You're not making it out of rusty reclaimed railroad track? Fame has changed you!

@zachaliles

2 жыл бұрын

He can't. Timothy Dyck has all the train tracks stashed away up in Canada.

I like this channel more than Abom. You actually machine and make things instead of just doing unboxing videos and shameless product plugs.

I adored the part you left in where you switched camera angles back and forth as you hand cranked. Hilarious!

I know what I especially like about you. I watched a lot of your videos and I like your humor, your courage; just start and let's see but your honesty about your work strikes me the most. You show dumb faults in the open. Off course I make them too but I don't have an audience to share it with and honestly; I'm not sure if I would. So now you know ;-) Thank you Jeremy! All the best, job

I was laughing at the shot where you're closing the vise. Too funny! Keep up the good work!

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

I like to throw that gag in from time to time…basically whenever I feel like I’ve been cranking anything for longer than it feels like I should have to. We’ve all been there.

@kendingsor

2 жыл бұрын

I was dying

@Man-in-da-shed

2 жыл бұрын

Was so real. Lol

Nice job on the casting. Couple of things that might help, Make the locating lug on the cope tapered and match the lugs on the drag to it, much easier to locate them for assembly and easier to separate. Cut a pouring basin beside your sprue hole to reduce air getting carried in with your molten metal. Also reduce the diameter of your sprue, you want to be able to keep it full all the time you are pouring. Stops air entering. Add a riser so you can see that the mold has filled completely.

Look forward to the finished product👍 Shaper footage was great and loved the vice gag 🤣

Seems like my projects. Time to make required tooling and fixturing: 14 days. Time to make actual project: 14 minutes.

I have no idea how you got that time lapse on the shaper so smooth, but you did.

@Watchyn_Yarwood

2 жыл бұрын

Agree!!

I got to RotarySMP from This Old Tony, then RotarySMP mentioned you, then you mentioned TOT. Full circle. I live down on the Seacoast and it's nice to see somebody from your home state putting out projects and videos like this.

Jeremy, I would suggest that to make your pivot point last longer that you put a couple of inches of square, closely fitting oak or other hardwood into the ends and drill through. This will enable you to clamp down tighter on the pivots but at the same time give a bigger bearing surface so the aluminum doesn't oval out and eventually break. The experience I've had with microphone arms shows that after a few years of being yanked around by announcers any reinforcement you can offer is well worth it. Now back to your video.

" Have some issues to work through"....Brother, don't we all! Nice job on the casting. Very little if no porosity at all. Keep up the good work!

Great video, and a cool project. I was thinking "Jeremy should get in the habit of weighting down flasks even if not needed, as sooner or later we all float off the cope" :) Also big jumps in cross section are poor casting practice, and those shrinkage defect came from there, not from the gating. If you do a similar part in future, milling a pocket in the back of the pattern, to give a near constant material cross section would help. Did you ever get your collet chuck out of the mill spindle?

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

No, it’s still in there. I have several ideas on getting it out, but it works for now, and I’m a little worried there might be some damage to spindle taper. In the event that I need to get the spindle re-ground, I’d rather do it when I have the machine taken apart to rebuild it, so I’m putting it off.

@RotarySMP

2 жыл бұрын

@@JeremyMakesThings Procrastination is an under respected skill in my view :)

Hey, so Rotary SMP sent me, and I'm glad he did. I enjoy your style👍

Kinda rough looking but seems functional. I'd call that a win! BTW, I do enjoy your work and the way you tackle things. Thanks for the look and your time/ skills.

Hi Jeremy, enjoying your videos as always....just a few comments to hopefully make your casting work better: Always put a follow board under your drag before you place a pattern in it. And make your follow board the same size as the outer dimension of your flask. That way you won't have such a hard time turning it over. Your wooden flask guides are very tight, you want to be able to separate cope and drag easily, without jamming. That means the cope and drag must fit eachother in dimensions, and must also be flush. The pins on the cope should extend just under the thickness of two follow boards. That way you can invert the cope over two follow boards on your bench. Sometimes you need to do that. Supper time, more later......

