I finished the DeLorean! Check this out! kzread.info/dash/bejne/dqd12ritaZfZkps.html

A suggestion: while expensive, it might be pertinent to actually go and clean up ALL the corrosion in the valley and then coat it in a layer of Alodine like what would be done in aviation on aluminum, just as a peace of mind thing. You can't gain back the aluminum, but you can at least protect the aluminum you do have from corroding. Generally it's used for creating a surface for paint to stick to in airplanes but in your case, I'm wondering if a few coats of that won't hurt, and then some high temp engine paint in something a bit brighter so you can see any oil leakage in the future.

@paulnielsen8528

2 ай бұрын

I bet you just watched Rebuild Rescue 45 minutes ago.

@hamood1234fool

2 ай бұрын

I was thinking of filling it with carbon fiber and resin

@DillysADV

2 ай бұрын

I was thinking even cheaper.. fill the valley bottom with JB Weld. It would bond to reinforce the material that is still there. Either way,if it is going to fail and there ain't anything you can do about it, run it until it gives...

@kenstrain4366

2 ай бұрын

@@DillysADV That was my thoughts too.

@greggdalton4110

2 ай бұрын

Could you coat the top of the valley of life (thinking positive) with something like JB weld? And yes you are right I am not a car guy.I change oil and do brakes that is all. And I enjoy your all your videos. Good luck!

You should look into doing dry ice blasting for the entire underneath!! It’s way cleaner and does a great job.

@larrysorenson4789

Ай бұрын

The Ice guys charge a ton for their process. Imagine if some guy had a mobile unit so that the zillion in- progress projects could get a bit cleaner during the project.

I would consider using block fill to just fill in the valley up to just over the top of the oil passage. Block fill is designed to withstand a lot more pressure than this engine will ever see and would seal off the block from any outside material. Once cured the block fill would restore and increase any strength loss the engine block might have experienced. Just a thought.

@Mikefngarage

Ай бұрын

LS conversion. would get things sorted. I would not keep that engine in there. make it run good then.

@aominelaw981

Күн бұрын

I was thinking something similar. Like clean the rusty parts and then cover it with new aluminium, let it cure. But your idea is probably more future proof.

Pro tip - forget about that metal pipe in the valley (not the Y pipe, the foot long one leading to the heater core). Just run a long silicone or rubber heater hose out of the valley. Eliminates 2 seams that could leak that are impossible to get to without removing the manifold again.

I've used this method with outstanding results. Cleaning that valley I'd use a Dremel Tool with the extension shaft and a cup style wire brush, it's easy to control the pressure without gouging any more holes, gotta use a little finesse while doing this, and all the while using your shop vacuum sucking up any accumulated debris. Then follow up sealing up the valley with the many suggested materials from your viewers. BUT no more poking around in there with screwdrivers and other sharp metal tools!

Idk if you've already ordered them, but I highly suggest replacing the fuel injector lines. Also, if the engine goes, a common swap is the Eagle 3.0L PRV engine. Decent bit more power and easier to work on. Do the manual as well at the same time.

What would you guys do? Run it until it blows up, replace the engine or ????

@cardude8996

2 ай бұрын

Replace with original motor

@orange2352

2 ай бұрын

Blow it up then replace!

@AlexKingstone

2 ай бұрын

I would run until it goes bad

@ChesterJLampwick78

2 ай бұрын

Needs to be an LS Swap.

@Grumpyoldman666

2 ай бұрын

Turbo V8 and restonod it with some suspension and power mods

I personally think you should clean the valley as best as you can, then coat it in Alodine. I'd go as far as reinforcing all of the deeper pockets with aluminium weld, coat the whole thing in Alodine, then fill up the valley with JB-Weld to also make it slanted towards the front, so it could drip out of the valley, if there would be any more leaks.

@SaraMorgan-ym6ue

24 күн бұрын

that smoke is just the engine puking out the last of the crap that built up in the engine over those 30 years of sitting

@myrmeko

24 күн бұрын

@@SaraMorgan-ym6ue I didn't say anything about smoke tho.

What a great project. As always your optimism, determination and knowledge make these huge projects possible. It’s encouragement to everyone watching.

