What also helps cleaning out stuff from the oil in the winter: freeze it and then filter it through a coffee filter outside when it's a couple of degrees minus. Then you'll get rid of the last remnants that make the oil cloudy. If you filter it just above where it completely solidifies (somewhere around -12°C it differs from linseed oil to linseed oil, because different seed oils freeze on different temperatures) you can get a super, super clean oil, that won't even get cloudy way below zero.

Super video, I am using Lemcke Flax Seed oil from Fruit and Veg, and wash with water only and freezing repeat 10x. It gives such a clear oil, almost no yellow after time in sun. I want to try the car jack method to press linseed seeds. This is truly Nectar of the Gods. Thanks to Tad Spurgeon

I thought about a cleaner, easier way to separate the oil and as it turns out in late 19th century the linseed oil paint producers used large separating funnels to separate the oil from the cleaning liquid or acid/gum. So then I checked and there are 2-3 liter ones for chemists that you can buy online. I might give that a try. Basically you have a ball of glass at the top, that goes down to a fine point where you have a release valve. Now you can do your shaking/mixing and then just open the valve and let water and mucus flow out until you get clean oil. Thanks to the fine tip you can slow down the drip so you can easily stop when the oil starts flowing cleanly out of the valve. Only problem with this might be, that the valve is not coarse enough to let the sand out, so it's only to filter water/mucus/oil mixture.

@jauld360

Жыл бұрын

That's called a separatory funnel and they are fairly expensive. A cheaper alternative is to collect as much oil as you can with the turkey baster and then to put the last fraction containing oil and water into a bottle with a narrow lid. Add water until the oil layer rises to the narrow top part, collect and add more water. In this manner the waste is reduced.

@W4ldgeist

Жыл бұрын

@@jauld360 The "overspill" solution was also used back in the day in industrial production. I've tried that and I had trouble keeping the added water from disturbing the separated solution. I guess it's easier if you can put in the water from below the contraption.

I starting making my own paint and oil.

I'm so glad you made this video! I just read Tad's instructions and other info and was a bit confused

@W4ldgeist

3 жыл бұрын

I've read a couple of old books from before the 1900s and there really is so much differing approaches to purifying linseed oil. It's crazy. Some say use sulphur acid, some just freeze the oil and filter it below zero, some heat ist explosively to 400°C then quickly cool it to make the oil break etc.pp. so many approaches. One very vocal and kind of aggressive Spanish dude proposed to just put psyllium husk in the oil and then have an air pump for aquariums pump air into the oil, agitating the husk, that supposedly filters out the mucilage. Haven't gotten around to trying that one yet. But it's certainly a lot of fun doing the experiments :D

@katetopps4706

3 жыл бұрын

@@W4ldgeist Yes! Isn't it interesting! I just started 2 quarts of oil in 4 separate experimental batches. I started 2 of linseed oil both prewashed w/ raw apple cider vinegar, one batch I added a tablespoon of silica sand to. They're just now going through their first salt water/sand wash, and there is a marked difference in the 2, which was surprising. Then I've got a batch of walnut oil being prewashed the same way, and another I decided to pre aerate for a few days before doing the Salt/sand method. I've been emailing back and forth with Tad Spurgeon and was surprised at how helpful and responsive he is. He and his website are such an amazing resource! If you want pics/vids of the batches I'm making, let me know 😬 Happy potion making!

@W4ldgeist

3 жыл бұрын

@@katetopps4706 Oh sure! I'd love to hear from your experiments. I haven't bothered Tad with my stuff yet, because I first wanted to find out something new to contribute to his findings. I am checking if the freezing method works at the moment.

@W4ldgeist

3 жыл бұрын

@@MrDamosb Read through your blog post. Just one thing I think you might have gotten wrong. You call the mucilage VOCs. There really should not be any VOCs in linseed oil. VOCs are things that evaporate quickly and are usually found in artificial paints and chemical driers.

