Just binged watched three other Dangar videos and you just uploaded a brand new one. It was a good night! Looking forward to more videos of the boat build and the outboard build.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Ha! Glad you enjoyed Jack. :)

Thanks man! Great vid on laminating the transom.

I've been back and fourth about possibly taking on a boat build and this series is definitely helping. once it is a little farther along i may end up starting one thanks to you. keep up the good work and keep the videos coming!

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

It is certainly a fun project. In hindsight I might have tried building something smaller for my first boat but this will certainly be a useful vessel once it is done.

Really enjoying this build series Stu. Thanks for posting.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks mate. :)

Good video, and good advice when something is not quite right. Thanks.

Hi Stu I spent 18 months restoring an old glass boat. And thought maybe I could pass on a couple of things I learnt along the way with regard to the gluing and glassing. Even with the slow hardener the max mix I could do was 7 - 8 shots before I got a quick reaction when mixing the components up. And yes it even smoked up large but no fire. After a while I started to add the glue powder into the resin and mixed this up before adding the hardener, this helped stop the build up of heat generated by all the stirring and gave me a little bit longer work time. When I took out the screws I initially put glue/ resign into them. This made it hard to sand down so I learnt to use the finishing powder in a stiff mix as this was closer to the consistency of the surrounding ply. Which made it way easier to sand flat without making any indentations to fill and sand down again. Hope this helps someone with their work Cheers Dave

@DangarMarine

5 жыл бұрын

Hey Dave, thanks for the tips. I'll definitely experiment with adding the power in before the hardener, that makes a lot of sense. I can imagine needing to add a bit more after the hardener is in to get back to the consistency you need but that's no biggie. Using the fairing powder for plugging holes also makes sense.

Good to see you're back at work! Regarding the warped plywood: lay any sheet of plywood on a cold/damp concrete floor and it will warp! The temporary battens clamped to the top and bottom is a great solution. Regarding laminating two sheets together: another option is to drill a square grid of holes a few inches apart in the top sheet, offset to the grid of screws connecting the two sheets. These holes act as "weep holes" that allows the epoxy to be forced out as you screw the two sheets together, so you can be pretty confident that there are no air gaps between the sheets (and may be able to use thinner or even unthickened epoxy).

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Interesting idea. I still need to laminate the transom doubler so I'll look into it a bit more.

I have no idea how you find time to research, record, edit and post a video or two a week, plus hold down a job and do the community work - totally amazed you are not sleep walking in the videos! Hats off to you for all your efforts.When laminating with epoxy I set the drill ratchet on 16, which I found by experimenting with scrap. Basically put a sheet of 80gsm paper between two sheets of ply, no glue, and put two screws in. Keep adjusting the drill tension adjustment until you can just pull the paper out with paper just about to tear. Use that tension setting for all the laminating. I also predrill the holes in one sheet and use dry wall screws and 'guard washers' wrapped in glad wrap (stops epoxy gluing the washers to the wood) through the holes to do the clamping. It is easy to squeeze too much epoxy out when laminating and cause a weaker bond.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks Ron, I must confess to feeling pretty burnt out at the moment. I feel a holiday coming on before too much longer. I like you technique for finding the right drill setting for lamination, I'll have to remember that one. :)

@ronpowell2373

6 жыл бұрын

Forgot to mention , the screws are dipped in grease so the epoxy doesn't glue them as well.

Love the shot of the screws actually clamping the two layers together!

Aw yeah! Feels like forever since the last video!

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Longest two days ever! ;)

@GrimDinosaur

6 жыл бұрын

Absolutely! 👍

Your too good. I will just foot the bill and buy 18mm marine ply.

Was given a 3m product to bind the two pieces together and then west system epoxy 105 and 105 (if memory serves me). Worked pretty good.

good vid Stu..

