The 4,5 on the nob when you put the nob upside down it stops on 4,5 volt and if you put the power pickups form the 720 under a 4,5 volt motor you can run it on 12 volt track

@MinifigJez

4 ай бұрын

Wow! I never knew that before. Thanks for sharing the info. When the knob is upside down, what makes it stop turning when the power gets to 4.5v ?

@houtwurm5516

4 ай бұрын

@@MinifigJez it hits a stud on the transformer.

@MinifigJez

4 ай бұрын

@@houtwurm5516 I have one in storage somewhere, I will have to get it out and give that a go! Many thanks for letting me know

You will have so much fun with this and I look forward to seeing how it develops. We bought an extensive 12v setup in the 1980s for our kids, so we own lovely classic Lego. We now have the trains running in pride of place in our Lego city. The 12v motors were not running reliably and operating them was a nightmare! If I had opened up the motors and reconditioned them I’m sure they would have worked. In the end they were all converted to Powered Up and have Color & Distance Sensors. They are more amazing than ever and do so much more. They integrate fully with the more modern trains and I make extensive use of the Powered Up coding for automation. I just love seeing classic 12 volt trains.

Hello. The 12V gray transformer will output to the rails between -12V and +12V if you don't use the black dial (like when you use the Technic "real" train power lever, that the pieces hare included on the original transformer box) or use it with the 12V faced up. If you use the black dial with 4.5V faced up, this will limit the rails power output between -4.5V to +4.5V (it reduces the angle it can turn). On any case, the lamps and actuators/buttons outputs stay at 12V (alternate). Please, use a multimeter to confirm the voltages, before connecting anything to the transformer.

@caetanator

4 ай бұрын

The blue era and gray era crossings are the same part, with different color. The gray era stitches, have the same base (that you show in the video). The manual ones, ware sold in pairs (left and right) and came with 2 blank covers for the switching part. The motorised ones, ware sold independently (left or right) and came with a motor to cover the snitching part. You could upgrade the manual switches to motorised version by buying the switch motor. The blue era switches can't be converted from manual to motorised.

Very interesting to see the old tracks! Keep up the good work man!

Nice haul! The switch points look good! The trafo's where pretty clean as well! I for now use 1 for my main layout and 1 for my "test-rig". I get most of my 12v stuff from the Netherlands and some from Denmark and Austria (shocking I know). The 4,5v is part is limiting the movement (it stops on the studs) of the trafo/regulator so you can safely use 4,5v motors on 12v tracks.

Great video, I do miss my 12volt set up, had most of the sets from my childhood but had to sell them to help pay the mortgage back in 2010, so I'm slowly rebuying them again. Keep up the interesting videos 👍

Wow excellent parts haul! I can't wait to see what you turn them into! Also massive congrats on hitting 7k subscribers!! You will be at 10k before you know it!

I think a certain BPB Discord has gotten to you!! Very exciting and that’s more than a great start to 12v!

@pastajensen

4 ай бұрын

What do you mean?

@knightsnigh4731

4 ай бұрын

We would never encourage people to take up 12v 😂

4 ай бұрын

Never, ever... Now 12v trains AND Monorail... ya all might be guilty there :D@@knightsnigh4731

Wow, great stuff!

Welcome to the club >:)

@BatteryPoweredBricks

4 ай бұрын

This is all your fault 😅

4 ай бұрын

Ha!, just as I blame you and the Discord for my own LEGO Train expansion... Trains love company ;) @@BatteryPoweredBricks

@Reker1million

4 ай бұрын

@@BatteryPoweredBricks I regret nothing