Thanks for all of the terrific video suggestions! Thanks again and best regards, Todd. Evapo-Rust: amzn.to/2Ekc51h

@brianf467

3 жыл бұрын

You do a great job!! Maybe if you try this test again attach a wire to both parts of the wrench. It would be interesting to see if it worked better or faster! Keep up the great work!!

@ChiDraconis

3 жыл бұрын

Just discovered _seafoamworks_ *"Deep Creep"* which is a thread penetrant sounds better than what I had used for years · I have spent enough time in wheat field with Liquid Wrench like it used to be and oxy torch plus one or two pound ball-peen and cold chisel trying to remove bolts that I now can assist your efforts *strongly advising* do not try to clean all the grease off equipment using soap unless you like to feed your equipment dealer $50,000 dinner money The soap or whatever you use decomposes the grease and oil and some of it gets inside equipment by capillary action → Rust makes good nutritional iron supplement but if you izza a picky house-mouse use Steen's Blackstrap Molasses but not on the engine •••• If you want *Glitzy* get a show-car only and mount it on lowboy auto hauler trailer and never put fuel in it or try to get it to run; 10 Coats flake with 2 coats clear and a buffer with 3 spinners ( turbo ) on 10:71 Roots from abandoned Marine then Mr Hog Leg by your side to prevent theft; Banker do not care about epoxy primer, VHT high temp spray paint, Dupli color red high temp tint spray paint, and automotive clear nor that The results are well worth the brutal prep work for show-only; Useless on an MF in Kansas

@nicksoefje9009

3 жыл бұрын

Rust is a very poor conductor. Whenever using electrolysis on tools, always make sure your anode is connected to any moving/isolated parts with a rust barrier.

@ClipPreview

3 жыл бұрын

Very sneaky Tod, as if you didn't notice the rust barrier and connection points, I rarely comment on videos and you suckered me in too!

@lifeofavet7057

3 жыл бұрын

Muriatic acid works just like that rust remover and is way cheaper.

The sliding part of the wrench wasn't electrically connected well. The rust remained on it. In the tank, this part didn't even bubble.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@hachikiina

5 жыл бұрын

oh hi diode

@fouzaialaa7962

4 жыл бұрын

we all watch the same content...... dont we ??

@doggedout

4 жыл бұрын

This. The rust between the slide part and the handle prevented the completion of the circuit. As it did between the bolts and the nuts.

@dougaltolan3017

4 жыл бұрын

yeah, I cant imagine not realizing that after the first 24 hours, but 3 days??? Not the brightest tool in the box. (pun intentional)

You somehow look like an absolutely terrifying drill Sergeant, but also the friendliest and most wholesome neighbor ever

@ProjectFarm

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much!

@carloko08

3 жыл бұрын

hahahha, yeah you are right, the kind of terrible seargent during the training but in combat the guy that save your life :D

@Louis-op4zj

3 жыл бұрын

Bob Ross basically...

@greenplanetre4332

3 жыл бұрын

He definitely looks like either a drill instructor or a former marine.

@geoffreycasey875

3 жыл бұрын

@@greenplanetre4332 he was in the air force..

every time you extend the dipping time in electrolysis, you NEED to clean up the sacrificial piece of steel, otherwise the conduction is weakened by the rust accumulation.

@Ramnathk

2 жыл бұрын

This!

@Iyzdor

2 жыл бұрын

Also he needs the wire on the body of the wrench so that part of it is conductive. That and the wire of the anode shouldn't have been submerged.....

@suchistheuniverse7858

2 жыл бұрын

@@Iyzdor Why not submerge wires? I have guesses about wire of the wrench, but why not submerge wire of the steel?

@xfreeman86

2 жыл бұрын

@@suchistheuniverse7858 my guess: because it rusts as well, and because it is so thin, it will rust all the way through very fast. Once that happens, it will stop conducting to the plate.

@abradolflincler00

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah I used to just put my sacrificial plate on the ground and it would clean right up

Can I suggest that every few hours, as the rust builds up on the sacrificial steel and wire, you give it a quick scrub with a wire brush. This exposes clean steel, which will speed up the electrolysis, and you will not have to wait 72hrs

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback.

@TheEtbetween

2 жыл бұрын

Great point

Happy new year! The movable jaw wasn't conducting electricity well and needed an electrode of it's own.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Happy New Year!

@ethanadams876

5 жыл бұрын

i was wondering if i was the only one that thought that

@GMCLabs

5 жыл бұрын

Was thinking the same thing.

@PhiloSage

5 жыл бұрын

Also the nuts needed electrode contact. Switching position of the electrode helps.

@__WJK__

5 жыл бұрын

Charles Watts - Completely agree.

I use both processes. For small parts (nuts, bolts, etc.) that can fit in my Horrible Freight ultrasonic cleaner, I use Evapo-Rust. I first clean the part in the ultrasonic cleaner to remove any dirt, grease, etc. that might contaminate or inhibit the Evapo-Rust. I then drain the ultrasonic cleaner and fill it with Evapo-Rust. I use both heat and ultrasonic agitation. It works great for getting into fine threads, crevices, etc. in the small parts. Much better than just letting it passively soak in Evapo-Rust. For larger parts I use electrolysis. Note that it's important to only use plain steel in the electrolysis process--both for the part being derusted as well as the sacrificial part. Stainless steel, galvanized steel, and other plated steels can make a toxic soup. Plain steel only leaves iron oxide behind so it's safe to dump it in your yard or down the drain. I reuse it over and over until it's just nasty looking and then dump it. Even when it's so brown you can't see anything in it, it's still effective for electrolysis. Another great video. Thank you and happy new year.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Lex, This is great advice! Thank you and wishing you and your family a Happy New Year!

@coletrickle1775

5 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm Horrible Freight is a good name lol. Just a tip, HF has a lot of great stuff for cheap, and a lot of garbage for cheap. If you want to have a good HF experience, you have to know what to buy cheap and what not to.

@atourdeforce

5 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm Notice the moving side of the wrench isn't nearly as clean as the handle. I suspect that's because you didn't attach wire to that part directly. Its depending on the bond or rust in between to carry current to it.

@tinncan

5 жыл бұрын

Testing ultrasonic cleaner solutions would be cool too....

@davidhoward2237

5 жыл бұрын

just posted and saw urs ya evprorust got a channel on it also you dont have to remove it just put evprorust in a glass or plastic container or a heavy duty ziplock bag in put in the soapy water then you dont need to fill it up looking at getting a good ultrasonic cleaner

I use electrolysis frequently and found a couple of things that help. The more anodes you have the better it works and that cleaning the anodes of build up keeps the process efficient. The build up is easily wire wheeled if they are still damp, once they dry out for a few days the build up hardens.