One additional bit of advise, too late for the transom and you may have already experienced this, but it's best get those screws out before the epoxy completely sets up. What you can do is leave them in for a few hours, remove them carefully, then lay the part down on the floor and use cinder blocks to hold it down until cured. Cinder blocks are cheap and you can get a sufficient quantity to apply weight evenly over the entire part. Getting them out after complete cure is almost certainly going to result in broken screws. Ask me how I know!! Looking forward to seeing further work on the boat.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Interesting point Carl. These came out quite easily, but it may be because they have a very smooth coating on them. Others have suggested dipping them in grease before putting them in.

@carlsmoot2939

6 жыл бұрын

I think grease would not be a good idea as it can contaminate the area around the screw. Another alternative is to use the weight approach Ii mentioned (using cinder blocks) but just put in a few silicon bronze screws to keep things from moving. Silicon bronze screws can be permanently left in. Adjust the length so they don't go all the way through the plywood.

Gday mate when i had my second resto boat haines hunter v146 i had to replace the transom ,when i did i made it twice the thickness 24/5 mm full not just a patch in the centre where the motor would sit .Anyway i used polyester resin and glass cloth in between ,i used brass screws to pull them together just long enough to poke there noses through the bottom layer of ply. after which i just filed them off and filled all the screw heads and left them in there as the transom was to be fully glassed anyway before installation just more solidarity ,being a carpenter it helps as i have almost all the tools required ,anyway good video take care.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

I think leaving the screws in probably isn't a bad way to go. As you say, the whole thing gets glasses over anyway so it won't be a way for water to creep into the timber.

@crispernator

6 жыл бұрын

yes and also i used brass screws with the lamination and screws and being glassed all over the new transom can take a larger engine and also should last a lifetime ,i have to say it was a fair weight when finished but could never see it rotting .

Don't know a lot about it, but it's looking good so far Stu; Thanks Mate.....

If you put Pam cooking spray on the clamping screws or clamps they are easy to remove & will not stick to the epoxy.

Stu I have refrigerated the resin to lengthen the work time thanks JT

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Good tip!

Glue the two layers of plywood together first. then cut it to shape. Heaps easyer.

@DangarMarine

5 жыл бұрын

Sounds like a good way to go.

Notification squad checking in.

Great video bit short,but some good advice

KZread should add a love button ❤👍

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

I've got one. ;)

always enjoy watching your vids. try using a square toothed trowel next time for spreading the epoxy. it will give a nice even thick coat.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Yes, I've used those for tiling in the past, I should get some more.

With that transom this bad boy could handle a few HP i'm thinking :)

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Hope so! The plans are rated up to 70HP. :)

I built a glen-l marine boat and I used a WELDWOOD waterproof resorcinol glue on everything

Hi Stu, I have pretty much zero experience in lamination involving wood and epoxy, but I was thinking as you mixed the first batch, "Is that going to be enough?" Good job that the epoxy doesn't harden in mere moments. I'm pleasantly surprised to find this rather interesting in terms of building a boat from the ground-up. I think it's because the project is done in little steps, piece-by-piece. I doubt I would or could survive a boat build if it were filmed and presented in one complete video, but "cutting it down" into little segments or doing it in steps seems to be the ticket. Keep up the hard work, mate. It's progressing rather well. I did not expect to find a boat build all that enjoyable.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks Stan. My plan is to just show each new technique as it is needed for the first time - lofting, joining, laminating etc so hopefully it won't get too repetitive and boring.

@ronpowell2373

6 жыл бұрын

Stan, a few things I like about epoxy is that the smell is not sharp and bighty, but you still shouldn't breath it in. Some mixes smell like a mouse cage (urea?) but that's about the worst of it. Another is the gell/set time can be pretty long with the right hardener with out affecting the strength or brittleness. Especially when doing the cloth over the ply where you can have literally tens of metres to do in one hit, the slower hardener makes multiple batches/100% homologated resin so easy. The trick is to use large flat paint trays to hold your mixed epoxy if you have a few litres mixed up. Clean up is safer, the epoxy is far less flammable. The most dangerous parts I have seen was some one dropping a pack of wood flour and then setting up to use an air jet to blow the dust out of the shed. If that dust had got airbourne, one spark and we would have a good chance of a dust explosion. A bagged workshop vac (non bagged ones are too dangerous) or broom are the only way to pick that stuff up.

also this will allow to plumber up your stringer square at same time

Heres a tip for working out coverage so 1litre gives 1mm over 1square Metre so you would look at that and think I need 0.5mm and its about 1.5 square M so I need half of 1.5L which is 750ml. then you get plastic jugs with L marks on side and pump in until you get to the mark. 0.5mm is fine for most laminating and around 1mm thick for glassing usual glass thickness.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks John, very handy! :)

hi you can cut a frame that corrects your warping with a center board at right angel to two side bit like a H then this will hold each section in place till you have anchor to final position remove holding screws and throw temp H's

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

I think something like that will definitely be the way to go.

very interesting stu. i've noticed something i think may help. on those two pieces what if you dry fit them then bore two holes and dowelled them. you wouldnt have to worry about one shifting on the other. and you said those runners were the same from side to side the same idea when cutting them out would result in identical pieces. and cutting the slots would all be the same.. just a thought. cheers

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Good idea. I think I've got a packet of wooden dowel in the workshop too.

@ronpowell2373

6 жыл бұрын

from experience, over such a long distance, you only have to have one slot 1mm higher / deeper than the other and the long piece will 'rock' as shown. And my jigsaw blade is 1.5mm thick. It really is not an issue that a rasp or the like wont fix. But for those who make a boat like this, be prepared for the 'tolerances' to add up on a few pieces and give you a few things to tweak. Don't give up, you haven't done anything wrong.

I have read just about everywhere not to use pressure treated plywood, but no one says what to use instead. I need to replace transom which is 1.5” tick. I plan to get 3/4” and double up with enamel paint. Just wondering what wood to use.

Hi Stu, As always, top vid. Can you tell us about deciding not to wet out the laminates for the transom with unthickened epoxy or Everdure?

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Hi mate. The short answer is I'm just following the step by step procedure supplied by the designer. You definitely could wet it out to get the epoxy to penetrate deeper into the wood, but I'm presuming the answer is that the bond is so much stronger than it needs to be you are better off just saving the epoxy given how expensive it is. Strong enough is strong enough.

@sydneyharbourscenery1206

6 жыл бұрын

Makes total sense. Eagerly waiting for the next vid. 👍

What you took out the DUSK MASK that is safe and sound in its box .

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

I know! I'm going to have to buy another one now. ;)

notched trowel might help

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Yes, I've used those for laying tiles etc, good idea.

Is there any reason you couldn't use a tube of 5200 instead of all that mixing? Thanks..

Hi Stu, is the Johnson 30 going on the ply boat ? Not sure if its been asked or i missed it. Cheers

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

No, the plywood boat is going to need something around the 60HP mark.

It`s nice to see you using a safety mask Stu, but you have it the wrong way LOL.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Oops, I must have picked it up without looking...

A "sticky situation".

Hi Stu, love watching this boat coming together. I have a question which I believe I know the answer but wanted your input. I'm currently running non-ethanol 87 octane gas on my motors to keep the carbs and lines from clogging up but if I'm running it during the boating season and not sitting stagnant for over a month can i just use gas with ethanol? Then if the motor is going to sit just put it on muffs and run the non-ethanol through the carbs and store it. What do you think? Reason the ethanol/regular cost allot less and easier to get around here. My merc manual I believe states it's ok to run 10% 87 octane. What it fails to state is don't let it sit without running it. Thanks

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

I think if Ethanol fuel gets used quickly it isn't likely to cause any huge problems - it will take a little while to absorb water. Just be sure that all your fuel lines and filters are 100% ethanol safe. It isn't hard to find line that is good for ethanol, it is used in every modern car.

@TimsWorkshopTJY

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks Stu, Yes that's what I was thinking. I'm going to fill the main tank with the ethanol gas fuel to use out on the water then when back home run the motors with the non-ethanol fuel from my auxiliary tank through the carbs. Have to do that anyway on muffs after a saltwater run. Will try this and see how it goes. The fuel left in the main tank will transfer out at the end of the boating season to run in the car.

