If I can just give you one hint about easing in the fullness of the sleeve cap: make a line of machine stitching across the sleeve cap starting at one notch, across the apex then down to the other notch, just inside the seam allowance but close to the seam line. Then, pull up the bobbin thread slightly. There is not much ease at the very top of the sleeve because it’s pretty much on the grain of the fabric, but as you come down the “bell curve”, the fabric gets a more pliable, bias texture. Pull the bobbin thread up as much as you think you need. If somehow you make it too small, no harm, the fabric is still there. Then, using a warm iron and damp press cloth, shrink in the excess fullness. Put the sleeve back into the arms-eye, line up the notches, etc. and I’ll bet you’ll have a sleeve that will stitch in without puckers or gathers. I’ve been sewing seriously for over 40 years and I’ve never had this method fail. Like your attention to detail. Keep sewing!

It turned out so cute! I love that you added up the whole cost and included it, so many people don't understand why hand made couture items cost so much and it's so frustrating lol

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

Yes! It feels a little odd talking about money on the internet but I really wanted to share that! Glad you appreciate it❤️

If nothing else you ended up having fantastic mobility with those sleeves! In modern coats you really can't lift your arm at all and I've always hated how modern pattern drafting doesn't allow for anything beyond casual promenading. I was trained in modern pattern drafting but getting into historical costuming really taught me how we've just forgotten some things we shouldn't have

{edit: pls don't tag Bernadette, I have been disenchanted with her behavior outside of what gets posted on the internet and no longer have the desire to be associated with her in any way. Thank you for understanding.} I just wanted to say a few things 1. I hope I didn’t offend anyone by talking about money, I only meant to bring attention to the artesian skill of tailoring. I know that even the materials cost for this was really high, but I wanted to make the investment for this project. 2. I am mad that the red fabric was that low quality given the price 3. Yes, walking in the railing was real, I actually did that and 4. Yes, it was scary Ora

@rhondacrosswhite8048

3 жыл бұрын

Please speak about how much you spent. So often the cost of all the various materials is what can keep us from a project.

@Pierre371

2 жыл бұрын

Can I ask, what exactly happened with BB that made you disenchanted by them? I don’t usually keep up with the costuming community outside of KZread, so I would really like to hear your story. Oh, and it’s completely fine if you don’t want to talk about it. Hope you have a good day.

@Nanananna892

2 жыл бұрын

Can you tell me what made you become disenchanted with Bernadette? As far as I'm aware of, she's never done anything problematic.

@Ora_Lin

2 жыл бұрын

I can't give you any details, it was all stuff behind the scenes with the Costube community and in private messages.

@Pierre371

2 жыл бұрын

@@Ora_Lin oh, I see. I understand.

Gorgeous coat, and fabulous footage of you wearing the coat - your balancing act certainly shows off the range of movement you still have. I trained as a milliner and so many people have asked me why don’t I make hats to sell. I always tell them the truth - nobody wants to pay me what I’m worth!

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much! And I’m sorry to hear that, but of course I understand. Most people don’t know what goes into making things🤷🏻‍♀️😭

@HJKelley47

2 жыл бұрын

Rachel Underwood: As a machine knitter of King and California King blanket & pillow sets. I agree! Only a rare few want to pay me what the work is worth. They think because the knitting is done on a flatbed knitting machine that it must be done in a very short time. I just completed a blanket 79"X83", which took me 12 hrs to knit the blanket (with many color changes); another 4 hrs to crochet the border; and another 2 1/2 hrs for the 14"x36" pillow covering, including the finishing work. Total time: 17 1/2 hrs of work. The offer--less than $100, which barely covers the cost of the yarn, plus set up to start the project. When you have many color changes, it requires a bit of finishing work for the yarn ends. The hours worked are very focused work hrs, which often cause me a bit of eye strain by the end of the day.

So glad my daughter shared this video with me. You’ve given me motivation to get up and actually cut and sew the Simplicity coat pattern that’s been sitting on my sewing table 😅

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

Yay!

Checklist - Fits well enough to flail arms on risky stunt; 😃 Incredible swagger. I’d call it a raging success.

one tip from angela clayton for gather was 1/4“ above and below seam allowances gathering threads and i used that on a suit for a friend and it worked out really well! also with wool really steaming the gathers will shrink it just a tad bit to really get that ease to disappear

I love it. I've always been a lover of some victorian fashions myself.

