Subscribed after you said let the music flow through your process. Exactly!

I have been a interior designer and have seen lot of artist, I was moved by a french artist but then I saw your work you are no less. You are second to none and Indeed you are a true representative of Faux-bois techniques.Hats of and lot of respect,for you technique and work.

You, sir, are a TRUE artist. This is simply amazing!

Jeff just awesome vids you make me smile and excited to keep painting!

Your work is one of the best on youtube. You are truly an artist. Thanks for sharing the video.

You are truly an artist. Thanks for sharing the video.

Jeff, Thank you very much for finding time to answer to me. It helped very much! Somehow I missed your first answer and today I got notification that you responded back. Thanks so much again!

This is really the best video on faux bois out there.

@JeffPollastro

8 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately some of my mentors haven't the resources or the will to make videos, otherwise this would be blown away! There are some awesome grainers out there, but perhaps I have more of an affinity for the camera and technology ;) Hopefully one day they'll post some of their work. I appreciate your comment, and thank you for spending time to watch it and post. Cheers!

Your work is like nothing I have ever seen. i am standing and applauding.. Im so completely taken by your skill of creating burl , i can't wait to experiment and attempt to copy your example. I thank you for making this video. It's superb and the very best i've ever seen...

@JeffPollastro

7 жыл бұрын

Well, thank you so much for this comment, Michael. As I've mentioned in previous replies to other commenters, I studied with one of the best in Pierre Finkelstein. There are others in France and some in America (like my brother Ryan) who are far better than I am. I am definitely better at making videos and posting them on KZread, though ;) KZread is a fantastic place for all kinds of inspiration. Thanks, again. I hope you have fun!

that's awesome, I was unsure at first but the final product is really astonishing

I have extensive experience in many faux-bois techniques and thought I pretty much "knew it all".....Dude, you have humbled me...(me bowing down in a grandiose, though totally sincere manner...) Oh yeah, and I also have serious "brush envy".....

What do you mean do not get frustrated? What a great job jeff!!!

Jeff! I hope you’re doing well. Please make some more videos! It’s been a long time! I’ve watched all of your videos a million times

@JeffPollastro

6 жыл бұрын

Gino and the Drone thanks so much for your continued interest. I have had to focus my videos specifically to try to get more work in the last few years, because my wife and I have kids now ;). In slow times (usually around January or February) I will try to make another instructional for you and those that want. I haven't stopped making videos, they're just much shorter and catered to designers and architects on Instagram - about 1 minute long each. It's difficult to make videos these days since most people expect :30 - 1 minute before losing interest. Thank you again, and I'll do my best to try to make a new one. Any recommendations on what kind of finish you'd like to see? I'll take it into consideration. Thanks.

Thanks, 79Espie. That's the great thing about the process. Layering adds depth and creates a realistic feel. Thanks for your compliment, and support. Cheers.

Amazing work

Wonderful to have seen this. An art really .... thanks.

Best yet

Thank you so much for your compliments. Your support is very humbling. Cheers.

wooow.....beautiful...I hope I can paint like this one day...

Fantastic !!!

Beautiful Work.....

I was only looking for some basic tips to refresh my mind on graining. I have spent the last hour looking at your films and work. I am no artist but find the free form and irregularity of timber and marble more easy to replicate. I could never for example create panels like your three trains. Thanks so very much for making good quality films about your work. Keep thinking outside the box and posting films as it has my mind glowing with inspiration. Best regards from myself, Rob a decorator near Birmingham England.

@JeffPollastro

7 жыл бұрын

Rob, I feel so bummed that KZread put this comment under 'potential spam' comments. I generally reply within a week of somebody commenting, and I see you posted this a year ago. I truly am sorry. I appreciate your comment. Such a thoughtful and touching comment - the fact that you saw my other videos - I do regret not finding this earlier. It made my day. I have for large part put down my cameras due to having a second child and more responsibilities on the home front. I do enjoy sharing, mostly because KZreadrs are an endless source of free knowledge and information - I use KZread daily to figure out things I just can't do otherwise. I hope you do keep up the good work in England, my good man. I, unfortunately, will most likely leave my business and go back to studies for my Masters degree in education or the like in order to teach kids English as a second language. So I will be leaving painting soon. It'll always be in my heart, as it has consumed the last 16 years of my life. I hope you have found what you need, and continue to find inspiration with your paintbrush. Thanks again! Cheers

I love it! Bravo

@JeffPollastro

10 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for your compliment! Cheers!

