Just found your channel (and subscribed) - very interesting and informative. I've only heard Magnepans 1 time, back in the early 80's if I recall correctly, they totally blew me away. I've wanted a pair ever since but circumstances have never worked out. Might be able to swing a pair of LRS's someday - fingers crossed. Kudos on your channel & videos.

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Awesome, thank you! Stay tuned!

Great video, Chris. All the info was spot-on. Keep up the good work.

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. I try to keep things interesting.

I did a similar thing with my Totems when I was using a st70 tube amp . I used a rca high pass filter to make the same goal. Works well and is easy to use.

The ideal subwoofer setup for open baffle speakers like Magnepans are open baffle subs. My favorite of these by far is the Linkwitz W frame design (on his site). My second recommendation would be to go with a sealed enclosure subwoofer. In ALL cases, the subwoofer amp should have variable phase control for proper integration. Find the F3 of the main speakers ( F3 is the -3db response point) multiply by .71 to calculate the high pass F3 frequency for the subs. The Magnepans (open baffle and sealed enclosure speakers) will drop 12db per octave below F3 therefore the low pass filter for the subs should be 2nd order butterworth (most commonly applied with powered subwoofer systems). I recommend to NOT apply a passive high pass passive crossover in front of main speakers. It is better to have an acoustic transition to the subwoofer (as I previously explained). THEN you can also apply a simple 1st order subsonic high pass filter by inserting a film capacitor in front of the speaker's power amp (if you can). The F3 of this subsonic filter should be at least 1/2 octave lower than the acoustic F3 point. F=1/(2*pie*RC) where R is the input impedance of the amp. This way, the subsonic filter is not greatly affecting the overlap of the speakers and subs. For example, an amp with 47k ohm input R would need a .1uf cap in series with the positive lead that goes from preamp to amp to get a 1st order high pass at about 35hz. This is far enough below the acoustic F3 of the LRS. The benefit here is that the amp will not supply very deep tones to the speakers that makes them vibrate yet are not heard. This will lower intermediate modulation distortion which is one weakness of the LRS design. Subwoofer placement is all about the math of the room. A corner placement is usually the BEST default placement for a single sub because it best avoids room nodes. But that may be bettered with experimentation. If you do want to apply a passive crossover for your main speakers, the F3 of the crossover should be at least 1/2 octave higher than the F3 of the speakers. Don't use electrolytic caps. The expense of building or buying a pair of decent low frequency passive crossovers approaches the cost of an active crossover and amp combination.

Thanks. I bought a pair of Magna Risers because of this video.

I do something similar with my .7’s, Goldenear Triton 2+, and Parasound Halo integrated (model just before Halo 6). I use the sub out on the Parasound (it’s stereo summed to mono), set the crossover to 100Hz, rca cable to the LE in on the Triton’s, which have their own DSP controlled, built-in subs. I did check with both Parasound and Goldenear to ensure the logic was sound and they agreed. Saved me having to purchase separate sub(s) for the .7’s. And this set up does exactly what I wanted: rounding out the bottom end a bit. I only use the Maggie’s for classical, so there isn’t a lot of heavy bass work anyway, but I always felt I was missing just a bit of something with things like contra bassoons.

I have Magnepan .6 with MiniDsp 2x4. Also two Anthony gallo TR1 subs. It sounds great.

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. Glad you are happy.

Thanks so much for this video. I've been planning to change fuses in my Maggies but didn't want to pay $20 or more for "audiophile" fuses.

Hi I'm also from the DMV. I did the third option last year to my MG12, you really need 1 per front channels. I have 2x Polk dsw550 pro. They have speakers level in and out. Set to ~60hz crossover. My setup is a 4.2 system. I have room running correction too.

Just what I need in my life, another Well Done audio Channel! 😬 Now, I'll get nothing done!🤔🤫🤗😉😇

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

That's my evil plan! ;)

Also! Put your sub where YOU sit and walk around and listen to where the bass sounds the best. Mark that spot with an x and put your sub in that new location and you’ll have great sound.

@mikw1809

3 жыл бұрын

That's not a very reliable way, why not just get a measurement microphone and use software like REW to tune the crossover, levels and adjust EQ to tune out problem room modes.

@nickparkin8527

3 жыл бұрын

@@mikw1809 room nodes happen because of placement and cannot be fixed using software. All you’re doing is adjusting the bass to sound good where you’re sitting and if you move elsewhere you’ll experience nodes. The method I outlined above works very well I’ve used it reliably many times

@nickparkin8527

3 жыл бұрын

Nodes are the result of the fact that bass wavelengths are too large to fit in your room, so they reflect back constructively/destructively interfere with themselves creating nodes. You cannot minatureuze a sound wavelength. 20hz is something like over 70 feet long.