Regarding the valley of death. I would coat it with something. Perhaps epoxy. I think it would fill in the rough areas, seal and protect it from future corrosion. I've used it for restoring old motorcycle-tanks. Also I notice someone suggested Alodine. I'm not familiar with it, but I would look into it as well. Fun videos. Thx. Barry :-)

If you're considering replacing the engine anyway, I would remove all the corrosion, coat it with POR15 then fill the valley to level with JB weld which would eliminate any place for future moisture and dirt to gather. JB weld is heat resistant to higher than intake temperature. Between the POR15 and the JB you should be okay. There are chemicals out there that will remove corrosion from aluminum. Believe it or not, Evaporust removes corrosion beautifully from all kinds of metals as well as rust, though I've never tried it on aluminum, it certainly wouldn't hurt to try.

As a retired ase with 2 year associate degree in specialized automotive technology have not seen one that horrible that was in such good shape when cleaned out. You got to it in time my cat dude Congratulations 🍾

I can’t believe you didn’t protect those open ports when you were digging and flipping dirt in the valley.

@ahalstead40

2 ай бұрын

I'm glad I'm not the only one who winced seeing that

@aydaenlynch2088

2 ай бұрын

Oof I know. I was wincing while the cut off wheel sparks shot up around the open manifold ports. 😬

@ianwheeler683

2 ай бұрын

First thing l thought, bit amateur hour to be honest.

@youtubevoyeur4104

2 ай бұрын

Came here for these comments, I was horrified watching the grinder sparks going everywhere with the ports open and the vacuum poking around!

@jamesemcclure

2 ай бұрын

If Alex is thinking of replacing the engine then it doesn't matter

Could you clean it really well and use some sort of epoxy to seal and protect that area? Also, an LS swap in these are pretty cool!

@ryanabitter

2 ай бұрын

Agreed, kind of like what the Honda guys use to fill around the outside of the cylinder walls

@Battlefresh

Ай бұрын

I would use Devcon F aluminum epoxy. It pours thick and will seal and protect that aluminum underneath and once it sets, it's basically solid aluminum.

@Ratkill9000

Ай бұрын

LS will wreck that transaxle.

@johncowie3092

Ай бұрын

Ls would defeat the point no

I appreciate the care and attentiveness you give the car. Cool stuff.

Looking great so far. Are you planning on coating the underside with a bed liner or at least some rust proof paint? Keep up the great content, looking forward to seeing the car fully restored.

I'm loving these DeLorean restoration videos. Great Job Alex! 👍

I noticed the previous comment about using a sealer in the valley that's used in aviation; however, my thought is to research high temperature epoxies that you could poor into the valley and let harden. This would not only protect it, but disallow any debris from collecting in the valley in the future. Good luck.

Have you considered flooding the valley with high temp epoxy? The liquid epoxy would fill in all of the voids and be held in by them. And it'll resist heat while sealing it off from further damage, and prevent further deterioration? Not JB Weld, actual high temp epoxy. As long as the surface is prepped properly it would be an effective preventative. Just a thought to help that original engine last long into THE FUTURE!!!!

@revolutionday1

2 ай бұрын

I once repaired the entire inside of a pot metal thermostat housing with JB Weld, and as far as I know, it's still going!

@ryanehlis426

2 ай бұрын

JB weld is stable up to 500 degrees F, The engine valley should never get close to that hot.

@SabotageGarageUSA

2 ай бұрын

I have ported aluminum intakes and added aluminum to the outside to keep thickness. Tig welding works better but I only have used mig

@DRV-mt5dd

2 ай бұрын

Just depends on the normal operating temp of that surface. And as another person commented would be good to surgically clean and then alodine that aluminum.

@JamesHalfHorse

2 ай бұрын

I was thinking that. Something strong but still have some flex to it so it won't crack or seperate with the constant heat cycles. Just flood it on and let it fill in everything. If it was further gone or already starting to leak if it was mine I would try it. Not much to lose. Even in the shape it's in I would consider something like it that protects what he has left from getting worse as it seems under the best conditions it's a place where dirt and chemicals like to build up and not easy to clean. Having basically a clay shield over it the last 30 something years might have caused the damage you see but prevented far worse from getting to it.

Dude you are a legend. Love this channel love your work. You can even feel the emotion through the screen. Incredible, watch every Saturday for the past year pissed I didn’t find ya sooner!

When you do end up restoring the A/C system, I'd personally suggest using the original components (with new o-rings and expansion valve of course) and charging it with RS-24 (R-426a). It is a drop-in replacement for R-12 that is compatible with the original mineral oil used in those systems. If you convert it to R-134a, you will be disappointed with the performance of the system since the condenser coil is not designed for it. In addition, you will have to remove any trace of mineral oil from the system and convert it to PAG or Ester oil, which is a big pain. I have used RS-24 in two of my cars originally designed for R-12 for 6 years now, in my experience it works just as well as the R-12 originally did, and didn't require an expensive new condenser designed for R-134a.

Hey, Alex, have you thought of treating the valley with a corrosion inhibitor spray (see your buddy Jason at Rebuild Rescue - they use it all the time) and then hit it with a sealer/undercoating (heat resistant). It may not solve the issue but may extend the life of the motor and give you the time to find a good replacement, for the (Back to the) Future. Just a thought ...

You should have covered the Valley of death (upper engine block) with solder (it covers evrything and prevent's future rust) after that is colled down , painted with zinc can-spray , and a protective ruber(like the soundproof you used inside or fiberglass) - Then remount evrything. They use solder/welding to fix broken iron on old engine-blocks on vintage cars here in Europe.(they even use solder on futureproof-ing the body floor of the chassis on vintage cars.)

I'm surprised this wasn't an engine pull. That was a lot of dirt! And there's lots of crusty's in there too. I'm looking forward to seeing you restore this beauty!

I agree with Mike. That level of corrosion is quite normal. I’ve seen plenty worse. My DeLorean engine was similar to that and by now most are likely like that. Doing a great job!

May be worthwhile having a look into dry ice media blasting to clean it up properly, as for the block. I'd honestly have a go at either tig welding more material on top or brazing will be a good alternative to scrapping the block.

Crazy idea that I've seen that works. I've used Hy-Poxy's H-450 Alumbond (epoxy designed for aluminum and aluminum alloys) for engine repairs as it was a last ditch effort to repair it. Previously tried using a welder in my area that was a family friend and worked on restoring classic Ferrari's. With that kind of experience, I thought he'd be good...but he couldn't get it to work. I cleaned it up REALLY well. I heated it with MAP gas and the non-flammable brake cleaner using sand paper and wire brush (the important part is to use non-flammable brake cleaner if you're using flames...don't ask). After I felt it was perfectly clean and the aluminum pores were free from oil and dirt, I hit it once more with sand paper and quick squirt of brake cleaner before coating with the Alumbond to remove any recent oxidation. I've got to say that it work much better than I had expected. I was able to ride that motorcycle in all conditions and it work great! Previously, it leaked oil continuously, making it unsafe to ride. I wonder if coating the valley of death with H-450 would work to add an additional layer of protection? It worked well on my water cooled engine (motorcycle). It sealed up a nasty oil leak that had occurred from a broken chain (previous owner). Additionally, it dries in a nice aluminum color. At first, it's runny, but as it is continued to be stirred and getting into it's workable time limit (about 45 minutes), it starts to thicken up a bit. As with any product, preparation is key. Finally, mileage may vary.

You should clean the aluminum in the valley really well and fill it with a good quality epoxy. Consider chemical cleaning and epoxy primer first, and something like 3M DP-420. It will outlast the engine. I've used it to repair engine blocks in the past and worked great.

Another solution is a product called "Glyptal". It is an insulating coating that I’ve used in the valley and heads of my Windsor Ford motor. Used it more for oil return flow, but it is a nice thick coating that will survive inside your valley and also stop corrosion if water gets in there. Sold by different places.

Wow that engine almost looks exactly the same as the Peugeot 604 V6 my Dad had in the late 80's. Yes,it was very difficult to get it serviced once all the Peugeot dealers closed down in Puerto-Rico. We ended up going to the Volvo dealer for spare parts and they where the only mechanics that knew how to work on them. Impressive that your DeLorean seems to run ok! Keeping your DeLorean original is super.

@Knaeckebrotsaege

2 ай бұрын

the PRV V6 was used all the way till 1998 in some form or another, with the last few vehicles being the Renault Espace people carrier, Laguna family car and Safrane executive car, all with a 3 liter variant of it

Every episode ends, almost as a cliffhanger! I so am looking forward to the next one! Great series, Alex!

@gavinmeyer8937

2 ай бұрын

Hijacking this comment to say you should swap in a supercharged 3800. bulletproof v6 thats not nearly as gutless

you might be able to repair the valley by sandblasting then adding some material on top like resin, weld, epoxy, etc. or spraying on a protective coat of paint. filling in those areas could also stop liquid from building up which would slow down the rate of corrosion.

Hi Alex Enjoying this series. I can see what you mean about the valley. There has been some corrosion going on there. But it’s not currently leaking which is really good. If I was you I would look to prevent any further corrosion. I would clean it up 100 % and paint it with clear coat prevent it getting worse. Then inspect on a regular basis to ensure it’s still good. If you can find an engine in better condition for a good price might be worth having a spare. However I think that having a working original numbers matching engine would be more important to a purchaser than a perfect valley.

One step at a time. Not having worked on a DeLorean or the PRV V6, you seem to be doing one helluva job on it. Restorations are always full of surprises, with the necessity to have deep pockets. I think your idea of getting a "new" motor makes sense. Good Luck, and I'm enjoying this series (as I do with each one).

The vacuum lines going to the coolant manifold is part of a switch that opens/closes a vacuum line based on the engine temperature. They were commonly used for emissions stuff on the early Motronic cars.

@ifluro

Ай бұрын

This one may have limited vacuum advance on the distributor until the car warmed up, hence the D marking.

Personally, on the valley issue, I would have definitely tried to clean it better to get the dirt off, not necessarily blend out any damage, just get as much of the dirt off as possible, then applied alodine and a primer, then corban 35.

@bartolomeothesatyr

2 ай бұрын

^^^ This.

@timmoles9259

2 ай бұрын

After a much better mechanical cleaning follow-up with Alumprep before alodine.

@mikeygandalf3335

2 ай бұрын

I think this and it may sound kinda junky but put some jb weld on it, at least that will keep any more dirt off the oil passage

@EdwardM104

2 ай бұрын

I'd be careful with any coatings on the block. I spent probably 15 hours cleaning the block on a DeLorean and sealed it according to a forum post and the first time I had to remove the intake again, there was unavoidable fuel spills into the valley and all of the coating came right off. I did have a much much worse block than this one and anticipate having to replace it at some point so I used an aluminum epoxy on the worst looking bits and that is probably better than any coating. About hard as the other aluminum and really well bonded. Pointless? Maybe, but it was my friend's car and he wanted to experiment instead of proactively replacing the block.

Excellent investigative work. Can you blast that valley area and seal it with Glyptol or another similar compound? Maybe an epoxy primer would seal that aluminum also.

Oh, man, I enjoy your videos. I am really worried about your intakes getting all the junk in them though. You should have covered them immediately and kept them covered while wire-brushing there. Keep up the good work otherwise.

Good luck Alex it's a great series Now then on your throttle discs you have a spring valve which you didn't know what they are for ,these my friend Are poppet valves and work against air flow to relieve the symptoms of popping back on overrun,when the throttle is closed ,as they get older they wear and can fail leading to air leaking past on idle causing rough running,they can fail completely and break off ,and the next thing you know the remains are doing a little dance with the valves and pistons ,not wishing to scare the sh1t out of you but the best way of dealing with this is to change the throttle discs for ones that don't have the valves,or failing that you could solder them shut tight ,hope some if not all of this is helpful to you cheers from Bristol.

It is a lot easier to remove the intake manifold with the fuel system still attached and yes cap, rotor and wires are almost a requirement when you remove the intake manifold. Also that coolant hose is a real pain especially when replacing the water pump.

The aluminum valley problem is caused by corrosion from the outside on the top surface. I think some sort of coating, maybe an epoxy sealer for aluminum, would give some added protection from outside elements. Maybe JB Weld has something that might work. I would definitely clean it up more and use some kind of coating.

@christopherbusch1933

Ай бұрын

I've used JBWeld on motorcycle engines and it still holds 25 years later.