@ronpowell2373

6 жыл бұрын

Still run a water separating fuel filter though. Also fill your mains before storage for the winter (which has hit with a vengeance here in Sydney this last weekend) as empty tanks 'sweat' . Even normal non ethanol fuels need to have a stabiliser added for storage over a month as it will turn in to varnish solvent over a few months . If you want to keep your fuel tanks empty for storage you need to drain them entirely, and put a low power heat source in them. I have made a fuel tank heater for the boat I use to sail on out of a small V aluminium can, an oven light and long lead. The reason for the V can was that it was close to hand, was small enough to go down in the filler hole and strong enough to protect the globe. We also used a small bottle of MIG gas to make sure there was no oxygen for the vapours to ignite . That boat is nearly ready for the water again after two years of osmosis repairs.

@TimsWorkshopTJY

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Ron, I checked with my local marine mechanic. He said always use marine grade stabil with each fill up weather running that day or sitting. As far as the empty tank it needs to be cleaned. I have easy access to the top. Just need to disconnect the battery and remove the top cap with the fuel gauge wire and suck out anything in there. Reinstall the cap with fuel resistant sealant, full tank with fuel and marine grade stabil.

Hey Stu.I just wanted your thoughts on removing the automatic Oiler set up on my 225 Yamaha?its more then 15 years old and would like to stay on the safe side.its running fine NP!would you keep it this way or mix your oil and gas?Im just thinking about it befor I put it in for the summer. Thanks for your advice!

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Hey Bruce. If it's working fine I wouldn't be too worried, they tend to be quite reliable.

👌👌

Random question but how long have you owed green machine

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Not that long really, I'd say about 3 or 4 years. I had a previous boat that had the exact same hull for a while too though.

Check your jig system

I dont think they sell these plans annymore. Cant find it on their homepage.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

I can't see it there either, I'll ask Mark about it.

random question: how do you plan to repair those screw holes in the transom?

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

I just mixed up more epoxy and Cabosil to fill the holes. Once that sets I'll sand it and then this transom also gets a layer of fibreglass over it.

Coming along nicely. Have you got a new camera or lights ? The video looks to be slightly better resolution.

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Hey Peter, I think it is just from changing a few settings during the video compression stage. Good to here it makes a difference. My internet is so bad that I never get to watching anything better than 320p...

@firstmkb

5 жыл бұрын

Dangar Marine I don't think living in a boater's paradise is a bad trade-off for 320p KZread!

For a bit of inspiration, here's a link to a guy who built a stitch-and-glue boat (never built a boat before) on the 5th floor of a car park in Seoul Korea. Astonishing quality of build! kzread.info/dash/bejne/fJ2EzJqGn7i_Z84.html

Say hi to charly ... kisses n huggs from Qatar

You just got mention on a KZread channel Catamaran Impi and a video of you

@DangarMarine

6 жыл бұрын

Ah yes, I've had drinks on Catamaran Impi a couple of times when they passed through the area. I'll have to check the video out. :)

hope you could help. just bought a 15ft wave rider mustang (small speedboat) and a 40hp 2 stroke, long shaft. engine weighs about 75kg, the transom is cracked. could you give me any advise on what to do? was thinking to reinforce with steel plates and plywood.. boat is fiberglass. thanks in advance.

@DangarMarine

5 жыл бұрын

First I would check it doesn't have rot in it anywhere. If it's good then you could glass a second piece of ply on the inside. Make sure glue it well to the original transom and then run the fibreglass forward along the hull (sides and bottom) at least 15cm or so. Be careful not to make it too thick though as you still need to get the motor back on! The greatest strain on a transom is when the boat is being towed on a trailer so a support pole for the motor leg might help too.

@Luke-hu9mc

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much, have a freind thats really into fiberglassing so should manage with his help. forgot about those support bars too so yeah thanks, very helpful! 🍻🇨🇮

Rebuilt mine on my 1960 14ft. Bugger was curved. What bitch. Came out great though

Very surprised you didn't first coat the plywood with resin.

looks good! but please use a drillbit holder next time. using bits like that makes me cringe haha.

@firstmkb

5 жыл бұрын

Why use a holder? Not complaining, just curious.