@mikw1809

3 жыл бұрын

@@nickparkin8527 "Put your sub where YOU sit and walk around and listen to where the bass sounds the best. Mark that spot with an x and put your sub in that new location and you’ll have great sound." Can you explain why your "great sound" solution works? Can you provide the math to explain what is happening that constitutes an improvement in sound quality? The problem I perceive is that my ears are not 2 inches from the floor where I sit, and my sub faces down, but not all subwoofers do. If I move a speaker even one inch from it's position or move my microphone more than an inch from it's measurement location, I get a different frequency response. With EQ done correctly, I am able to get a much flatter response in bass. Who said anything about using software for EQ? I only use software for capturing the frequency response, the concept of using EQ is nothing new, sound engineers have been doing this since the 1930s. Every loudspeaker uses EQ via a crossover, and may contain a notch filter to tune a problematic range of frequencies that may be attributable to the loudspeaker resonant frequency or cabinet design. The room is no different to a speaker enclosure in that sense.

@mikw1809

3 жыл бұрын

@@nickparkin8527 "You cannot minatureuze a sound wavelength" Yes you can.. by reducing the gain of those frequencies before amplification ( in practice you reduce or increase the gain of a range of frequencies ). If that's not possible, then you need to let companies like Kef know that their Kube used in their legendary 107 that allowed Q and contour adjustment was a waste of time, and all the other manufacturers of equalisation / DSP products ( Technics / JVC /Behringer ) must have been selling fake products?

Good video! I think the best way would be to use the electronic crossover so we have a clean signal path to the magi’s. And if you want to take the sound to the next level one could use open baffle powered subwoofers. Full control over the low pass signal as well as much faster pass to match the high speed of the Magnipans. Just my two cents…😜👍

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. There are many ways to approch it. I tried to keep things simple and low cost.

Very insightful video! Thank you. If I may make a suggestion, please consider viewers from Europe when recommending parts.

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Great suggestion! Thanks for watching.

@BadgerMonkey

Жыл бұрын

Magnepan is an American company; I'm sure he'll do something on Wharfdale someday.

After trying many different setup options with a REL T9i sub, I must say I couldn’t agree more with your advice to skip the corner placement!

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching my video. I think corner sub placement is probably best left to Home Theater LFE situations.

@davybloggs1564

3 жыл бұрын

matchedbook1 - I use a T9i with my 1.7i's and it's 'almost' in the corner; about two feet out at a 45° angle to the corner, which I've found to be the best 'overall' placement for it IN MY ROOM. I spent two days moving it around the room (22' x 16' x 9' ceiling), much to the annoyance of my neighbour upstairs!

@matchedbook1

3 жыл бұрын

@@davybloggs1564 Ha! I get it. Mine has migrated and is now 4’ out from the corner near my rack and bass trap in the corner.

Hi. Good video. I will watch your other videos. I have a pair of the Magnepan 1.7i. I have the MyeStands from Grant Vander Mye in Canada. I also have the Mike Powell Ag upgrades (replaces the fuse with a silver tube and the stock plate steel jumper with a silver one) and a pair of REL T/9i subs in a 2.2 configuration. The first two mods were significant improvements. But adding the RELs revolutionized the SQ and added air moving sub bass that the Maggies just can’t do. I have had no issues with the silver tube instead of the fuse. Just be careful as usual in how you turn on and off your preamp and amps and everything will be fine.

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much for watching. I agree, adding REL sub turns the Maggies into full range speakers.

@ufarkingicehole

2 жыл бұрын

I have a Dannie Richie crossover for the 1.7i. The highs are more coherent but I'm pretty sure I have something not exactly correct.

@boniccie

2 жыл бұрын

Is Mike Powell metal fuse makes that much of a difference vs a good quality ceramic fuse?

@ufarkingicehole

2 жыл бұрын

@@boniccie I don't Believe. I have them and it didn't seem to make a big difference BUT its been a long time since I did the comparison

@RJ_Chicago

2 жыл бұрын

@@boniccie Mike’s is not a fuse. It is a silver tube. So it has to be better than any fuse, because it is silver and not a fuse.

martin logan has a nice line of subs.the ten inch sealed is good for music with built in crossover selection and level control.

The folks at Magnepan quoted me 15 to 16 weeks wait for these. I'm in the queue... Chomping at the bit to get mine.

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. With the LRS, Magnepan are victim of their own success. Be patient, they are worth the wait.

@kylekemp4776

3 жыл бұрын

I got lucky about a year ago when I got my LRS speakers... ready for a upgrade to 1.6/ 1.7.

@josephchamberlain3681

3 жыл бұрын

@@kylekemp4776 not big enough for the space you're in?

@MichelLinschoten

3 жыл бұрын

Won't take that long my buddy they said the same for 3 sets of lrs, 12 weeks...he had them in 6

@MichelLinschoten

3 жыл бұрын

@@josephchamberlain3681 I went from a mmgi (basically a lrs) to a Tympani I You cannot go big enough with them

Very interesting, great content!

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it

thank you very much . very good !!

I ran MG1 in the 70;s - MG1 IMP Tympani 1D in the early 80;s - mainly piddle in decrepit old age with horn and Karlson stuff. Have owners tried charge coupling the high pass crossover ? (could get expensive with boutique caps but not bad with regular caps - I've used MGGO and KBG on compression driver coax)

Just saw ur video. I installed the Synergistic Orange fuses in my Focal Solo 6 (s) and like a vail was lifted! Absolutely incredible upgrade. Pricey, but next to upgrading the power cords, just amazing!