Really shocked that you didn’t cover the intake ports before more tear down 😉

Hey Alex, suggestion for next time you have to vacuume a tight spot, take that wide end off your vacuume, and take the end of your vacuume and stick in the wide end of a long funnel works awesome for tight spaces great for detailing without taking seats out and spots like that valley of death I have funnel with a flexible end and that's even better!! For next time.

You should definitely check out dry ice blasting. It makes literally everything look brand new.

I'm so pleased there are people on this planet who like doing this stuff. It looks like he'll on earth to me. By 5 minutes in I would have stripped something and lost something else. I would then not have the correct tool for something and then forget what went where. God bless you.

Such a great video. At what point do you just pull the body off the frame and save yourself some frustration? It's not too hard to do. Keep the videos coming! I love this series.

Seeing him flick all the dirt around in the valley around the open intake ports was giving me anxiety. lol As a former Delorean owner myself, Godspeed good sir.

Clean it and paint it with an ablative zinc paint. If it breaks get it glass beaded and welded. You could probably have it reamed and sleeved (coat a tight fighting tube with epoxy and press it into the passage) and drill out the connecting oil passages

@matthewcalifana488

2 ай бұрын

I was thinking J B weld , Worked 4 me on transmission line .

@dariocastro9079

2 ай бұрын

something like is what i was imagine before seeing it ... i think it can work if the damage is not terrible

@billpar

2 ай бұрын

I was thinking something similar

@1slow370

2 ай бұрын

@@matthewcalifana488 I would typically go for araldite 2014 but same concept

@skylinefever

2 ай бұрын

@@matthewcalifana488 I heard Belzona is a good replacement for JB Weld.

You were REALLY lucky that once you removed the fuel distributor the plunger got stuck inside and didn't fall out. If that plunger falls onto some hard surface and it just got the tiniest scratch you can just throw away the whole fuel distributor and get a new one ;)

Alex and Sarah-n-Tuned are kindred spirits when it comes to underbody cleaning and other obsessive things. It would be interesting to see a collaboration.

I'm 77. I've said every word you said many times over. But you still kept it civil. Great channel and keep up the good work. When I started wrenching, all you had to be able to do was set points and valves, and you were golden.

you should take a wire brush to the engine valley, degrease it, fill bad spots in with JB weld or aluminum low-temp torch welding rods, and give it a good coat of galvanizing spray paint. if you do this I doubt you will ever have to worry about the valley of death.

Would be cool to see how an ecoboost fits in that engine bay. At least it would actually have power and torque if it worked. I know some have installed LS engines but it requires a lot of modifications to the rear end and doesn’t look good if you’re trying to keep that factory look.

Here are all the other DeLorean videos in one place! Abandoned Delorean Rescue!: kzread.info/head/PLCPhBTbpYs4IyNoPoSMYDRQZFmq5T6Jb2

@taurota1554

2 ай бұрын

Awesome

@m4rvinmartian

2 ай бұрын

When trying to show height in video or photo, use a light source not concurrent with the lens, ie, at an angle to the camera. If using video, move the light to accentuate the valleys.

Going to try and convince my wife and kids to watch this series while we build the lego Delorean! And as a former mechanic, who is nearing 50 (and has seen a ton of car stuff...and tends to ff often) I watch the majority of what you do. Not only is it interesting mechanically but your personality and natural commentary easily maintains interest! You're beyond roads!

@tylerandersenandthegang

2 ай бұрын

I'm not saying she isn't. But I don't know if I would refer to her as your "wide" lol

@racerx8410712

2 ай бұрын

@@tylerandersenandthegang gotta love auto(in)correct!

Very interesting video, but I was scared some rust and crap might get into the intake ports. Best to cover those up when cleaning next to them.

Kind of curious, would a high temp silicone sealant to protect the aluminum block work in that area? Not a car guy so don't know but I have worked with industrial tools that get high temps and know that there are some high temp silicone sealants that are used to protect the tools from corrosion. Wondering if the same thing can be used on car engines. Something to prevent the valley of death scenario.

POR15 paint would definitely help prevent further corrosion of the block. I bet you could gently clean the block with a wire brush and then apply POR15.

