Thank you fort this! I really like your home made little inventions. ❤

the future is now! beautiful filming, sound design, pacing. I am in awe... the best thing is how the REVO handling sounds in this video, so satisfying!

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Haha, we couldn't NOT do that. :-)

Nice. Thanks. Some really helpful technical details.

Impressive video. Love your creative way of approaching techniques in lead rope solo climbing. Looks all very solid and thought through.

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Thank you, @andicolera3922!

Brilliant! Great problem solving, I’ve seen nothing close to your method. Shocked that climbers question using two ropes. Also shocked that many have no awareness of mitigating attachment issues. Please drink more beers for me and save the rubber stoppers, I haven’t seen those in Canada. Dean

Thank you Andreas for all these details!!! A long-awaited video 😉 but a worthwhile waiting 👍🏻 Double fishermen knot for tying the dyneema cord?

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Thank you, @aelena74. Yes exactly, double fisherman knot. The cord has a dyneema core and a PA sheath.

Nice. Need to drink some beers as well😂🎉❤

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Cheers! No cans though! :-)

I like your harness mods. I mod mine so I'm always looking for new ideas.

great video. I wonder what the function of the micro traxion is? were you using them? If they fail to lock, do the teeth damage the rope?

Who makes your red pack? The roll top + duct tape is a clever system for rope organization!

Wow, so much to say, amazing footage. But how do you walk around all day with balls of steel?

@andreastrunz2066 Thanks a lot for sharing your redundant flow method!!! I am so happy with it and climbed multiple very nice routes not far from my limit 🤗 still feeling confident and save. I did some modifications of course. Some I liked and I am sticking with it (Revo+Grigri for higher grade of redundancy aka red. due to diversity), some I went back to your approach (constant fig. 8 knot as end knot and const. funnels -> very bad for abseiling & emergency retreat). But two things I would like to know from you still: 1. is there any documentation about the redundant activation of the revo? I just dont want to ductape it until I really do understand the mechanism. Of course I successfully activated the mechanism while holding the „nose“ down. But I really need to understand. 2. would be interested in your method of seconding. I am currently trying out different methods of „Treppenaufstieg“ aka „ropewalk“ or „two-leg-jumaring“. In the climbing gym it seems like using two micro-trax, a foot ascendender and a bungee-cord while holding the rope directly with hands is fine and great, also because hand and feet are able to „obertake“ themselves . But on the rock my experience is you need jumars to protect your hands from not getting injured and pinched. What is your experience here? Best wishes :) Chris

@andreastrunz2066

Ай бұрын

Thank you, Christian! Great to hear this. Regarding the 'second level locking mechanism': This video shows it quite well, starting at min. 1'10": kzread.info/dash/bejne/oIVmw8mre9G0iso.htmlfeature=shared Around min. 1'25", you'll see the second scenario, where the 'nose' cannot move upwards freely and thus the excentric shoe cannot move past the 'nose's' bulge. So, either your fall's force will rip the duct tape and you'll see the REVO locked by the nose in the upper position, or if the tape were stronger than that fall's force, then the REVO would be locked by the excentric shoe that cannot pass the nose's bulge. Does this make sense to you? Regarding seconding: I have only been using this method on multipitch climbs that I want to lead and second freely. No jumaring on such LRS climbs so far. I like the fact of not having to change anything in the setup from leading, abseiling to seconding. Of course, you could jumar back up on one rope and leave one REVO on the other rope as a backup. Aid climbers will be a better source for information on the best jumaring techniques though. :-) Cheers! Andreas

@ChristianBehlen-fz4uz

Ай бұрын

@andreastrunz2066 Thanks so much for the fast answer 🤗 Yeah! The video answers all my questions about functional behaviour 🙈 Of course I revised this video before my purchase… But after I did my first experience with it, I was simply wondering about some aspects… But now everything makes sense… Also why it feels like you have to release tension on climbers side after catching a fall dynamically with rope slip but break locks at the same time - while „nose“ is not able to move due to tight break side. Really ingenious device! But I do understand why it was never successfull at the end 😢 Apperance not as confidence inspiring as grigri for example, only nerds are willing and able to understand the working principle and its benefits, and even for nerds some datails will never be understood, i think… And my personal experience after sport belay: also not my sport device because grigri is more comfy in hangdoging and projecting ;) but anyways such a great device - so happy to own one 🤗 And best probs for the engineering! To be honest I have drawn a scetch for a device maybe 10 years ago looking almost the same. My idea was also to have a bedirectional device alowing dynamic rope slip and having dead-man function… the only difference in the idea was the principle of it. The plan was building a fluid mechanical break (turbo / retarder / converter transmission…) slowing the climber down to an acceptable constant descending speed. But I think the centrifugal lock is the better option for such a compact and cheap design anyways. Also seen in the petzl asap and the sp. Yes, I do understand your way of seconding as a climb… and until now this was my approach as well. But as I would like to go big (lenght and grade), I think I have to find the fastest and most energy saving method for seconding 🤗 and yes, industrial / tree climbers are the most promissing consultants here… meanwhile I got some inspiration from an first ascender and a sports photographer today 🤗 Yeah, again I want to say thanks for your work and maybe we will see each other in the mountains some time ;) Cheers Chris

@ChristianBehlen-fz4uz

Ай бұрын

Btw… the „second level locking“ is actually more first level :D

Do you use the two revo's for the redundancy of the catch mechanism in case of a rope slip/break failure or is it more for the redundancy of having two ropes or both? What would be your biggest concern using one revo?

