I did this replacement yesterday. Thought I would share my experience and lend some pointers to anyone that's needing to do this. First thing: Hose clips - you may need some spares on hand. If you are careful when removing the two hose clips, you should be able to reuse them. They are the 'crimped' type: To remove them, you need to put a small screwdriver in the crimped part and gently lever the crimp apart. This will release some of the tension and you can then gently prise up the end of the clip to release it from the little teeth holding it in place. Be careful not to bend it out of shape. If you think you're not going to manage this bit without damaging the clip then you'll need to have a couple of jubilee clips to hand (the screw type). You will need 1x 35mm and 1x 45mm (don't hold me to those sizes - I just got them by measuring the ones I removed, so they are approx). If you managed to remove the 2 original clips without destroying them then you can reuse them by simply putting back in place, squeezing until the little teeth catch in their notches and then using a wire crimper to squeeze the crimped part shut again. OK, now for the actual replacement procedure. 1. UNPLUG from mains!! 2. Remove the filters and sponge out any water from the sump. This should help keep everything dry when you remove the heater/pump module. 3. Gently lay the dishwasher on its back, taking care not to damage the hoses behind. Also be really careful of the single back foot as it bends easily. If you can get two people on this part I'd recommend it. 4. Now, working from the base of the machine, push down the two plastic clips at the top of the white service panel and pull out towards you. It then lifts upwards slightly to clear the bottom two slots. Don't pull the panel away too quickly as you then have to disconnect a lead from the machine to the panel before it's completely free. 5. You will now see the Heater/Pump module. Disconnect the earth lead from top of module. Disconnect the blue lead from beneath the module. Disconnect the black lead (might be brown) from the side of the module. I had difficulty disconnecting the black lead - the connector needed a very firm pull. Be careful not to pull on the actual leads. The black lead is the power to the heating part of the module. I would recommend using a meter on the heater to test the resistance/continuity to make sure the problem actually lies with the heater (if it doesn't then it could be the PCB controller). To test, set your meter to 200Ω then place the probes on each of the metal connector prongs on heater (where you removed the black lead connector). You should get a reading between 29 and 32 (or there abouts - I read somewhere that it should be 29.x but my replacement heater had 31.8 on the box and actually tested at 32.4). If you get a reading of 1 or far outside the ranges mentioned, then the heater is bad. 6. Now you've verified that the heater is broken, it's time to remove it. First remove the hose clip from the top hose (just the top-left one) and then the one beneath it. Now gently prise each hose off of the module. You may get a little water leakage here so have paper towels in hand as you do this. The heater/motor module can now be lifted upwards, allowing the three retaining prongs to lift out of the rubber wedge at the front of the service panel. 7. Now you have to separate the heater and the motor. To separate you need to twist the heater so the 4 tabs release from the slots of the motor. The best way I can describe it is to think of a Bayonet Cap on a lightbulb. The heater will only twist one way. Twisting is tricky as the seal is very tight. To do it I took the advice of Toby Williams. I lay the module on the floor, put one foot on the motor, put a screwdriver handle in the outlet and then steadily pulled on the screwdriver. Be careful, could be really easy to rip your hands up here! 8. Once the two modules are separated (and pay attention to the alignment of each module as you need to put it back correctly), remove the o-ring seal from the motor. Give the motor part a little clean as you'll undoubtedly have a bit of scale in there. You'll want to have the circumference of the motor, where the o-ring sits, as clean as possible, to make a good seal with the new o-ring (that comes with the new heater). Put the new o-ring in place. 9. Put the new heater and the motor together. Remember they have to be in the correct position in relation to each other. I found it hard to get them together again. You really have to push them together hard, to compress the seal, and then twist. Once Id managed to get the tabs a little bit within the slots, I then clamped the motor between my knees, put screwdriver handle in the heater outlet and then twisted. Again be careful - easy to do yourself an injury here. 10. Now the two modules are together, it's time to put back into machine. Slot the three prongs back in the rubber wedge at front of service panel, and gently push the module down into place. Put your hose clips in place, reconnect the two hoses, paying attention to the little rubber arrows on the hoses to make sure everything's lined up correctly and pushed on far enough. Now tighten your clips. 11. Reconnect the earth to the tab on top of the heater. Reconnect the blue leads to the base of the motor. Reconnect the Black leads to the connector on the heater. 12. Slide the two lower tabs in place on the service panel. Reconnect the last lead, from the machine to the panel, then push panel closed, making sure the top clips snap into place. 13. Stand the machine up again - probably best to have two people do this to avoid bending the back foot. 14. Put filter back in place. Connect to mains again and you should be good to go. I'd put a test wash on first before putting the machine back in place. Hope this helps - should save you guys a few quid in call-out charges.