I would get a die grinder with a wire brush attachment and polish the valley of death. Once all the corrosion is removed, I would use chromate conversion (Alocrom) and then etch prime and 2 part epoxy paint. You can then forget about the valley of death ever being a problem again.

You should walnut blast the valley to clean up as much of the corrosion as possible, then put some anti-corrosion coating (Alodine?) and then fill the valley up to the webbing with JB Weld epoxy.

@73Bugman

2 ай бұрын

I totally agree with your thoughts. Seems to be a no brainier. Why did the experts not suggest this?

@shanewilson5248

2 ай бұрын

i concur, but suggest you look at products from Chesterton they offer epoxy metal putty which has alluminum particles that aid expansion contraction eqaulity ,which is what you required- eqaul exspanion is critical to maintain seal

@jwalster9412

2 ай бұрын

Hire a. Welder and reinforced the valley.

@adrianmejia1256

2 ай бұрын

You could very well burn a hole through that corrosion, also having no idea how thick it is. Probably not a good idea at this point…

@YungEagle3k

2 ай бұрын

i thought the same thing

Is there any option to clean that area up really really well, and potentially fill the area with an epoxy, or metal bond type material? As you said, you might just get a spare engine - so whats the harm in just prolonging the inevitable with something like that?

Alex an outstanding job on bringing the DeLorean back to life! If you wanted to take this car to the next level an LS swap would do that. It also wouldn't hurt on the subscribership angle because I think a lot of people would be interested in it. An LS swap would give you some outstanding continuing content!

Honestly if I was trying to preserve the original engine I feel like I'd get the metal all cleaned up, rust killer spray and then probably try to coat the whole area in epoxy thoroughly to reinforce any potentially weak metal. At the very least it would limit how much a thin part could fatigue and if something did break it would more likely present as a slow leak rather then total oil pressure loss. At least that's my theory.

you dodged a bullet, Alex. can't wait to see the new episode. so good.

For the a/c system . It uses r12, if you convert to 134a, your gonna have to install an extra fan to keep it cooler with a temp activated switch. Because ure going from basicly mineral oil to gas. It has a diffrent way to exchange heat. For the engin top end, i would just leave it, engines that old look that way. But is always a good practice to have a extra engine aroung if there is a mishap in the future. Just rebuild the new new doner engine and wrap it with plastic and set it aside.

The engine valley is fine brother, i think the biggest thing is keeping all that junk out of that valley. Like any other kind of metal, wet dirt is really great at deteriorating it. I'd probably spray it with some fluid film at the very least to try and protect the aluminum for as long as possible. Anyway shes gonna be one nice set of wheels to enjoy yourself in.

@williamrogge6268

2 ай бұрын

Coolant on your hair? Does the DeLorean know you might become a hot-head?

I agree to clean the valley real well, maybe put jb weld in the divots and seal it real well.

I remember one of the selling points of the DeLorean being that it will never rust. They never mentioned that the drivetrain would eventually eat itself. I also remember rumors of some people getting rebates in the way of a bag of cocaine in the glove box.

This is how you end up taking a car completely apart because someone told you there's a problem it could possibly have.

The pitting on the Valley of Despair appears normal for any vehicle out of France, late '70's/early '80's. My Renault[s] 16, 20, Fuego and 25 all had scalloped alloy panels, gallery passages and undertrays. Nothing broke - admittedly, none had a V-configured engine !

sounds like a good candidate for an LS conversion! It will definitely hit 88MPH then!!

So agree with your plan to go ahead and pressure wash the entire underside. It's the closest you can get to a full restoration without dismantling the entire car! Absolutely loving watching your progress!

The engine was upgraded and used by Renault and Peugeot until 1996, and sold to Fiat for use in Lancias, so at least finding more reliable parts shouldn't be too bad. Working out which bits can be used to improve on what you have is the trickiest part, but maybe someone has already done that.

Wow. I've heard that the PRV engine is bad, but actually seeing some of the decisions made on this design is just mind-boggling.

Clean that valley even better, then acid etch it so its super clean bare metal, and then skim coat it in JB weld, paying special attention to getting all the very pitted areas well filled in. Once dried you could sand and paint which would the seal the entire valley against further exposure to standing moisture.

