Absolute magic , many thanks now i,m not afraid to have a go on my old Etype

Chuck, when I rebuilt my 65 OTS fuel pump, I pulled the valves and soaked all the parts in Evaporust. Got them very clean. Also filled the tank up with evaporust and sucked evaporust up to the glass bowl through the pump. Let it sit couple days. All parts and inside of tank came out crystal clean. Washed out tank with water, flushed small amount gas and immediately filled with gas. Pumped out to bowl to clean out all other fluids before running fuel to the carbs. Worked great.

Hi Chuck, Another very interesting video Great stuff. The reason the screw caps on the tops of the dash pots are different colours is due to sun bleaching the black plastic. The sun shines through the bonnet grill but only on the rear 2 carbs, as the forward carb is not under the vent grill and so not effected by the sun. Hope that helps. Defo all original. All the best. Andy

@monocoquemetalworks88

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Andy…. You just BLEW MY MIND!!! Thank You! I have wondered about that for decades! It seems so obvious now, but I don’t know if I would have ever figured that out - whenever I’ve pondered it, the bonnet is up - LOL! What really gave my endless joy on this was when I said to myself, “wait a minute…”, walked over to the green ‘67 sitting next to it, opened the bonnet, and had two white and one black cap in the exact same spots. This made my night - Thanks! 🙂🙂

massive thanks for taking the time to show us all the stuff that we dream about and will most probably be useful in the future- I am very much, 'watching you', big thanks again : )

I no longer have any E-Types and it saddens me every day now that I’m an old man. But watching you brings me great joy. Someday maybe I’ll be fortunate enough to own another but I’m not going to hold my breath as the prices continue to out of my reach. Love what you do. Thank you

@Ron-ws5lu

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Be happy you had one. I had a 1966 2+2 and years later a 1971 roadster. Had lots of fun in both and was affordable then!

Preemptive like. I love your philosophy on this, because originality is the one thing that can't be replaced.

Wonderful information. Thank you

A vital , if time consuming task Chuck . I can do all the metal ,paintwork and trimming but mechanical work is a no no ! And l paid a specialist £700 to overhaul my S.U 's and that was a few years back too ! Great stuff . Hadn't seen you for a while , so good to see you back . Thanks Chuck

Man alive that is some good looking paint!! I suggest u chase the brightwork with 0000 steel wool then hand rub the finish with cleaner wax for a couple days,followed by hard wax for a day, all in the direction of travel and using new products..nothing looks worse than a swirly flattened finish with a ripply border..id replace the floats w modern "unsinkable" floats 👌

You Sir are Awesome !! 👍🙏 I picked up a ‘66 4.3 conv. And I’m having a friend get it running . A Very Cool 😎 looking car !! 👍👍

Great stuff chuck hope it’s not to long for the next one can’t wait to see it run

I got a 66 2+2 Las month. Solid but scruffy. Long time sitter. So, we are doing the same thing, going for a runner, not nut and bolt take apart…Thanks so much for your guidance. The front carb was in a box, I was told it was “leaking”….pulling the bowl covers, checking the floats, I poured a little gas in the bowl, it just fell right out the bottom of the jet…on disassembly, the jet diaphragm came out in fossilized pieces. Turned out the rear carb “leaked” as well…the diaphragm was flexible but torn away from the jet. I got 3 kits, got the front done today, had to stop after disassembly on the rear, it’s soaking overnight…I don’t think I agree with leaving the carb bodies mounted. The choke and throttle linkage is fiddly, but the jet assembly at the bottom is worse! I don’t think I was gonna make it your way! The center carb is not “leaking”, so I am tempted to let it be…will see tomorrow.

Wow, nice job Chuck. All I can say is you have a lot of patience to rebuild those carburetors and leave the bodies in place. You must have stood on your head to gain access. I recently rebuilt mine off the engine and it was somewhat of a pain lining up the float bowls, screws, jets etc. on the work bench. Looks great and hope it runs as well.

Looks like a satisfying labor of love. What a great car to conserve

Nicely done even reusing cotter pins; next level! I always take the carb bodies off the car and walnut blast everything clean. My first set I pushed the new needles too far up into the suction piston and the car ran too rich.

Fantastic video. Your obsession with originality is contagious. I enjoy seeing concourse quality cars too but I always wonder how much of a heap they were before unlimited funds were committed. Not to take anything away from skilled restorers, attractive survivors in good working condition impress me more than concourse cars because there’s something special about genuine historical artifacts. Although better-than-new partial reconstructions are wonderful, they’re not the same. As you’ve crossed the divide between metal fabrication wizard to museum curator, your compulsion to try to leave some bolts untouched raises questions about how far to take this obsession. To my mind, general maintenance tasks like ensuring bolts are unfrozen and applying anti-seize to preserve threads are fair game. I understand the desire to use original hoses when possible but it’s difficult to know where to draw that line; we know we can’t drive on 60 year old tires and much of the same logic applies to hoses. Because a hose failure could threaten your safety or the vehicle's, continuing to use original hoses is a tough call. I'd probably replace them and store the originals in case the vehicle ever became a static display in a post-apocalyptic future without gasoline.

There is an O Ring for each of the large idle speed adjustment screws that prevents air being drawn in and affecting the mixture. They should be replaced, I often lubricate such things with Dielectric Grease. I see your rear carb float bowl float test plunger/button is missing, so was mine; factory standard?? Doubt it, seems yours was previously taken apart so likely it was lost. My front two carbs do not have this. Tom G

I had a 63 E-type and I remember distinctly that the frame in the front was a beige/off white color, possibly a very light yellow. I've noticed that later models seem to have painted the frame around the engine in the car cover. Have you seen this on early E-types?

Hello, very interesting video! I did the same on my carbs but what I encountered was that one dashpot cylinder had more resistance than the other one while going up or down. What should be the proper resistance? They are all clean. Any tips?

Not cotter pins - split pins.