@SRHacksaw

2 жыл бұрын

You can taper the wooden cope pins in width, just angle the corresponding guides on the drag. You can also taper the pins in thickness by sanding, to reduce the tightness you have now. Or shim them out a small amount with paper to get a nice (not loose) sliding fit. As mentioned by others your sand looked dry and yet I noticed broke out in chunks -- maybe too much clay? You could adjust the clay content by adding sand. To reduce sanding of patterns (and make it easier) use somewhat thinned lacquer or shellac, and if you add talc baby powder (not cornstarch type) it will sand very easily and dry very fast. Krylon spay lacquers generally go well over that. Final finish should be gloss in order for the pattern to pull from sand without disturbing it. The finer the finish the better the casting finish. Your gates are rough and overly large -- try to cut them with a thin sheet of plastic, like from a milk jug or soda bottle, bent in a U. Check out Luckygen1001 's videos for that and other tips on molding -- he does amazing work with little effort and minimal equipment in iron. Most of what he says is applicable to aluminum as well. Stop by Madmodder.net, RotarySMP is there, and I mentioned your channel there awhile ago as a great watch. Keep up the good work!

Hello again from Canada Jeremy. Years ago I got into aluminum sand casting and a couple of hints from my experience... you need risers for chunky aluminum castings, often much bigger than you think are needed, or you will starve the pour creating voids. For some reason this is even more important if you are using scrap from cast aluminum vs. extruded. I think your sand is still a bit dry, and you need to use more parting powder. If I was doing casting again I'd do as much lost foam casting as I could: OH the time it would save! Love your stuff Sir!

I think a lot of your work-holding problems could have been solved by mounting the castings directly to your mill table using a combination of strap clamps, packing and support with machinist jacks. You would likely have to reposition strap clamps to machine areas that are covered by the strap clamps. It's a small hassle to reposition your clamps to finish machining a surface, but your work wouldn't move while you are machining it.

Nice project Jeremy, I have the same problem with tripods, can't wait to see how it works. I hope to try casting some day.. Enjoyed !

Great video Jeremy. I haven't tried casting yet but it is on the bucket list!

Great video man, a little bit of everything, my kind of video..

I love that you still rock sideburns. I'm a beard man now but back when I was in the service I would push the sideburn regulation to the absolute limit. I tried chops for a while but they didn't really suit me.

I need to do this for my small shop/KZread channel. Thanks for the inspiration :)

lol your vice handle, I appreciate the Monty Python reference.

I would've clicked liked anyway, but especially liked due to the vise closing montage.

I like your vise with extra terrestrial jaws. It's a good idea. And in the meanwhile, we where sill in your way to record this video :)

its our shop now Jeremy, keep it clean! ahaha

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

YOU’RE NOT THE BOSS OF ME, MISTER! 😆

I like the projects, i love the sense of humour, i'm long time subscriber to both channels.

Brilliant as always 😃

Great video, very interesting! 👍 I'm not an expert but I think your sand was too dry and crumbly.

Always interesting.

Nice job 😀 your green sand looked a touch dry to me and I think using an impact driver caused your sand inclusions! Really nice to see someone who actually wears some safety gear whilst casting too. I’ve never been a fan of aluminium insoles.... 🤣

Hi Jeremy Yes casting parts needs many brain cells to kick in. How often does one forget that the bloody parts need to be held in the vise. Myself I give myself an extra 1" or 3" to hold the part and this can be at all edges. I Just recycle the chips .

Great vid man !

Really like your channel! Maybe it would be better to compress the sand in the flask on the floor rather than on this flimsy plywood sheet... Just my two cents 😁

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

Yes. I’ve move to ramming on the work bench, and it’s going a bit better.

Sorry If I missed it but are you spraying any mold release or stabilizer? If not that can really help to firm up the sand that touches the cast and prevent that sand washing you were seeing.

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

I’m not using anything. Got any product recommendations?

Hello Jeremy, Good video. enjoyable viewing, thank you. The vice with the adjustable jaws for unusual shapes, what brand is it> Take care. Paul,,

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

I did a video on it…actually my first video. kzread.info/dash/bejne/k42JspaxYNayZJc.html

the vise joke killed me 🤣

Don't take this the wrong way.... visually through the camera your sand doesnt seem like some of the others that cast, like its too course and maybe a bit dry. I enjoy myfordboy and windy hill foundry for my metal melting fix vids. I really like your channel. Thanks for bringing us along!!!

@tcarney57

2 жыл бұрын

I like his channel, too, and I also noticed the dry sand (maybe also insufficient bentonite?). The blowout, I think, was the result of the flask not fitting together very well, leaving a gap through which the metal poured through. Flasks aren't fine furniture, but they're not concrete forms, either. Straight 3/4 to 1" stock assembled on a flat surface with decent joinery. Assemble the flask whole then split into cope and drag on the table saw for a perfect match.

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

I can tell my sand/clay/water ratio still isn’t right, especially the first one I showed I had some sand that was way too dry toward the end. I’m continuing to experiment.

No, those worm hole like defects at around 11.15 are not sand wash they are shrinkage because you did not provide any feeders for the castings. Also your sand looks way to dry to me, sprue was way too big and leakage was due to failure to weight the first mould - don't screw moulds together just weight the cope. Congratulations on getting your lift out tongs and pouring shank about righty - many people screw that right up, but pour with the lip of the crucible right down on the mould.. Martin

As a pre-newbie, I have a dumb question. Why would you not just pour simple blocks without the detailed shape and then machine the details in? As you pointed out, its hard to hold some components due to their shape to machine them, you have to deal with imperfections in the pouring and you have many more parts to make moulds for (rather than, essentially, blocks of wood). Please keep them coming. The education is amazing and its quite entertaining.

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

Not a dumb question at all, I would have saved a lot time if I’d not cast them at all, and just machined them out of solid stock, especially because I didn’t do a great job designing them, or machining the castings, etc, and had to go back and do a lot of “clean up” work….but this was, in no small part, an exercise in learning the process, figuring out what assumptions I made were wrong, doing all the of-course-that-didn’t-work forehead slaps. The nature of this project has a lot of tolerance for mediocre work, so it’s a good learning experience so I can build the skills for when I want to cast more complex parts.

@BenMitro

2 жыл бұрын

@@JeremyMakesThings That's (the trials to aid learning) is a very, very good idea. All now makes sense, thanks Jeremy.

Hey Jeremy, I'd love to see your videos on Odysee!

I'm curious what the original reason for the excessive tapers on the pieces was? Also, I was glad to hear rotary mention your channel the other day. Your videos are always excellent.

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

More draft makes it easier to get the patterns out of the sand.

@BraxtonHoward

2 жыл бұрын

@@JeremyMakesThings I meant what you said "looked good on the model" but made it not hinge far enough.

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

Oh. That was there because it looked good when I drew it on the computer. It’ll make more sense when I show the thing put together (which I was going to do in this video, but it got long enough without it) but one end of the case piece gets two pieces of the square tube on either side, and the other end gets one piece of square tube in the slot, so one end is wider than the other. So it made sense to make it a smooth taper, and I just extended that taper into the “hinge” part. And when I modeled it, I didn’t think to look at how the parts fit together with the hinge bent. Oops.

@BraxtonHoward

2 жыл бұрын

Fair enough. Thanks for the replies, looking forward to the rest of the build.

That vise with the separate fingers, what company makes that and what is it called?? 🤔

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

I did a video on it…actually my first video. kzread.info/dash/bejne/k42JspaxYNayZJc.html

Can you explain the burner more? I haven't heard of the person you mentioned before.

@JeremyMakesThings

2 жыл бұрын

It’s a “Ron Reil” burner, the most concise explanation I’ve seen is here: www.iforgeiron.com/uploads/monthly_2018_01/burner.gif.08e79b1d88c38ecc090dfd73e80f8774.gif but if you go to his website, there’s way more information than you would probably ever want. ronreil.abana.org/design1.shtml

What is the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow?

Your mill needs tramming. Then, those between cut ridges will disappear.

Watch Windy Hill Foundry for tips

14.23.....IS THAT WHOLE SECTION REALLY NEEDED ?.. OR ARE YOU WANTING TO INCREASE THE DRAMA ?... ADD MUSIC PERHAPS ?..

@624Dudley

2 жыл бұрын

Perhaps you didn’t recognize the Monty Python reference within that section. It’s a hoot!