There are plenty of self-taught decorative painters. Some really amazing ones too. Some of them don't have the constraints of somebody that was taught specific ways of painting, so they're style is more unique. Knowing the techniques is great, too. It's up to you. Don't be jealous - all that glitters ain't gold, my friend. Not many people last long in his boot-camp style and insane hours and demands. If I wasn't 19 when I started, I would have never lasted ;) He's great, but still human.

Thanks for the upload. Very interesting.

Thanks a lot mate will definitely have a scan for them

very nice my friend ,i love it thank you for your knowledge

@JeffPollastro

10 жыл бұрын

Cheers, Preston. Thank you for your comment, and I am happy you were able to gain something from watching.

Hi Liam, I moved to NYC at age 18 to attend college. Just after my 19th birthday, I got a 2-week job folding brochures for Pierre Finkelstein. On the second day of work, he sent me on a jobsite to help my brother, Ryan Pollastro (he was the foreman at the time). Pierre taught me everything during my employment...

@mikemb123, don't think you read the description - starting to think many don't on KZread these days. Just a sample. I own a company, my friend, pretty sure I know what I'm doing. But thank you for your comment. Be well.

Very nice man.

@inchwormdesign the issue outdoors would be the vapor barrier and breathability. shellac, caulking and latex paint would create an impenetrable surface so as it weathered, whatever moisture was behind the coating would get trapped in the wood causing rot. This is the universal disease that effects virtually every painted wood building. The old paints breathed more because they were linseed based etc. BTW that panel looks really beautiful! excellent work

Nice work

@zavael zavael, thank you for your comment. This was a sample situation that needed to be done in a day - for client presentation - so all was done in Golden acrylic. On the job, most likely for a library, my mediums interchange. So, for jobsite situations I would use an oil base coat. Flogging - acrylic or beer. Figure - artist oils + linseed oil + turp + drier. Overglaze - artist oils + linseed oil + turp + drier. I wish I had the time these days for more vids. Hopefully soon! Thanks!

Have to second that...... great job and very helpful video. Leo

nice work Jeffy !

Very true! I guess its a case of practice makes perfect, I'm looking into creating a studio so that should give me the room to practice. Haha yeah I can imagine it being pretty hard! Thanks again jeff

Thanx Jeff

Amazing

Liz, not sure if I replied to your compliment. Thank you so much for your support, and I hope you were able to get something positive out of it. Many thanks. Cheers!

Art, very nice

@cjr1975, thanks for your compliment. All Likes and Dislikes are equally relevant - just happy people saw the video, and some with opinions and comments, like yourself. This video was posted a year or two ago, so hopefully my newer videos will swing at least one of those Dislikes into Like. If not, it's all good! Btw, a new video on woodgraining and trompe l'oeil will be posted shortly. Cheers!

A M A Z I N G hope you are well paid, for this art.

The only brush I was allowed to touch for 2 years were his and my brother's when they were done with them and they needed cleaning ;). I spent 8 years with Pierre, and ultimately became his foreman and traveled around the world running projects for his company.

I love videos like this. It makes my brain feel a certain way, almost like an itch-hard to describe. It is said that language and craftmaking are linked in the same part of the human brain and evolved together. The display of the craft in combination with the narration is an invaluable aid. My interest came from a project I am working on. Apparently there is something called a rocker tool available and everybody with a hot glue gun does DIY videos on using them but the results are monstrous and cartoonish. My persistent digging was rewarded by your wonderful video and impressive technique. There's even a word for what I want-faux bois. I love the internet. You are an asset to the artistic community and your videos will go far to keep this craft alive. Hats off!

@JeffPollastro

8 жыл бұрын

+Nick Aschenbecker , well, dang, Nick! That was such an uplifting comment! Cheers for making me feel good ;) It's funny, because I made this video back in 2009 and it seems to be the most popular of the lot. I hope I've grown in the last 6 years, but I am equally gratified that the public can get something useful from something I shared. I think KZread is one of the greatest tools ever made, and the fact that I have learned so much (like fixing a broken sink to certain shortcuts on Photoshop to learning how to braid my daughter's hair and much more) has inspired me to share whatever I can in order to give back to a community that has already shared with me. Regarding your comment on rockers and graining tools, I believe there is a use for all of them. All tools are relevent and can be helpful. The problem that I have with them is that they are generic to around two species of wood...oak and maybe pine. All species of wood are different in the characteristics of the grain and figure. If all woods were the same, then all trees would look, well, exactly the same. There is so much to study in the details - from the insects that inhabit them, to the malformations that occur due to climate change, to the fungi that grows under root, to the soil each is planted in, to the different locations around earth each of the species lives in, to many many other factors. I am still only an amateur of the study, and try to better myself when I can. There a couple of my mentors that have been studying these sorts of things for 30 - 50 years and counting. I do my best, but I am nowhere near their ability nor wealth of knowledge on the subject. I just try to encourage, as much as possible without sounding preachy, to research on your own and delve into the details where others may stray from. To learn is to grow is to evolve your craft is to have a bloody good time doing it. I have fun, and that's all that truly matters...oh, and making sure I can contribute financially to my family ;) - there's always THAT. Thank you very much, again, for your thoughtfulness and time spent on watching my video and sharing your thoughts. All the best!