@chucknorris2952

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@loftsatsympaticodotc

2 жыл бұрын

Geoge K. Too bad project farm didn't emphasize this as well as ensuring ALL moving parts were well connected.

Hey Project Farm, just an FYI an adjustable Power Source is FAR better to use than a Battery charger. You can set it to 24V+ and closely monitor the Amperage. The time it takes to use a 14-16v for electrolysis is also MUCH longer than when using 24V. The clear Amp reading is also helpful in getting the right amount of baking soda in the water, or to see if your plates are impeding progress. If the dilution is too low you will have low current (aiming for 2A is optimal), same goes for the plate over time! Cleaning the sacrificial piece is a big big factor in the time it takes for heavier jobs!

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing.

Ideally, you need to connect the wire directly to the adjustable jaw for it to work. It wasn't getting a connection from the battery charger from the beginning.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Great point and thank you!

@MegaKencam

5 жыл бұрын

I was yelling that at the screen but he didn't hear me

@scepternetworks

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you I have been screaming at him all video to connect that.

@PierreaSweedieCat

5 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm Could try a wrench again with a jaw connection!

@randomsomeone1617

5 жыл бұрын

@@MegaKencam 🤣👍🏼

JUST WRAP THE WORM GEAR PIECE IN THE wire and it wont take a million days

@hellobrandonscott

4 жыл бұрын

100%

@Decco6306

4 жыл бұрын

Is that what the screwwy bit is called? huh

@RobBank1985

4 жыл бұрын

This was so frustrating to watch.

@kirkendauhl6990

4 жыл бұрын

At least he asked how he did, I’m glad he’s always looking to improve because the location of the electrodes may not have occurred to him at all when setting up the experiment.

@AntonySimkin

4 жыл бұрын

@@RobBank1985 how in the world didn't he realize that? lol

In case that you going to do that again, wire all movable parts to the negative, on bigger pieces you can wire it more places, you can also use more than 1 sacrifice metal at once. Also you can clean the sacrifice metal, brushing or sanding it when it gets too much rusted. You can do electrolysis with the sacrifice metal on the negative, when you want to cover something on copper or zinc, so those will be the sacrifice, and they will attach on the main piece, but you need to change the environment using another liquid solution.

The darker appearance after electrolysis looks like you “blued” the metal, turning the red rust to a more stable iron oxide often called black rust. Proper and complete bluing of metals will prevent the damaging and corrosive red rust from taking hold. It was more popular before chroming was a thing but it still works pretty well.

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback.

@CONEHEADDK

2 жыл бұрын

-

I grew up in a race car shop. We used electrolysis all the time. If you want that adjustable wrench to get free from electrolysis, wrap one of your negative wires around the adjuster. The electrical flow is not jumping the rust gap between the wrench and the adjuster.

@coletrickle1775

5 жыл бұрын

You could skip the wire brush with better negative wire placement. The brushing got enough of the rust gap out of the way so the current could flow through it. Just put one of the negatives on the actual adjuster too, won't have to brush.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Great point! Thank you

@coletrickle1775

5 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm Hey man, thank you for doing all these cool comparrisons. I love all the ones with JB weld the best, I have been using that stuff for almost 20 years, and I'm only 34 years old lol. But I like to see that nothing has dethroned it yet.

I've been experimenting with electrolytic rust removal for years, in fact that was how I first encountered the late Aussie50's channel. First, having a large surface area on the sacrificial anode speeds things up, so a flat piece of sheet steel or plate works better then pieces of re-bar. Second, face the side of the object you need to strip towards the anode, then flip the object around to do the other side, unless you have more then one anode plate connected at the same time. Third, cleaner DC works better then DC with a lot of AC ripple, which is what a car battery charger puts out, adding a capacitor across the output will help. Forth, if you have an object with multiple parts like the worm gear block on that wrench, add an extra loop of wire to those parts as well. My next experiment will be to use a higher voltage then 14-15 vdc, which is what the charger puts out with a capacitor across the output, and maybe a stronger mix of electrolyte, washing soda is what I used, about 1/2 per gallon in a plastic garbage can. I have heard of some people using lye, which will strip the pain off of things as well, but then you have to neutralize the lye or it will not hold paint. Evapo-rust has one advantage, it does not harm aluminum, which electrolytic stripping potentiality can, so it's good for things that have parts made out of different metals. I don't know what is in Evapo-rust or Metal Rescue, but I suspect that it is a chelation process similar to using molasses and water, but something more effective and faster.

@ProjectFarm

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the constructive feedback

@ProjectFarm

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the constructive feedback

@aegis1337

4 жыл бұрын

Quality information! Thanks for the education

@RobMacKendrick

4 жыл бұрын

Terrific intel! Thanks!

@TrehanCreekOutdoors

4 жыл бұрын

If you care to do so, you can look up the patent application filed for Metal Rescue which does reveal that it uses a chelation process. It is an alkali process and, per the patent, requires three ingredients mixed together in proper proportions. The patent application describes a number of various combinations of ingredients that will generate the process, and of course, Armor All who owns the product is applying to patent the combination that they believes works best and is the most efficient to manufacture. The most critical ingredient in the process is Thiourea, an organic compound. At this point in time there are many ways to deal with rusted items, some of which actually remove the rust and some of which convert the rust to a stable form. Some processes that remove rust use acids, some use alkali. Some processes use abrasives to remove the rust. And there is even laser removal. All of them work, more or less, and each of them are somewhat better suited to different items with varying degrees of rusting. Thus, you can watch endless videos about rust elimination comparisons and get a lot of information plus see the processes in action. This is very valuable, of course, but there truly is NO universally superior method of dealing with rust that is "best' for all rusted items so its truly useless to compare various methods. As was concluded correctly in this video, each process is well suited for some projects but not as well suited for others. And that's the way it is for any process. So...take your pick!

I've had good luck with Evaporust inside an ultrasonic cleaner. I put the Evaporust and the part in a little plastic container that I can then immerse in the water. Seems to work quite well!