@katetopps4706

3 жыл бұрын

@@MrDamosb at what point in the process are you freezing it? I had an interesting result with my first S/S washes linseed...when I transferred it to the pot to cook off the water...there was no water in it! It did not sizzle or pop the way my walnut oil did. I even checked the temp of the oil on medium heat, and it was well above the boiling point of water. Anyhow, I took these oils (both the walnut and the linseed S/S washed, both prewashed in ACV) mixed in calcite, and cooked in the oven for 4+ hours (oven was 500°F, oil measured in at 150°C...weird( anyhow, I now have that oil strained off and in their respective jars.

I'm using large grain Himalayan pink salt in place of the salt and sand. It's working really well.

@inmyopinion2824

Жыл бұрын

Now I'm using a coffee filter to funnel into a shot glass and I can see the pink Himalayan salt on the coffee filter.

Is it possible starting from falxseeds and extractiong only oil with this system? I need a little bit, but I need it pure.

Hi Damian, I’ve just begun the ‘Standard Rinse Cycle,’ after completing an acid prewash using apple cider vinegar and two washes following the Salt & Sand method. I started with an oil from Sweden that’s recommended by Tad. So far everything looks just the same as what I saw in your KZread video. I’m wondering if you have any tips for disposal of waste and cleaning out the mucilage and sand from the jars. I’m figuring since it’s all non-toxic organic material I can just dump it in by plant beds. (I think the salt might even help kill some weeds.) And have you painted with any of your hand-refined oil? Do you notice a big difference? Thanks, Julian

It must be satisfying to be making your own materials like this! Can you please explain the different working properties of the oil as it becomes more oxidized? And also how is sun thickened and stand oil different from that? Thank you!

The website you linked too is down. Also, do you happen to know a source that discusses the various attributes that various pigments add to oil? For instance some help to resist mold and mildew, some make it more durable, some help with UV, etc....do you know of a source of this type info?

Heyo! I’ve also heard that you can do ethanol cleanses so this something you know anything about?

cold pressed linseed oil is also refined? and how long does it take to dry the refined and bleached oil?

Hi there...is purified linseed oil and refined linseed oil the same thing? What about cold press linseed oil?

Wow that's a drawn out process. Using the blender will blend the oil and water effectively, it might also break the carbohydrates into smaller chains though which would leave you with a different oil, probably less viscous, but maybe also with different chemical properties.

What is silica and where to find? Does it melt

can we use any oil like olive oil

Why we can’t use regular unrefined flax oil? Do you use regular natural see beach sand? How much oil did you use in ml I mean

Is there such a thing as shaking any of the mixtures too much?

Does anyone know what happened to Tad Spurgeon’s website? When I try to access it, the browser says the server can’t be found. I cant find his book anywhere either. I literally just heard about the concept of adding chalk to home-refined linseed oil this wednesday. I’m particularly interested in solvent free painting because my bedroom is my workspace, i wont be able to open my windows in the winter, and I have many younger siblings whose brains are still developing and more sensitive to the damaging compounds in paint thinner and liquin. If anyone knows anything please let me know, its much appreciated.

@scagliolist

10 ай бұрын

I found his site years ago and have been using his methods and keeping up with updates. He announced the closure of the site around August of 22. "Living Craft" is his book, I've used it extensively. Incredible resource.

Could this be used on boiled linseed oil? Also I'm wondering what function the sand has in this process.

@confuciuslola

2 жыл бұрын

@@MrDamosb I use it on canvas and paper, but if it's already so viscous I will probably try it with pressed linseed first. Thanks so much for the info, really useful for someone who knows very little about techniques

@scagliolist

10 ай бұрын

No. Boiled linseed oil is treated with drying agents in such a way as to make it unusable for oil painting. I think the drying agents are a source of yellowing over time. I'm no chemist, but I believe through ionization the sand and salt molecules help separate the oil from mucilage.

Can I perform this process to boiled linseed oil from the hardware store? Also what if I don't have access to soft water or rain water at the time I am doing this process?