@mikeiver

5 ай бұрын

I call bullshit! Proper double blind and you will chose the changed gear 50% of the time. A fuse and a power cord will make zero difference in the sound, ZERO! The world is stupider for your posting. On the plus side, you wasted hard earned cash on complete bullshit snake oil audiofool stuff.

@spudpud-T67

4 ай бұрын

@@mikeiver You do have to wonder. Overkill cables inline with a basic 3 amp fuse. There is a weak link here. Cables do have audible differences but that is; different, not necessarily better. Looking inside many boxes the connections are 1mm lead leads between caps and resistors etc yet we need 10mm thick oxygen free cables. Emperor's new clothes.

@mikeiver

4 ай бұрын

@@spudpud-T67 OFC cable is just silly. When we replace thin cable between the speakers and the amplifier there is a good reason bit also there is a limit too. We are looking to allow the amplifier to control cone movement, IE: dampening. Considering the output impedance of the amp and the load of the speakers the resistance of the wire actually matters. Actual and proper double blind testing of one set of cables and another will reveal no difference between two cables of equal size but different construction. Snake oil is all they have and there are sadly a bunch of idiots with deep pockets to be fleaced

Hi, where is the B roll on the high pass filter you mentioned. Thanks

I'm also completely replacing the stock crossover with one from GR-Reseach. It has very high quality poly caps and air core inductors. Plus it keeps the tweeter section from playing as low as factory crossover eliminating need for cheap fuse. And finally gets rid of the crummy factory speaker terminals and all that sound degrading ferro magnetic parts.

Awesome vid, exactly what I needed. Though I think I'd prefer to mod the 1.7i's. The size to performance ratio to cost ratio might be the end game sweet spot for me...size of anything higher in the range is too much.

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. The larger Maggies bring benefits but may be larger that some people have room for.

I have the Lyngdorf TDAI 1270 which has a build in cross over for this purpose.

Hello, just one question: How LRS compare to 1.5qr? I mainly mean in sound quality more than in soundstage. Thank you

I missed the slow blow audio fuses you need for the MG tweeter.

At 3:40 you mention an eight week backlog for the Magnepan LRSs. When I ordered them in September, 2021, I had to wait five months to get them. At that time I paid $650 plus shipping, but I believe the price in April, 2022, is $750. I love the LRSs but I knew almost immediately that I would need subwoofers to be happy, so two days after the LRSs arrived I ordered two REL T/7x subwoofers (I wanted front-firing subs) on Amazon at $1,000 each. Both the LRSs and the T/7x (actually the T/7i, the earlier version) were in the Absolute Sound magazine list of "50 Greatest Bargains in High-End Audio." I am extremely happy with my system; it sounds fantastic. Ironically, the least expensive part of my system, the LRSs, drove the decision regarding the purchase of every other bit of gear--except the phone--in the front end, and every piece is more expensive than the LRSs. The front end is: KZread Music on a Google Pixel 4a phone to 10' USB cable to Schiit Bifrost 2 DAC to Schiit Freya+ preamp to two Schiit Vidar amps as monoblocks. I am using the RELs in High Level mode when attaching to the Vidar amps. With the Schiits, the RELs don't get any hum so I don't need a ground; the black wire is just left hanging (covered by electrical tape). When I switched the speakers and subwoofers to my Yamaha AV receiver to try them in a TV theater setup, I got a lot of hum, so I attached both black wires to the phono ground on the back of the receiver.

@Munakas-wq3gp

2 ай бұрын

Just FYI there is no difference which way a sub 'fires' since it's omnidirectional on its full operating range...

@travismcgee100

2 ай бұрын

@@Munakas-wq3gp Omnidirectional does not mean magic. Yes, the low frequency wave will reach me at some point in time. Don't we want it as time aligned as possible? If I put the subwoofer 100 yards away from my mid-range and tweeter will that affect how the music sounds? I am guessing it will, so now we are talking about what degree of "misalignment" we will accept. I will take the front-firing subwoofer and pretend to myself it is working better than down-firing only. Save yourself some money and get the down-firing only version. Don't be a fool such as I.

@Munakas-wq3gp

2 ай бұрын

@@travismcgee100 A 20hz wave is 17 meters long. It makes zero difference which way your woofer points in a 2 by 2 foot sub box. The bass waveforms are so long that your ear loses the ability to detect the phase (and direction of sound) around 80hz and lower. At that point it makes zero difference which way your woofer points at as long as your sub is correctly in phase with the rest of your system.

@travismcgee100

2 ай бұрын

@@Munakas-wq3gp Just to be clear, don't you mean "near zero" instead of zero? In a single small source, does distance make zero difference or near zero? How about a rear firing only versus a front firing only subwoofer? Still zero difference? Does having a bottom and front firing sub--both at the same time--make any difference? I am interested to know how much money I wasted.

