Very matter-of-fact. Gets right down to business. Carefully explained. Good demonstration. This type of installation should satisfy the code the way the post is blocked and bolted. As Wood Doo told us, "This post will be rock solid for a good 30 years. Good Job!

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

Wow! What a kind comment! Thanks for watching.

You save my project, with simple strong and great ideas. Thank you ✅

@wooddoofus

Ай бұрын

Glad to be of service! Thanks for watching!

I'm a big fan of overbuilding things. You have changed my approach on new deck posts that I'm about to install. THANK YOU for sharing!

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

Nice! Thanks for watching.

I'm building my deck the same way. All in all it'll cost me an extra $100, but I'm not building it with profit in mind. The deck I'm replacing was built all kinds of wrong and still lasted 50 years. I know mine will be level, square, and much stronger in the end, and will outlast me.

@wooddoofus

4 ай бұрын

Awesome! Good luck on your project!

@Aqua_Jim

4 ай бұрын

The problem with this is the water doesn’t drain and once you put deck boards over this it will eventually rot out. I do dock repair and anytime the wood is deteriorating it’s situations like this where water can’t drain and gets trapped.

Thank you for a great video! I am doing the exact same deck construction and this video hit the nail on the head… along with the lag bolts.

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for checking it out!

Nice, I like the idea of handrail posts being bolted to the inside of the “rim” . I also like that same post going all the way down to the ground. Also a drop beam 18 inches away.

Great presentation. I am going to be building a 12' x 16' shade area on my deck. I am using 6" x 6" pt posts for the corners and the top rail. I found your video informative. Thank you for sharing.

@wooddoofus

5 ай бұрын

Awesome! Thanks for watching!

Good job dude. That was a very good concept for supporting rail posts, and good quality video. Thanks!

@wooddoofus

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Very good well explained video. Can't see a pro doing it any better especially when the original post design had the structural screw buried into solid air!

@wooddoofus

8 ай бұрын

Yep.😂 Thanks for watching!

I have fascia on mine so the protruding heads of the lags would have to be countersunk, but that shouldn't compromise anything significantly.

I'm doing a 46x16 and doing my posts similar to yours. The science behind doing posts is worth thinking about. You can run a couple hefty carriage bolts through the outside rim joist through the 4x4 with a washer/bolt on the back. This is probably the norm for DIY'ers, and while strong back and forth, and side to side, the back and forth will twist your rim joist. Doubling up the rim joist with a lot of deep screws into the joists is a not too expensive addition which will help a lot with that flexing. A lot of my posts seem to fall in the middle of a joist run, so I am adding a 2x scrap on both sides and a blocker behind the 4x4. The 2x scraps just give a little more left-right support to the 4x4, and the blocker behind the 4x4 support it from back and front leaning or pulling on the railing and rim joist flexing. I've got about 18 posts, and saved about 25-30% by going with 1/2" x 7' galv hex bolts, 2 washer and a nut. Putting a slight countersink on the rim joist and similar on the inside of the facia piece alleviates the problem is seeing hex heads. I also ended up getting 5g Liquid Rubber to coat the ~1000 LF of joists vs joint tape. JT would have run $300-400 minimum, while the LR was $180 5g and I still have about 1/2 left.

@wooddoofus

11 ай бұрын

Great input! Definitely something to think about.

I used an auger bit and it constantly got stick. Switched to a drill bit - much better. And only go in an inch at a time.

Great video with good ideas

Nice. You could also just nail the living shit out of it, but this is better and up to code.

I actually built my deck very similarly. The only thing is the bolts should go through your double rim joists because the joist load (shear load weight) is being transferred from your joists to your dbl rim joist and your ledger. The way you have it the weight that the bolts are carrying is only on the outer rim joists

@boots7859

11 ай бұрын

Just deleted a long comment, however what he did makes good sense. If he ran the CB's front to back as you suggest, where would the nuts end up? On the back of the 4x4, or the scrap 4x4? That doesn't give him any forward-back support except for some screws in the sides. The way he did it, the 4x4 already constrained by joists on either side, and its forward-back movement is restrained by the 2 CBs running side to side. If that 4x4 ever really starts moving, it'll take enough force that it'll blow that scrap 4x4 with the itty-bitty screws right out of the way. I've got a lot of posts not near a joist and was going to run them with CB front to back as I have a double rim joist and blocking behind from joist to joist. Now I'm rethinking because of the above, but doing that on a non-corner might be impossible. Either way, he's got 2 1/2" bolts running through his 4x4 through a joist on either side, so probably not much flex for the front rim joist. Heavy enough weight might start splitting the side joists, but if he adds a 2x behind that scrap 4x4 he can get some additional support from the joist behind it.

@TheMoneyBed

11 ай бұрын

@boots7859 why would anyone add 2x blocking behind a larger joist? I block with the same dimension as I frame. So my bolts went through double 2x10 rim joists, the 4x4 post and through a 2x10 blocking that was secured between two joists. Deck frame is solid and built to support the full load transfer from the joist through the CBs.