@japankasasagi

7 жыл бұрын

That "brain itch" is called ASMR, there are so many triggers for it, and Bob Ross and his painting videos are popular because many people get that "itch"! Just google ASMR, you'll enjoy it!

Thanks, Leo! There are 2 types of water-based mediums - reversible and non-reversible. One reactivates with water, the other does not. Watercolor, gouache, egg tempera, casein, etc. are all examples of reversible, whereas acrylic or latex (synthetics) are non-reversible. The traditional graining is done with an OIL basecoat - GOUACHE / BEER flogging - OIL overgrain - OIL overglaze. Since oil cannot reverse water, it protects it and cannot harm the reversible mediums...

@inchwormdesign Painting is an ancient craft. As old as human civilization itself. Relatively unchanged in it's basic methods throughout the ages. From the most crude and mundane work to the most highly refined. Practitioners of any art have always sought knowledge from previous generations and sought to improve thier own knowledge by learning from others.

I was assuming watercolour over watercolour without sealing and wondering how no damage.. but understand what youre saying. I confuse easily. Thanks for the info...one of the best for sure. Leo

@Валентини Василиса, This post will not quite link to your question, perhaps because it is linked elsewhere. Hopefully you'll be able to read it. Firstly, many thanks for your compliments and even more so for your questions. By the way, your English is great. Regarding your questions, if I answer them in a technical manner, you'll have to sit down for a while because I could write a book on the nature of glazes, the different types of mediums and how they differ, what paint is vs. glaze, and the idea of stains and how they differ from paint and glazes. I will keep it brief, but if you require further information, please email me, and I will get more technical with my answer. Sound good? Most glazes are fine unprotected. Some people prefer to use a varnish at the end to protect the completed product, because it took several coats to achieve a final product, and they feel more comfortable when a varnish is on top. Varnish or top coats will help protect your finish product. It is another coat, which is very durable, and transparent, so it will necessarily add protection. Some glazes, like BEER GLAZE, which utilizes drinking beer as the body of the glaze, is less durable and often times a reversible glaze - meaning, it can be removed with its solvent, which happens to be water. With reversible glazes will need protecting in between coats, and you will need to use the opposite medium. If it is beer, you need to protect with oil, since a water-based barrier would only remove your work. If you are not using beer as your body for your glaze, then you probably won't have to worry about what I just wrote. Most commercial glazes are acrylic, and acrylic is a durable medium and also non-reversible, meaning it will not reverse using water on top of it once dry. Regarding stains, this is different. Paints and glazes are topical layers, whereas stains are penetrating layers. If you use a paint and put a glaze on top of it, the glaze essentially sits on top of the paint (sometimes this is not the case, but I won't get too technical here), and by adding more coats of glaze, you just keep adding layers that sit on top of each other like a sandwich. Since glazes are transparent, you are seeing through each coat until you see the opaque paint as your basecoat. Now with stains, there is no sandwich effect. If you have a bare wood, for example, you use stains to penetrate through the wood to color the wood. Think of it as an injection of color. If you were to keep adding layers of stain, you would be continuing to inject color into the existing color, not layering, so to say. This is a basic concept and explanation, though. I am sure there are stains out there that have a chemical in them that allows for them to sit on top of the surface awhile longer before penetrating the surface, so they are able to utilize that to create a new and different approach. Over large surfaces, this would be very difficult to sustain, because eventually your stain would penetrate, and therefore not able to manipulate. I wouldn't recommend this, unless it is a technique you've personally developed. Again, this can get complicated and my explanation can give mixed messages. On a basic level, I would stick to glazes and paints. I prefer Golden Artist Acrylics for my water-based glazes. Preferably, their Proceed line, which has an increased open time, so I can do large surfaces without drying on me. Hope this helps.

@valentinmelnik7590

7 жыл бұрын

Jeff Pollastro, I know it's been a while since I wrote to you for the first time, I just wanted to say thank you for your explanation and time it took to write ). We started to do furniture with my husband, for our new apartment and finally I'll be able to try faux wood technic

@gswiaczny thank you for your questions / compliments. I like Golden's Proceed system for samples and other techniques - for some reason KZread won't let me paste the link, but you can Google it. It's a slow-drying acrylic. You can buy it in Belgium at their online store. For the actual jobsite, I use the traditional technique of WATER (flogging) - OIL (figure) - OIL (overglaze) - Varnish. This gives me complete control and best results. On a job, I use shellac or a water-based varnish.