@Munakas-wq3gp

2 ай бұрын

@@travismcgee100 I mean zero difference. A human ear can't tell the difference in time or direction once the wavelength exceeds the distance from ear by a set margin and the room modes will cause significant disturbance... Only a microphone can pick it up and even that won't pick up a difference regarding to the face of the driver if the driver is correctly aligned with the rest of the system. The key here is correct alignment - if your sub is in correct phase it doesn't matter if it points up, down or sideways. It radiates omnidirectionally. The only scenario where the direction can be audible is if your sub is not actually a sub and radiates also midbass. You don't want that in most cases though. You'd need to have a stereo pair of 'subs' in order to maintain a stereo image for starters.

Chris, What CD drive and DAC are you using? Thank you....

would you need 2 emotive subs or could you use one. Is there 2 channel in with outs for both speakers?

Very interesting.

Interesting video. How do the fuses and copper bar measure against the fuse which is supplied with the speakers?

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

I don't know how you would measure fuses in this context. Some believe different metals/materials have different sonic characters. In the scheme of things there is likely only a very small difference.

@tc-bladeofgrass6719

2 жыл бұрын

@@DIYHiFiLife i was being facetious. I'll tell you without measurement, replacing those bits of metal will make no difference. They would have to have terrible RCI measurements for that to have an audible effect, and I find it beyond the realms of possibility that a company like magenpan would use such a material.

I've had Maggie 1.6 for over 20 years and never blew a fuse. I think at this age the risk is low enough to remove them. I either am putting better fuses or just going to redo the crossover and just remove fuses altogether.

The best way to run a high pass filter is to simply put a cap on the positive on connection between pre and power amp. This not only takes a load off the main speakers, but off the amp. The cheap ones from Amazon are garbage, but super simple to build and you can spec high end poly caps. I'm doing mine integrated into an interconnect cable using Jantzen Z-caps.

Why would the Twitter blow? Is this in case the capacitor fails in a crossover? No other speakers have fuses like this

Since posting this video have you finalized what modifications you have stuck with for best results

Instead of using fuses (any kind) to protect tweeter/or any drivers you can put in parallel to the driver a couple of zener (back to back) of the right voltage (based on the driver specs) so no additional component will be on the signal line. Respected speaker brands have used this solution even in their best and costliest models... Infinity and Klipsch are the first ones to come to my mind.

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching and the suggestion.

I'm considering running the LRS through a sub (maybe an svs 1000) with a built in high pass filter. Would you recommend an 80hz cutoff or maybe 100hz?

@peerguy

3 жыл бұрын

I am waiting for my LRS to ship and ha e researched a ton on crossover. It is recommended to crossover around 50-60hz if your processor / receiver can do it. It’s below 50hz where it gets distorted and can easily do 60hz. Obviously try it and let us know what worked for you and your room.

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Keep in ming that an 80hz High Pass Filter will actually start to effect higher frequencies such as 100 hz. I think 80hz is a good starting point and is a standard across the industry.

@Munakas-wq3gp

2 ай бұрын

50hz is the maximum crossover frequency that works in a typical room. A sub is not a midbass. If you have 3 or more subs then you can get even higher cutoffs working. Above 50hz the sub will start to localize which will effect the stereo image (and often room modes are 80-100hz which should be avoided)

I use the 80 hz 4 ohm hi pass inline filter with my 1.6 Maggies

Whether the tube of the fuse is glass or ceramic, the wire inside is the same, as are the Brass endcaps - Brass is awful for signal transmission as it contains so many impurities. So, I would say 'expectation bias' is firmly at play here! Sub Position - if I do as you recommend and place my T9i in the centre of the room between the speakers (1.7i), then I get very little added/perceived bass at the seated position. Right next to, on the inside, of one speaker gave acceptabe results, but not visually or for convenience, as I had to step over it all the time, but then spent two days experimenting a good position, which I found to be at the opposite end of the room - almost, but not quite in the corner, about two feet out, at a 45° angle, which put it in the same plane as the listening position, in my 22' x 16' room, with a 9' ceiling.

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. Sub positioning is one of great audiophile indoor sports. At least by separating out this frequency region you have the flexibility to experiment. Some feel a number between 2 or 4 subs in a room is ideal. WRT, fuses. As I said some believe the best fuse is no fuse but it voids your warranty. I have read that ceramic fuses are possibly better from a protection point of view.

what do you suggest for power minimum

Have any of you actually upgraded / modified the passive crossover using better parts / values? If so, what did you do? How did it improve their sound? Can the "active crossover" be used to replace the internal stock crossover? If so, what did you do and how did you do it? It would seem that you could use an active crossover to connect to each of the two mid & treble panels, while bypassing the bass to REL subs that would allow tuning of the crossover points. Has anyone done this? If so, what did you do and how did you do it?

P.S. I did try the ceramic fuses and is FAR superior!

@Munakas-wq3gp

2 ай бұрын

I put a fully ceramic fuse to my amp and the signal to noise ratio improved by 100%. Pure silence.

@mikeeygauthier2959

2 ай бұрын

@@Munakas-wq3gp then if u heard that, try some high quality fuses like Synergistic Orange or purple or even the outrageously expensive Master fuse! That’s were I’m at!!