Great advice from Marc Cohen 6 years ago and still relatively easy to do - apart from the separation of the unit parts, I put the unit into a Workmate and undid it - getting it back together needed to wedge it in the jaws and then push down hard! All seems to be working ok.

Hi, I did this. Some comments I hope will help others : 1) You need to lie dishwasher on front to get to panel. When disconnecting rubber hoses from pump, water came out and went into PCB. Recommend put tea towel under pump before remove hoses 2) Separating pump in half not obvious. Put it on floor, put foot on it, stick thumb in outlet pipe and twist hard 3) Afterwards, lights still flashing after first wash, I had to let full wash cycle go without opening doors, then stopped flashing

Now sorted ... Thanks for all the tips. Lets hope I can put it all back together now!

Thanks for the emails, if you need any help get in touch...just remember that the two hoses are secured with jubilee style clips, you need to prise these off by applying pressure onto the crimped part. Bin and replace with new. Hope this helps at least one person..... I was looking everywhere to get info for this fault with no luck so just opened it up and looked for the problem.

Its a complete unit, the replacement part has both pump and heating element. The unit itself is fastened to the was with black plastic clips, not screws. Its got some movement but the hose clips secure it even more. Remove the hose clips first then remove the part (if you havent already) then replace the entire unit...good luck

@danielbrooks8520

4 жыл бұрын

Mr W hi I know this post was years ago but I actually have indesit model Dif04B1 and it’s running cold been advised this could be problem is it best to just replace the whole heater and pump combined or split it as some others have stated basically is it easier to just do whole thing thanks dan

@gwalker007

4 жыл бұрын

@@danielbrooks8520 just seen this, have you sorted it? If it's running cold then you need to replace the pump and heating element as its all one unit.

Hi, when separating the pump in half does it twist off clockwise or anti-clockwise?

Does the motor have to be unscrewed before trying to separate them?

Hi. I've ordered a replacement heater but can't seem to separate it from the pump It's driving me mad! Any advice? Cheers. Dan.

@Brian67588

6 жыл бұрын

If anyone else is wondering, it turns anticlockwise to separate. Take a pic beforehand or remember the orientation of the motor before separating and fitting new heater. Unscrew over sink, there is always more water inside. (Pressing slightly together while turning should help, you need to do it while screwing back new part) There are three grippe rubber slots in dishwasher frame that you slide the complete unit back into before reattaching hoses. For plastic panel underneath (to gain access) with no screws, squeeze the two black clips and push through (this is flood detection part), then release white clips towards front of unit with a flat head screw driver. Don't miss the separate earth connection and the power to the motor at top. I found it easier to turn entire dishwasher onto it's head (out in a garage or shed) for light and access but there may be issues with water leakage.

@eoghankelly3764

10 ай бұрын

Thank you so much for this video. I wouldn’t have been able to diagnose the problem, never mind fix it without your advice. The heating element replacement cost €70 but I’m sure the dishwasher would have been a write off had I called the plumber!

How cost repair? :)

£45 for part. just plug it in from underneath the washer. v easy

Or even......The unit itself is fastened with black plastic clips......:-/