Excellent thanks

Brake cleaner and a toothbrush is best on the shims, if they are past it I would just replace em as they are usually cheap as chips, autodoc are usually best for those items

@HatBoyHarvey

9 ай бұрын

Thanks for that. As you say, the shims are very cheap to renew, I'm just super-tight ;-/

@iamspartacus1128

9 ай бұрын

​@HatBoyHarvey me too, ha ha.

Question.. i want to change the rear brake pads and discs on my 2.2 deisel automatic Whats the best position to leave my gearbox in? Handbrake off and in park or neutral?

Hi Harvey, I have skoda fabia combi (6y5) 1.4 16v 1999 model. Just thinking to instal a engine block heater. Could you explane me how I can find the location that should install? Thanks

@HatBoyHarvey

9 ай бұрын

That's a big job, not for the faint hearted, dash out to make connections extra relays to fit etc. I don't know how to do this, but would be worth it if you can fit it I think. Search for 'auxiliary heater install' and look for a good guide on this topic on 'Briskoda'. Hope this helps :-)

Hello again I couldn't find anything regarding help with my key fob light button not working so I try here. Two remotes, one head light button works, the other doesn't Any ideas please? Batteries changed.

@HatBoyHarvey

6 ай бұрын

These fobs suffer from wear over time on the micro-buttons so a replacement would be best. As the other fob works the headlight that confirms the remote system is working fine. Fob are obtainable on eBay and will work after simple pairing as in my other video.

Sorry, that way you're using a torque wrench is just ridiculous. I bet it has a torque now around 100 or more Nm. But a question: Where do you put the jack stand? In th shop manual you only have one jacking and jack stand point in the rear.

@HatBoyHarvey

5 ай бұрын

No idea what you mean about my torque wrench as I torque it up to spec, not 100Nm? There are places for a jack stand.

@disdonc6.klasse549

5 ай бұрын

@@HatBoyHarvey You are going too fast with the torque wrench and you click like 3 or 4 times. Each time you do this, you tighten the nut a bit more than the requiered torque and that "bit" can be quite a lot because each time you have to push a bit more to "break" the already existing torque. If you put your torque wrench to 70Nm and you click 3 or more times, the real torque that you're putting on a nut can be well over 30% more. You can even see it in your video that you turn the nut over the click. A torque wrench doesn't stop you from overtightening. When you push after the click, nothing prevents the nut from being tightened too much. Even if you think you stop right after the click, you still will tighten more when you're tightening with so much momentum. With these nuts and bolts on the suspension it might do no harm (or at least it won't, if you do this only once or twice to a bolt / nut). But for nuts and bolts in the engine that require

@HatBoyHarvey

5 ай бұрын

@@disdonc6.klasse549 No, I could click the torque wrench 1000 times and no more torque will be applied. If it does keep turning the bolt will be too stretched and need replacing. This idea came about with engine builders who only torque to spec and leave not to strain the bolt more than once for perfection. Manufacturers always want mechanics to replace most every bolt and torque in the same way arguing safety when in reality most bolts are re-used over and over again with little issue as long as you don't over torque by a huge amount which I don't. You could argue a whole brake assembly should be replaced with new every time you remove the pads, but we don't, we accept a certain amount of safety risk with common sense :-)

I just did my rear break and now it’s not working

@HatBoyHarvey

Ай бұрын

You'll have to strip it down again. Look at the video to see what you've done wrong. If something has seized you may have to renew it, such as the caliper.

At 2:38 cable going into lever arm, ive tried and tried to release this but its so tight. Am i doing something wrong or is my caliper knackered? (P.s there is a tiny leak on this rear offside caliper) id appreciate any feedback. On 2008 xtype automatic

@HatBoyHarvey

6 ай бұрын

If you have followed my instructions and the lever arm won't budge then it may have seized. Soaked the mechanism overnight with penetrating fluid and try again. Take spring off then put something on the edge of the arm and tap with a heavy hammer until the nipple can be released. If still no luck cut the arm to release the cable and replace the caliper.

@SM-cx4qb

6 ай бұрын

Thank you for responding! The cable with nipple does move slightly (not seized) and the other side where you clamp the monkey wrench does move freely also. It's just that you have to apply a lot of power to press the two together when pulling the nipple clamp, it's awkward but I dont think I'm getting much slack to pull it off completely and if I do I don't think I'll be able to reattach it you see. There's not much room for directional leverage is there. I had a previous manual xtype that didn't have this set up on rear brakes. Is this cable something on all later models or just on automatics by chance? Thank god this is not on front brakes. Thanks again in advance.

@HatBoyHarvey

6 ай бұрын

The mechanism must be seized if it won't move, as it should move relatively easily. Stupid Q, you have released the handbrake? Mine is manual

@SM-cx4qb

6 ай бұрын

Hi how are you? I ended up getting the osr caliper replaced. When I revisit replacing rear discs and pads I just hope the fsr caliper doesn't have same issue. All this of course is weather permitting and in liverpool right now the rain is relentless. I'll keep you updated Many thanks.

Tools required: wife's socks and slippers!