Make a cone stop for your slip roller that bolts to the left green angled piece. That guides the cone from spiraling and eliminates the work of “slipping” it in the roller by hand. Also start all cone ends backwards in the roller to eliminate the natural tendency to leave a flat spot. I made many pipes the same way as you demonstrate. I Laser cut now to avoid the tin snips. Keep it up!

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers for the tips - I'll look to make a stop before the next phase of construction. Noted about the backwards start - I'll try that too. Cheers for the help 🙂 I've done a few laser cut pipes too... And yes it does make life a bit easier... But I need to get my money's worth out of the new tin snips 😂

@2strokepipes471

Жыл бұрын

@@AutoBeta2T tin snips build character! And it demonstrates simplicity.

Love your attention to detail- making expansion chambers is lots of fun !

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers 😊 Yeah, it's good to get back into it after a few years.

Really good. Got them spot-on for roundness 👍

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers Dave. ☺️

Dave, happy new year to you, your family and all the other subscribers. Hope 23 is good to all of you.

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers buddy, happy New Year to you and the family too 🎊

great job lad keep it going

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers Mark - will do.

Very nice and informative video.

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Stijn 😃

Nice progress. Merry christmas!

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers Einar - Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 🌲🎉

Excellent video. I’m about to build pipes for a 73 Brutanza liquid triple snowmobile. Was the first liquid sled ever factory made. Rare. You gave me some nice tips that will make my end result much better.

@AutoBeta2T

6 ай бұрын

Hi Christopher - I'm pleased it was of some help. Good luck with the triple pipe build :)

Looks awesome 👍Have a great Xmas mate

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers Andy - you too 🌲🎉🎊

Good stuff! You certainly put a lot of effort into getting each cone dead right and a spot on fit with the next cone, to be honest I doubt that the 'professionals' take as much care as you do!

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers Pete - I learnt the good fitment lesson on my first RGV pipes. I spent as long smashing filler rod into the holes made from bad fit-up as it would have taken to spend more time with prep.

I've always wanted to build my own expansion chamber. Great job and excellent explanation as you progressed. Thank you for your time

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Hi Scott, I'm pleased you found it helpful. Are you planning on building an expansion chamber? I'm just getting ready to film making the header and flange etc... and the egt bosses. Cheers Dave.

@scotttipps8155

Жыл бұрын

@@AutoBeta2T yes I have always tinkered with it and now its tome to go for it!!!!!

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Sweet - good luck with it 😀 It's a great thing to be able to do!

Only just found your channel, nice work. I've always wanted to do similar to my old Honda mb5

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Hi Stephen, pleased you found the channel and hope you enjoy the content. My first motorbike was an MT5 so same engine as your MB as I remember? Could be a fun project 😊

@bikefarmtaiwan1800

Жыл бұрын

My first bike was an Mb5 -loved it but it was way too slow when my mates had fuzzies and Ap50s . As I remember there is a washer welded in the stock exhaust and MOST annoyingly the exhaust port is an astonishing 5mm too low :( The carb is also probably also to small but I loved the bike as a first bike . Next bike was a KH 250 - that was incredible at 17 years old !!!

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Yep - the things they did to keep the power down. The standard AR 50 exhaust port is very low too... And very small.

Also if you stress relieve the weld it will release all the distortion. Use a hammer with a solid block on the inside and tap until you see the distortion come out. A ball pein hammer on the inside would do it

I can smell the extra hp 🦾 Nice gloves 😁

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers Jim - hopefully 😊

Nice work! I'm now working on an exhaust for my tuned 117cc maxiscooter (lots of videos about it on my channel) but with all free calculators I've used the best exhaust would look like a straw for some reason. There's no pipes available for tuned Yamaha 4VP10 100cc engine, it's so rare. So I've been testing with performance pipes for Yamaha 70cc scooters because the fitment is almost identical. Top speed went from 80km/h to 120km/h so I believe I have done something right but I'm sure the exhaust is now holding me back. I think all those exhaust calculators I've tested are meant for wide powerband and for scooter you don't really need that. My current pipe is about 2x wider and 30cm longer when comparing to average calculator outcome and still it works the best from all pipes I've tested so far 😃

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Hi JoniK, cheers. Yes, the online calculators are not always the best. I've had really good results with Graham Coker's calculator and also with EngMod2T. There are a few more I'd like to try for the AR. What sort of rpm does your maxiscooter peak at? I'd say the pipe I'm currently making could possibly work well on it. Saying that if you've gone.from.80 to 120 km/h then it looks like the pipe you have is in the ballpark 😁

Looking great Dave, love the attention to detail. In a previous comment I mentioned making the front pipe from a single piece of sheet, it's not too difficult to achieve but I only used to do it in the early proof of concept stages, when EVERYTHING is cut and try (I didn't have software) anything to shorten the process is helpful, including converting a 2 cylinder engine to a single lol.... in order to do it you'd probably need to print the segments eye shaped rather than bowtie though. My philosophy then was get it working first then make them pretty. Don't think I'd do it that way now though as I'd guess the software gets it VERY close to ideal. Also when I mentioned the cylinder head cowl a lot of people will say the ram air concept didn't work as Suzuki dropped it for the last 2 models of GT250 however I'm inclined to believe it did work, I've seen GT250 heads with the cowl removed and the fins are about half the length of the later models, I think it was dropped to reduce costs not because of any kind of design failure .