...a great aspect of a reversible medium over oil, is that you can erase it without discoloring or harming the oil coat underneath it. You do, however, have to prepare the oil coat first before using a reversible water glaze on top by concocting a mixture of whiting and water and using a scrubby to degrease the oil film left by the oil basecoat. This will allow water to adhere to the oil coat's paint...

Wow, thanks for the compliment! I hope I will have some time to do more videos in the near future. It's fun to do. There are some fantastic painters on KZread, but I think the video editing and production could be better. Nadai, Gert, Finkelstein, Woodland...these are all true masters. Just wish they spent a bit more time on the video aspect. Cheers!

I'm looking to find oak grain done on the same type of molding you've done here?

What color are using as a base coat for your mahogany?

impressive

@JeffPollastro

9 жыл бұрын

Thanks, Van Hung Le! Appreciate the time you took to watch the video. Cheers!

@jerzypodzorski100

9 жыл бұрын

Jeff Pollastro

What do you use to protect the work and how do you apply it so that it stays topographically flat?

@mortier9, on this particular sample, I used the same color for both the burl and the mahogany. Anything in the burnt orange color range is fine. Honestly, you can start with any base in the yellows, reds, oranges, and browns as long as the base color at least 2 values lighter than the overall finish color you want to achieve. Another thing is 95% of my wood graining jobs I am asked to match an existing wood somewhere in the house or even a sample that the designer or client has given me...

@HAYES9521, thanks for the kind words, mate. Unfortunately I don't think I've met Judy Mulligan. There's many talented decorative painters in the tri-state area, and even more I have yet to encounter for myself. Marshall Watson's design looks great, so I'm sure you both do exceptional work. Cheers!

@mortier9 ...so all I do is take my color chart and look at the lightest part of the wood and chose a color that matches or comes close to matching that lighter hue. I know I am building layers before the finish coat - flogging, figure and side grain, and final moires, effects, and color matching. Always look at the colors from the actual wood you want to match, whether it is surrounding trimwork or a sample of wood the client gives you and take your colors from that. Marble is the same way.

...using a non-reversible glaze over an oil basecoat can technically be erased, with the use of alcohol. This will not harm the oil coat, but will knock the sheen down. When I practice my graining, I tend to paint out a board in oil, and use a beer/gouache glaze, and I erase it with water and start again! Hope this helps. It's not easy without seeing it, for sure.

FANTASTIC JOB!!!!!!!! WOULD YOU TELL ME THE PRODUCTS YOU USED IN SEQUENCE, YOU USE WATER BASE?

Wow! So you actually worked with Pierre! I will have to admit im pretty jealous!! Quite an accomplishment going from washing brushes to being the foreman. Im still an apprentice so still got a long way to go! I don't work for a company that specialize in faux so was just wondering if id be able to reach a high standard being self taught. Thanks for your reply

what type of paint do you use? thanks, your videos are great - we need more!

Belle réalisation , tu travailles avec quel glacis eau ou huile ??

Dude your amazing! im a young painter and decorator wanting to specialise in faux bois, as a novice with literally no experience is there any dvds or books that you could recommend?

nice video

I just read that you dont usually seal the first grain coat before overgraining... Dont you damage or move the previous coat wet on dry.. ? I have some watercolour graining experience but not overgraining. Thanksssss ! Leo

@mikemb123 can you please elaborate? I am interested in your point, but it would help others reading these comments if you would be more precise. Example: do to the nature of plaster on MDF with 5 coats of water-based products sun-fried to the surface and sandwiched between coats of shellac and lacquer would cause an issue with longevity of paint and potential adhesion issues. This would be helpful, because you are right. I would never do this on-site, or recommend for outdoors. Thanks!

Great to hear your ambition. The Art of Faux by Pierre Finkelstein is one of the best books on our trade. Michel Nadai also has a book in French / English that is fantastic. Pierre also sells a lot of the best books on the trade and all the tools / paints, etc. at fauxbrushes-dot-com (can't post URL). DVDs are scarce, but there are a couple from Sean Crosby (muralist and also does wood graining) and Marc Potocsky (great painter).

You are the best I've ever seen! That is unbelievable. I'm wanting to woodgrain my garage door. What kind of base and glaze should I use? Thanks for the video.