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

I've noticed that you had the electrolysis wire hanger leads only to the non moving part of the wrench. After first inspection, it was easy to tell you could have used another wrap of wire around the moving section AND the thumbscrew for better conduction/effectiveness JFYI Loved the video. Keep up the good work

Some other noteworthy advantages of electrolysis: The sodium carbonate is not “used up” and can be used indefinitely as long as lost water is replaced periodically and the electrolyte solution is strained or filtered to remove the sediments that build up. There is no danger of removal of metal (apart from loose rust that flakes off); no matter how long it runs, no iron will be etched away. Under some conditions less oxygen is removed, leaving “black rust”, the same substance as gun bluing, which will slow down the formation of “orange (bad) rust, with the help of light oiling. It is easy to make a temporary “tub” for larger parts. I’ve draped plastic dropcloth over a ring of cinderblocks to create a small “tank” on the back patio. Use heavier duty dropcloth for this. I have read that the process is cleaner using graphite rod as the sacrificial anode. Since the graphite does not react to the released oxygen there is minimal debris produced. Actually it’s not “sacrificial” at all! I’ve thought of trying the graphite pencils sold at craft stores like Michael’s for a small scale setup.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

This is great information. Thank you.

@davidlapierre4058

5 жыл бұрын

I use graphite welding rods for this. I don't know what the mechanism is, but they do erode over time. www.mcmaster.com/graphite

@Jester123ish

5 жыл бұрын

I believe alkaline batteries have a carbon rod down the centre that would probably work also.

@philwood1009

5 жыл бұрын

Jester123ish, I don't know. I looked up the differences between the traditional carbon-zinc batteries I grew up with, and the more recent alkaline batteries. The core electrodes are slightly different; the older ones have a pure carbon core, usually graphite with a binder, while the newer ones use a bronze plated nickel collector, so I would say no. Michaels sells "woodless" pencils, which are solid graphite, and Amazon carries carbon fiber rods used in RC planes, which are also a form of graphite.

@philwood1009

5 жыл бұрын

David LaPierre, I put on my thinking cap (my good one, not the one from work) and came up with a theory. It's possible that the graphite rods are porous and somewhat soft. I suspect that the bubbles of hydrogen produced from the electrolysis of the water form under the rod's surface, causing the graphite to gradually flake off.

I don't think the adjuster on the wrench was connected electrically as it showed no appreciable change and I saw no activity unlike the other parts

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

You are right. Thank you and Happy New Year!

@adammartinez5666

5 жыл бұрын

It doesn't need to be, it's part of circuit. Technical he only needs one lead on that wrench. Think of how many contact points are in those treads. I'm surprised it didnt take longer. Cool video

@axtra92

5 жыл бұрын

Project Farm so Why did you not fix it under the test?

@mrbilky

5 жыл бұрын

@@adammartinez5666 Um sorry if I disappoint you but yes it does there is so much corrosion on that part that it could not conduct electricity same as when a corroded battery terminal will not pass voltage to a starter this is a no brainer! And to clarify since it's clear you thought I was suggesting that the actual part had to be connected that is obviously not what I meant

@foxhill153

5 жыл бұрын

@@adammartinez5666 I was thinking the same thing. He didn't do anything wrong, other than not wait long enough. Also, he could have sand blasted it periodically. But then again if he had access to a sand blaster he might have realized how silly this video was to begin with. :p

I have never tried either way to remove rust and I was impressed by both. Thanks for the informative video.

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

You are welcome!

Great video you got to the point quickly without a lot if any fluff. Thanks for taking your time and adding this content.

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

You are welcome!

Some advice for anyone wanting to try electrolysis, use a brush to remove some of the rust on the item that you're trying to clean so the wire is in better contact with the metal.

@ProjectFarm

4 жыл бұрын

Great tip!

@jamiewyke3929

4 жыл бұрын

What setting is the battery charger on?

@PersonaN007Grata

4 жыл бұрын

I’ll even go a step farther and either nut and bolt the wire or even tack weld it. Always try to clean the contact area until they’re shiny.

@f.demascio1857

4 жыл бұрын

@@jacobluna7609 Thanks for the link! Good stuff.

@richardking6066

3 жыл бұрын

@@jamiewyke3929 You can adjust the current by putting more or less of the anode in the solution.

I wish you had weighed the sacrificial steel before and after as well.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Great point! I should have done that.

@remagairsoftllc

5 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm You could a follow up with different electrolytes as well

@sunnyvoid7206

4 жыл бұрын

I was thinking the same thing

@patrickmclaughlin61

4 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm try molasses and water. About a 50:1 ration. Needs a very long time but amazing. Especially on aluminum.

@concert610

4 жыл бұрын

The sacrificial steel looses weight. You also end up with rust at the bottom of the bucket.

Another great video. I love those "FORD Wrenches" my 2 aren't as rusty as yours started out to be. Great that you restored a antique "FORD Wrench".

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks 👍

Loving the attention to detail, seems like a really thorough and fair comparison. Thank you 🙏

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

You are welcome! Thanks for watching.

I've tried many different rust removal processes over the years and I've found electrolysis to be the best in most cases. I like it mainly because it doesn't attack the parent metal like acids do, although soaking rusty or old files in vinegar will clean them up and actually help sharpen them in the process. Blunted file teeth are reduced in size, so the effect is like filing each tooth, at a microscopic level on all planes, which results in them becoming sharper. It won't get them as sharp as new, but it certainly will sharpen them some. If you have a well used file that tends to skip or slip instead of cutting, dunk it in vinegar for a day or two in many cases, it will cut again. Electrolysis is also beneficial in another way; generally there are two kinds of rust on old tools or metals, the red outer layer of rust, which is the compound Fe2O3, or ferric oxide. Red rust is flaky because it takes up more volume than the metal it replaced. On very rusty things, you typically find a harder, darker layer of corrosion, almost a purply-grey in color, underneath the red oxide. This is Fe3O4, which is basically the same as magnetite. It is deceiving as it appears the metal under the red rust is just darkened, but is still corrosion. You can think of the Fe3O4 layer as sort of the intermediate stage of rusting, it hasn't turned to full on red ferric oxide rust yet. Fresh, or good steel and iron will have a silvery gray color. Electrolysis will actually convert the dark Fe3O4 back to iron! The red rust gets converted to Fe3O4, the same stuff as the dark underlying corrosion, but since it is already loose and flaky it will fall off. The conversion also makes the red rust flakes black or very dark (just like the hard Fe3O4 layer underneath it). A mistake often made in the process is to use too high a current and voltage in the process. Battery chargers work, but realistically for good quality conversion lower voltage and amperage is needed. It seems counter intuitive, but higher amperage and voltage will erode instead of convert the underlying Fe3O4. This might not be an issue for tools, per se, but if you do any research into the process, those who use it on artifacts will use a much lower voltage and amperage for better quality conversion to preserve the piece as much as possible. A power supply that produces current in the milliamp range is better than using several amps from a battery charger. If you don't have such a power supply, or don't want to buy or make one, you can insert a small lamp, like a brake light bulb in series to reduce the amperage in the tank. The higher the wattage of the lamp, the lower the amperage in the tank. Also, never use stainless steel for the cathode. Stainless contains chromium, which leeches chromium compounds into the solution during the process. These are a very toxic and probably illegal to dump down the drain, not to mention hazardous to you! Only use plain iron or steel for the cathode and for the wire hanging and/or connecting the pieces! Plain steel and iron on the anode end won't be affected by the process, so wiring to hang and connect the pieces won't get "eaten." Sheet steel makes great cathodes as you can put multiple plates of it in the tank. It's better if you have a cathode surrounding the pieces to be cleaned. Also, as some have noted, make sure you have all your pieces electrically connected. If you see a piece that isn't cleaning, that means it needs a connection.

