Make your own Table Saw Fence Version 3
This new version of the table saw fence is easy to make with some standard aluminum extrusion parts you can buy with a local supplier like below.
Because of the strong metal parts combined with the wooden locking clamp and the plastic sliding parts (see link below) it was possible to make a professional sliding fence that when locked will be instantly be perpendicular to the saw.
By using this aluminum rigid frame it is possible to saw plates within a tolerance of 0,5mm or less.
The high fence means it will be easy to saw thicker beams and plates, however with thicker beams it is better that you will end the fence not past the end of the saw as I did. This is better for normal plate material but with thicker wood the fence should stop around the centre of the saw blade.
Maybe a future fence design will feature an adjustable placing from the fence, to switch between thicker beams and plate material.
It was a very fun project without big problems because the extrusion profiles allow easy fine tuning afterwards.
There are more suppliers like this one, but this is the more local one where I bought my parts.
I only used 30x30mm extrusion profiles:
www.aluxprofiel.nl/aluminium-...
The nuts for in the profile are:
www.aluxprofiel.nl/inklikmoer...
An 1 bolt to mount afterwards in the profile slot:
www.aluxprofiel.nl/hamerkopbo...
These connection plates where used to combine 2 profiles to make the higher fence:
www.aluxprofiel.nl/verbinding...
The 90° connecting corners between 2 perpendicular beams are:
www.aluxprofiel.nl/verbinding...
Plastic sliding part to slide 2 profiles over eachother:
www.aluxprofiel.nl/profiel-gl...
Пікірлер: 10
great installation Kim, xhat a design and superb extra tool for straight sewing.. good job man 👌
That looks fine. Eventually I'm sure my Makita MLT100 fence track and clamp will fail. The only downside to that design is it makes it difficult to use a sliding tenon jig to fit over the fence🤔
@kimvanderhoven8310
6 ай бұрын
Hi Sean that is indeed right, I've never used a sliding tenon jig. But you can find on the suplier website a combined 30x60mm profile instead of 2 30*30 profiles stacked on eachother. Do you think this can help?
@seanwilson471
6 ай бұрын
@kimvanderhoven8310 yes, now I think about it, another section of aluminium extrusion on top would clear the angled brace. At the moment I have used a piece of extrusion at the back of the table and some 80mm for the fence. It bolts down at the back to prevent movement. My clamp still works ok. I have 2 different plywood faces that bolt to the fence to make it a flat face with a dust groove at the bottom. One face is full length which is fine for sheet material. The other is a short face which only goes as far as the centre of the blade spindle. This is important when rip cutting along the grain of solid wood. All dedicated commercial rip saws have short fence which prevents nipping and kick back. Once the blade has cut the material the fence serves no further purpose in a rip cut other than putting pressure on the material as it passes against the back of the blade which is lifting your material and pressing against the riving knife. I've noticed that so many hobby and jobsite saws have long fences. I see why they use them, especially with the cheap light weight construction the use of a rack and pinion fence but really a sub fence should be made with the package for rip cutting.
@kimvanderhoven8310
6 ай бұрын
@@seanwilson471 Very nice!👍
Wat ik wil vragen: Hoeveel millimeters verschil zit er op het begin en het einde van de zaagnaad?
@improvethings1493
9 ай бұрын
Hi Ann, the test piece I made on the end of the movie had a difference of 0,3mm, the saw length was about 600mm long.
It's complicated sir!
@improvethings1493
3 ай бұрын
I'll try to make it more clearly in the future👍