@JeffPollastro

10 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your comment, Telelikeitis. There are so many amazing painters in the world, and perhaps they just aren't as 'advertised' or promoted on social media - I wish they were, because they'd blow me out of the water! I'd like to think that I am fortunate to be able to paint for a living, and help provide for my family. I very much enjoy making videos, and hope somebody gets some-thing out of them. Thank you, again, and please stay tuned, I have a couple more videos that I'm shooting & editing. Cheers!

Wow! Such an amazing compliment - thank you for brightening up my day. Don't think the bowing is necessary, though. We all do our thing, and as long as we make our clients happy, and more importantly, ourselves, then all is well. You should look into Christian Martincourt of France and some of those painters - my mentors. For brushes, look up Pierre FInkelstein Institute for French brushes. Thanks again!

I have a corporation, so no, it's contracted work like all other contracting companies. However, I will be creating hand-painted wallpaper for a top-notch wallcovering company in the fall, so that particular business will be on commission - mostly due to the nature of my designs and application and they want to sell it as their own brand. Still in the works, nothing is solid as of yet, so still working on the nature of that business.

@mikemb123 Thank you for your compliment, but I am far from a master. Maybe one day when I'm in my 60s or 70s then hopefully an apprentice of mine can appreciate my mentorship and say kind things, but until then, those kind of words are meant for those I look up to - Pierre Finkelstein (my mentor), Christian Martincourt, Michel Nadai, and my brother, Ryan Pollastro. I'm sure there are others in the depths of the world, but those are the few I know. Yep, all work interior.

Looks great keep up the goods have you heard of Judy mulligan she is out of jersey we worked together for Marshall Watson a NYC designer good work sir

Jeff, your work is amazing! Thanks for sharing your talent with us. I have several questions. I'm from Ukraine and my English is not perfect though, so forgive me. First one. Did I understand right that after priming I have to put first level of paint and than several coats of glaze, and do I have to use bare glaze or add paint in to it? That's all? Will it be safe? I mean do I need to cover it with something to protedt glaze or glaze itself is really strong? The second: I see some people do staining and than varnish it, is at a good choice too? Thanks so much for letting me ask you this stupid questions:)

@JeffPollastro

8 жыл бұрын

I apologize if I haven't answered this question. Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to translate your question for me - I assure you my Ukrainian is horrible ;) I recommend after priming the surface, to use 2 coats of paint. 1 coat is generally not enough to cover white, especially when using a deep based color for wood graining. The first coat of glaze can be done with a mixture of beer (dark beer) and gouache. Do not use regular paint. If you cannot get gouache or egg tempura, then I recommend using an acrylic (water based) glaze with acrylic paint. Over the acrylic, I do recommend using oil based glazes, because they look more realistic and can create a better sense of depth in darker earth colors. You can use varnish over your final product. Polyurethane works well. Sometimes the water based varnishes can be a bit cloudy over the dark colors, so oil based varnishes tend to look better. If you are going for a flat or matte finish, you can use urethane or water based acrylics. I am not sure by 'staining,' since that implies staining actual wood, therefore not painting your surface to look like wood. If you are just staining and finishing actual raw wood and want to maintain the essence of that particular wood, then this is not the video to watch ;) I hope I am understanding you properly here, because I don't want to lead you down the wrong path. Please let me know if you need me to elaborate. Thanks again.

wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow

@JeffPollastro

10 жыл бұрын

Cheers, Ahmed!

@mikemb123 This is brilliant information. This kind of communication and transfer of information is very helpful to all. KZread vids are very limited and most are not able to include decades worth of information in an 8 minute period. Unfortunately I had to take that liberty, and of course excluded this kind of information. However, the comment section is brilliant for added information to help with everybody's wondering. Thank you for adding to the discussion. Best comment I've received.

We bought a house 2 years ago that has painted wooden garage doors. Instead of stripping them (3 car garage would take forever) I would like to faux wood finish them. Can you suggest what glaze I would use over the paint?