@ProjectFarm

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the feedback

@otofoto

4 жыл бұрын

What you add to water?

@bgoodr3520

4 жыл бұрын

"Electrolysis will actually convert the dark Fe3O4 back to iron!" Read the comments in Ken Sweden's video (a chemist) where he says that is impossible: kzread.info/dash/bejne/aqmgrpdwf8qtpZM.html&lc=UgzZvfU30rtXrT8LVrh4AaABAg.925slTrVO6B926M-jR6oHo and I quote: "Rust is never converted back to iron, it is impossible. For that you need 2000 degrees and a melt furnace."

@ryanwallace8263

4 жыл бұрын

@@otofoto it's Sodium Carbonate. Specifically not sodium bicarbonate or sodium percarbonate. Here's a link. www.amazon.com/Arm-Hammer-Super-Washing-Soda/dp/B0029XNTEU

@ameunier41

4 жыл бұрын

So a usb charger would work?

How about a video on no matter how careful you are, the red squirty tube that comes with WD40 gets lost the first time you use it......

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Lol. Thank you and Happy New Year!

@Jester123ish

5 жыл бұрын

It is an immutable law of the universe!

@notmirelnam248

5 жыл бұрын

I got some silicone spray for my car's electric windows and the tube came off and fell inside the window gap. It's still there. The window goes up and down fine, but I still imagine that little red tube bouncing around all the moving parts.

@andreasguntoro5399

5 жыл бұрын

Not trying to kill the fun, I actually have a used container stuck to the wall next to my garage door just for that purpose, all spray can straw goes there. That container and its content are some of the few permanently placed stuff in my garage.

@douglaspierce316

5 жыл бұрын

drop of jb weld save it for next can

I love your pace and level of detail. Thank you.

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

You are so welcome!

Curious how much the sacrificial piece weighed before and after.

@yasyasmarangoz3577

2 жыл бұрын

calculating it will give you about the amount of Gases.

@jonny555ive

2 жыл бұрын

I was thinking the same thing.

@EricMatson-ru7jj

2 жыл бұрын

It doesn't the rust is transford to it

@Jason.F.

2 жыл бұрын

@@EricMatson-ru7jj that's not what I said.

@EricMatson-ru7jj

2 жыл бұрын

Ok misuderstood

Good lord why am I addicted to this channel...

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the positive comment! Happy New Year!

@randymurray934

5 жыл бұрын

Me too lol, Happy New Year Gang!

I’ve used electrolysis to de-rust an old railroad signal, and here are a few tips. It is largely a line of sight process, so you either need to rotate the pieces, or use multiple sacrificial anodes. I take a few pieces of rebar, bond them together with copper wires, and set them around my container. For things with many parts, try to disassemble it as much as possible. Like others mentioned, the adjuster didn’t get de-rusted much because firstly there was little path for the current, but also it has a hard time doing its job because of the lack of line of sight between the inside of the adjuster and the anodes.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you and Happy New Year!

From what I've seen, what you want is to remove most of the rust with physical means and use electrolysis to get the super hard to remove layer, and out of all the pockmarks and shit

@systemBuilder

2 жыл бұрын

check the "my mechanics" channel you are exactly right! It makes no sense to remove rust with evapo-rust or electrolysis if you can scrub it off!

You have done it again! Good job as always! Thank you!!

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks and you are welcome!

Looks like there were oxides keeping the sliding jaw and the shank out of electrical contact for most of the test.

@Workinprogressmaxi

5 жыл бұрын

Yes, he didn't connect to the loose portion.

@evilcanofdrpepper

5 жыл бұрын

I was thinking the same thing too. Now who wants to see electrolysis IN Evaporust??? I know I do!

@corey0189

5 жыл бұрын

evilcanofdrpepper sounds like a cancerous vapor would occur but I’m down to see that!

@poppaluv

5 жыл бұрын

arent you supposed to surround the object with the sacrificial anode ? it works by line of sight.

@AtlasReburdened

5 жыл бұрын

+poppaluv That helps, but isn't strictly needed. The path of electrons in a conductive fluid is seldomly a straight line path. Metals are pretty close to perfect carriers of the electric field, so the field strength will be roughly the same along the whole piece of metal that has electrical contact. Roughly the same 0V is present along the whole surface of the wrench, and roughly the same 12v is present along any unoxidized surface on the anode. The difference being length of path between the outward facing sides of the two metals compared to inward facing sides, so more current flows along the inside paths than the longer paths, but some current certainly still flows along all parts of the cathode.

Man Everytime I see one of your videos on my homes screen I'm like "Yeah I really would like to know which one is better". Great job on keep us informed.

@ProjectFarm

4 жыл бұрын

Awesome! Thank you

@johnsherman7289

2 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm Besides the professional analytical approach to comparing various tools/processes,you cover subjects of great interest to a huge audience. Thank you. Too bad critics don't have to pay a fee to lodge their contempt.

I use electrolysis for cleaning old cast iron pans. Chemicals always makes me nervous on food contact surfaces. Great video!

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback.

I absolutely love this guy. No long ass intro, gets to the point, no bullshit

@ProjectFarm

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Im wondering if the wrench if it had the metal wrapped around the movable piece if it would've removed more rust quicker.

@rawbacon

5 жыл бұрын

I think so, it seemed to have a conductivity problem in that area.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Great point!