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers Roy - I think more time on prep does help ultimately but does take time. I'm in less of a rush now and I'm enjoying having a bit more space to do this with certainly helps

@madmaxsdog8040

Жыл бұрын

@@AutoBeta2T The software will probably get you to the stage where I would begin to make them with an eye to quality rather than speed of manufacture. Regarding the marking out, I did it the same way, even down to the pritt adhesive lol but I always seemed to have part cans of spray paint lying around, a quick coat once they're stuck down saves all the drawing and highlights the offcuts better. The steel I used was 20 gauge which I got from work ( the pit workshops ) even direct from the supplier there were sometimes sheets with hard patches where maybe the temperature had dropped a little while it was going through th thickness rollers. Final cutting/trimming of blanks I always tried to do at work using a cutter called a Monodex, it's like a 3 prong fork with the center one moving up and down between the outer two, very precise and very low distortion. I was able to use slip rolls at work but anything at home was hand formed on sections of hydraulic ram in a vise as battle scarred as yours lol.

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Okay - so .9mm... I've worked with that before and it was good. I got one of the X7 pipes Lasered and it was 0.7mm (22 gauge) and an absolute dick-head to weld. Paint sounds like a good 'hack'! Please to hear the trusty pritt-stick has been going for a while.

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

I'll have a look at the Monodex. Was it hydraulically operated? It's amazing what you can do with a piece of metal bar! And yes the Record vise has some time in ☺️

Dave. That poor vice 🤣 Happy New Year buddy

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Happy New year mate 🎊 Yep, the old Record is a trooper!

Nice!

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers Mark. How are the RD400 pipes coming along?

@SpeedofCheeseRacing

Жыл бұрын

@@AutoBeta2T I am moving the shop 100 miles away so the pipes are on hold.

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

@@SpeedofCheeseRacing ah - I remember seeing on FB. Good luck with the move and have a Happy Christmas 🎄

@SpeedofCheeseRacing

Жыл бұрын

@@AutoBeta2T You too brother!

nice work . i used to make pipes 30 years ago with gas welding , but i was lazy and rolled the header and just cut it and turned it to get my bends .

@AutoBeta2T

7 ай бұрын

Cool, what did you make pipes for? I've heard of that method. It sounds quicker than what I use but I have always worried about cutting it up and keeping the ends flat and accounting for the cuts.

@TheSteelweasel

7 ай бұрын

made for my lambretta sprint bike in the 1980s if you cut and turn its the same shit worked well got 14 second quarters and 90 mph ..... im sure i could do over 100 now 40 years on ..... make exhaust port wider in the blow down area in a trapisoid shape . the more area you have when the exhaust port first openes the better .... good luck .... i used blairs formula . @@AutoBeta2T

@AutoBeta2T

7 ай бұрын

Cool, that sounds fast for a Lambretta! A few people have mentioned about getting the area open quick with the exhaust. Blair for the exhaust too?

Great video. Thanks. I've been following evening classes TIG welding and I think I'm ready for trying out my first 2-stroke expansion exhaust. I have been doing some exercises with pie cuts from a pipe (1mm) and am happy with the result. On the inside of the pipe, there is some (minimal) relief of material on the welds. No issue for 4-stroke. But what about this for 2-stroke?? I can imagine this can have some impact on the flow. Do you file/sand on the inside after welding?

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Hi Carrejans, thank you. With the inside of the pipe I do grind the welds to smooth out any weld boogers. Generally it's not too bad if the welder is set correctly. Note: I don't use filler wire on the weld I just fusion weld it; however, on occasion a little filler may be required if there's a gap and this can lead to some blobs inside that need grinding. I also hammer each weld. I'll make sure I cover these points in the part 2 vid. Cheers Dave

Great work. This takes me back almost 50 years when I used to stop behind on the afters shift and cut up 45 gallon drums to make expansion chambers. Oxy acetylene welded with a mumber 1 nozzle turned down as low as it would go. All cut and formed by hand. The expansion chambers were used on 250 singles and made using the trial and error techneque. I would love to have a go hydro forming expansion chambers just for the fun of it.

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers Malc ☺️ What was the metal from the drums like to work with? It sounds weird but you can feel the difference between different metal. As the drums would have been formed I wonder if they were fairly soft to work with or had work hardened? I'd love another go on oxy acetylene (last time was BTEC at college in 94...) Hydroforming is interesting. I'm not sure if it's quicker than cones as there's quite some faff with template layout but quicker to make. As for if there's a performance benefit, I'm curious 🧐

@madmaxsdog8040

Жыл бұрын

I mainly used 20 gauge steel from work but I've been known to cut them from fridges, washing machines, and cookers etc when I couldn't get any lol. And like you it was cut and try, I only had the generic maths formulas from books which do get you into the ball park but obviously aren't optimised