At line line level between preamp with a y splitter would be using Harrison high pass 😅and to your sub use a Harrison low pass. Whilst Rel are excellent lessers subs low pass filters are often very ineffectual

Its a high pass filter . . . get the 100hz model. Rolls off lows from below that, so the mains dont have to stress to repro 30hz notes. The filter, in my modest system, works well. The amp cruses in this setup . . . caveat, you must use a self-powered sub.

What about the BIC F12 subwoofer over the Emotiva SE8? I believe it also has a high pass filter according to the manual's description of the crossover. Great video by the way!

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. I looked up the specs on the BIC F12 but couldn't determine if it had a high pass filter. If it does you are good to go. Otherwise I still believe the Emottiva is a good value way to go.

Instead of fumbling with alternative fuses : remove the panel on the back and place the connector/wire of the jumper on the + side and mount it together with the + connector. Now you bypass all the restistance of the fuse and jumper. Can be done in 10 min with a screwdriver and spanner.

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. You could do as you suggest but it would void your warranty. I wanted to give people and option that allow some experimentation but was easily reversible. Ideally, MP would recognize that everyone uses subs with their speaker and build in a high-pass filter directly into the speaker.

what did you take credit for ?

great!

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching.

@dilbyjones

3 жыл бұрын

@@DIYHiFiLife hey! Gotta feed the algorithm!

Great channel. Hi every one, could i use a ROTEL RA 971 Integrated Amp to power the LRS's?

@craigcoughlin1834

3 жыл бұрын

Looks like your Rotel would not be ideal. The power rating is "70W per channel into 8 Ohm, and 95W into 4 Ohm". Magnepans need high current from an amp that can double its power output into a 4 ohm load.

@olegyamleq7796

3 жыл бұрын

@@craigcoughlin1834 OK, thanks. I will keep this in mind.

@peerguy

3 жыл бұрын

You would have a high risk of going into auto shut off. No way you’re going to be happy with this amp powering the Maggie’s. I used to drive Polk LSI speakers (4 ohm) with a pioneer receiver and didn’t realize their potential until I upgraded to the Emotiva XPR amps. I’m powering LRS with Emotiva with a Emotiva XPR-DR3 (650 watts per channel all channels driven) and it sings

@olegyamleq7796

3 жыл бұрын

@@peerguy OK thanks. I will keep this in mind.

A question about the high pass filter, does it get hot? I’d rather put it in a case than have the intervals exposed, so I’m wondering if heat is an issue?

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

So far I have not noticed any heat issues. I have ordered parts for an inexpensive case for aesthetic reasons. I will try to make a video of the build process. Should be very simple.

@shahidyt

3 жыл бұрын

@@DIYHiFiLife I look forward to future videos and thank you for sharing your experience

@peronnikbeijer213

3 жыл бұрын

Not it won't get 🔥

I installed the fuse bypass kit from Mike at OCD, it is a silver bar cut to size and filled with an anti-resonance material. I’m sure I experienced burn in when adding the bypass for a few minutes I thought something was wrong as the top end didn’t appear to be there and then it came through after a few minutes. I did have to get pliers to squeeze the fuse holder terminals close together for the LRS. I think I’m hearing a difference, but will need to switch back to the stock fuse to confirm. I have the same stands, very nice indeed and the couple who run the business seem very nice too. Did you try the jumper cables out? Mine are still sealed, I wanted to experience the upgrade of the stands on their own, so didn’t add the jumpers and forgot about them. I already had Kimber Kable 4TC jumpers installed already. As for subs, I went down the 2 x SVS SB-1000 route. I have them tapped in to the speaker posts on the Hegel Röst amp as Paul McGowen recommends. I did see OCD Guy’s video on how he uses active crossovers, I did look in to doing the same, but I think I needed separate Pre and Power amps, so wouldn’t work with my integrated amp. I’ll check my subs to see if it has a high pass crossover. Great video, hope to see many more.

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. Looks like you are making good progress on your optimizations. I am using the Magna Risers jumper cable. I've got a bunch of video ideas planned. Just need time to record and edit. Stay tuned.

@rickscheck5330

Жыл бұрын

What frequency did the OEM fuse resonate at?

@shahidyt

Жыл бұрын

@@rickscheck5330 sorry, I don’t have measuring instruments and it was 2 years ago, so I wouldn’t remember. I’m not using my hifi system at the moment, I lost interested in the hobby, I need to sell me equipment as it is taking up space

@Munakas-wq3gp

2 ай бұрын

I installed a silver bar that was re-casted from a silver bullet that killed a werewolf. Now the speakers just howl.

Would have been nice if you pointed the camera at the items you were describing so we could see with our own eyes. (No offense, but staring at you for 31 minutes is quite boring). I have the MagnaRiser stands on my LRS and agree with your comments. Thanks for posting your vid. I have subscribed!

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

I will strive to do better. Thanks for watching and subscribing!

Using the hp filter in the emotiva completely collapsed the Soundstage

Is one of these crossovers required for each speaker?

@ctbarker321

9 ай бұрын

Yes.

