Women boulder# Katja Kadic | Akiyo Noguchi | Aya Onoe | Miho Nonaka | Petra Klingler | Shauna Coxsey 1 20:20 25:04 27:30 32:00 34:05 38:50 2 40:55 45:24 49:45 54:10 58:46 1:03:20 3 1:08:04 1:13:05 1:17:55 1:22:25 1:26:50 1:31:36 4 1:34:15 1:38:45 1:43:10 1:47:55 1:52:37 1:57:17 Men boulder# Aleksei Rubstov | Rei Sugimoto | Tomoa Narasaki | Jakob Schubert | Kokoro Fujii | Jongwon Chon 1 20:20 25:04 27:30 32:00 34:05 38:50 2 40:55 45:24 49:45 54:10 58:46 1:03:20 3 1:08:04 1:13:05 1:17:55 1:22:25 1:26:50 1:31:36 4 1:34:15 1:38:45 1:43:10 1:47:55 1:52:37 1:57:17

@RonaldoMessina

7 жыл бұрын

much appreciated!

@semihumid

7 жыл бұрын

thanks a lot :)

@Breeelax

7 жыл бұрын

MVP right here

@secretcctvcameraOG

7 жыл бұрын

n3v3rd1e Thank you very much

the greatest finish of all ifsc times!!

Gosh, the two climbers at the same time, that really sucks! So happy they've finally decided to change that!

Yeah I really like getting a shot of the empty part of the wall at the exact moment someone makes a top. GJ guys.

1:54:34 Petra put a chalk mark on the volume then the brusher got rid of it but it looks like the official might have said something about it, rule 3.4.2 does state competitors may only use chalk for their hands

Nice comp and very very pleasant commentating again, ifsc would not be the same without Charlie Boscoe

@l.k.1011

6 жыл бұрын

true that! I ve never seen a sport event with a commentator who fits better than charlie boscoe for bouldering. very enjoyable!

That buzz beater double top!

I came to know about this sport today, and its world cup happened in India too!! WOW!!

Oh this is nice, the short Mumbai vignette at the start :)

2:00:27 *reaches for chalk bag*, "aw crap"

Very annoying to watch with the camera cutting back a forward between the men and women so that you don't get to see either the male or female climber climb the whole boulder. MUCH better in the events in Japan where the TV people insist on separating the mens and womens event.

Climbing starts at 20:20

Great competition. The cameraman does seem to struggle a bit with the frame at the beginning but it's gets better from the second boulder on

49:30 "He's a little ball of energy" "Yeah. He's crazy." LOL

The overall tone on the Internet has become quite bothering, but the comments under IFSC World Cups do have a special negativity. Why is it so much complaining about literally everything? Is that really necessary?

@mirotrifonov5095

7 жыл бұрын

Couldn't agree more, especially given the fact that we are getting the stream for free. Seems a bit hypocritical to complain so much about quality when they gave up on a TV deal, so everyone can watch it here.

@brienelwoodwashburn2839

6 жыл бұрын

I wasn't aware that they passed up on a tv deal, and if that is in fact what happened it is great of them to provide this content essentially free to users via KZread. However, it can sometimes be difficult to be understanding about certain things that are addressed in the comments in literally every single competition video (at least for bouldering). Take, for example, 2:00:57. This is a climbing competition, where the competitors always climb up, or, occasionally, traverse sideways. There is nothing in the bottom 50% of that shot that is remotely interesting, and everything in the top 50% and above that is. Yet every competition, climbers make huge moves out of frame, and then the camera moves to follow them 1-5 seconds later. Half the time we don't even get a replay (this is KZread, we can give ourselves a replay, but we have to actually see the content to be able to do so). It is frankly very surprising to me that this still occurs given how easy the problem is to solve. W1/M1 exemplifies another issue we see all the time. 90% of the focus was on W1. People were actually topping and doing interesting things on M1, there is no reason not to split time somewhat evenly, or at least picture-in-picture more often. The problems are even close enough to see both climbers in the same shot, but that rarely happened. It is great of them to provide this content to us free of charge, and I'm very grateful for that, but it can be frustrating to see a total lack of progress in certain areas that should be really easy to fix. I would argue that the two issues I've pointed out have seen virtually no change in years. I would say, though, more tact and constructive criticism would be nice. On a positive note, with experienced gained over the years the commentary has become far less banal (though I can't say the same for the in-arena announcers and their "allez!"s.... That's the name of the game for live commentary, unfortunately.) I'd still like more analysis on why certain techniques worked or failed (e.g., the reason Miho and Shauna were able to make the dynamic move on W2 is because they dragged their left hand on the large red volume to reduce their swing, thereby allowing them to keep their grip with the right hand), but it has certainly gotten better.

@pieceofpecanpie

6 жыл бұрын

I agree. Despite there being plenty of room to improve on the coverage, commentary and running at a lot of these events the stream of whiny complaints and negativity doesn't read as very constructive a lot of the time.