@FetchTheCow

5 жыл бұрын

Electricity finds the path of least resistance. As the wrench handle lost rust, the electricity would preferentially flow through the handle and less through the movable jaw. I think it would have helped to connect to only the movable jaw at some point.

@ThePrufessa

5 жыл бұрын

My first thought is no it wouldn't make a difference. On second thought rust isn't conducive to electrical currents and if the bridge between the two parts is mostly rust on both sides then you might have a point.

@tubastuff

5 жыл бұрын

Exactly! You need to make sure that all parts of the item are connected to the supply source. Rust is a terrible conductor of electricity, so naturally, the movable jaw really wasn't connected to the source in any significant way.

For the electrolysis you have to provide a big surface area, so your sacrificial electrode has to be at least as big as your rusty part. the wrench also has a bad contact. you can clearly see it at 2:18

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Great point. Thank you and Happy New Year!

@Bike-Breakers

5 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm Happy new year! :)

@HankeyMountainGarage

5 жыл бұрын

First time he's done it. I'd love to see him do it on something else using what he learned now! MORE AMPERAGE!

@benellebrecht9990

5 жыл бұрын

I think if there would have been direct contact to part that adjusted it would have helped eat the rust off. Like you said, there is little to no bubbling occurring so it didn't have good contact

@Dalej99

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for info. I tried electrolysis before and didn't get it to work. My electrode was no where near as big as the part.

Thanks for the comparison!

You have some serious forearm gainz my man! Thank you for posting this video, very interesting(:

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

You are welcome!

for optimal efficiency the sacrificial metal anode should be cleaned with a wire brush at the end of every day. otherwise the rust cannot transfer properly

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Great point! Thank you

@Oink_Blaster

5 жыл бұрын

Or instead of using a sacrificial metal, swap it for a piece of graphite. Graphite will end up (a) easier to clean (b) doesn't need to be cleaned as often to keep the electrolysis process optimal.

@JohnLadan

5 жыл бұрын

It's better to use a passive electrode. Stainless steel is an affordable option, and graphite would likely work but I haven't tried it. The rust doesn't transfer between pieces, it's just reduced to Fe2+ from Fe3+ by adding electrons. Using a sacrificial electrode slows down the process by adding a bunch of Fe3+ to the water (in my experience).

@ImTheJoker4u

5 жыл бұрын

The two times Ive done it I used a length of rebar with great results. Ive got a piece of stainless bar stock I will have to try next time.

@philtripe

5 жыл бұрын

@@ImTheJoker4u you guys may be missing the point of sacrificial metal ... in a hot water heater once the sacrificial rod is gone the water starts to attack the tank, thats what i know so im assuming this sacrificial metal is needed for the same reason

My boys have a new favorite KZread channel. PROJECT FARM. They want to watch all your videos now. 12 & 8 years old. They like your tests.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much!! I've got two boys nearly the same age as yours.

@farvatron

5 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm Those are some LUCKY boys! You're the best man!

@Canthus13

5 жыл бұрын

This along with Cody's lab are among my six year old's favorites. He really makes the tests simple to understand.

@-danR

5 жыл бұрын

Will turpentine kill a septic tank faster than paint thinner? *Let's Find Out!*

Very interesting comparison - Thanks! I've also had good luck with Evaporust, (been very good on small old car parts) but now know what I will do with that old fish tank no one has used since my kids grew up and my old, OLD battery charger. Would love to see a comparison of small "Dremel style" grinders, corded and battery. Thank you for caring.

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

! Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks for sharing ! Sweet ! Great work on both.

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Here's to a rust-free 2019!

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

lol. Thank you and Happy New Year!

@davidp2888

5 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm You too, Todd. Keep up the great work.

I could be wrong but, I believe you meant to say “brass brush” when you were cleaning off rust instead of “copper”. Copper would make for pretty crappy brush. HA! Another well done & interesting video. Thanks & keep em coming.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

You are right! Brass brush. Thank you and Happy New Year!

@Canthus13

5 жыл бұрын

Well, brass is mostly copper, so he's mostly right.

@DownRange02

5 жыл бұрын

Canthus13 🤙🏼😜

4:58 the state of your copper brush! 😂 Great video, as always...

Thanks for sharing! I have used electrolysis for over 20 years. Its a great process, can be dumped down the drain too when done. Also, if you can't find washing soda you can make your own by baking baking soda. Most parts I do are in much smaller containers so you don't need a giant tank.

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.

Dang, you have a very positive fan base.👍🏻

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you and Happy New Year!

@grassroot011

5 жыл бұрын

Yeah, we leave the politics out of it, Also religion.

@kiyoponnn

5 жыл бұрын

@@grassroot011 lool

@HankeyMountainGarage

5 жыл бұрын

Well, we were till you brought it up. ;)

@emeltea33

5 жыл бұрын

@@grassroot011 you sound like a *insert flame* supporter. jk lol... trolling over.

It Really shows by looking through these comment sections that you truly care about your audience and does what not many creators do, you stay connected to your viewers even nearly 2 years on. Your Amazing

@ProjectFarm

4 жыл бұрын

I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for this. I love Evaporust. The only thing I’ve seen for hobbyists that comes close to it is electrolysis but I’m rarely in a position to set up a large electrified water bath or a safe way to run current thru it or have a sacrificial hunk of metal. Much safer & easier for me to use a non-toxic, single step process with no extra parts. Good to know I can make that choice and get a good result with either. I tested Evaporust on flash rust against vinegar water on 2 screwdrivers overnight. The Evaporust was good, rinsed off & given a quick buff with a magic eraser (or steel wool with some Evaporust in it has worked too.) My vinegared screw driver - the rust looked gone but it decayed the plastic handle. Upon rinsing, it immediately flash rusted back to its original state 😖. So it works, but is only safe for bare metal then Needs immediate attention with rust inhibitors afterward making it ok for thicker rust, or cleaning metal objects, but once the rust is off, the exposed surface is highly susceptible to more rust. Whereas the Evaporust can be rinsed and stays unrusted longer - even a few days, making it less fraught to get it protected, and my favorite thing. (Next I want to try using it in a rock tumbler on interesting looking metal bits I found while walking my dog.)

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.

Hey guy. Great videos. I love your testing. The reason the rust didn't come off of the moveable jaw of the wrench is because you didn't tie a wire directly to that piece, like the other comments mention. I think that's the first test you've ever done were a partial repetition would be worthy of a short video and also prove why both parts of the wrench didn't clean evenly without scrubbing. Keep up the good work and I'd love to see a video reviewing just that little test. Great channel! Jpol.