Making one of these is so high on my list. Yours came out so great! I appreciate you going into details about your sleeves (comparing old and new and how they fitted for different movements), thank you for that

What a fantastic tailored coat 😍 Your work and attention to detail are amazing. I’m seriously impressed!

Thank you so much for letting me a part of the whole journey and your process and your passion. The result is stunning and I adore your skills.

I used to make all my daughter’s dresses, shirts, etc growing up (in the 90s). Teachers and daycare center staff would always compliment the dresses. I was always asked where I purchased them from. I would tell them I made them. One teacher asked me one day if I would make her daughter a dress. I told her firstly I didn’t have the time, and secondly she wouldn’t be willing to pay me. She was shocked when I told her how much one of my daughter’s dress cost to make after adding the cost of “quality” fabrics, notions, and my time. She commented that it was cheaper to buy dresses at Wally’s, SHOPCO, and Target for half the price. People do not understand that you pay for quality and time.

This is exactly what I want to learn and make for the next winter, so thank you a lot!

Your coat is gorgeous and fits you so well! You did such a fantastic job!

I loved how your final coat turned out. I loved how the coat itself has that Victorian vibe to. My one suggestion for when easing in sleeves try to use two rows of basting stitches, and try to make sure that the stitches are lined up, that way you can have more control with the easing and steaming, steaming can hide a multitude of sins (to an extent) especially when it comes to wool. Anyways, have a great day or night, whenever you see this :) and happy sewing. Also love your cat btw.

This is incredible! I'm just now learning how to make more complex pieces, I super appreciate the tutorial!!! Absolutely a new subscriber ❤️

Beautiful to see you work through this process and thank you for drawing attention to the fact that fast fashion can never compare to good quality hand tailored clothing. I've never done pad stitching and I hope to learn techniques like that someday. I appreciate your explanation. Thank you for documenting this. It's great!

It’s beautiful! 😍 I love the tip to check for pilling in the swatches. Thanks! ❤️

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

You are so welcome!

Simply beautiful! I have to add; I am impressed that you remade parts you felt you could improve rather than letting them slide by... the mark of a pro!

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Thats one of my favorite things about tailoring☺️

The coat is magnificent, I'm sure it's worth every penny. I love the lady bugs on the red lining fabric.

Thank you for posting this video! 😀 I have seen several people making clothes based on the keystone jacket and they are truly beautiful and classic pieces. Soon it is my turn. Thank you for the good tips and what to do differently, we can all learn constantly. Greetings från UAE ☀️

I need this coat! I have my first patterns on the way, and im finally ready to learn to sew clothes. Coats are my fave clothing item, and ive wanted to make some for decades because It is so hard to find good, well designed coats if you dont have a ton of money to drop. Being tall makes a good coat even harder to find. This one is stunning ❤

Amazing work, the way it moves as you walk is stunning

In business you have to decide who your audience will be. For you it will not be "the masses", but those with very deep pockets. Go for it girl. At $5,000 per coat, if you make ten of them you will be able to sell them for $50,000, with a profit of $20,000+. Massachusetts has some $5,000 per Victorian wool winter coat clientele.

@Ora_Lin

2 жыл бұрын

That’s how this works🤷🏻‍♀️ bespoke is not accessible and there isn’t really a way to make it.

@HJKelley47

2 жыл бұрын

@@Ora_Lin : The bespoke tailor in London, who makes Regency clothing for men and women, has deeper pocket clientele--Pinsent Tailoring by Zack Pinsent: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qpxh15R_mJzLlLg.html

If I had this coat I'd wear it a lifetime. Incredible detail and diligence.

I just see your video the 5th time and it's still breathtaking. Love it ❤

This came out beautifully! And I learned something about coats!

The ladybugs on the lining fabric is a lovely touch.

It's beautiful, bravo darlin

Your channel is soothing, especially after a long day. I love your content and kitties 🤭 If I didn't already do embroidery, you'd inspire me to sew!

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

I'm so glad!

What a beautiful coat. You look like $1,000,000. in it. Maybe now I can gather the courage to attempt the cashmere coat I have been lusting for from your inspiration. The 1st cut is the hardest... .

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

Do ittt

oh that came out so beautiful!

You hage done a wonderful job, your coat looks amazing. Congratulations.

It came out so beautiful 😍

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

❤️

Omg I'm LOVING ❤ your lining fabric!!! So gorgeous little ladybirds and the colour... (we say ladybirds in the uk) xx

Hell YES! AMAZING AMAZING COAT! {you may have to charge more for sheer fabulousness} WOW! Nicely done.

