One convenient feature of Mini-Z cars is the light controller built into the electronics. For FHSS boards like on this 4x4 truck, use the MZW429R part which is already wired up with two white and two red lights. On the mainboard, there are two different-sized 4-pin sockets. The LED kit pluges into the larger of the two. Kyosho has keyed everything unambiguously so there's only one way to connect the lights. FYI the second socket is for the optional gyro. I can't imagine when a gyro would be useful on a crawler though.
Let's plug things in and test things out first. Here I'm using the Flysky NB4 controller (with the RM005 module). The stock KT-531P transmitter can also control the LED lights. These LED lights are very bright. The white is of the cool white color like modern car headlights. On KT-531P, use the CH4 dial to control the lights. With this NB4, we need to reassign channel 4 first. By default, channel 4 is mapped to the momentary switch on the grip. It can only do full 100% or full -100%. Let's assign channel 4 to one of the analog dials using the ASSIGN menu. There are a few possible options. I'm picking the VR1-R dial. Click on its label, and change its Function to CH4. I'm also reversing the direction so that turning the dial clockwise increases the frequency of LED flashing until its fully on, and turning counter-clockwise makes them blink more slowly. I will say again that this NB4 radio is amazing. It's definitely the best transmitter for Mini-Z today.
Okay, let's look at the Jeep body and see how to get the LED bulbs to install into the designated light buckets. Not every Mini-Z body comes with LED light buckets. Fortunately designed as an offroader, this 4x4 Jeep has them. However, if we look closely, these light buckets are covered in a layer of hot glue, which holds a fake piece of bulb inside the lens to increase the scaled look.
I need to first remove the hot glue carefully and extract the bulb placeholders. I will use this pair of needle pliers. I will need to be sure to grab the hot glue, not any part of the plastic. After some twisting and pulling, careful not to stress the plastic body, the hot glue bit comes off. The bulb placeholder is simply friction held in the light bucket. The other headlight is more stubborn. Was there not a more graceful way to secure this part in the factory?
After this, do the same thing for the rear lights. Fast forwarding at 32x speed.
Now the difficult part is behind us, fit the LED lights into the buckets via friction fit. Now we are ready to plug the LED kit back into the chassis. Later I should tape the wires to secure them under the body shell.
Done! Again with today's Mini-Z, it's convenient these LED lights just plug in. There's no need to deal with an extra controller or tapping the battery terminals. The Jeep looks great with the headlight on. Rotating the channel 4 dial controls the flash frequency. I like the front light steady so I'm leaving it in the 100% setting. The brake light works! Normally, the tail lights are semi lit up, but if the truck drives forward and brakes, the intensity of the red light increases to indicate braking. That looks pretty realistic too. Part of the reason Mini-Z is a bit pricy is that these body shells are detailed and well-made. The LED kit fits right in and the result looks great. The details inside both the headlights and tail lights are spot on.
When there's no ambient light, it's easy to see the light leakage from the light buckets under the shell. I might try to find some black tape to wrap the internal assembly for more realism.
This is Sammy and thanks for watching!
Music:
"Ikson - Anywhere" is under a KZread Free license.
/ ikson
Music promoted by BreakingCopyright: bit.ly/anywhere-song