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Thanks for the video idea.

i am pretty knowledgeable on the physics of the electrolysis, so i have some insights: rust is a poor electrical conductor (it is a poor thermal one as well, but that isn't important here), so scraping off a small section to get better contact with the electrode to the rusted thing you are using will help. the distance the oxygen molecules have to travel decreases the speed of the process, so moving the sacrificial anode closer will help speed things up. the better the conductivity of the fluid the faster the process works, so mixing in the carbonate was a good idea. as travel time is important facing the sides that you want the rust to be removed and where you want it deposited (sacrificial anode) will help speed things along. try to get all pieces of an object connected to the electrode, other wise the electricity has to travel through the electrolyte solution to the piece to energize the pieces not connected, which slows the process down for those parts. cleaning the sacrificial anode will help keep the process from slowing down as the anode rusts and inhibits electrical flow. a steady amount of ionization keeps things flowing, as the voltage drops the ionization will shift, possibly adding rust to the thing you want rust removed from. overall the rust will be removed, but this slows the process greatly and may slightly alter the shape of the object being cleaned. more voltage isn't always better, the process on the rusted object and anode works at a given amount of voltage. the extra voltage that may help is based on ionizing the fluid, at a certain point the voltage will separate the water (even microscopically), increasing resistance and eating up more amperage while inhibiting oxygen flow slowing the process. so to speed thing up go ahead and increase voltage until you see a decrease or a slowing of the rate of bubbling per volt increase, then back it off to the 'good range' and keep in mind any sort of change (even taking the stuff out to weight it then putting it back) might change that range slightly. the process works based on flow, so it works best on the surface with lots of fluid around it, so it will work slower in nooks and crannies. stuff in water likes to separate out, agitating the water every so often can help, though keep in mind the water needs to be ionized to work, and agitation can disrupt localized ionization. so try no to agitate the water between the anode (sacrificial metal) and cathode (thing being cleaned).

@ProjectFarm

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the information!

@markm.3101

3 жыл бұрын

Would using a less noble metal help also?

@jamoecw

3 жыл бұрын

@@markm.3101 it is based on the charge of the metals. there are charts which list in order the galvanic action between metals. having two metals which react strongly will help, but the difference in electrical use to overcome this and accelerate it makes this a minor issue, but the different metals would be a factor.

@markm.3101

3 жыл бұрын

Ok just trying to compare it to how we protect underground structures. For instance with gas pipelines we use magnesium or zink. We energize carbon anodes with DC power also.

@jamoecw

3 жыл бұрын

@@markm.3101 it is the same principles as such, except you are trying to do it faster and smoother. the big difference is that it is in water, so the better comparison would be the anodes on boats. again same principles so you will see almost identical setups to some of the pipelines and such. it is very similar to the order of noble metals, though sometimes one ends up being more or less reactive due to some where reason (carbon/graphite is one which flips around with gold/platinum). with the boats you use zinc (or aluminum in fresh water sometimes), and then you energize the metal parts with DC electricity, though you try to match the electrical potential of the water when it reacts to the steel on your boat, as any higher eats your zinc mainly from the metals in the water (though it will eat some of the steel parts, sending the iron particles to your zinc). of course boats tend to move, and the more they move the less they rust. that is due to the ions causing the rust, and if the boats is moving then the ions have less time to work their magic. if the water is kept from moving you end up with more pock marks due to rust, due to bubbles forming and blocking the salt ions from getting to the iron atoms.

Protecting the metal after the rust removal process is the most important part

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Great point! Thank you and Happy New Year!

@alcopower5710

5 жыл бұрын

Barry McNicholl ........I use 3in1 oil on old railroad lanterns after the electrolysis.......usually a few coats and turns out very well.

@perrycalabrese3475

5 жыл бұрын

Coat the cleaned pieces in Evaporust when finished to prevent flash rusting.

@craigpetty2041

5 жыл бұрын

Spray paint

@Sackmatters

5 жыл бұрын

Wd-40 Any kind of penetrating oil Oil it’s self Those are my go to options and they work well.

My $2 patron well spent 👍🏽 . Thank for the info

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

You are welcome! Thanks for being a Patreon! Your donation is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for another very clear and concise video! Please keep it up!

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, will do!

It looks like the sliding jaw of your wrench was not making electrical contact ?

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

That may have been the issue. Thank you!

@notanotherrcchannel

5 жыл бұрын

I was thinking this too. I noticed when using electrolysis to clean cast iron that the side facing the electrode would clean up faster. GOOD video.

@scootergem

5 жыл бұрын

good thought!

Looked like part of the wrench was not in good contact with the electric feed. Should have relocated the wires.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

you're right

@richardgates7479

5 жыл бұрын

Just wrap the wire around every piece of metal, the current will go everywhere it can. Great video.

@Kinkkis

5 жыл бұрын

Or add one wire for moving jaw and screw

@richardgates7479

5 жыл бұрын

You don't need to add any wires, the wire just needs to touch every piece of metal. Wire is just metal, current travels through metal.

@Wildstar40

5 жыл бұрын

He should have fully dismantled the pipe wrench and wired each piece on its own.

Thanks for this video. I used both. First electrolysis but had some slight flash rusting after drying it. So then I soaked in evaporust overnight. This remove residual rust and protected it from flash rusting. Worked great!!

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.

as always a great comparison, thanks!!

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

You are welcome!

Two in one. Electrolysis in a container filled with Evapo-rust.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Interesting idea!

@jonanderson5137

5 жыл бұрын

This is a pretty crazy idea, I'd love to see this.

@JackScurlock

5 жыл бұрын

I use vinegar...works great so far...Happy New Year...captjack

@thomaslevy2119

5 жыл бұрын

I was going to say the same thing. It might work twice as fast?

@thereynolds2725

5 жыл бұрын

The thing is, it isn't just rust that breaks down. The molecules of the chemicals in the water can too. No telling what nasty gases might come out with Evapo-Rust.

Well done! A++

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you! I really enjoyed your most recent video on the homemade padlock shackle protector! Thank you and Happy New Year!

@wesleyhoehn4661

5 жыл бұрын

I agree

@thomashughes6951

5 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm plz test drywall anchors

@cobalticus2924

5 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm what's the name of that acid you use in some of your videos and what will happen if you mix some with gas and put the mixture into a mower and how long will it run?

@RawTopShot

5 жыл бұрын

cinnamon chuckler Muriatic Acid ( hydrochloric acid )

Thanks man! Excellent video! I started collecting olde tyme straight razors and they are rusty! Going to use the electrolysis method. MANY THANKS for the time and effort you put in to this for us. Chris

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks and you are welcome!