Hi, Thanks for the very informative video About the high pass filter does it sound better? Regards

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, absolutely. With all the tweeks I have made to my setup, I am getting the best sound I have ever heard in my room. I am really pleased, and hope others can take advantage of my discoveries. Thanks for watching. Stay tuned.

Revolution Power has Acme silver cryo fuses for $16-$20 per fuse

Nice video! I think you will be better off by using an active crossover. What you did is theoretically correct, but you are adding more components between the amplifier and the speakers( the speakers also have their own passive components) which wastes more energy from your amplifier. In other words, the overall sensitivity of the speakers are reduced which make your amp more difficult to drive the speakers . Furthermore, the signal will be smeared slightly to heavily by that passive high pass filter. From what I see, those are cheap electrolytic caps and iron core inductors which I am 100% sure they will take out some certain level of clarity of the signal from your amp. If you try back and forth with some songs that don't have low bass, you will get what I mean. Thanks!

@kozmiczian

Жыл бұрын

His filter he's showing is a high pass filter, don't misunderstand, it only affects lowfrequencies. Iron core inductance, and electrolytic caps will not influence the souund as much as in the highs. Put the filter in line, from your subs outputs, to filter, to inputs of mains (direct wired, soldered). It passes all freqs, above 100hz, to the mains . . . and dead ends everything below 100hz. Freqs above 100hz pass directly to mains without passing the high pass filters circuitry. Works like a charm, makes my inexpensive Micca RB-42s sing like LRS s. 😊

What is the specific type of fuse you were showing? I have subscribed.

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

I have a link in the More Info dropdown - Bussman Fuse - www.newark.com/eaton-bussmann-series/bk-abc-3-r/fuse-cartridge-3a-6-3x32mm-fast/dp/48K9327?CMP=e-email-sys-orderack-GLB

@peerguy

3 жыл бұрын

Good one! Essentially “I subscribed, so tell me, or else” :)

Would like to give some more information on how to order the Maggies in the Netherlands for 1090 but my comments get removed every single time. No clue why.

@rudi_nieuwenhuis

2 жыл бұрын

Ok, maybe it's because I wrote in Dutch before. Let's try English: You CAN get the LRS for 1090 in the Netherlands now since a couple of days. It's true that there used to be a Dutch distributor that added a hefty margin so they would cost 1450 here. But after some emails with him where he told me that he has been making his money like that for 35 years, I contacted Magnepan directly. They were not amused by this and took care of it straight away. Now the European website (run from Sweden) gives you the option to ship to the Netherlands as well. Germany was already on the list.

By pass the fuses completely with 6mm diameter sterling silver bar stock. The difference is night and day.

@LeoRousseau

Жыл бұрын

Where would I be able to find sterling silver stock?

McMaster Carr has high purity 1/4" copper bar for a reasonable price.

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching and the tip!

I see the point of trying to relive the LRS from low frequency duties with addition of a high pass filter. The problem with adding a high pass filter is you’re adding more sound degrading components into the signal path. Moreover, that particular filter is made from some of the worst inductor (iron core) and capacitors (electrolytic) for audio quality. I prefer to run the LRS full without a filter with a subwoofer.

@hifiman4562

2 жыл бұрын

You can do a high pass just before the amp. There are many high quality capacitors to choose from. It's really not that bad.

@JohnLee-db9zt

2 жыл бұрын

@@hifiman4562 If you have a high resolution system, that capacitor is audible.

Need to come hear the LRS I never have

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Jerry, just let me know when you want to come by.

Just make a simple 6db slope crossover with higher quality air core inductors and a cap.

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. Iron vs Air core is debatable in the use case that I am illustraing (e.g. 80hz high pass).

I think it's funny to note the meager fuse wire supplied (and found satisfactory) by the makers of Magnepan is being questioned. Yet our enormous overkill speaker cables, are not. Our expensive cables must be right (perhaps to justify the cost) so the fuse must be wrong. Thinking outside of the (speaker) box imagine producing a new line of ultra thin speaker cables (could still be expensive, 😉) that everyone must now get to correct their systems.

I can confirm a sub is a must with these speakers I went with the Adam T10s, because Adam make fantastic studio speakers which I have experience with, so this is a studio sub but it works perfectly for home cinema and hi-fi, it has 2 selectable high pass frequencies, it will also take RCA or XLR balanced, it ticked every box for me. Plus having the ability to set your bass gain independently from the speakers is great as I tend to keep my bass low, not over powering or unnatural

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. I agree completely.

