lens . It is great to choose what you focus, and how easy It is.

FE2 - what a great camera - I traveled Asia with one 25 yrs ago and am still looking for a digital replacement for it- camera and 3 lenses - done.....ah the good old days...I metered just a line underneath what it said for Fuji slide film - worked just fine....

I absolutely love my a7s, and I only use it for stills.

Thanks to your tips about the Nikon 105 mm I watched a beautiful documentary about Search For "The Afghan Girl" by Steve McCurry

I like peking duck!!lol.. great video Bud!

thanks great video !

Do you find that the peaking is different from lens to another? I find that with my olympus lenses, I Can barely see the peaking dots; however, with others it fills out the whole screen.

can you provide which adaptor u r using of canon FD lenses?

When using a manual lens, will the viewfinder show real time changes to exposure when you adjust a manual aperture ring?

@alexstevensen4292

8 жыл бұрын

+Adam Kreuz Yes when in manual mode and "Live view display: setting effect On" in the menu.

@UncompressedWAVmusic

4 жыл бұрын

With Sony A7 it has EVF so you see on that and the display the effect when you change aperature or any special effect or colour type.

You absolutely can use FD mount lenses on modern EF bodies. There's been an adapter for a long time. At least a decade

Hi Ted. When I shoot my EOS M3 with the auto lens, the iris is wide open (as long as I don't touch the shutter), The changes the screen brightness, the histogram and the light meter by analysing the current input of the sensor, ISO level and the expected aperture and shutter speed. When I searched for 'how to use manual lenses with mirrorless' I expected to find that I have to insert the lens aperture and the camera will adjust the histogram and light meter to the lens's aperture. I can understand now that it is not mater since the histogram will be based on current exposure. is that correct?

Hey man, cool video! What kind of camera + lens did you use to record your video?

@thejangsterestjang

7 жыл бұрын

i think he said in his Sony A5100 video he records with that

@managerhoeks7256

7 жыл бұрын

thanks!

Ted does the Fuji XT 1 and XT 10 do the same thing and are they 'full frame'?

A weird question which might sound stupid but if i have a fully manual lens does it work normally on an electronic adapter?

I have some old FD lenses and an alpha sony camera (alpha mount) and searching a way to use these old lenses on my new camera.I wonder if someone did this and which adapter seems to be good ? on budget

@nwyetiphotography

8 жыл бұрын

I use both Fotasy and Fotodiox manual lens adapters for my Sony a7. I use Sony A mount, Canon EF and Nikon F mounts with these adapters. Ebay sells them a little cheaper than Amazon.

I have a Nikon D3400 been shooting with it for some time now I'm looking to upgrade to the Sony a7 any advice?

Many premium prime lenses narrower than full frame 35mm are great even today. Only wider than full frame prime 24mm lenses have advanced a lot the last decade.

Which brand adaptor you use with the Nikkor 105mm 2.5 ?

Enjoyed your video. Just beginning to use my old lenses on a Sony A7 ii. Isn't there a setting that changes the camera to use of old lenses in the menu. I didn't see you mention it in this video.

@UncompressedWAVmusic

4 жыл бұрын

Not with Sony A7 however you have to do your manual settings and focus and maybe turn off lens IS.

hi can tell me more about the nikon adapter. thanks

It took me a long while to get used to my olympus EP-L1 with my old camera lenses. It got me hooked and now I have reason to buy a 50 dollar SLR lens compared to a 500-1000 dollar lens hah.

hey, short question. Does A7 mark 1 has the peaking option? As well as the a6300 and Fuji X-T20? Maybe you know. I'm trying to decide for one of these for both photography and video purpose and as well as you I love film photography and actually till now I was shooting only on films..

@UncompressedWAVmusic

4 жыл бұрын

Yes it does I bought A7 last month and use it. The A7 has no in body stabilization so it would be good to get a mirrorless with it.

When using non-automatic legacy lenses in the mode you suggest (manual aperture and shutter, auto ISO), the histogram only shows the range of luminance in the scene, and can’t show a shift in exposure because the auto ISO adapts to your aperture and shutter speed to keep the exposure "normal." (The photographer does, however, have creative control over those elements of a photograph controlled by the shutter and the aperture, other than exposure.) To use the exposure settings to shift the exposure (up or down), you must fix all three variables. Only then can the settings result in the histogram’s shift to the right or left. Here are the combinations: Manual shutter/manual aperture/fixed ISO: Complete manual control that allows the photographer to adjust the exposure AND complete creative control. Shutter priority/manual aperture/fixed ISO: A legacy lens won’t function in an auto-aperture mode, so this shooting mode is effectively the same as the mode above. You might as well just shoot in full manual. Manual shutter/manual aperture/auto ISO; Shutter priority/manual aperture/auto ISO; Aperture priority/auto shutter/fixed or auto ISO: These combinations will automatically adjust to give the same exposure, because each has at least one component that will adjust the exposure no matter what the photographer does manually. Note that exposure compensation and bracketing force the camera to under or overexpose, or both, causing a departure from the “normal” exposure even in modes that don’t otherwise permit the photographer to alter the exposure. Remember, when you change an input (like shutter speed) and something else compensates automatically (aperture and/or ISO), the exposure will always be the same. If you want to move the histogram (for instance, to expose to the right - ETTR - as digital photographers are usually taught), you must use a mode of shooting that doesn’t permit the camera to defeat your efforts.