Very good comparison and thanks for this video!

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

You are welcome!

How about electrolysis in evapo-rust?

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the video idea!

@SealofPerfection

5 жыл бұрын

Exactly what I was about to post

@JeromeBill7718

5 жыл бұрын

I was thinking that too. Non flammable and non poisoning as far as i know. Im not sure what it will do with electricity breaking the chemical bonds though... especially since I don't know what it's made of.

@strengthchain

5 жыл бұрын

I'd like to see this! I use evaporust in the ultrasonic cleaner and it's awesome!

@GuiltyPleasures

5 жыл бұрын

Mind. Blown.

I use copper wire in the electrolysis tank and it seems to work really well. Maybe try steel vs aluminum vs copper and see which has a better result

@nechastivi3187

4 жыл бұрын

Copper should be the best one and then aluminium and steel is last one.

@jamoecw

4 жыл бұрын

@@nechastivi3187 gold wire should be the best, but i wouldn't use it. steel should be the worst of the three you gave, the rest follow exactly what you said (minus other materials like gold wire or something).

@nechastivi3187

4 жыл бұрын

@@jamoecw Yeah, as I said Silver > Gold > Copper > Aluminium > Steel Copper is the best for this bcs it's relatively cheap and only like 10 % less conductive than silver.

@trizkial7592

3 жыл бұрын

Nechastivi I believe copper is slightly better than gold but doesn’t matter lol

@richardvogt3227

3 жыл бұрын

I know copper works great. Haven't tried the others.

Great video! Love your content!

Thanks for your always informative and thoughtful videos. You are so many peoples go to guy for product decision making. Thanks 🙏

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks and you are welcome!

Feeling sad for the metal that was sacrificed.

@SegoMan

4 жыл бұрын

Or the goldfish being kicked out of her home..

@the_trashman

4 жыл бұрын

F for metal in chat fam

@ruachadam5227

3 жыл бұрын

...Phoenixspin, after six months, has your sad feeling subsided?...it's time to move on with your life...

@Phoenixspin

3 жыл бұрын

@@ruachadam5227 I still have a lingering sense of sadness but thanks for checking on me.

@ruachadam5227

3 жыл бұрын

@@Phoenixspin ...just don't turn to alcohol or drugs in an effort to get past this...

I've seen a video where a guy used a block of carbon (graphite) as the sacrificial electrode. It doesn't decompose like the steel, and keeps the solution cleaner. Trouble is, such carbon rods (as for electrical discharge machining) are costly. Perhaps a budget trip to Chernobyl might yield a suitable block of graphite? Just kidding! Happy new year, esp. to that long-suffering Toro!

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

lol. Thank you and Happy New Year!

@Forzoma

5 жыл бұрын

you can get carbon rods out of 6v lantern batteries you find in the camping/outdoor sections

@bman12three43

5 жыл бұрын

What about the center of an old 6 volt battery? I saw an old King of Random video (oof) where he used them as electrodes for an arc furnace. They are small, but you get 4 of them so that might still work.

@CheaddakerT.Snodgrass

5 жыл бұрын

I heard the Toro is getting his own channel.

@Teth47

5 жыл бұрын

Could also grind the copper off a carbon arc gouging rod. They're pretty inexpensive. Also the possibility of taking apart old lamp batteries and getting Carbon rods from them.

I love watching the videos , they’re very thorough, genuine and informative. Was wondering at some point if you could do an experiment on vehicle headlight bulbs? Which brand can you truly see farther with off the shelf incandescent and another possibly as LED. Thanks for your help with testing .

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.

Electrolysis works best when the (positive) sacrificial steel is in closer proximity to the rusty object - even better if it can surround the object. A piece of rebar bent into a loop makes an excellent/efficient sacrificial steel.

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback.

I’ve used the electrolysis method before with several sacrificial pieces in the same tank and it worked great after only 24 hours, even on small parts in a small container. Never used Evaporust however it seems to do well but too much time and cost!

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you and Happy New Year!

@ptonpc

5 жыл бұрын

Evaporust is good stuff however it is very expensive, especially here in the UK.

@grindersandgears3445

5 жыл бұрын

Yep, I've used Evaporust too, and it does work well but is expensive, and if you don't use a covered container it will all...evaporate...I think I'll have to look into an electrolysis setup.

@smokeythehuman3596

5 жыл бұрын

The hell is sacrificial steel

Great Job, Nice Video editing, short and sweet,

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much!

Another great video, I especially learned a lot from this one.

@ProjectFarm

11 ай бұрын

Thanks! Glad to hear!

Electrolysis works. The drawbacks are that it’s very time consuming, creates flammable hydrogen gas, and laborious to set up. However there are no toxic chemicals involved.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

All great points! Thank you

@ImTheJoker4u

5 жыл бұрын

Now there is an experiment I would line to see. Does electrolysis produce enough hydrogen to be flammable?

@Bob_Lob_Law

5 жыл бұрын

Flammable hydrogen gas? I consider that a bonus, not a drawback.

@jttech44

5 жыл бұрын

@@ImTheJoker4u Yes, it does. You're also producing oxygen too, so it's good for making a bang. Plenty of videos on youtube demonstrating this.

@RealCadde

5 жыл бұрын

@John Ulicky, in what timespan are you asking? Because over time if hydrogen pools (like in your ceiling) it can produce a helluva bang. I don't worry so much about hydrogen being flammable. I worry more about it going BANG.

Use a bigger sacrificial piece of steel I take screen or chicken wire fold it a couple times and line the whole tub then take a wooden stick and hang part in the middle with wire use a 15 to 20 amp charger has to be transformer type charger. It would only take 24 hours and all rust would be gone. Works on chromed parts as well removes rust without scratching. Clean screen as bubbles slow to inprove speed. Be careful tho make sure to turn off charger before connecting or disconnecting cause the hydrogen and oxygen gas it creates is highly flamable/explosive !!!

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you and Happy New Year!

@Al-Fiallos

5 жыл бұрын

You are absolutely right, you have to make the sacrificial anode into a "cage" so that you can suspend the cathode (rusty part) in the center, that way the electrolysis attacks the cathode from all directions.

@heyyou5189

5 жыл бұрын

I have put the anode as a flat steel panel in the bottom and a couple layers of fiberglass window screen on top and lay parts on that. Keeping the anode clean is important. Every 4-5 hours I clean the anode with a brush.