@DaMoysis

2 жыл бұрын

NO!!! "Boiled Linseed Oil" from the hardware store has absolutely nothing to do with heat processed (prepolymerized) oil. It is a poor quality, industrial grade oil that's loaded with toxic "driers." As for water, filtered water works great. I have absurdly hard municipal water which I run through a Berkey filter. Works great. Most supermarkets also sell filtered water quite cheaply, about $1.00/gal. around here.

@andreuasencios3620

Жыл бұрын

Buy some distilled water, actually is even better and pure than rain water. Do not use hard water or tap water for this, you ll waste your time. Only distilled or rain water works for cleaning the oil.

If you apply paste wax after applying oil, do you need to remove that wax before repairing the finish later?

@paullambert8154

3 жыл бұрын

It’s probably a lot clearer than it looks in the jar, your looking at it in large quantity. Try looking at it with a eye dropper.

@scagliolist

10 ай бұрын

a wax surface will retard oil, though wax can be added to oil paints in small quantities.

@currentliveoccupant

10 ай бұрын

Two years and two replies that do not answer the question? @@scagliolist

beach sand can be used on that project ?

@UndomesticatedWizardLoser

7 ай бұрын

Yes for sure. I've walked down the beach and collected everything I've need to wash my oil in a single jar, water, salt and sand. I imagine our ancient artists did something just as simple and similar.

Can’t i just use the oil as is what is the difference? I need help:(

Can this process be used on walnut oil?

@DaMoysis

2 жыл бұрын

Yes!!! But it'll dry a bit slower than linseed (which may be handy.)

Did the old masters buy premaid oil?

I'm an artists from Vredenburg. I am also thinking of making my own products. From canvas to paints. Hopefully we can learn from each other.

What is the benefit of this oil compared to commercial one?

@andreuasencios3620

Жыл бұрын

comercial oil has too much mucilage on it, comercial ll dark your paintings and form a weak film, just only distilled water for this process.

@scagliolist

10 ай бұрын

According to Tad Spurgeon, who has done extensive research on historic oil refining, the chemistry and archival studies, industrial oils are over-refined, developed for industry not art, they are designed Not to dry. Hand refined methods allow the oil to dry faster, are non-yellowing (if the painting dries in indirect light).

I'd recommend buying raw, organic linseed oil in bulk rather than the little bottles marketed as something special at an outrageous price. Jedwards International sells "Flax Seed Oil - Virgin Organic" for $34.13 plus shipping. Shipping is $21.08; Total = $55.21. Considering an average yield of 65% or so, compare with the price of the little bottles of "special" and "refined" oils from art supply vendors. That is shipping in the USA. Jedwards does ship internationally but it's more complicated and expensive. The point is, stay away from art supply vendors oils. Look for raw, organic linseed (flax seed) oil in bulk quantity as recommended in Tad Spurgeon's book.

Make calcite sunoil.

My book had the new method HOT PLATE OIL - you can thicken the oil in 5 days - thank you - LOUIS R VELASQUEZ

Use cold pressed oil.

I'm wondering why you are using this messy method to remove the mucilage from the unrefined linseed oil, there is a better way. :-) Artists wanting to make a chemically unprocessed oil should firstly buy the first pressing of oil, the flax seeds being ground without heat or chemicals i.e. 'premier pression froid', then use the Velasquez/Tavenier 'air pump' method of cleansing the oil. Search for it, I can't post it here but the oil is ready for use in 36 hours. At this point sun thicken the oil, this creates a superior oil to all others that I've tried. Leaving it in the sun also bleaches it but the bleaching just looks nice, it doesn't add to the usability of the oil. The oil will dry in under a day, according to pigment and if you use a true lead white, you really will be approaching the old master's oil as near as we can several centuries removed. I buy 'pression froid' flax oil here in France in 5ltr containers, this will after filtering 3 ltrs or more. I make about 1 1/2 ltrs a year and that is plenty for my uses, even on the large paintings I am painting at the moment.