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

The two. Please check out this series' first episode about the WHY: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dppk0ZSEm5W7m7g.html

why did you duct tape one side of the revos? 1:35

@andreastrunz2066

9 ай бұрын

@coryupton669 I do this so as to prevent the REVOs from locking off involuntarily during the lead climb when moving very closely to the rock. The duct tape prevents the nose from catching on the rock but will rip in case of a fall (and even if it didn't, the REVO would still lock off, there are two locking 'modes' as you probably know).

Can you please elaborate why or when this would be safer than a single rope using upright (modified) Gri Gri? Love your method but don’t have 2 auto belay devices. Ps I use backup knots , but climb below my limit to be safe.

@allaprima

6 ай бұрын

*self-camming, not auto belay *devices😂

Felt like I just watched this video in one single breath ^^. Awesome! From time to time I practice top-rope-soloing, and I really enjoy it. I would love to try multi-pitch lead-rope-solo, but It feels like current device market is very limited on the options, it is really sad how there are so few alternatives to the Silent Partner device for this kind of climbing (with REVO and Gri-Gri being the only other options pretty much). Question: what size and length of rope are you using in this video (they seem heavy) and how do your ropes handle falls on double REVOs, are there any signs of damage to the ropes, do they twist? And, did you modify your double REVOs in any way to prepare for this kind of climbing? Also, I didn't notice it in this video, but do you fixate the ropes on quickdraws with some kind of rubberband or you are not securing them at all?

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Thank you, @1STstream. Regarding your questions: Please check out the other videos from this series. Should answer three of your questions. Yes I have fallen on this setup. No twisting, no damage to the ropes' sheath so far. There are reports of really hard (close to factor 2) falls where the single rope got damaged inside the locked REVO. With this setup I see ways of handling situations with a high risk of a hard fall (half rope technique, separating the two strands or providing some slack on only one rope to have some energy absorbed by the first rope's stretch and then the 'fresh' second rope). I haven't tested such techniques in real life yet; I mainly use this setup for easier long routes.

@RickyHarline

Жыл бұрын

The Eddy and Taz Lov and El Mudo are all acceptable solutions that in many ways far surpass the Silent Partner in terms of functionality.

@Sierranite

10 ай бұрын

@@RickyHarlineyes but the Revo is the only device that will lock in an inverted upside down fall.

@RickyHarline

10 ай бұрын

@@Sierranite I've used it quite a bit for LRS, it's nice but rapping on it sucks as does following on it. Makes for a great secondary device IMO but I want more functionality out of my primary.

Did you tie backup knots before the cache loops? Can't seem to see it the video. Or is it unnecessary with this setup?

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

No I don’t use backup knots. The quest for a setup that doesn’t require backup knots for me to feel safe was the actual motivation and reason for this method. For me, backup knots were the main ‚flow killers‘.

@Haziq29

Жыл бұрын

@Andreas Trunz fair point! I absolutely agree that it's a flow killer. Great video btw! Hope to see more contents like this.

Top notch stuff and you only have 200 subscribers 😅

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Haha, no need to promote my channel. Just sharing my niche method for a niche discipline within climbing. :-)

What do you think of using instead of 2 doubles a single long (3 homologations) used as a double from below with one head fixed to the harness and the other to the revo thunder to climb with a single revo? In this case the rope must always slide. Do you think it's sustainable?

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Thank you @emilianorosso1113 for bringing up this idea. I am not sure, though, if I understand it completely. Would you have to create a loop? I mean would the rope have to be directed through a karabiner at the belay?

@emilianorosso1113

Жыл бұрын

@@andreastrunz2066 I have a picture for you but I can't post it here . Have you a facebook account? Thanks.

@ChristianBehlen-fz4uz

Ай бұрын

Sorry, I am not sure I do understand your setup right… But if I do, I cant imagine a worse system 🙈 … As I understand you want to attach one of the ends of your single rope to your harnes, loop the rope through all quick-draws, the last belay and back to you through all quickdraws again, and then in your revo!? This would become the rope drag nightmare. And safety… no redundancy at all: single rope cut-> fall to ground; revo fails-> fall to the ground Maybe I did not understand… but what i understand 🙈🙈🙈

Nice system. What brand of ropes are those? And, are they ideal for your system? Thanks

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

These are rather cheap 8.5mm Tendon half ropes. I haven't done any systematic testing of different half ropes. Except for Edelrids Protect Line (with Aramid fibers in their sheaths which cause too much friction in the REVO and can actually fail in a norm fall), the REVO has been tested with various ropes available on the market and I would feel comfortable using any standard 8.5mm dynamic half rope from the market, like Edelrid Kestrel or Beal Opera.