I would like to hear & try Maggy's LRS's but there is no dealer who "has them in to hear or can get them ...unless you want to pay first!. After owning many diff' e/stats, (& box speakers) ...i'm kinda addicted to the box'less sound of panels but i've never owned full'range ribbon like (the now'gone Apogee's or) the Maggies before. The LRS size implies there's going to be a shortfall of frequencies below 200 or maybe 300 Hz, (theoretically, on baffle width) from my e/stat experience, where subwoofers dont go, my REL Q-400 goes to 110'Hz top frequency & never helped any of my e/stats beyond superficially with home-cinema but music is my only prime hi-fi goal & the REL never musically "gelled' when they lacked output below 2 or 300'Hz ...the 'richness zone & mid bass-punch area. Do LRS go that low without being 3 or 6'db down? ...i never could find that spec'. When i checked u.k. prices when these LRS's were 1'st getting glowing reports, i was ready to buy "blind" untill i saw that we English get totally ripped-off by some entrepreneur importer or dealer with 50% mark-up of U.S. prices inc' delivery mark-up (surely theyre not that huge & heavy when packed for a £4 - 500'ish added del' charge to u.k.!) I was quoted various o.t.t. prices between £900 & £1200 all-in, for 1 (one !!!) pair of LRS. If i could get tham at U.S. prices of $650 per pair (450'ish £G.B.) i would deffinately buy 2 pairs & have the 2'nd pair with an adjustable low-pass filter added before the input sockets & have each 1 of those stand flush next to the untouched LRS pair ...for a +3'db gain below some adjustable frequency that sounds best (low-pass upto 250'Hz i reckon by width) that's if i could them at your price, you lucky U.S.'ers with yer 650 dollar LRS's with amazing reviews, I'm not jealous, just extremely annoyed by human greed & no Maggy dealers in UK for LRS, just folk ready to charge me 2 or 3 times the price i could maybe import the myself, i shall look into that now i thought of it

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. I am sorry that importing US made products is so onerous. Maybe time to talk to you local MP. I was born in England and have a great fondness for the UK.

How strange. So many people say they love their maggies yet there are endless videos about upgrading all of them.

As someone who is seriously interested in the Maggie world this is a much appreciated video. I’m trying to gather info on amps also, which I guess is the biggest Maggie issue. I have a Parasound 275 v2 and can’t get an opinion if this has enough current or not… But thank for the useful info!

@Pumpndump897

2 жыл бұрын

Looks like your amp would be Ok, 150 watts at 4 ohms. High volume would be a a bit taxing, but you may find that the maggies sound so good that no need to crank them up! See my post from today, It may shed some light. You will not need to go active like I did but you can in the future. I highly recommend that you just order the LRS and try them out they are magic!

Considering buying a pair. European price is ..... € 1.450,- which is $ 1.725.- at the time of writing. What a pity! Nice channel, chapeau!

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. Unfortunately, shipping costs are high.

@rudi_nieuwenhuis

2 жыл бұрын

Not true, they cost 1090 euro and can be bought straight from the european importer AudiioNord in Sweden.

@china1984able

2 жыл бұрын

@@rudi_nieuwenhuis Hallo Rudi, maar niet in/voor Nederland, België of Duitsland.

Show what you're talking about we be very helpful 👌

Never, Never, NEVER remove the fuse. The Magnapan is a very high current speaker and the tweeter wires are very small gauge (like 22). If you want high volume, the Magnapans are not efficient (like 86db) so to get to 100 DBA in the room, the tweeter wires are going to get hot from the amount of current you are pushing. The tweeter wires will get hot enough to separate from the mylar and start to buzz and rattle. That fuse will give you that extra protection to save you from needing Magnaplaner to refurb your speakers. $20 is a whole lot cheaper than just the shipping of the speakers. Subwoofer -- I run a 12" 1000 watt sub, I set the cross-over at the sub to be 80hrz. The high pass filter I also set at 80hrz, however, I run a second-order 24db / octave roll-off. I want to get the magies to roll off as fast as possible. Room coupling -- 300hrz wavelength is 1.4 meters, 400hrz wavelength is .84 meters. In a three-meter room (or ~10 ft) 300hrzwill have a full-wave length of 5.5' -- 400hrz will have a full-wave length of 3.2' -- both of those frequencies will give you a standing wave in a 10 to 12-foot room length. The male voice starts at 300hrz and goes up. Remember that A4 is 440hrz. As such 300 - 500hrz is a huge problem area for the creation of standing waves and nulls. I have a pair of MG1's "Early 80's" and I love them. Do not expect punchy bass, but do expect pure mids and highs. I drive them with a Yamaha B6 200-watt amp. These were made 2 years before Carver enforced its patent on X circuit topology.

@bryfar6178

2 жыл бұрын

What fuses do you use? I want to upgrade from the stock fuses in my 1.7i s, but Ive literally searched DOZENS of sites for 4 Amp FB 6.33mm x 32mm. All sellers out of stock. Dont carry this size or cost is $100 and up ea. My 2nd hand 1.7i s came with the silver links, but having a 40 year old pre amp & amp I didnt even try them. Thanks!

@todddembsky8321

2 жыл бұрын

@@bryfar6178 I use the 3A normal blow (not fast blow) fuses for my MGI. These are from 1980, and are 6ohm speakers. I blew the fuses at almost every party I had in College. Got tired of replacing fuses, so I wrapped one in tinfoil, then the tweeter got so hot that it melted the adhesive on the mylar and made a wonderful rattling sound. Wonderful speakers, excellent voicing, no bass under 100 hz, so I backed them up with an MK 1000 watt 12" sub crossed over at 150 hz. Good luck finding your fuses, If you can find a 3amp fuse, the fuse will blow before the 4amp fuse, however, those should be easier to find and will blow before a 4amp will, so you will not be able to run as much amperage through them.