@JeffPollastro

9 жыл бұрын

Tracy Inspired, this is a great question. First thing to remember, and always true: your finish is only as strong as its weakest coat. The reason why I say this first, is you will have to check the durability of the paint that is currently on the doors. This may take scraping and / or sanding in order to know that your finish will be foundationally sound. The next thing to know is whether or not you have to prime the garage doors. If there is raw wood showing at all, then it's best to prime them. Oil or a waterborne paint for patio floor primers would probably do the trick - don't forget, you can have the paint company you are purchasing your primers or paint from tint the primer. This will save time and provide an extra coat of color. After you prime, check the doors for cracking and separation. If so, you will want to mend these, then spot prime afterwards. Next, you need the proper base color for the wood you're trying to achieve - if it's a walnut, then a nice light brown in a neutral to warm hue; a mahogany would require a deeper burnt sienna base, etc. 2 coats would be best over the primer. Lastly, you're ready for your woodgrain finish. If your garage doors are heavily panelled (like several tiny squares or rectangular panels), then I could suggest a waterborne product like Golden's Proceed Full-Bodied Glaze Medium. Look up "proceed paint" on Google and it will be the first link. Find your retailer or nearest retailer to ship from and I'd get at least 2 quarts if not 3. You'll need acrylic pigment as well, so I would order the proper palette for graining as well - this depends again on the species of wood you're trying to achieve. So if your doors are panelled, you can certainly section off parts of the door and do them independently, which will give you enough open time to work with. Otherwise, it is always ok to use oils. Mix your own glaze, is always the best. Buy Refined Linseed Oil (not boiled from Home Depot), Distilled Turpentine with low odor (Windsor & Newton is good for both of these), and Japan Drier for drying. Then get your palette of fine artist oils in the recommended colors for the species. Oil is easiest to use, but if you're not used to them, it takes some time to understand how to use them and to mix everything yourself. I would certainly practice. Take note, it will smell like solvent (turpentine) while using them. Many people complain and hate this aspect. Cleanup is also time consuming and recycling your oils (for later use) is also important. Water is the best product to use for cleanup and drying purposes, but oil will provide the longest open-time and best looking finish. It's totally up to you. I don't know where you live, so also the climate plays a huge role in determining what product to use - if you're in Seattle, and it will rain in a couple of hours, probably want to use water and do it in steps; if you're in Florida, well, then humidity will keep things open but the direct sun will 'freeze' the paint in place quickly; Arizona is hot and dry, and the paint won't give you any open time, so oils is preferable... Sorry for the drawn out explanation, but I don't really know the project, and without being thorough, it would be doing you a disservice. Keep in mind I live in New York City, and rely solely on the subway and bus for transportation...I don't see many garages ;) Good luck!

@JeffPollastro

9 жыл бұрын

Tracy Inspired I would equally like to say that the varnish or top coat is important to take into account in order to protect your finish. You will want to make sure it is UV protecting top coat. Modern Masters makes an easily accessible UV varnish, but it is pricey (~$120 or so a gallon). This will protect your finish and add durability to your doors as well.

@CookieZ3353

8 жыл бұрын

Modern Masters is great for a finish coat!

@CookieZ3353

8 жыл бұрын

I would strip them. The new stripping products make it go way faster than faux painting.

Since VOC restrictions have been highly enforced on the east and west coasts, of course, manufactures are ridding themselves of oil-based products. I have made the 'switch' to acrylics, even though nothing really beats oil paint. I have preferred an environment of acrylics, and the lack of solvents certainly cuts down on potential self-combusting materials such as soaked rags, etc., as well as overall health. I certainly hope the EPA would do their due research before assuming everything

As a business in NYC working with top interior designers and architects, you'd be surprised at what multi-millionaires and billionaires will pay. If you're in France or Italy, it's a much different story, however.

So, I am assuming you work on commission?

ear Jef Kindly tell me if you are using a glaze. I purchased a valspar glaze just in case but it seems just as possible to use turpentine or water.Also if you could tell me the color you are using on the base. Is it a standard paint color? i have tried a couple and the color i get from the screen seems more intense golden then when i get the paint home. As well i do need the thin brush you are using that creates lines.. Please contact me if you can.. Kindly Michael

@JeffPollastro

7 жыл бұрын

Hi again, Michael. Good to hear from you, and thanks for your comments and questions. The Valspar glaze is acrylic, but if I'm not mistaken, it dries rather quickly and has a bit more body to it - does it seem thick to you? You can always manipulate any kind of paint or glaze, so with these Home Depot or hardware store glazes, I tend to manipulate them with water and some retarder. Go to Jerry's Artarama online and order your acrylic products, preferably Golden. I'm paid by them, by the way ;) The truth is, I learned that Golden gives them the best discounts on their product in the entire world so they are able to give us artists / painters the best deals, plus they give free shipping after a certain amount ordered...and they're fast delivery. So, Golden Retarder is a bit pricey but it very much helps slow down the drying process of these commercial products, which you'll need if attempting woodgraining. You can also add Proceed glazes, which you can find online and your retailer nearest to you by typing in Proceed Paints in Google. I buy all my brushes from Pierre Finkelstein. I helped Pierre in marketing and finding the best brushes to sell when I was employed by him, and I know that there are not many places that A) sell French paint brushes; and B) sell them for the price that he does. Yes, they are an investment, but some of those brushes are priceless, and if you are able to find them elsewhere, they will most likely be more expensive. The brush that creates the lines? I am assuming you are talking about the veins in the burl (in the center panel)...that brush is called a TOOTH VEINETTE. A very specialized brush, and you'll only use it for graining, and probably some heavily veined marbles. Very worth it with graining. The paint color? You know what I do? Pierre taught me this. You go to the kind of wood you want to paint, take a Ben Moore Color Preview deck (with all their standard colors), and choose the lightest tone in the wood, or the medium tone. You will have a custom color that you find for yourself in order to match that wood perfectly. I think the color I used was Apple Crisp 2159-30, but not entirely sure. You will benefit more if you start observing color yourself in the woods you want to create, and picking them with your own eye. This way, if you need to match to an exact wood, you can choose the proper color. Hope you find this helpful. Thanks