@grizzlygrizzle

5 жыл бұрын

And I have a slight suspicion that it might be best to maintain some good ventilation while the electrolysis is going on.

@Al-Fiallos

5 жыл бұрын

@@grizzlygrizzle Oh, most definately because electrolysis releases hydrogen gas as well as oxygen. And we all know what a hydrogen/oxygen igition can do. Isn't it ironic that H2O is so stable that it puts out fires, but separate them and 'boom!".

Both are excellent from want I’ve seen here and in other videos, my go to rust remover has been old fashion vinegar. Super cheap, I’ve used it on cast iron skillets and vintage hand tools. Still a wire brush will be needed, sometimes you just have to get physical. As always Todd does a excellent job, thorough yet concise. Todd your effort to inform and educate is much appreciated.

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@carpediemarts705

2 жыл бұрын

But what long lasting effect does the vinegar have on the steel? How much of it gets absorbed into the pores of the wrench or nut in this case?

@toddlosure4793

2 жыл бұрын

@@carpediemarts705 vinegar mixed 50/50 with water works just fine with no bad effects, once it is dry its gone. Professional painters, specifically bridge engineers, have used this for decades yo protect and paint structural grade steel. Personally I paint rusted steel with POR-15 after decaying and using the vinegar/water rinse. It opens up the pores in the bare steel and allows for better adhesion of the paint. Steel that can't get to air can't oxidize.

@noodlesoup2281

Жыл бұрын

Vinegar is absolutely rubbish for removing rust 😂

@shawnnorton2674

Жыл бұрын

@@noodlesoup2281 And your choice for rust removal? Enquiring minds want to know. Please share you knowledge. 😂

Keep up the great work!

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, will do!

damn, I wouldn't have guessed! thanks man :)

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you and Happy New Year!

I wonder how many times he's going to be told to put an extra wire on the wrench. Read, people. Read 🤦‍♂️

@ProjectFarm

4 жыл бұрын

lol. I'll definitely remember to put an extra wire on the wrench if I do this one again

@EmmottKelsey

4 жыл бұрын

@Paul J he really should put an extra wire on the wrench!

@CR3W1SH03S

4 жыл бұрын

We're going to keep telling him until he does it ;)

@fredjonson5781

4 жыл бұрын

He should have to hear it as many times as I thought it while watching the video.

@brycethoreson9216

4 жыл бұрын

People dont want to like a comment, they want to be heard

Thanks for helping me decide on which option to go with. Toss it and buy a new one.

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing.

mate! what u're doing is quite helpful and scientific. Many thanks

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

You are welcome!

woooooo!!!! a video from Project Farm right before the end of the year :) happy place happy place.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you and Happy New Year!

Thanks !! Great video ! Question: As time went by, I might try moving the negative connection to the slider and achieve better results on that piece? Wonder if it was a different metal content ? Or maybe a poor connection between the handle and slider ? This video was a huge learning lesson !! Thank You again !

Very cool project, great video. Thanks!

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Glad you liked it!

Hydrogen is evolved at the negative connection and oxygen at the positive one. It's the hydrogen which reacts with the iron oxide, reducing it to iron. Of course, the oxygen at the steel electrode used here creates an accelerated rust bucket!

@theopare7447

5 жыл бұрын

This bugged me so hard while watching glad i'm not the only one who noticed

@MrShmeve

5 жыл бұрын

YES!!! Other people that noticed!

@andrewwenner2781

5 жыл бұрын

Good catch!

Good reasoning for choices.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@brianlafollette7530

3 жыл бұрын

@@ProjectFarm could we see a comparison of rust conversion products, please? Thanks.

@Project farm : Your videos are awesome 👏🏻 One suggestion (and I know this video is old) : I use evaporust quite a lot in my ultrasonic cleaner (medical grade one), about 1/2 quart for 5 gallons of water heated at 50C, it is way more effective when the temp is higher so you can play with level of dissolution 👍🏻

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.

Love it. Did you happen to weigh the sacrificial piece before and after?

From my own experience I have found cleaning grade vinegar to be an excellent rust remover. I emphasize "cleaning" grade which is much stronger than food grade. It's a heck of a lot cheaper than Evapo-rust also.

@ProjectFarm

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the feedback

@johnqpublic9074

4 жыл бұрын

If you do this same setup in vinegar, with pure roofing zinc, brush with a stainless brush, the part will come out plated and new looking...

@SomeGuy-vo7we

2 жыл бұрын

Cleaning vinegar is actually weaker than food grade vinegar, as for its acidity, but cleaning vinegar also contains ammonium hydroxide.

Man I love this channel

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

I did a whole engine block from a hurricane Katrina Miata. I used detergent and ph-up (from the pool supply store). One of those yard signs with holes was used as a separator and an old disc rotor was the anode. The ph-up helps degrease and remove old paint. The block came out perfectly clean after power washing it. You don't need a gigantic tank. I did this in one of those cheap Sterilite storage totes which is why I needed the separator to make sure the block didn't short out to the rotor. As others have said, I brushed the rust away from the rotor periodically.

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing.

Really cool experiment. I just used evaporust to clean up some plate weights to build a counterweight for my Kubota BX. I've seen your logo on a lot of the channels I subscribe to, but never watched one of your videos. I just clicked the "SUBSCRIBE" button and gave you a big thumbs up.

@ProjectFarm

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Thanks for watching and subscribing!

I was about to say the same thing. I think since the wrench has 3 moving parts, looks like the handle part was probably getting most of electrolysis effect, the rust might have made a bad connection between all the moving parts

this is great,...i think you would have gained movement on the wrench much quicker if the wire was on the moving section. you could see that the handle section was getting much cleaner than the travel section, the current travel had to pass through the handle section to get to the travel section. I believe this would have made a significant difference in the time it took to clean it up. very good videos and very informative. this will be beneficial to anyone on the outside looking in to using electrolysis when cleaning metal.

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the constructive feedback.

Thanks for posting, it is very informative.

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

Wow simple and effective electrolysis..I’ve read about on numerous forums. You made look too easy, thank you..

@ProjectFarm

3 жыл бұрын

You are welcome!

Good vid; good info. What was the amp setting on the charger? Gotta try this. Big thumbs up.

@ProjectFarm

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@projectanything7665

4 жыл бұрын

You can use a 10 amp manual charger. More is better but 10 works. Don't use a automatic charger.

@tablature6121

4 жыл бұрын

@@projectanything7665 Thank you. Can do.