@bryfar6178

2 жыл бұрын

@@todddembsky8321 I was curious as to what make/model fuses you use, but its a mute point now.. I was willing to spend more, but it seems all the manufacturers of audiophile fuses dropped their under $100 / fuse models. I just found some inexpensive "Gold capped" ceramic ones from UK. Maybe Ill get that "anticipation improvement" like the video poster here got. Thanks for your reply.

ONCE YOU REPLACE YOUR FUSE WITH COPPER, YOU WILL NOT GO BACK, A GREAT MOD..

Need A pair of crossover built for my HIVI 3.1 a. Speakers anyone

Geez - if you are going to bypass your fuses, just solder a wire across the fuse holder pads. Your biggest loss will be at the mechanical pressure connection on the fuse holder.

Please don't remove the fuse without a high pass filter. You can blow the tweater by switching on the amp.. ask OCD hifi guy. If you want a serious upgrade, have a look at the GR research kit.

@DIYHiFiLife

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching.

@BadgerMonkey

Жыл бұрын

A high-pass filter isn't going to protect the tweeter.

I also went with the stereo11 silver fuse bypass and silver jumper upgrade l have the Magna Risers on order. I have two SVS Ultra 13 that l use with my .7's Maggie's l have the Oppo BD105 Blu-ray player and it has a sub out connection with DSP so l can set the sub crossover (I love my Oppo) Also l have an old Spectron class D amp that outputs 500watts@8ohm 650@4ohms & 1,200watts@1ohm also 65amps for 500 milliseconds As you know Maggie's love current/watts!!

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. You've got some nice gear. Yes, Maggies do like their power. Stay tuned for some Amplifier videos that might be of interest.

@Jack96993

3 жыл бұрын

@@DIYHiFiLife I would be very interested in your amplifier reviews as my Spectron is getting long in the tooth and may have to replaced as they can drop a channel as they get older. For my pre amp l use my ARC LS15 that l bough back in the mid nineties along with a VAC PA 100 100 tube amp that l still have. I also have the Exogal Comet Plus external DAC and a Audiolab 6000N streamer

I enjoyed your video, but please don't aim the camera into your mouth in the future; a pop and sibilance filter would be good too.

You put up a " new fuse" banner and then go off on a long speech... NO!!! :(

@DIYHiFiLife

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching.

In all reality the fuse change is placebo,you put a "better fuse" still clamped in a cheesy "rest of the crossover" I don't see how that would make any significant difference. If anything maggies biggest weakness in terms of build. Are their terminal plates. I can't remember seeing anything cheesier than that. Even cheap budget speakers under the lrs prices . Have better terminals than maggies. I never will understand why they still stick to that cheap junk. They can do so much better in that area. I've had the mgI,mgII, mgIIIa,mmg, Tympani I flagship, mmgw,smg currently the lrs due to size (I wanted smaller and newer) was tired of fixing up speakers. They all benefited from subwoofer, magnepan don't produce sub low. I won't run one without them. Without it, they just lack dynamic range .

changes a fuse ... thinks he ears more air ... sure buddy, crack cocaine is one hell of a drug ...

LOL, you lost me with the nonsense about a fuse making a difference in the sound. Seriously, and 100 dollars for "audiophile" fuses. Yah, I heard that spraying down your gear with gasoline gives the sound a liquid character and warms up the base and midrange. You wanna improve the sound. Replace the caps with good films and large guage aircor inductors. Better yet, go active bi amp. That you will hear, fuses? If I said what I really think I would have my post pulled down.

@FilipinaVegana

5 ай бұрын

Base? Of the speaker?

you shouldn't use the word Groovy. Yes, tell your audience to use a cheap fuse.@ 1$ replace it with the same cheap fuse By pass the fuse all togather. Then take two 2 ×6 nail the wood to the cheap feet THEN place Speakers out in the rain play for 2 hr. broken inn now Did you pay over $5 for the stands

Seriously???,copper bar???April's fools day right.

@spudpud-T67

4 ай бұрын

And is that copper bar oxygen free and HiFi quality.

0.7 I.M.O

Really a minute plus and you still aren’t giving me the thing that you tease me with in your tease tag line, shame on you and your click bate tag line. can you please give me something worth while.

I believe you need to address the frequency separation before the signal gets to the LRS Or you are not gaining any power from not amplifying the bass only to convert it into heat I think an F mod is better suited. I have everything below 80 cycles going to two pairs of public address woofers mounted open baffle solo baric and right next to and on the exact same plane as the Magnepan and it is better than the Rels I tried and the M&K I’m pretty sure the lack of a box as well as the di pole approach is the reason why it is not noticeable at all Its the best blending I’ve seen Steep slope and your going to be much happier The concept is more of an open baffle than a subwoofer And I am delighted with the results I got all my drivers from church upgraded sound system And the amps are the new crowns with the higher damping factor and I believe you will be amazed how the bass doesn’t sound like a box I think it’s the pressure and the di pole But I would bet if you could mount it on an exterior wall and lose the back wave it would still sound better than a box Try it out