Loving the methodical approach to everything you do

If there is still substance left you could weld the deep areas you have a master welder available, ask him. If there comes too Much tension caused by the heat you could anneal it again. You do need to disassemble it completely though, but that’s what we all like looking at! And while you’re in there do some tuning. This was definitely the softest engine in the 80’s good for heavy volvo’s but absolutely not an engine for a sportscar. There was a 3.0prv turbo in a renault A610. Turbo. But still only 250Hp. I bet you can do better

I think that block can live for a long time. I would attack the corrosion on top and seal it with some anodizing coat or epoxy. Once sealed by epoxy it should not further detoriate; so not leaks today will mean no leaks for a long time. As usual you guys are doing a great job, thanks for the video!

Castings are always rough, unless they're a machined surface (which that wont be). Personally Id clean that up with a wire wheel, maybe TIG some real dodgy areas, then coat it with something protective and move on with your life.

Well, I definitely had a DeLorean kind of day. Started the day early and the 89 Camry worked well. Took me everywhere I wanted to go. Met with a friend I've known since about the time your DeLorean was new. Their parts are all there but not working well, and many pieces need to be repaired or replaced.

Use Sprayway glass cleaner on the Valley. It will liquify the remaining crusty dried coolant and you can then rinse it out or vacuum it. It will prevent further corrosion.

Just use the DeLorean to go back to 1989. Fix the valley issue. Go back to the future. And you're done 😊 Great series Alex, good luck!

The valley of death. I wouldn't be leaving it as is, clean it up perfectly and give it a coat or two of thick two pack something to stop any further exterior corrosion and to add a bit of strength. PS I see that others are suggesting something similar, the forum has spoken.

Clean the valley, use JB weld or similar epoxy to fill concerning areas. Lastly, apply a good engine paint to the valley to inhibit future corrosion.

Could you use some kind of epoxy as a conformal coating to try to protect those areas in the valley from further corrosion?

This is definitely Motortrend quality material. Better actually. I hope Alex stays on youtube. I will watch and support all of your videos. love the channel.

personally I don't care about keeping the engine original and I think it would be slick to drop a modern crate engine and a straight exhaust. It would probably make it more fun and make your more likely to drive it on the regular. While your in there you might as well add an airbag suspension that would let you drop it super low

Isn't there a way to epoxy seal once you have everything perfectly clean? I'm not a metallurgist or anything, but as a retired Master Mechanic I think I would try to seal it from the outside with whatever products are available to the modern guy.

I used to work at a shop where we took in deloreans and got them running up in mass , I didn’t enjoy it then and watching you do it I don’t think I would enjoy it now either. I am having fun watching you go through everything I did with these things though.

Looks like a prime candidate for treating with Devcon, give them a call I’ll guarantee they have a coating that will seal all that up and will also put some structural strength back into it.

My guess is that you probably have every Delorean owner in the world watching this so a rebuild on the motor would be a win for them 😊

I feel like you could clean that up real good and reinforce that with epoxy of some kind. Just fill all of those low spots with JB weld or Splash Zone (marine tex) It would be better than nothing...

Isn't there some sort of coating you can use on the valley to protect it from possibly further corroding in the future?

You did a perfect job on the exterior and the interior. So why didnt you just took the engine out completly and dry-iced it (including the valley). Building it up from there and fixing everything that would have made it an almost complete restoration. Now it feels a little half finished. Still like the videos on the project

I've seen and have pictures of valleys in way worse conditions. Replace vacuum hoses while you're in there, secure coolant hoses and pressure test them before intake goes back on and move on :)

@ordvno

2 ай бұрын

Also should test thermal vacuum control valve while you're there

For the AC you don't need to change to 134, just get the duracool or 12a refrigerant with an adapter for the fill connection. Don't have to change anything in the system. Works better than 134. My 71 buick riviera still had pressure in the original system so I was able to recharge and it works great.

Damn... this looks like it might as well have been a full engine removal, teardown, and rebuild on a stand.

I see from reading some of the comments that sine other people already have mentioned the same thing that I would suggest, which to coat or fill in the low places on the engine valley with some sort of epoxy, after steam cleaning and/or etching the surface.

Love following along with this project! 🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