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

ideally, I would test a rope with the REVO in a couple of hard falls (with a backup) to see if it remains without traces on the sheath. That helps me to feel safe on bigger climbs afterwards.

Do you feel safe with the Revo? Did you fall on it? How was the rope after the fall?

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Yes I feel safe, especially having two REVOs on two separate ropes. Never seen any signs of damage on my ropes after my falls. I don't see many realistic scenarios that could result in forces greater than the ones from the EN 15151-1 norm testing. Do you?

@kangdanlin

Жыл бұрын

i did one test with 10 mm beal rope. not a big fall, but it didnt go very well, and the rope was damaged. i never trust Revo , ever

Interesting. I was hoping you'd have gone more into your reasoning aside from "the redundant method", I'd guess it's to try avoid the possible repetitive unlocking? Are you using twin/dual ropes or two singles? A thing I noticed which I'm sure you were fully aware and it was easy enough, but at the end when you climbed above the anchor to free the carabiner you risked a >1 fall factor to your PAS, which seems to be a daisy chain so static, that'd most likely leave you crippled at best. If you're going to spend the money for two REVOs etc. to go soloing then I'd highly recommend also throwing in a PAS with dynamic rope like the Petzl Connect Adjust.

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Thank you @novadea1643 . Have you checked my other videos of this series? There's more about the WHY and also the gear used (half ropes, 8.5mm, but other types may work as well). Regarding the PAS: This is a basic rule in my eyes (not to risk a fall into your PAS of whatever type, ever). Personally, I see one rather hypothetical advantage of the Connect Adjust and one practical disadvantage for my personal use, that's why I stick to the looped daisy chain (works better for me for clipping the bag onto it when stacking the ropes).

@novadea1643

Жыл бұрын

​@@andreastrunz2066 Yes I did check out a bit of the other videos after making the comment but it was already late so didn't have time to watch them fully. Thank you for the answers, especially regarding the use of daisy chain as PAS. It's a very good rule of thumb to never risk falling on your PAS (of course accidents do happen) and indeed assumed you're fully aware of all the risks involved and have a good reason for using a daisy chain etc.. The Connect Adjust suggestion was meant more as a general "if you're thinking of doing this, might also want to consider getting a PAS with dynamic rope" than specifically at you, thou granted anyone that would benefit from that suggestion probably shouldn't be thinking about lead soloing with any kind of setup 🤔. Thank you for the in depth explanation and demonstration of your setup, safe sendings💪.

is this in north carolina? the trestle?

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

No it's in Eastern Switzerland, St. Gallen. Wanted to film on a multi pitch route in the Alpstein, but it was all wet on that day.

@stuart9587

Жыл бұрын

@@andreastrunz2066 gotcha! looks exactly like a climb here in the states.

@christianvogt8582

4 ай бұрын

​@@andreastrunz2066Wo in SG ist dieser Brückenpfeiler? Würde das gerne auch einmal klettern.

did you ever had a lead fall with this setup?

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Yes I have taken falls. We can take some falls on camera next time we get to film some more climbing sequences.

On ne voit pas la fonction du Evo dans une chute , dommage .

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

Oui il en existent plusieurs vidéos sur KZread qui montrent le fonctionnement lors d'une chute. Mais je vais filmer une chute et le montrer ici dès que possible.

@michelpognante3934

Жыл бұрын

@@andreastrunz2066 merci+++++++++

He never uses the micro traxx. why does he have them?

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

@coryupton669 the MicroTraxions are my cache loop managers. Please check out the rest of this video tutorial series for more details on that. The route in this video here was too short for them to come into play (usually I need them after about 20m of climbing).

why is rope being pulled through while climbing? especially at the end when clipping the anchors it seems like someone is belaying you and your explanation of the system simply ends when you start climbing? I don't mean to be rude, I just want to understand why you quit giving a detailed explanation after the basics of the set up on your harness, and neglect the twin ropes and counterweight parts of your setup. I understand lead rope soloing is the dark arts of climbing, but I feel as if this video is dangerous to the general populous as it creates an untrue expectation of safety in doing so. Also what the hell were you talking about with the duct taped micro traxtions to your harness??

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

@pie8882 thanks for pointing out questions that may arise when watching this episode alone. Or did you watch the other episodes (1-3) as well? Those should answer your questions. If not, please get back to me and I'll see how I can explain better.

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

My filmmaker friend and I thought it'd be better to split the content into six episodes since there's so many facets to the method. What we didn't cover is the basics of LRS (backfeeding, cache management etc.), there's so much content out there on those already. Maybe there's a way of linking the individual episodes to each other so people don't take any of them as a standalone message.

@andreastrunz2066

Жыл бұрын

And no, there's no belayer of course. :-) Just my filmmaker friend and me. The spot wasn't ideal for filming as mentioned in the description. Hope we can deliver an update from a real multi pitch wall.