Love Nina Caprez but no one will ever use this in real life...

@liamhurlburt9794

3 жыл бұрын

Maybe if I were leading in blocks on half/twin ropes and at a hanging belay and there were winds blowing my ropes all over the place? But I definitely don't make a habit of climbing in high winds

@michalmalicki9613

3 жыл бұрын

My guide uses the first method all the time, though not with such a long sling. It's usually fast and clean. He leads all pitches so the 2nd method would not be convenient.

@mattiti8523

Жыл бұрын

I thought this too, but then a Chamonix guide actually recommended the system with the loops to me...

@vitalux11

5 ай бұрын

This system works fine, it's super neat and easy to use. Just need to get used to it. No risk of rope falling from lap or weird knots forming. You should try. But maybe instead of building a place for the rope, like with the sling, just tidy the rope directly in your relay system or dyna loop.

All of this is nuts. It would take you ages to swing pitches the first way and the second way the loops are crazy long.

this seems incredibly time consuming, inconvenient and niche. in a perfect world sure but not very applicable for the swiss belay set up

2.nd method only works fine if the follower are going to lead the next pitch. If you lead in blocks, start with short loops and coil them gradually longer, so when you flip the coil the short loops are on the leaders end. Also, for organising the belay; hang the coil on a sling beneath the anchor. so much better to belay with than having the rope over your pas.

@brunobohz

3 жыл бұрын

I was going to say this!! Long loops will get stuck with shorts ones in this case...

@melkorWTF

3 жыл бұрын

Instead of reversing the rope stack she is making it pass behind her, pivoting it kinda, so that the shorter coils stay on. Never thought of that but it sounds like a good tip. I tried to do it the way you describe before, and flipping the coils without making a total mess is actually quite hard.

@armeller5299

3 жыл бұрын

@@melkorWTF Oh I hadn't even spotted the "passing the stack behind" ! That does seem like something to try. I always make a mess if I need to flip :p

@Zorbas75

8 ай бұрын

​@@melkorWTFno sorry, that doesn't make sense. Have you checked it in the meantime? The leader remains attached on the same end of the rope 😊 so when she starts climbing she pulls on the longer loops. Didn't change anything.

I think the second method is faster, the first method is great for multiday adventures and if you are setting up a bivouac to sleep in. With the second method I always remind myself to keep my back turned in the direction of climbing for the next pitch, and stack my gear and climbers on the opposite side.

As a new climber, I need to utilize all these critical tips. Thank you for all your hard work and dedication to help climbers.

Ah yes the ol' tree at every single belay I arrive at LMAO come on

Nice tipps! Thanks :)

I will see you in Chamonix in 2021.

At the end constantly taking her hand off the brake strand while belaying! Yikes.

The real question is - what brand are those beautiful white slings?

@liamhurlburt9794

3 жыл бұрын

There's a Petzl logo visible at 1:43 on the tags. Those are Petzl pur'anneau slings Must say I'm not a fan of all the sling material just being white; that would make it difficult to grab the right sling off your harness especially if you're on lead, jambed in some awkward chimney, and only have one hand free. The Mammut contact is my favorite because of the distinct color coding, supple material, and the way the end is neatly joined to prevent snagging

Nina's method is fine when she's belaying one or two followers, as she can let go of rope to tie the knots and hang up the coils. But if there's nobody to help the belayer untie the knots on the next pitch, I'm not sure how easy it will be to untie them with just one hand while keeping the brake hand on the rope.

How about calling this two approaches to stacking rope at a belay. There’s aren’t any tips here on how to stay organized. Additionally, the first way shown to stack a rope will require faf while belaying and could easily cause you to short rope your leader and the other way is just what everyone already does. I love your channel but the quick tip videos you make at this crag often make me cringe.

First tip is ridiculously inefficient and terrible.

What is going on

No equalized anchors, HUGE loops of rope that will get in the way of the second climber, strategies that depend on extra anchor points (or attachment points). This will cause begginers to never want to go multipitch climbing again... * I know this is not a instructional video to show how to make a propper belay station, but with the reach of the channel, it seams like very little extra work to set up the station SARENE style first and then give the tips on how to manage rope.

@jgrrv686

3 жыл бұрын

True equalization never actually happens with an anchor and it is not needed with good bolts. Redundancy is the most important thing for an anchor and in this case Nina's anchor is redundant. She clipped in to one bolt which is connected to the other by a chain link. Super simple set-up and not unsafe in any way. As for the other anchor, you can't get a good look at it but it looks like two bolts connected with a large quicklink that acts as a masterpoint, so it's good to clip straight in to. Just because these methods aren't what you learned doesn't mean they're not safe. Euros and brits often use different anchor setups than we do so it can be useful to learn different methods for varying situations.

@Destort

3 жыл бұрын

@@jgrrv686 couldn't have worded it better myself.

@hahne9

3 жыл бұрын

If both bolts are bomber, there is really no point to equalize them. The recommendation is actually not to equalize in that case to be faster. Speed is actually quite important regarding your safety if you are on a long alpine route.

@armeller5299

3 жыл бұрын

This is a pretty popular crag - pretty positive the equipment in place is in great shape and those are bomber anchors - 2 bomber bolts, a bomber chain in between. Dunno why you'd bother equalising anything *unless* there's already a million people at the belay station when you get there, and you need to build your anchor on the side. I do agree those are huge loops (and that 1rst method is weird) though :D

barf

This channel is really not the place to get tech tips. OR has heaps better stuff

with all respect of Your achievements, but don´t You think it would be a good idea to show how You secure yourself with a second device, usually Your end of the rope? redundancy should be taught as a basic principle in all forms of climbing rather than getting Your clothesline on a wall...