Great suggestions thanks. I'm planning to upgrade our existing deck where most of it needs replacing. I'd like to have seen how you assembled the fittings you describe which would have been really useful...

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching! I'm not exactly sure what fittings you're asking about. I do have a deck series playlist on my channel with more videos to come. Like you, I've been upgrading my existing deck for almost 2 years now. 🤣

@SuccessShared

Жыл бұрын

@@wooddoofus Apologies for not being clearer. I was referring to the actual procedure for assembling the upright post with its supports so I actually see how and in what order you put it together. I need to replace my upright posts so it would be useful

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

Oh, I gotcha. For me, I clamp on an oversized post in place after I round over the corners. 48 inches usually is plenty so I can trim the top off to it's final height with a circ saw. I clamp it as I use the post leveler and then set it with some decking screws. This is a good time to add the blocking. Then I drill all the way through with my half inch bit. I pound the bolts in with a hammer and add the washers and nuts to the other end. Tighten with a crescent wrench. Good luck on your deck!

@SuccessShared

Жыл бұрын

@@wooddoofus Brilliant! That's what I mean! Thanks

I like the Ryobi drill. I am a green guy also.😀

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

I actually just upgraded to a Makita driver set. Way better but I still have tons of Ryobi tools. Thanks for watching!

I like everything about this connection but instead of carriage bolts (which I thought about using) I chose 1/2” galvanized hex heads with a large washer. So I could get the added surface contact. But I’m not a contractor either. I start more projects than I finish too, so….Hey, I liked the art on your intro, subscribed!

@wooddoofus

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks pal! The washer seems like a great option for surface grab. I guess I like the clean look of carriage bolts.

@rikityrik

2 жыл бұрын

@@wooddoofus I agree, I only used hex bolts because there’s a 2x8 fascia board installed over them. A lot of it I guess just has to do with layout of the deck.

@boots7859

11 ай бұрын

Just read a site from a screw manf IIRC, and they suggest using 2x washers on a CB, one on the nut end and one on the head end. Using the washer gives you ~30% more surface area which translates to more clamping force before the head starts pulling under the surface of the board. A little tricky to find washers with a square hole, and to keep it from spinning while torquing.

You aren’t a professional, which explains why you did it to last! I really like your approach. A professional would be in and out as soon as possible. Thx!

@wooddoofus

10 ай бұрын

Thanks for checking outy video.

Great Video!

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Good instructional. thanks

@wooddoofus

8 ай бұрын

Thanks for checking it out!

Would this support a 6ft privacy wall on a deck about the same height?

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

Yes, I think with 2 half inch carriage bolts and a double banded rim to attach them, I believe it couldn't support a 6 foot wall. The blocking around the base of the post would be critical.

Thanks!

That’s dope I learned something new today haha

@wooddoofus

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Talk about overkill!

@stevelopez372

Ай бұрын

Nonsense this is what the Building Code should require but doesn’t. Remember, Building to minimum Code is the crummiest construction allowed by law.

Would this work for lean 2 roof over my deck?

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

I'm not sure. Since I'm just a diy guy, I try not to overstep with advice I'm not sure about.

Only thing I would have done differently is the 4x4 block you used, I would not have the end grain up.

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

You're right. I've had that comment before. I guess it would last a lot longer if side grain faced up. Thanks for watching!

@mm88swrt

Жыл бұрын

@Wood Doofus don't get me wrong, if you sealed all your cuts with say green copper or whatever it wouldn't be an issue for many many years. Everyone has an opinion these days though haha! I'm in the middle of doing this almost exactly the same. I just have some 4x8 pt board scraps I got from work that I'm using instead of 4x4. Doing it the exact same way. Keep up the good work!

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words! Good luck on your project!

@boots7859

11 ай бұрын

And add a 2x behind it so it can get support from that other joist. Get a gallon of liquid rubber instead of joist tape. I've got a couple coats on a 48x16 deck and still have more than 1/2 5g bucket left. Takes longer, but way cheaper and much thicker than actual joist tape.

Great but why not show the entire process?

@wooddoofus

3 ай бұрын

I wish I was more forward thinking. I thought about making this video after I was done installing. I have some more posts coming up on my endless deck project. I will try to remember to make a video with the process. Thanks for watching!

Спасибо!

The correct term is in fact “plumb”not level.level is horizontal and plumb is vertical.Example,I used my level to plumb the post! PLUMB !

@wooddoofus

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the input. I will try to speak better in the future.

@boots7859

11 ай бұрын

There's always a grammer nazi in the comments. @Oneguyinc.4 subscribers No videos

@artetaDagoat

4 ай бұрын

What's the example for horizontal application?

Di#k videos? I swear thats what you said at first. Thanks for the video! Helpful!

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

😂 I guess I should rewatch and see what you mean. Thanks for watching!

Ryobi bro 😂

Ryobi

Very well explained. Ty!

@wooddoofus

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching!