I stay calm on dangerous route by not going anywhere near them, and switching off the telly if I see anyone else too close

@Orynae

9 ай бұрын

Why are climbing videos filled with so many comments of people who hate the entire concept of climbing? It's a hobby, you don't have to like it, but maybe don't watch videos about it then

@spokanespray

8 ай бұрын

@@Orynae my friend, I believe this was only meant to be humorous

I've started using the 'gonna go for a climb' mentality to send hard boulders as well

@giuseppejones1554

8 ай бұрын

you look like you boulder lol

I was waiting for a whip at the end 😅

I've told a number of people the speaking calm trick.though I usually say pretend to be calm and you might just believe yourself. Like you said it makes it easier to think rationally in a high stress situation.

Thank you for using safety gear. Please be careful.

@benmark2353

8 ай бұрын

When he climbs these high E grades, he'll have the whole climb dialed in with a good margin of error before he goes for a lead attempt relying on what I imagine is pretty sketchy gear you'd rather not fall on. Don't worry, he's literally a pro

Nicely narrated. Having only climbed up to E1, E8 is pretty hard to imagine!

@climbermacleod - Such a great insight into both technical and mental techniques/strategies used to increase (perceived?) safety and maintain composure. Always appreciate the depth and insightfulness in your videos.

I admire the heck out of what you do, but I'm very happy in the gym. You go with your big bad self.

It improves the probability of at least one of them staying solid if you fall, but it also distributes the load so that the force is reasonable for one sketchy mount to handle

A man's got to know his limitations.

Another part of staying calm is controlling your breathing. And this can be used both ways. So sometimes to calm myself down il exaggerate my breathing. Long slow breaths with a pause in between to slow my heart rate. However I have used the opposite trick on boulders that are at my physical limit. I will do short deep breaths just before I start a climb to raise my heart rate and build some extra psyche.

Have you ever considered doing a drop test on these gear placements? I’d be very curious to see what happens if you dropped a 70kg bag of rocks to simulate a lead fall, would the gear hold or all pop out? Could be a good way of safely assessing the risks.

Waiting for Alex Honnold in the comments 😂

What's your motivation to climb dangerous routes vs hard safe routes? The rush? Sense of overcoming death? Added tactical element? Ego?

@jarnold1789

8 ай бұрын

Testing skills, confidence in your ability, a little bit of thrill seeking, a dash of ego. Just my guess. I’m just a gym climber who occasionally sport climbs, but I can relate to this kind of risk taking more as a backcountry skier. Successfully climbing and skiing a route with hazards like exposure, rockfall, and crevasses creates a greater sense of accomplishment than just racking up vert on less consequential terrain, even though that may still be “hard”. Successfully identifying and mitigating hazards to complete something feels fulfilling

@cheesecake6696

7 ай бұрын

​@@jarnold1789aka type 2 fun. 😅

what is a 'rock and roller'?

@TheMacroGravity

9 ай бұрын

Old school gear. It’s like a ballnut, but rollers instead of the brass ball.

@robertnewell4054

9 ай бұрын

@@TheMacroGravity…. You officially aged me…. “Old School Gear …” 🤦🏻‍♂️

#Totems

does everyone use helmets now?

@Kushibunny

9 ай бұрын

If a rock falls on your head while climbing and knocks you off, you could die. Hence helmets. They're not particularly used in sport climbing as it's different. This is trad climbing.

@simonsimon9880

9 ай бұрын

It really is about evaluating a scenario, and making a case by case decision. At my local climbing area, there are some places I wouldn't even go walking without a helmet on, due to the high foot traffic at the top of the cliff, and the risk of rock fall. At others, I might wear a helmet, but if I forgot it, I wouldn't stress about it. And then other routes (especially off-width cracks) are going to be significantly harder with a helmet on, as it makes your head too big to fit through tight spots.

@dylandtime

8 ай бұрын

😂 lolololol

@DekarNL

8 ай бұрын

Shouldn't someone at a crag wear a helmet? Rock fall is pretty common.

@simonsimon9880

8 ай бұрын

@LRoyz as I said above, it's very situation-dependant. There are some climbing areas where rock fall isn't very common at all.

I dont understand why trad climbers insist on sketch ass protection placements instead of nice 45kn rated bolts. Climbing ethics is whack. Id even argue its not ethical.

@areteclimbing

9 ай бұрын

That sounds uncomfortably close to 'if your ethics are different to my ethics then you're unethical'. Which is basically saying if we disagree then you're wrong. Overcoming fear is an integral part of climbing, always has been. Things have become so sanitised in modern times that this aspect can now be limited to the introduction to the sport, reducing all risks to a minimum and then telling yourself its safe. Some people want to develop the mental fortitude that trad climbing requires. It's just another rock climbing skill.

@awdaviesvio

9 ай бұрын

It's just a different skill set. People like to challenge themselves in different ways.

@areteclimbing

9 ай бұрын

​@@chyza2012😅 I think people who don't do much trad overestimate the dangers. There's plenty of videos around of falls on hard trad routes. It normally results in some scrapes and bangs, the occasional trip to a hospital, not exactly a 70% chance of death 😊 It comes down to what each person finds acceptable, and what they hope to get out of it.

@nathanielrobertson8827

9 ай бұрын

In Scotland its considered very disrespectful and incredibly heinous to drill in to our rock. Trad gear preserves the rock and doesn't damage the landscape and nature. Sorry but if you want to climb hard and do hard routes ypu have to find creative protection and minimise risk. Even with a 45kn bolt there's still risk. The person who bolted could've bolted it badly or the metal has corroded. I'm sure Dave Macleod with the experience and knowledge he has, can climb much safer with a sketchy sly hook than some gumby with a drill

@Mdjagg

9 ай бұрын

You can always top rope. Don't push your nonsense on other people, you obviously know nothing about local ethics. Stay in the gym if you want to stay "safe".

Dave, you're the Jordan Peterson climbing. The articulate and eloquent wording in all situations. Edit: NOC corp. Guardian readers in the comments showing extreme cope with the same repeated slogans.

@aaronspiers592

9 ай бұрын

not the compliment you think it is

@JoaoPauloSoares61

9 ай бұрын

Why are you offending the man?

@itsonlyemmaa

9 ай бұрын

I personally wouldn't refer to Dave as the stupid person's smart man.

@thenayancat8802

9 ай бұрын

@@tom.2900 Just about the level of wit I'd expect from a JBP fan

@samh9642

9 ай бұрын

What exactly is Jordan Peterson the Jordan Peterson of? Crying about the fall of western civilization?

So you load a climb with bad gear to to try to feel safe? Dave I think you should take this down as it just makes you sound like a fool and may lead other - less talented people - to take too much risk

@simonsimon9880

9 ай бұрын

No dude, that's a standard approach on many climbs. Saying that we shouldn't discuss advanced climbs and advanced techniques on social media is like saying that all Formula 1 content should be banned. That shit is for trained, professional drivers only, and if a noob watched a video and tried to copy stuff, they would 100% kill themselves. This is no different. People need to recognize that not every route is for beginners.

@oystercatcher943

9 ай бұрын

It’s a balance. You will climb very badly and fall if you don’t stay calm. So managing your mental state is very important. He’s not denying it’s dangerous. The term ‘bad’ is relative too. Very hard to know how bad without testing it

@dylandtime

8 ай бұрын

😂

@cheesecake6696

7 ай бұрын

I'm fairly sure he was saying that he places extra gear to manage risk and reduce the risk of hitting the deck. Which is great advice. How many new climbers would not realise that you should place extra gear in risky situations? Or that there are many different types of protection for different situations? Information is power and Dave empowers us more with every video.