@portervillelouis

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Damian, it pains me to see you waste several weeks of your life with tads failed method of salt water and sand. Please see my recent book “ Rembrandts superior oil and how to make it. “ Published 1/22/22= I am the author: search amazon : Louis velasquez. You can remove all the mucilage from your unrefined flax seed oil ( linseed oil) by my CSO methods in 2 days. Tads method as you do it took you several weeks and lots of labor intensive effort. It simply does is a waste of time and not necessary. -- FYI : mixing water or salt water and oil does not create an EMULSION as you claimed. It is in fact a COLLOID . an emulsion is permanent, where the molecules of the oil and the emulsifier enter one into the other and do not separate. An example is mayonnaise. A COLLOID , is a temporary mixture. An example is oil and vinegar salad dressing. The two separate in minutes when standing still. PLEASE read my book. Take care. If you wish Damian, you can write to my email velapress@ aol.com . I will happily give you more information. Most sincerely. Louis velasquez

@portervillelouis

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Damian. This CSO METHOD removes the mucilage within 24-48 hours it is included in my 2022 book” Rembrandts superior oil and how to make it- - LOUIS VELASQUEZ METHOD NUMBER TWO The “CSO PSYLLIUM HUSK (Velasquez-Tavenier) AIR PUMP METHOD” This method is named, “The CSO Psyllium Husk (Velasquez-Tavenier ) Air Pump method”, in recognition of my artist friend Daniel Tavenier of The Netherlands, for helping me with this method. Full details and background information can be found in my previous books or DVDS. The air pump poses a problem if the weather is humid, summer or winter. While the air pump blows air into the oil, it unfortunately blows moisture from the humidity outdoors, into the oil. This moisture causes the oil to be a slow drying oil. By putting additional dry husk into the oil as the oil thickens, the husk absorbs the humidity moisture injected by the air pump. The Air Pump method was created because many readers complained about the high price of alcoholic liquor in their country. This method uses no alcoholic liquor, but uses a low- cost air pump and four feet of plastic tubing. Both bought at a pet store. STEP ONE: THE AIR PUMP MUCILAGE REMOVAL STEP Place 8 fluid ounces of oil in a large jar, to prevent bubbling spills. Use a jar that has a tight- fitting lid. Place 1 volume ounce of dry husk in the jar with the oil. (This is equal to 2 heaping tablespoons.) Punch two 1/4 inch diameter holes in the lid. One hole is for placement of the tube into the jar that connects to the air pump. The other hole is left uncovered to allow air to escape. STEP TWO: CONNECTING THE AIR PUMP Connect a flexible 4 foot long, rubber tube to a low- cost aquarium AIR pump. DO NOT USE a WATER pump. Place the tube into the hole in the lid and push the tip to the bottom of the jar. If the tube coils, use tape to attach a small wooden stick to the tube so it is held straight. Place the motor of the air pump at a slight level above the jar to prevent backwash. The motor must be left on continuously for 12 to 48 hours. The amount of time needed will depending on how high the humidity is in your area. Leave it on longer for very humid weather, whether the weather is hot or cold. STEP THREE: THE FIRST FILTER : Do not filter inside refrigerator USE THE STANDARD CSO FILTERING METHOD Place TWO tight fitting cotton balls in the narrow part of the funnel. Place the funnel over a jar. Place the colander over the funnel. Pour the entire contents of the jar into the colander. Do not lose patience! It takes 5 to 10 minutes for the filtering to begin to drip The oil will SLOWLY drip filter one drop at a time. The filtering may take 6 to 9 hours to complete. Upon conclusion do NOT squeeze the cotton ball in hopes of getting more oil. STEP FOUR: THICKENING THE OIL WITH THE AIR PUMP Once the mucilage has been removed you are ready to thicken the oil. The recently cleansed and filtered oil is a very slow drying oil. DO THIS to thicken (polymerize) the oil, so it will become a much faster drying oil. We add more dry Psyllium Husk to the clean filtered oil, to absorb moisture that the air pump will pump into the oil from the outside air humidity. Add one heaping tablespoon (1/2 volume ounce) of dry husk to the oil. Turn on the air pump for up to a maximum of consecutive 15 to 18 days. The oil becomes a faster drying oil with each successive day. You can air pump the oil for 10 or 18 days. The oil is ready when the artist chooses the correct viscosity desired. Do not continue use of the air pump for more than 18 days. If the oil is exposed for this maximum amount of time, any oil paint made with it, will wrinkle on drying. STEP FIVE: THE SECOND FILTER : Do not filter INSIDE the refrigerator THE STANDARD CSO FILTERING METHOD After the air pump exposure is finished, you must filter the oil as previously described above in order to remove the additional added husk. Your oil may become too viscous to pass through the cotton balls. If so, use a small wad of cheesecloth pressed tightly into the funnel’s neck. IF the filtering stops completely, use another funnel with a new wad of cheesecloth. You can check your oil to be certain it has no mucilage. Two methods are described in this book.