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

hehe. Thank you❤️

As I watched this, I was sewing the buttonholes on my own Victorian style duster coat! The cold spell we're having here in Massachusetts really motivated me to finish it ;)

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

Love that!

Very nicely filmed And the music Vibez

Quite a lovely coat and the contrast of black and red is classic and tasteful. For the sleeves, to help reduce the gathering you can iron the fabric at the crown to help “mold” it into shape. It reduces bulk because the fabric will have been heat treated, it is a similar concept to Bella Maes “how to hem a circle skirt”. I am stunned with the beauty of this simple and yet elegant piece. Congratulations!! (Sometimes sewing feels like a mental marathon)

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! And that's a great tip!

Sleeves always intimidate me, yours come out pretty good.

Hell yeah, I'm so happy about how transparent you've made this and explained how long it takes and your process behind deciding on price. I love hand sewing and make most of my (modern) clothes by hand but it absolutely does take hours and hours of work. I've never made a coat before, what incredibly gorgeous work you've done! 💜

Lovely!!

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you! 😊

great work boo

This is amazing

OK. So the flash of the red lining as you strut walk after balancing on a railing in the middle of winter is *officially* bad ass. Well done. That coat is spectacular. Hopefully you connect with Miz B after she's done her moving continents thing. = Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown

@Ora_Lin

3 жыл бұрын

I'm flattered❤️

Super Nice!

pro tip from experience i had a coat of mine dry cleaned and that actually got rid of the pilling :D

I get what you are saying about the cost of clothes. I once knitted a sailors jumper for my toddler and if I paid myself £10 an hour it would have been a toddler in a £900 jumper!!! She's now 17 and the jumper is a lovely cushion 😂😂😂

Oh Ora you are so talented! Will this be your next pattern? 😁😍❤️

I love it! I want one. Actually, I have all the materials, the pattern, etc., except buttons. It's on my very long list of items to make.

@Ora_Lin

2 жыл бұрын

It’s a wonderful project

Interesting. The living wage part was well voiced.

@Ora_Lin

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

cost is in how much peaople are willing to pay for it, not how much resources went into it. This is why prefociency matters so much.

Oh Im in Mass too! Hiii!

LOL would you like to wear a coat in January? NO! I don't have a deathwish! XD January and February is the hottest time of the year! we get over 40C Tempertures! LOL July maybe, when it's cold and wet maybe XD

You did an incredible job

@Ora_Lin

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@lon7367

Жыл бұрын

@@Ora_Lin Look you're welcome girl! I have been searching for a video like this and you the only one who has it. You have the personality too. I'm just getting in to sewing. Keep it up...I want to see more!

Your great xo

May i ask, what was the pattern you used from the keystone guide. Was it the ulster coat, jacket with full skirt or the frock coat. I've wanted to make a coat for a while and i wasn't sure which one would give the shape i wanted, which coincidentally is the same shape as your one.

👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿

beautiful! I have like two fabrics for coat but haven't tried yet... how did the 201 went through thick wool? did you had problems with the thread? Still haven't tried mine with thick material... Have a lovely day! and a big hi from Italy!!!

@Ora_Lin

2 жыл бұрын

Mine does okay with 2 layers but starts skipping a few stitches around 3/4 layers… however I think this is unusual and 201s usually do quite well with thick layers. Good luck!

Hey, I would recognize a Singer 201-2 anywhere. :D

Please how can I get this pattern

@marelicainavokado

2 жыл бұрын

It's from "Keystone jacket and dress cutter". The pdf version is free online.

What the actual frick are those maths?! 30$ an hour is the minimum? Then why the hecc am I working for less than 6$ per hour

@Ora_Lin

2 жыл бұрын

Late stage capitalism is crazy. Might be slightly different than where you live but in Massachusetts where I live you can barely afford a sharing a room with someone on $15 h full time, so yeah to support a small family or even just one other person $30h at least is necessary

If you offer this coat (pattern) at six (6) different lengths (Peplum jacket, hip length, above the knee, below the knee, midi, and maxi lengths) I want to buy the pattern. Please consider selling the pattern with these choices! I love it!

I thought she buy a $5000 coat, misleading style. I wouldn’t buy this coat even $100 is too much for unbrand

@Ora_Lin

9 ай бұрын

branding over craftsmanship is a wild take. Not saying my craftsmanship on this coat is worth that much but damn those are some interesting values you got