Yay for the interviews at the start!

no replay of the male winner? damn

Uno dei finali più belli!

Shauna did not top with both hands in time. The clocks are synced. The judges are giving favors here. I've seen other videos where they dinged a Japanese guy for not holding exactly 3 seconds when topping. However, here they let the girl have it even though her left hand wasn't on the piece before the 4 mins? stick to the rules judges...

Thanks for the video! :)

amazing final !!!

006 was indeed a villain in Goldeneye. Janus/Alec Trevelyan

Is making tick marks with chalk not allowed? It seemed Petra tried and then they brushed it away after she did so.

Janja is not in finals :'(

#IFSCwc Jan Hojer broke 3 holds of the wall in 2015

i miss the interviews afterwards :(

@Jebedy

7 жыл бұрын

I agree. I can understand why they cut out the podiums because there was often a twenty minute wait in which nothing happened, but surely the interviews could happen immediately like they do in so many other sporting events. A replay of Chon topping problem 4 would have been nice too... considering the hardest part (the beginning) was never even shown.

Sometimes the camera work looks like thy just trolling you. Please ifsc stop that.

@BrianLeung

7 жыл бұрын

Camera work is usually contracted out to local freelancers. Often people that do not have experience climbing, let alone filming a climbing competition. This means that IFSC often do not have a lot of control over the quality of the camera work. However, the director works for IFSC so there is a bit of control in that respect.

멋있다 천종원!! 감동입니다. 진심으로.

Please find a commentator who knows the difference between Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka.

What's the name of the girl who took a trip around Mumbai with the host ? I heard "Elena Yip" or something?

@mathias5277

7 жыл бұрын

Hailong Mo Alaanah Yip

good vibes, and music =) and cool Competition and Boulders

Anyone else find it incredibly annoying that the stadium's announcer yelled "Come on [climber's name]! Alle!" like 90% of the time. Literally would annoy the shit out of me if I was climbing. Way to hire someone who doesn't know a thing about climbing and whose greatest form of input is "Lets go climbers!".

@Ant02496-

7 жыл бұрын

its actually quiet good for the competitors.

@wbraun88

7 жыл бұрын

Couldn't agree more. Was about to write the same comment. If I were a competitor and the useless announcer just yelled the same shit all the time I would wear ear plugs.

@ALifeOfWine

7 жыл бұрын

David Vorobyov This obviously doesn't apply to everyone but usually when you're in the zone all you can hear is the level of background noise, so the commentator could be slagging off your mother and you wouldn't even realise. In my experience silence is the worst for breaking concentration, so just the fact she's making any noise is a good thing.

@tacticalchunder1207

7 жыл бұрын

David Vorobyov I literally want to punch her. So annoying. I think the loud music detracts from the experience too.

@nopro_films

6 жыл бұрын

david, this is a common way to cheer climbers among the climbing community, it's definitely ok to hear someone yelling "Alè!" at you, as a climber i know that another member of my community is helping me when i hear this and i'm happy with that!

PLEASE fire the camera man

1:39:50 careful headphone users

Jacob on 3: His arms are too long, pushing body too far up and back to the wall. Impossible to hold

1: Katja Kadic

WHOOOOT!!!!!! DENVER BRONCOS HAT!!!!!

poor aya, only tall people problems

best end ever. Great Job Mumbai

So I can't be the only one who thinks the ifsc logo at the beginning of the video could have been placed better haha! Poor Indian climber has the logos hand up his butt

Really poor camera work and camera changes this comp. Get your shit together IFSC

@ewanpakula2810

7 жыл бұрын

they are all only volunteers calm your shit

@cyrilgermain2654

7 жыл бұрын

Volunteering doesn't mean you can't be professional. Obviously what needs to happen is for the federation to PAY these people instead of relying on free work to make money. But if that's not happening, then volunteers ought to be screened. But again, quality works isn't/shouldn't be free.

@ewanpakula2810

7 жыл бұрын

yes they definatley should be paid although this would be hard as a permanent team would have to travel round the world which would be too costly realistically

@Morse2020

7 жыл бұрын

I think the IFSC only licenses out the format, the video is the responsibility of each event organiser, hence why it can be so hit and miss.

@cyrilgermain2654

7 жыл бұрын

That's only agreeing with me...The IFSC licence the format. Which mean they're free to impose guidelines about volunteer use, workers experience and skills, etc.

Can we get the announcers to say "Women", instead of "girls"? Alternately, use "boys" and "girls" instead.....doesn't make a lot of sense to say "Men" and "Girls", sends a poor message.

Can someone please tell Charlie it´s not necessary to repeat the rules of bouldering every comp. If people have enough interest to watch a worldcup, they can look up the rules themselves.

@pieceofpecanpie

6 жыл бұрын

Couldn't disagree more. The uninitiated should be afforded some information to help them interpret what they're watching to enhance their viewing experience. I don't even find Charlie that repetitive, but since you know it so well you could always mute him.