@portervillelouis

2 жыл бұрын

A BRIEF SUMMARY ON HOW TO MAKE REMBRANDT’S SUPERIOR OIL My book, ‘ Rembrandt’s Superior oil and how to make it’, teaches several easy effective methods on making his superior oil. There are two steps to making Rembrandts superior oil. STEP 1- Removing the mucilage STEP 2- thickening the oil Both steps are explained below . STEP ONE: METHODS ON REMOVING THE MUCILAGE My book mentioned above, teaches 3 methods to remove the mucilage . The specific details and instructions on removing the mucilage and thickening the oil are in my book ‘Rembrandt’s Superior oil and how to make it’. Here are the summaries. METHOD # 1- the CSO Psyllium Husk- water - freeze method . Removes the mucilage within 24 hours. METHOD # 2- the CSO Psyllium Husk ( velasquez- Tavenier ) air pump method . Removes the mucilage within 24-48 hours METHOD # 3- the CSO Psyllium Husk - alcohol method . Removes the mucilage within 8 to 10 days. STEP TWO: METHODS ON THICKENING THE OIL My book mentioned above teaches four methods on thickening the oil. When the oil is thickened, it becomes a faster drying oil. METHOD # 1- the Hot plate method. Thickens the oil within 3 to 5 days. METHOD # 2- the CSO Psyllium Husk ( velasquez- Tavenier ) air pump method . Thickens the oil within 10 to 15 days . METHOD # 3- the Old Master sun exposure method . Thickens the oil within 15 to 45 days or longer . METHOD #4- the CSO Jar method . Thickens the oil within 30 to 45 days or longer

@andreuasencios3620

Жыл бұрын

both method works, but sand salt washing method is cheaper and easier to star with. psyllium is very expensive in some countries.

@stephenwhite5444

Жыл бұрын

Does all of the purifying and such help in ways of adhesion or durability? Is it mostly to keep the paint from yellowing and altering pigment shading?

🤣It's looks like morning pea

Or you can buy it in the art supply store LOL

I'm sorry but not how it's done. No sans, but fullers earth (cat litter) or limestone flour. In the case of limestone flour the sludge is then used to make putty. ;)

another ancient technology you wonder how in the world they came up with it. if oxidation is your purpose why not use an aquarium bubbler?

@UndomesticatedWizardLoser

7 ай бұрын

Yup. I'm a violinmaker and I've got some colleagues that have been doing that for years. OR you just could just do this and spare yourself the utility bill. My oil pressed from seed and hand washed, I feel is far superior than their raw, storebought and then "aired" oil. The best oil comes from the best seeds. The best seeds go into the food supply, not artist supply.

Great music. Great video. But is this a music video or an instructional video? Turn it down.

Lot of wastage

There’s a website that goes in depth on this and I keep forgetting it, and having to ask my professor again 🫠