@JeffPollastro

7 жыл бұрын

Oooh, Michael, I just remembered that I didn't mention...Turpentine is only for the oil based steps, if you are using oil. Do not mike turp with water. Turpentine is the solvent for oil glazes. Water is the solvent in water glazes / acrylic.

Dear Jeff, I am writing from Barcelona, I have a furniture restoration workshop and I am looking for information on the beer painting technique. Could you tell me the recipe for the beer glaze? I hope google has translated well!! thanks for your attention.

@JeffPollastro

Жыл бұрын

Hi my friend. Beer glaze: take a dark beer (Guinness works well) and open it up. Let all the CO2 out - let it go flat. Then you want to take egg tempura or gauche pigments and mix it into the beer. That’s basically it. You can use gum Arabic to help as a binder but it will make it less reversible. You can also use dry pigments, but you’ll definitely need gum Arabic for binder. There will be a bit of floating pigment in your glaze - won’t entirely break down. I prefer gauche. Hopefully that helps. For wood, stick with earth tones - burnt umber, raw umber, burnt sienna, yellow ochre, raw sienna - for your coloration.

@tallerdelmoble8674

Жыл бұрын

@@JeffPollastro 207 / 5.000 Resultats de traducció Resultats de traducció star_border Thank you so much for your answer. I have practiced it on wood without the gum arabic and it was sticky or biting. Now I will practice it with this ingredient. Thank you and congratulations for your work!

Hey Jeff did you aquire your skills through an apprenticeship specialising in wood grain or are you self taught?

My apologies, cjr1975, I think I did not see this comment - I usually get an email. Anything can be painted as long as it is prepared properly. If the laminate has a lacquer finish, you need to remove that first - this can be a lengthy explanation and could have multiple solutions to - and then you should prime the doors with a product called STIX primer. It's a fantastic primer, and it does as the label suggests, sticks ;) Once you got the primer, you're good to proceed.

@inchwormdesign I know its interior but if someone tried this on outside work it would pop off the surface.

I enjoy your channel, keep up the amazing work! I make similar vlogs too :)

I would also not be painting a door made out of MDF for exterior work, and I'd use the proper mediums to reflect the environment in which the work called for. This is a video strictly for technique and the use of Golden's Proceed open-glazes, which can be used on exterior work, but as you've noticed, there needs to be a proper prep job with proper finishing products after completion. This is not that video, however.

@inchwormdesign after viewing your portfolio, it becomes apparent you don't do much exterior work, so don't I feel like the big idiot right now. Anyone who calls himself a true painter would be highly privelaged to study at your feet. you are a true master

I listened to Motorhead and smashed my brush

@JeffPollastro

7 жыл бұрын

Philthy Animal! Well, can't say that is a bad thing ;).

that won't hold up outside. better hope thats an interior panel

I am a painting contractor and we are all supposed to get all these certifications and pay all these fees and are now subject to tremendous fines. I want to move into more decorative painting to get away from it.

Correct me if i'm wrong.. But you are using a glaze medium after you apply the first stage of creating the burl ,in the case of this video.. Then additionally you are using a glazing to add depth of color over the dried faux finish? tht makes perfect sense... I actually threw some of the glaze in the mix of the first panel i did and if possible would be happy to send a jpg. bluewatercolor@gmail

@JeffPollastro

7 жыл бұрын

The base color (Apple Crisp, from your previous question) is the only opaque layer in all the woodgraining. The other steps are glazes and the final coat is a clear coat / top coat / varnish, etc., which is still transparent. The term 'faux finish' means 'fake finish,' but figuratively means 'imitating something that is real and organic, such as wood or marble, with paint.' It's the final finished product. So whenever you hear somebody ask you, "Do you paint faux?" You can tell them that you actually paint, and you will make your surface look like a real piece of wood or marble. "Decorative Finish' is a better term than 'faux finish,' but you can definitely use the term when painting wood or marble, if that makes sense. Please feel free to send an email - I believe my email address is on my contact...just my name @gmail.com Cheers

Well, not so far. I'm considered more as an artist or a designer, because the government lacks a terminology for our craft as decorative painters. I am not a paining contractor - they have to have more certifications and higher insurances due to the nature of their work. For instance, I am not allowed to scrape paint off walls anymore, because they recently made it in law in order to scrape paint, you must take a mandatory lead paint certification class. VOCs have definitely made an impact.

The manufacturing of all products requires our dependency of oil, and the paint drying, itself, is small in comparison. EPA and LEEDS, do not have a system of testing the manufacturers before placing paints on shelves, which is sad. People falling into the cloud of 'Green' products are mislead, because they weren't 'green' while being made. I called these places myself, and they admit this fault. The 'Green' scam could be much more affective if done properly. The public is misinformed.

Also, please don't take offense to my critic but to keep in line with your degree of excellence in detail. Your pronunciation of Alizarin should be Ale iz-er-in like all is er in...... It is an anthraquinone originally derived from the root of the madder plant. In 1869, it became the first natural pigment to be duplicated synthetically. First made in 1868 called Madder

@JeffPollastro

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the tip! I appreciate it. I learned it from Pierre, so I will have to correct him ;). Cheers!

So you are a Painting Contractor. So that means the E.P.A. is going to screw with you.

Keep practicing. Maybe use some better colours. Lots of layers for a so so finish. Worked with a Hollywood Us painter before and he too went about it all with 100 steps and a so so result. Seems you lot try and be too perfect and clever and end up with this super smooth over filled waxy fake painted object. Still, your average Joe wouldn't know the difference eh.

@JeffPollastro

9 жыл бұрын

VidRef NZ), thank you again for your charming comment. I do like practicing. Practicing painting, practicing being moral, practicing getting to know somebody before judging, you know, practicing being human. I hope anybody watching my videos and perhaps reading this comment will take advice like yours sincerely. Keep practicing. I offer my videos and my take on the things I do free and without any forcing of the hand. So in that, I appreciate that you not only took the time to watch my video all the way through, but took the time to leave your wonderful comment. I'll leave you with reciprocal advice: keep practicing, mate.

@enjoy_being

9 жыл бұрын

Jeff Pollastro You are very welcome, I hope my comment made you think, rather than just make you defensive.

@JeffPollastro

9 жыл бұрын

VidRef NZ Hey mate, I'm not so sure what I'm supposed to think about. Teaching people via text doesn't really work when it comes to painting. If you have a technique that is worth sharing, please upload it to your account and show it to me. I'm assuming you're a visual learner, and an artist with a camera. Please show me. "Maybe use some better colours"...I'm not really sure what it is anybody can gather from this piece of information. Talking about color is irrelevant. Showing us would be helpful. I don't need to defend myself, because there's nothing offensive other than the fact that a brilliant painter must be giving amazing advice but is not in the service of sharing it with the rest of us. The rest of your comment is neither here nor there, so again, I please ask you to upload a video of graining with your technique, so we can all reference it to better ourselves and our skills. KZread is an amazing place for sharing visual ideas.

@enjoy_being

9 жыл бұрын

Your base colour appears too strong, too high in pigment. One of the common faults I see in grained items is there is no texture because the painter was too precious with the filling and sanding. So when you look square on it might look fine, but from the glancing angle, all you can see is a smooth sheen. Wax might help that a bit, but not for the faux joints in the cabinetry. One solution is to apply a very gentle grain texture underneath. Haven't seen a lot of old wooden furniture that has been caulked. The gaps and imperfections are often part of the charm and part of the realism.

@JeffPollastro

9 жыл бұрын

VidRef NZ See, that was a nice, constructive critique. I appreciate the thoughtfulness behind that comment. Do you see how your first comment comes off a bit bulldogish in comparison to this? I would agree that the base color was off here if I would have chosen to use more texture in the flogging (pores), but this particular sample was done for a presentation that matched a panel that was given to me...to match new veneer, not old cabinetry. I do tread lightly when suggesting to the masses not to caulk or fix their surface prior to painting, because it is, afterall, paint...simple caulking can save on your heating bill ;) Old wood definitely has its charm. I am not the best painter, and I will never claim to be. If you can find a video on Christian Martencourt of Paris, he quite amazing. Also, Pierre Finkelstein, my mentor, is fantastic. I do have other videos on my page that have some graining...the trompe l'oeil molding video shows a different species to match, although the video is more keen on trompe l'oeil than it is on the graining itself. Thank you for thinking of what I said, and looking into modifying your words on the comment. You know I don't know you, but I like you better as the thoughtful commenter, rather than the former :).