@malcrandall1309

Жыл бұрын

@@AutoBeta2T Back in those days for me it was a matter of using what you could get hold of metal wise. Materials were thicker in those days and did vary from one make of drum to another. We chose the thickest material we could which seemed to be quite stiff, better for welding but harder for forming. Truing was done with a 9" angle grinder fixed to a bench with a new disc which was not too true. By removing the guard you had a good 7" to play with. Welding wise, the material warped with too much heat. I used to love gas welding. At that time I had good eye sight and a steady hand while using my own BOC ultra light welding torch with 1/4" bagging. I found that I could get more into the zone by using the old fashioned twin eye piece BOC goggles, it was like wearing blinkers. One advantage of segments is that you can make one at a time. When working on afters I used to get finished from 11-30 onwards so this gave 1 hours playtime to do my own work. I personally doubt if there's any real performance increase between the two types if made to the same dimensions and build quality. Thanks for your interest.

@malcrandall1309

Жыл бұрын

@@madmaxsdog8040 It seems so easy to get things now the internet is here to stay, There is no shortage of white products littering the fields and street corners

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

@@madmaxsdog8040 Near home there's a fridge that has been dumped that I've had my eye on... I think most appliances are made from CR1 or 2 sheet steel that has better forming properties and is good for hydroforming. By some fluke I seemed to have found somewhere that does it! I spent a long time some years ago trying to find some CR 1 or 2. coilslitting.co.uk/mild-steel/#:~:text=CR1%20is%20the%20softest%20from,strength%20%26%20quality%20of%20the%20steel.

Hey i have a question im currently pretty new to designing pipes and im making a pipe for an mhr team 2 77 am6 but whats some good software to do the calculations

Superb!!! I am currently rebuilding an am6 engine and need a pipe. Any chance of a link to your section dimensions. Much appreciated

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Hi and thanks. What cc is your AM6? The dimensions for the pipe are in one of my vids but I can't remember which one. If you drop me an email I'll send you the dimensions Autobeta2t@yahoo.com

If you use a MIG welder you wouldn’t have to mess about with all the clamps. You could hold it with one hand and buzz a quick tack with the other

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

True, but possibly the excess material left with the mig would require it being removed that could cause additional time required. I may have a go with the mig to see how it goes. Cheers for watching and have a very merry Christmas ⛄

What program to calculate you use?

@AutoBeta2T

9 ай бұрын

Hi, I used EngMod2T for this one starting with a base design known to work. I also use Graham Cokers' exhaust calculator which works extremely well: m.facebook.com/groups/671081149638729/permalink/3119951054751714/

I'm no authority on expansion chambers by any means so feel free to correct me. I do weld a bit though so here goes. Being such thin material, logic to me dictates , would it be stronger to stagger the seams so they don't all run together. Perhaps try to crush 1 ring by itself and see how the joint holds up. If it is stronger at that point, by the opposing stagger method would it give it more rigidity ?? I would be interested in your thoughts. However As you already run the seam in a straight line have you come to the conclusion it's stronger this way or just for visual evenness . ?

@AutoBeta2T

9 ай бұрын

Hi, I generally put them in a line so the angle is correct, if you turn them it shallows the angle of the bend. However, I too have wondered about how it affects the strength. I would have thought it would want to weaken but in reality the rings stay in very good shape. I think it helps as most cone ends meet at an angle making it nearly impossible to bend very easily. So I guess a mixture of aesthetics and keeping the correct bend in the pipe.

Need all size and paper of cutting size

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Hi - are you after the pipe sizes?

Gidday Mate, thanks for your video on making an expansion chamber.What was the metal you used please? ive got a bantam that i want to make less ugly.i reckon if i can get it lookig,sounding and goig like i hope it will,i might be able to knock it out to one of these dicks looking for "investment condition" classic bikes. With a backstory like,"it was used by the young Frey Bentos in the welsh reverse hillclimb. good on you mate pat

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Hi Pat, I got the metal from here. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223575488268?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IcPlBqziTCy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=rNYQvC4RT7e&var=522320678669&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It's the 0.8 mm mild steel sheet. It forms and welds pretty good too. Haha, Frey Bentos 🤣 You've got me hungry now - 🥧 and 🍟's for tea (with gravy) tonight.

what stainless is that sir..

@AutoBeta2T

6 ай бұрын

Hi, mild steel sheet. CR4, 0.8mm thick

@kingbarcarsi5661

6 ай бұрын

@@AutoBeta2T thankyou sir..can i use 304 or 201 stainless

@kingbarcarsi5661

6 ай бұрын

@@AutoBeta2T sir send me that pattern pls how to make chamber and cones..

@AutoBeta2T

6 ай бұрын

@kingbarcarsi5661 hi, I don't have any patterns in electronic format. I print them from MOTA straight to paper. I do have the pipe design if you want that?

@kingbarcarsi5661

6 ай бұрын

ok sir..thankyou..

pegalo con iman a los papeles

@AutoBeta2T

Жыл бұрын

Cheers - I'll try some magnets.

You actually think that file has any flex in it? Bwahahaha

@AutoBeta2T

5 ай бұрын

Hi Phil, I'm not quite sure what you are getting at? I said I use it because it is rigid.